[rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

[Brent Blue MD]

Mike:

I am traveling but just off the top of my head, here are some of the
things that I have had to fix which cost significant dollars.

Fixing the V brace by getting a collar welded around it.
Putting the rudder pulleys on the in side--far safer in the configuration.
Stiffening the firewall and top of fuselage to prevent flexing of the M14P.
Adding numerous pulleys/bell cranks for cables which Murphy says are
not needed but would not pass any safety inspector I know.
Stiffening the tail which was a huge project including parts.
Getting Dale's tail stinger which is far better than the more
expensive Murphy (if available) and installing the beef up.
Getting a real tail wheel. That was about $1,300 alone.
Adding real brakes on the right side as opposed to the cockeyed
system Murphy tried.
Throwing away the plastic tubing Murphy supplied for brake line and
replace with real brake lines.
Obtaining a host of parts that are needed that Murphy does not supply
in the proper quantity.
Replacing rear windows with stiff windows to prevent oil canning problem.
Fixing the engine mount.
Fixing the flap flex problem which can be a critical problem which we
still haven't come up with a fix yet!

That is a small list from memory. I am sure Brian and Doug could
provide an extensive list if asked.

Probably wouldn't be as expensive if Darryl admitted the problems
when notified (which he has been by several customers) and provided
fixes. Also, providing a real manual would help.

Brent

---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:58:08 -0700
From: brentblue@qwest.net
To: rebel-builders-d
Subject: Murphy Cost

Don't forget to add in about 25-50% of the kit cost to fix all the
safety and other problems with the Murphy kit and its manual. That's
what it is costing me to fix the problems with Moose--and I am doing it cheap.

BB


---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:08:57 -0900
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Murphy Cost

So you're spending $9000 to $18,000 to fix problems with the Moose? I must
really be missing something, for the life of me I can't think of what is
wrong with the Moose that could possibly cost that much... the tail wheel
issue right now is the only big ticket item I can think of, and it wont cost
anywhere near that much... Ted, do you have what you spent on this issue
figured into your operating costs... I bet you do.

Mike

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[Brent Blue]

Rob:

There are several things I believe you note ignores.

My serial number is 81. When you say "when I bought my kit", "when"
are you speaking of.

The manual and factory support is inexcusable. Compared to early
Vans, they both are embarrassing. I have a guy who built a Vans
helping me periodically and listening to him point out differences in
the manual and support is painful.

Darryl has had so many problems that no one at the company basically
knows anything about the aircraft. Even Robin has now left. So
calling is useless.

Most significant, Darryl and Murphy Aircraft have and continue to
advertise that the Rebel, SR, and Moose can be built by first time
builders. This is an absolute falsehood. About the only first time
builders who can finish a Murphy is someone who has a lot of
engineering and building abilities. I freely admit and admitted to
Darryl and others that I have never build an aircraft nor have any
engineering experience. Darryl had consistent told his sales staff
(when he had one) to sell the dream, not the product. Well, I bought
both and for Murphy or anyone else to use the excuse that most
aircraft kit manufacturers are inadequate is like saying that most
doctors don't take time to talk to their patients so don't expect or
demand more.

A part of the expense I have had to add to the Moose is getting
consultation from experienced folks to fix Moose problems. For
example, as a first time builder with no experience, how could I
possible know the angle limitations for cable runs unless Murphy
states them in the manual. Also, how could I possible know where and
how to put each pulley. Sure, I could do it but I would be totally
guessing on locations, etc. Why should I, the first time builder
Darryl advertises to, literally guess on the proper location. These
are control cables--the kind of things that can cause big problems if
done wrong--and they want the first time builder to guess on
locations. (Actually, Darryl says the locations in the manual are
adequate but they will not pass inspection from the FAA or CAA.)

As far as my letter, the few changes Darryl has made are ones that he
has been forced into and even then, he doesn't post them to the
Murphy site. The tail stinger is a classic. And his fix still isn't
as good as Dale's.

My single greatest amazement on the forum is why in the world would
anyone defend Darryl and Murphy Aircraft! .

Yes the aircraft idea is good but getting there is more like "here
are most of the parts and an old, inadequate manual--good
luck." That is not what an aircraft company, experimental or not,
should be doing.

Brent


At 05:00 PM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 05:36:50 -0800 (PST)
From: robluce1@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Truth about building and experimental: to Blueraven


The truth that people don't want to hear about
building a experimental aircraft.


I don't read the Rebel list as often as I used to, but
as someone who spent years looking at different kits
before buying a Rebel kit, there are a couple things
that I'd like to point out. These things aren't about
Murphy kits, they're about building airplanes in
general.

What most people forget is that you are -not- building
a plane. You are building an experimental. I don't
care which manufacturer, plans, kit, quick build, all
metal, tube and fabric, composite, or combination, or
all of the above. There isn't a single kit out there
that wont be a challenge, that wont require an
excessive (and I'm saying that word literally,
excessive, way more than what is reasonable) amount of
attention to DETAIL. None of the manufacturers that
I've seen cover all of the bases, that's why they're
EXPERIMENTALS, not airplanes. You're stringing your
own butt into something you built. You are the
manufacturer of the experimental.

Most of the big experimental companies have builders
who exchange ideas over the Internet. Zenith, Vans,
Kitfox, Velocity, Lanceair, Bearhawk (Beartracks) and
Murphy all have very active builders groups. They
-HAVE- to, because none of the experimental companies
make a perfect product. If you go to build ANY
plans/kit/quickbuild, and don't get hooked up with the
builders lists on the Internet, you're asking for
trouble with a capital C, Crash. Every builder will
have a point in the building process of every
experimental where they ask themselves "Is this plane
really safe?" It's nice to be able to talk to real,
live, other builders/pilots of your kit that will tell
you that you're not nuts, the experimental is safe,
and here are the things they did/recommend.

Every set of builders will tell you different things
about their experimental, and the company associated
with it.

If you really want to build a particular type of
aircraft, go help someone build it. It's not hard to
find someone that's building a experimental close to
where you are that's -similar- to what you'd like to
build. Dont stop at one, help several builders. If
the builders seem hesitent to have you help, bring
donuts, I have yet to see that one fail.

I helped someone build a Zenith for years before I
spent any money. I also went and spent hours in
peoples hangers and shops looking at what they were
building (Kitfox's, a Mustang II, a couple RV's, a
Lanceair, a couple Murphy's (Mark Kohut's -very- Super
Rebel 2500 for one (earlier thread)), a couple
different Zenith's), and gave them a hand if they'd
let me help.

Every experimental has warts. You'll find that the
builders know about the warts, point them out freely,
but they don't enjoy feeling as though their
experimental is the -ONLY- one with warts.

With Murphy, Zenith and Vans, I don't care where you
are on the NA contenent, you'll be able to find
someone fairly close by that is building one. Rather
than batting ideas back and forth over the Internet,
put that active curiousity of yours to work and go put
your HANDS on something that is close to your kit,
-while- it is being built.

Also, if I use your math, everything all together,
Rebel Kit, Rotax 912s, all the options (and we bought
nearly all of 'em), was around 28k. There aint -no-
way any experimental will cost the sum of the parts
plus engine. Even if you're a cheap buzzard, you'll
spend a significant percentage more on add-ons,
electronics, and "finish".

Now, specific to the Bearhawk.

If you're getting a kit from Bearhawk Aircraft/AviPro
Ltd, that's a Mexican airplane, not "US". Not that it
means anything, but everything is built, manufactured,
assembled in Mexico using a 100% Mexican labor force.
Ok, cheap shot. :-)

As far as the Bearhawk itself goes, looks like a nice
plane. I'm not a fabric guy myself (I know, the wings
are metal, which is the important part, but still),
but if it fit my budget and my flight profile, I would
have looked harder at it.

As it was, Murphy has been around longer (AviPro Ltd
is a -very- new bird comparitively, not an "American"
company, no real established track record), and in
this business, a company with a longer track record is
worth something. $28k US bought everything, including
engine, for a "real" plane with a 700 lbs useful
(debatably could be higher, and only limited by engine
hp) and an airframe that is rated for an additional
200 lb above that. It'll fly 10+ hours with the
regular tanks, and has a very good track record as far
as safety goes. It's all metal, so no problems
leaving it outside, no long term issues (composite
airframe lifetime or fabric to replace). The kit and
the manufacturer have been around long enough that the
problems have been identified, and the fixes put in
place (firewall etc) or suggestions for improvements
(Ontario mods) are firm. (No, the Moose has not been
around "a long time" like the Rebel.)

The one major gripe that you hear people talk about
the Murphy is the manual. If the Murphy manual is a
issue, then don't look at the Mustang II's. (OMG) :-)
I actually think the Murphy manual is pretty decent,
but they could take a page from Zenith and buy a
digital camera and learn what a PDF is. :-) Most of
the problems would be taken care of if someone got
camera happy at the factory and put pictures (lots and
lots of pictures, digital film is cheap (joke/not a
joke), take thousands) in the manual. The fact is
that the guys working at Murphy are manly men that
don't do documentation. That's for bookworms or
non-manly men that don't build airplanes *grunt
grunt*. (I'm being funny, but it's strangely true,
talk to Stephane, Robin or Darrel and tell me it aint
true.)

As far as Dr. Blue, most of the issues that he's
speaking of were discussed in this email list long
before he bought his kit (remember: excessive
attention to detail). Murphy supports their kit as
well, and in most cases, better than any other
manufacturer. Ask Zenith, Vans, AviPro, Kitfox,
Lanceair (well, Lanceair might do it, for what their
kits cost) if they will write a blank check to their
builders? No company writes a blank check, and before
you buy a kit, you should know just what the kit
manufacturer will do. You are building it, they are
only "suggesting" a design and maybe providing parts,
that's why it's called an experimental. Ultimately,
you buy and build a kit on faith.

Unlimited support/blank checks costs alot more than
$54k US. I simpathize with Dr. Blue, but he knew what
he was getting into before he started. (I might
someday regret saying this, but...) If he didn't, he
should sell the kit now and go buy an actual airplane
like a new Cessna 206.

Rob

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[Ed ONeal]

Hello list: Dose any one know ho wound up with Rebel Sn# 415
It had solid welded fuel tanks and doors that hinged at the top, folt plan stile.thanks Ed O"Neal
harddurt@yahoo.com



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[Bob Fisher]

hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels

how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
foreward when it is on the ground

the prop dosen`t touch right??

i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any ideas?


bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6

1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From : admin@airnig.co.uk
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and

vsi

in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival

celebrating

the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From: mkimball@gci.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does and
seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on

the

alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later added

the

"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The

Eliminator

did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.

I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to the
spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or

doing

something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building a
box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff

and

I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.

Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark

plug

wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is low

RF

interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not

aircraft

NAV/COMs.

Mike

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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From: admin@airnig.co.uk
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale

I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web to
download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and print
them out.

That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum size

of

instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's easy

to

cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).

Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came

that

close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.

Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things around
till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best

place.

I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started

cutting

metal.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and

vsi

in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival

celebrating

the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Mike - get a Bose Headset!

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Kimball
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does and
seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on

the

alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later added

the

"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The

Eliminator

did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.

I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to the
spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or

doing

something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building a
box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff

and

I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.

Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark

plug

wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is low

RF

interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not

aircraft

NAV/COMs.

Mike

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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
To: rbel-builders
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 Phosphoric

Acid

Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?


---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

NO! Glue it on and go !

Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe

everything

clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.

----- Original Message -----
From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 Phosphoric
Acid
Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?




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[eric.r]

Get with a GOOD tailwheel CFI and learn the proper method.
On 10/21/2006 5:12 PM, rgfisher@zeuter.com wrote to rebel-builders-d:

-> hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels
->
-> how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
-> foreward when it is on the ground
->
-> the prop dosen`t touch right??
->
-> i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any ideas?
->
->
-> bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
->
->
-> > Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6
-> >
-> > 1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> > 2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > From : mkimball@gci.net
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > 3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > From : admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> > 4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > 5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
-> > From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
-> > Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> > I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
-> > build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
-> > N269DF
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Hi Dale
-> > > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
-> > > as
-> > > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > > without
-> > > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
-> > > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
enough
-> > > room
-> > > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> vsi
-> > > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > >
-> > > Steve W. 637R
-> > >
-> > >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> celebrating
-> > > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
-> > > your
-> > > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
-> > Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > From: mkimball@gci.net
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> tested
-> > on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
-> > know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
-> > running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
-> > that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
-> > problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised
-> but
-> > I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
-> > fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
-> > 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
-> > off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
-> > add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
-> > Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does and
-> > seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
-> > now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> >
-> > Mike
-> >
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Ken
-> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
-> > radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
-> > will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> >
-> > Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
-> > is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
-> > way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> >
-> > Ken
-> >
-> >
-> > Mike Kimball wrote:
-> >
-> > >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on
-> the
-> > >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
-> > >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
added
-> > the
-> > >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> Eliminator
-> > >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > >
-> > >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
the
-> > >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> doing
-> > >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building a
-> > >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff
-> and
-> > >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > >
-> > >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark
-> > plug
-> > >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
low
-> > RF
-> > >interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not
-> aircraft
-> > >NAV/COMs.
-> > >
-> > >Mike
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > From: admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> > Hi Dale
-> >
-> > I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
-> > panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web
to
-> > download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and print
-> > them out.
-> >
-> > That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
size
-> of
-> > instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's easy
-> to
-> > cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).
-> >
-> > Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
-> that
-> > close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
-> >
-> > Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
around
-> > till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best
-> place.
-> >
-> > I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
-> cutting
-> > metal.
-> >
-> > Nig
-> > 745E
-> >
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> > Dale Fultz
-> > Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
-> > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> >
-> > I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
-> > build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
-> > N269DF
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Hi Dale
-> > > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
-> > > as
-> > > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > > without
-> > > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
-> > > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
enough
-> > > room
-> > > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> vsi
-> > > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > >
-> > > Steve W. 637R
-> > >
-> > >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> celebrating
-> > > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
-> > > your
-> > > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > Mike - get a Bose Headset!
-> >
-> > Brian
-> >
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Mike
-> > Kimball
-> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
-> > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> tested
-> > on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
-> > know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
-> > running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
-> > that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
-> > problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised
-> but
-> > I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
-> > fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
-> > 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
-> > off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
-> > add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
-> > Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does and
-> > seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
-> > now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> >
-> > Mike
-> >
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Ken
-> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> >
-> > I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
-> > radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
-> > will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> >
-> > Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
-> > is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
-> > way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> >
-> > Ken
-> >
-> >
-> > Mike Kimball wrote:
-> >
-> > >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on
-> the
-> > >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
-> > >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
added
-> > the
-> > >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> Eliminator
-> > >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > >
-> > >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
the
-> > >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> doing
-> > >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building a
-> > >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff
-> and
-> > >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > >
-> > >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark
-> > plug
-> > >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
low
-> > RF
-> > >interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not
-> aircraft
-> > >NAV/COMs.
-> > >
-> > >Mike
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
-> > From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > To: rbel-builders
-> > Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> >
-> > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 Phosphoric
-> Acid
-> > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> >
-> > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> >
-> > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> >
-> > Then I can start to cover.
-> >
-> > Is all of this necessary?
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
-> > From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > NO! Glue it on and go !
-> >
-> > Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe
-> everything
-> > clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.
-> >
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
-> > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
-> > Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> >
-> > >I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> > >
-> > > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
Phosphoric
-> > > Acid
-> > > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> > >
-> > > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> > >
-> > > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> > >
-> > > Then I can start to cover.
-> > >
-> > > Is all of this necessary?
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> > ----------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-d-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
->





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[Bob Fisher]

hi guys thanks for all the input on wheel landings when I first flew
the bird back 4 yrs ago it was on wheels and while practicing what was
suggested ie; taxying with the tail up I touched the prop on the pavement
at the airport so , naturally I`m a little nervous

however I`m going to see what it looks like from inside the plane at that
attitude then give it a try

I`ll let you know

thanks bob fisher
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 31

1 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:09:49 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

2 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:12:27 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:06:12 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:06:51 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST -

rebel-builders-d

5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:29:40 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: wheel landings

6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:05:34 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

7 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:23:13 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

8 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:04:51 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

9 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:17:41 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: Rebel wing fairing box

10 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:17:47 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

11 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:51:46 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

12 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:57:19 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

13 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 20:53:45 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

14 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 01:01:31 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

15 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 08:28:49 -0400
From : ahepburn@xplornet.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

16 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 06:31:06 -0800
From : eric.r@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

17 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 06:45:42 -0800
From : eric.r@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

18 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:47:52 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Rebel-Changes to panels/wheel landings

19 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
From : bgeorgen@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

20 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:39:23 -0400
From : beep@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel-wheel landings

21 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 08:40:17 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

22 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:29:30 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel-wheel landings

23 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:48:27 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

24 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:56:52 -0600
From : moose174@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

25 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:57:08 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

26 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:23:49 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

27 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 14:45:38 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

28 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:47:31 -0600
From : moose174@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

29 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:52:03 -0700
From : rshannon@cruzcom.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

30 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:55:36 -0700
From : rshannon@cruzcom.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

31 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 18:57:32 -0400
From : dltuck53@hotmail.com
Subject: Lower corner wrap between A and F


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:09:49 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

I fixed my leaking brake on my amphibs. I replaced the O-ring on the puck
(15 cents), and no more leaks. The old one didn't look all that bad,

though,

but I guess it must have been worn slightly or shrunk a bit. The puck and
bore were completely smooth with no signs of scoring. Anyway, all is good
now. I also checked the wear on my pads, and they are still well above the
minimums, so will leave them alone.

Bruce, in this post, you said your axle would rotate on the clamps with
braking. When I took mine apart, I could not see how that is possible. The
brakes are secured to the axle arm with bolts, which should prevent any
movement. Unless, I am totally missing something here...

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
bgeorgen@peoplepc.com
Sent: October 8, 2006 7:54 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

I experienced a weak brake for the longest period and had the brake

assembly

apart several times. It wasn't until I took the wheel off for inspection

at

annual did I noticed the axle was rotating in the C clamp. Every time I
braked in that direction the axle would rotate and simulate a weak brake.

I

can sympathize with your brake assemble frustrations.

Glad you're having a good time fishing at Fire Lake,Walter. I do wish I

was

there. I have been taking advantage of the good weather and flying up to
Priest Lake and exploring the back country by air. We had a bear in our
front yard at Priest L. last month, blocking our departure to a beautiful
hiking trip. After a little exitement the bear soon left and our hike
continued. You and Ruth or Jason do not need an invitation. :-)

Bruce G


----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 8:26 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes

One of my 1800 amphib wheels is leaking fluid. I first thought it was

the

line or connection, but have found that it seems to be coming from the
brake
mechanism itself. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but assume there
must
be some O-ring inside again that is causing the leak. It is very

annoying

as
number one it is causing a little puddle all the time in my hangar, and

I

need to add fluid eventually, but also it affects my braking when

taxiing

if
I have to make a hard turn to one side, because the disc pads get oily.
Has
anyone else experienced this?



Also for Bruce G. and others interesting in fishing locally here, I flew
with my son to Fire Lake again yesterday, and I think I have finally
nailed
the best location and technique to catch as many trout as we want. We
caught
all we wanted in about 2 hours and were throwing back in the smaller

ones.

And we didn't need the inflatable canoe either, as we just stood on big
logs
off the shore line. And it allowed us to figure out exactly which
lures/flies worked and which didn't, as with the clear water, we could

see

all the action. Best fishing I've had for a long time.



Walter





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---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:12:27 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders-d
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels

how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
foreward when it is on the ground

the prop dosen`t touch right??

i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any

ideas?

bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6

1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From : admin@airnig.co.uk
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the

panel

build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale

SR-033

N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.

Kept

as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can

be

tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left

enough

room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and

vsi

in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival

celebrating

the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From: mkimball@gci.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with

the

fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run

above

3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel

pump

off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need

to

add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure

regulator.

Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does

and

seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark

right

now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Ken

Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on

the

alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later

added

the

"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The

Eliminator

did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.

I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to

the

spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or

doing

something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building

a

box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff

and

I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.

Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark

plug

wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is

low

RF

interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not

aircraft

NAV/COMs.

Mike

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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From: admin@airnig.co.uk
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale

I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web

to

download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and print
them out.

That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum

size

of

instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's easy

to

cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).

Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came

that

close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.

Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things

around

till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best

place.

I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started

cutting

metal.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the

panel

build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale

SR-033

N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.

Kept

as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can

be

tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left

enough

room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and

vsi

in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival

celebrating

the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Mike - get a Bose Headset!

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Mike

Kimball
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with

the

fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run

above

3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel

pump

off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need

to

add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure

regulator.

Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does

and

seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark

right

now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Ken

Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on

the

alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later

added

the

"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The

Eliminator

did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.

I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to

the

spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or

doing

something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building

a

box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff

and

I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.

Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap spark

plug

wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is

low

RF

interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not

aircraft

NAV/COMs.

Mike

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-----------------------------------------------------------------




---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
To: rbel-builders
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 Phosphoric

Acid

Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?


---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

NO! Glue it on and go !

Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe

everything

clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.

----- Original Message -----
From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310

Phosphoric

Acid
Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?




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----------




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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:06:12 -0800
From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

Ok, thanks, I guess I'm ready to go then

On 10/21/2006 3:47 PM, oifa@irishfield.on.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> NO! Glue it on and go !
->
-> Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe
everything
-> clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
->
->
-> >I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> >
-> > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
Phosphoric
-> > Acid
-> > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> >
-> > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> >
-> > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> >
-> > Then I can start to cover.
-> >
-> > Is all of this necessary?
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->



---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:06:51 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST -

rebel-builders-d

I think you'll find you can lift the tail above your head and the prop

won't

hit. I rarely wheel land..gotta be blowin pretty darn hard 90* to the

runway

before I risk the farm for a high speed arrival.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:12 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels

how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
foreward when it is on the ground

the prop dosen`t touch right??

i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any
ideas?


bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6

1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From : admin@airnig.co.uk
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the

panel

build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

enough

and

vsi

celebrating

for

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From: mkimball@gci.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you

never

know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the

engine

running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks

possible

that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little

surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure

regulator.

Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does

and

seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark

right

now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Ken

Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely

NOT

radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if

there

is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

on

the

added

the

Eliminator

doing

building

stuff

and

spark

plug RF

aircraft

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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From: admin@airnig.co.uk
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale

I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web

to

download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and

print

them out.

That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum

size

of

instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's

easy

to

cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).

Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came

that

close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.

Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
around
till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best

place.

I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started

cutting

metal.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the

panel

build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

enough

and

vsi

celebrating

for

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---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Mike - get a Bose Headset!

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Mike
Kimball
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator

tested

on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you

never

know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the

engine

running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks

possible

that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little

surprised

but

I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure

regulator.

Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does

and

seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark

right

now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Ken

Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise

I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely

NOT

radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.

Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if

there

is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.

Ken


Mike Kimball wrote:

on

the

added

the

Eliminator

doing

building

stuff

and

spark

plug RF

aircraft

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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
To: rbel-builders
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310

Phosphoric

Acid

Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?


---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

NO! Glue it on and go !

Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe

everything

clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.

----- Original Message -----
From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

----------




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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:29:40 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wheel landings

Bob,
In my opinion wheel landing are a good skill to have in the inventory and

down here (USA) they are required for a taildragger endorsement. I too was
concerned for a prop ding. Sit in the airplane and have a friend lift the
tail until just before the prop would strike. That will give you a sight
picture of how high it has to be. You will find it is a lot higher than you
expect and way past the point whre you would take corrective action. At the
moment the wheels touch it is only necessary to "stick forward" enogh to
kill the lift and that is very little.

Do beware the balloon however if your sink rate at touchdown is to high

and be ready to convert to a 3 point or go around.

Ralph Baker
(Wish we still had the Champ)

---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:05:34 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

Don't get me wrong Ralph....it is a skill in a tail dragger that you'd
better know how to do, how to use and when to use it. Pick a calm day

Bob..

and run your airplane down the strip and lift the tail and keep it that

way

the length of the strip with elevator (forward stick) and power. You

should

be able to get to the point where you can keep it there with power,
elevator, brakes, be able to do the turn around at the end of the strip

and

bring it all the way back. I can even hold mine in one place on the mains
only using brakes, elevator and power. This "skill" will come in really
handy when trying to turn around on skis in tight confines as well.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@sc.rr.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:29 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

Bob,
In my opinion wheel landing are a good skill to have in the inventory

and

down here (USA) they are required for a taildragger endorsement. I too
was concerned for a prop ding. Sit in the airplane and have a friend

lift

the tail until just before the prop would strike. That will give you a
sight picture of how high it has to be. You will find it is a lot

higher

than you expect and way past the point whre you would take corrective
action. At the moment the wheels touch it is only necessary to "stick
forward" enogh to kill the lift and that is very little.

Do beware the balloon however if your sink rate at touchdown is to high
and be ready to convert to a 3 point or go around.
Ralph Baker
(Wish we still had the Champ)



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---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:23:13 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover

At 03:34 PM 10/21/2006 -0800, you wrote:

I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.

It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 Phosphoric

Acid

Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.

Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.

Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.

Then I can start to cover.

Is all of this necessary?

I sure hope not.
Drew

---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:04:51 -0400
From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

Ralph,

I learned to fly in a J3, that was my first solo and subsequently I spent

a

reasonable amount of time flying it. Wheel landings were never 'required'
as part of the 'endorsement,' but I don't disagree that the skill is good

to

have in the tool box. Is this something new?

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Ralph

Baker
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:30 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] wheel landings

Bob,
In my opinion wheel landing are a good skill to have in the inventory and
down here (USA) they are required for a taildragger endorsement. I too

was

concerned for a prop ding. Sit in the airplane and have a friend lift the
tail until just before the prop would strike. That will give you a sight
picture of how high it has to be. You will find it is a lot higher than

you

expect and way past the point whre you would take corrective action. At

the

moment the wheels touch it is only necessary to "stick forward" enogh to
kill the lift and that is very little.

Do beware the balloon however if your sink rate at touchdown is to high

and

be ready to convert to a 3 point or go around.
Ralph Baker
(Wish we still had the Champ)



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---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:17:41 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: Rebel wing fairing box

I had no trouble with the book method. I did draw a couple of the holes
a wee bit with a file before reaming.
I used a 2.5 thou undersize reamer on the AN6. One thou undersize on
the AN-4 size was still a bit sloppy so I used precision AN174 bolts
there which are larger than AN-4.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Jesse,

A swept wing Rebel! There's a thought....

I figured that if I had to make any adjusments I would do it when I drill
out the holes for the mounting bolts.

Did anyone else have any trouble with wing alignment using the procedure

in

the manual??

Allen
----- Original Message

[eric.r]

"Touching the prop on the pavement" is serious ... if only in a taxi mode, the
angle of the fuselage must have been extremely forawrd of horizontal or the
prop was way too long and needed trimming anyway! Now compressing the
gear in a hard landing is another story. Good wheel landings are "touch and
stay", not "plant and stick". After getting proficient in tail low wheel landings,
level wheel landings, etc. have your instructor (or mentor) get you proficient
in "one wheel" landings, both left and right. I have practiced landings in
conditions that required one wheel, full aileron, and a weathervane into the
wind as the aileron lost effectiveness. In actual 90 degree 40 knot crosswind
(Fox field in Lancaster Ca.), I landed into the wind on the runup area and
stopped before runway centerline ... ground crew then backed the aircraft by
hand into a tiedown!
On 10/22/2006 5:37 PM, rgfisher@zeuter.com wrote to rebel-builders-d:

-> hi guys thanks for all the input on wheel landings when I first flew
-> the bird back 4 yrs ago it was on wheels and while practicing what was
-> suggested ie; taxying with the tail up I touched the prop on the
pavement
-> at the airport so , naturally I`m a little nervous
->
-> however I`m going to see what it looks like from inside the plane at that
-> attitude then give it a try
->
-> I`ll let you know
->
-> thanks bob fisher
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 8:00 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
->
->
-> > Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 31
-> >
-> > 1 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:09:49 -0700
-> > From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> > 2 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:12:27 -0400
-> > From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> > 3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:06:12 -0800
-> > From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:06:51 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST -
-> rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> > 5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:29:40 -0400
-> > From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
-> > Subject: wheel landings
-> >
-> > 6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:05:34 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 7 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 22:23:13 -0400
-> > From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 8 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:04:51 -0400
-> > From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 9 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:17:41 -0400
-> > From : klehman@albedo.net
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: Rebel wing fairing box
-> >
-> > 10 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:17:47 -0400
-> > From : klehman@albedo.net
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 11 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:51:46 -0800
-> > From : mkimball@gci.net
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 12 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:57:19 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 13 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 20:53:45 -0800
-> > From : mkimball@gci.net
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 14 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 01:01:31 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 15 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 08:28:49 -0400
-> > From : ahepburn@xplornet.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> >
-> > 16 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 06:31:06 -0800
-> > From : eric.r@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> > 17 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 06:45:42 -0800
-> > From : eric.r@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 18 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:47:52 -0400
-> > From : klehman@albedo.net
-> > Subject: Rebel-Changes to panels/wheel landings
-> >
-> > 19 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
-> > From : bgeorgen@peoplepc.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> > 20 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:39:23 -0400
-> > From : beep@sympatico.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel-wheel landings
-> >
-> > 21 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 08:40:17 -0700
-> > From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> > 22 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:29:30 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel-wheel landings
-> >
-> > 23 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:48:27 -0400
-> > From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 24 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:56:52 -0600
-> > From : moose174@gmail.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 25 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:57:08 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 26 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 10:23:49 -0800
-> > From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 27 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 14:45:38 -0400
-> > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 28 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:47:31 -0600
-> > From : moose174@gmail.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 29 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:52:03 -0700
-> > From : rshannon@cruzcom.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel landings
-> >
-> > 30 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 11:55:36 -0700
-> > From : rshannon@cruzcom.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > 31 Date : Sun, 22 Oct 2006 18:57:32 -0400
-> > From : dltuck53@hotmail.com
-> > Subject: Lower corner wrap between A and F
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:09:49 -0700
-> > From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> > I fixed my leaking brake on my amphibs. I replaced the O-ring on the
puck
-> > (15 cents), and no more leaks. The old one didn't look all that bad,
-> though,
-> > but I guess it must have been worn slightly or shrunk a bit. The puck and
-> > bore were completely smooth with no signs of scoring. Anyway, all is
good
-> > now. I also checked the wear on my pads, and they are still well above
the
-> > minimums, so will leave them alone.
-> >
-> > Bruce, in this post, you said your axle would rotate on the clamps with
-> > braking. When I took mine apart, I could not see how that is possible.
The
-> > brakes are secured to the axle arm with bolts, which should prevent any
-> > movement. Unless, I am totally missing something here...
-> >
-> > Walter
-> >
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
-> > bgeorgen@peoplepc.com
-> > Sent: October 8, 2006 7:54 PM
-> > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> > I experienced a weak brake for the longest period and had the brake
-> assembly
-> >
-> > apart several times. It wasn't until I took the wheel off for inspection
-> at
-> > annual did I noticed the axle was rotating in the C clamp. Every time I
-> > braked in that direction the axle would rotate and simulate a weak brake.
-> I
-> > can sympathize with your brake assemble frustrations.
-> >
-> > Glad you're having a good time fishing at Fire Lake,Walter. I do wish I
-> was
-> > there. I have been taking advantage of the good weather and flying up
to
-> > Priest Lake and exploring the back country by air. We had a bear in our
-> > front yard at Priest L. last month, blocking our departure to a beautiful
-> > hiking trip. After a little exitement the bear soon left and our hike
-> > continued. You and Ruth or Jason do not need an invitation. :-)
-> >
-> > Bruce G
-> >
-> >
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
-> > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2006 8:26 AM
-> > Subject: [rebel-builders] Amphib Brakes
-> >
-> >
-> > > One of my 1800 amphib wheels is leaking fluid. I first thought it was
-> the
-> > > line or connection, but have found that it seems to be coming from the
-> > > brake
-> > > mechanism itself. I haven't taken anything apart yet, but assume there
-> > > must
-> > > be some O-ring inside again that is causing the leak. It is very
-> annoying
-> > > as
-> > > number one it is causing a little puddle all the time in my hangar, and
-> I
-> > > need to add fluid eventually, but also it affects my braking when
-> taxiing
-> > > if
-> > > I have to make a hard turn to one side, because the disc pads get oily.
-> > > Has
-> > > anyone else experienced this?
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Also for Bruce G. and others interesting in fishing locally here, I flew
-> > > with my son to Fire Lake again yesterday, and I think I have finally
-> > > nailed
-> > > the best location and technique to catch as many trout as we want.
We
-> > > caught
-> > > all we wanted in about 2 hours and were throwing back in the smaller
-> ones.
-> > > And we didn't need the inflatable canoe either, as we just stood on big
-> > > logs
-> > > off the shore line. And it allowed us to figure out exactly which
-> > > lures/flies worked and which didn't, as with the clear water, we could
-> see
-> > > all the action. Best fishing I've had for a long time.
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Walter
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:12:27 -0400
-> > From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
-> > To: rebel-builders-d
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> > hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels
-> >
-> > how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
-> > foreward when it is on the ground
-> >
-> > the prop dosen`t touch right??
-> >
-> > i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any
-> ideas?
-> >
-> >
-> > bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> > To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
-> > Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> >
-> > > Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6
-> > >
-> > > 1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > > From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > > 2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > > From : mkimball@gci.net
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > 3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > > From : admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > > 4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > > From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > 5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
-> > > From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > > Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >
-> > > 6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
-> > > From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
-> > > Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > > From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > > To: rebel-builders
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > > I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel
-> > > build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > > opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
-> SR-033
-> > > N269DF
-> > > ----- Original Message -----
-> > > From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > > Hi Dale
-> > > > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> Kept
-> > > > as
-> > > > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > > > without
-> > > > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> be
-> > > > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > > > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > > > room
-> > > > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> > vsi
-> > > > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > > >
-> > > > Steve W. 637R
-> > > >
-> > > >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > > > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> > celebrating
-> > > > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest
for
-> > > > your
-> > > > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
-> > > Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > > From: mkimball@gci.net
-> > > To: rebel-builders
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> > tested
-> > > on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you
never
-> > > know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
-> > > running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
-> > > that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
-> > > problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised
-> > but
-> > > I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
-> the
-> > > fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
-> above
-> > > 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
-> pump
-> > > off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
-> to
-> > > add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure
-> regulator.
-> > > Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > > suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does
-> and
-> > > seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark
-> right
-> > > now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> > >
-> > > Mike
-> > >
-> > > -----Original Message-----
-> > > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of
-> Ken
-> > > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > > noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > > ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > > Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > > I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > > line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
-> > > radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening.
Shielding
-> > > will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> > >
-> > > Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
-> > > is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
-> > > way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > > receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > > with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> > >
-> > > Ken
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Mike Kimball wrote:
-> > >
-> > > >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on
-> > the
-> > > >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator
filter
-> > > >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
-> added
-> > > the
-> > > >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> > Eliminator
-> > > >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > > >
-> > > >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
-> the
-> > > >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> > doing
-> > > >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about
building
-> a
-> > > >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff
-> > and
-> > > >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > > >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > > >
-> > > >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap
spark
-> > > plug
-> > > >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
-> low
-> > > RF
-> > > >interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not
-> > aircraft
-> > > >NAV/COMs.
-> > > >
-> > > >Mike
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
-> > > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > > From: admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > > To: rebel-builders
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > > Hi Dale
-> > >
-> > > I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
-> > > panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the
web
-> to
-> > > download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
print
-> > > them out.
-> > >
-> > > That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
-> size
-> > of
-> > > instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's
easy
-> > to
-> > > cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).
-> > >
-> > > Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
-> > that
-> > > close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
-> > >
-> > > Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
-> around
-> > > till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best
-> > place.
-> > >
-> > > I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
-> > cutting
-> > > metal.
-> > >
-> > > Nig
-> > > 745E
-> > >
-> > > -----Original Message-----
-> > > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf
Of
-> > > Dale Fultz
-> > > Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
-> > > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel
-> > > build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > > opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
-> SR-033
-> > > N269DF
-> > > ----- Original Message -----
-> > > From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > > Hi Dale
-> > > > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> Kept
-> > > > as
-> > > > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > > > without
-> > > > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> be
-> > > > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > > > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > > > room
-> > > > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> > vsi
-> > > > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > > >
-> > > > Steve W. 637R
-> > > >
-> > > >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > > > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> > celebrating
-> > > > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest
for
-> > > > your
-> > > > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
-> > > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > > From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > > To: rebel-builders
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > Mike - get a Bose Headset!
-> > >
-> > > Brian
-> > >
-> > > -----Original Message-----
-> > > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of
-> Mike
-> > > Kimball
-> > > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
-> > > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > > Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> > tested
-> > > on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you
never
-> > > know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
-> > > running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
-> > > that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
-> > > problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprised
-> > but
-> > > I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
-> the
-> > > fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
-> above
-> > > 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
-> pump
-> > > off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
-> to
-> > > add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure
-> regulator.
-> > > Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > > suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does
-> and
-> > > seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark
-> right
-> > > now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> > >
-> > > Mike
-> > >
-> > > -----Original Message-----
-> > > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of
-> Ken
-> > > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > > To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >
-> > > I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > > noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > > ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > > Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > > I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > > line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
-> > > radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening.
Shielding
-> > > will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> > >
-> > > Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
-> > > is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
-> > > way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > > receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > > with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> > >
-> > > Ken
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Mike Kimball wrote:
-> > >
-> > > >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter on
-> > the
-> > > >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator
filter
-> > > >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
-> added
-> > > the
-> > > >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> > Eliminator
-> > > >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > > >
-> > > >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
-> the
-> > > >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> > doing
-> > > >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about
building
-> a
-> > > >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuff
-> > and
-> > > >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > > >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > > >
-> > > >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap
spark
-> > > plug
-> > > >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
-> low
-> > > RF
-> > > >interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not
-> > aircraft
-> > > >NAV/COMs.
-> > > >
-> > > >Mike
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
-> > > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
-> > > From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > > To: rbel-builders
-> > > Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >
-> > > I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> > >
-> > > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
Phosphoric
-> > Acid
-> > > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> > >
-> > > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> > >
-> > > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> > >
-> > > Then I can start to cover.
-> > >
-> > > Is all of this necessary?
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
-> > > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
-> > > From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > > To: rebel-builders
-> > > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >
-> > > NO! Glue it on and go !
-> > >
-> > > Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe
-> > everything
-> > > clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.
-> > >
-> > > ----- Original Message -----
-> > > From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
-> > > To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
-> > > Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > >I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> > > >
-> > > > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
-> Phosphoric
-> > > > Acid
-> > > > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> > > >
-> > > > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> > > >
-> > > > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> > > >
-> > > > Then I can start to cover.
-> > > >
-> > > > Is all of this necessary?
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > ----------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-d-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 17:06:12 -0800
-> > From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> >
-> > Ok, thanks, I guess I'm ready to go then
-> >
-> > On 10/21/2006 3:47 PM, oifa@irishfield.on.ca wrote to rebel-builders:
-> >
-> > -> NO! Glue it on and go !
-> > ->
-> > -> Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipe
-> > everything
-> > -> clean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.
-> > ->
-> > -> ----- Original Message -----
-> > -> From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
-> > -> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > -> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
-> > -> Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> > -> >I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
-> > Phosphoric
-> > -> > Acid
-> > -> > Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Then I can start to cover.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Is all of this necessary?
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > -> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > -> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > -> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > -> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > ->
-> > ->
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > ---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
-> > Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 21:06:51 -0400
-> > From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > To: rebel-builders
-> > Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST -
-> rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> > I think you'll find you can lift the tail above your head and the prop
-> won't
-> > hit. I rarely wheel land..gotta be blowin pretty darn hard 90* to the
-> runway
-> > before I risk the farm for a high speed arrival.
-> >
-> > ----- Original Message -----
-> > From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
-> > To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:12 PM
-> > Subject: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> >
-> >
-> > > hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels
-> > >
-> > > how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
-> > > foreward when it is on the ground
-> > >
-> > > the prop dosen`t touch right??
-> > >
-> > > i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any
-> > > ideas?
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
-> > > ----- Original Message -----
-> > > From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> > > To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
-> > > Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
-> > > Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >> Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6
-> > >>
-> > >> 1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > >> From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >> 2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > >> From : mkimball@gci.net
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> 3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > >> From : admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >> 4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > >> From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> 5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
-> > >> From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
-> > >> Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >>
-> > >> 6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
-> > >> From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> ---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
-> > >> Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
-> > >> From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
-> > >> To: rebel-builders
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >> I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel
-> > >> build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > >> opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
-> > >> SR-033
-> > >> N269DF
-> > >> ----- Original Message -----
-> > >> From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > >> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > >> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> > Hi Dale
-> > >> > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> > >> > Kept
-> > >> > as
-> > >> > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > >> > without
-> > >> > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> > >> > be
-> > >> > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I
put a
-> > >> > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > >> > room
-> > >> > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt
-> and
-> > > vsi
-> > >> > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > >> >
-> > >> > Steve W. 637R
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > >> > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> > > celebrating
-> > >> > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest
-> for
-> > >> > your
-> > >> > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
-
-> > >> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > >> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > >> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > >> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
-
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> ---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
-> > >> Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
-> > >> From: mkimball@gci.net
-> > >> To: rebel-builders
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> > > tested
-> > >> on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you
-> never
-> > >> know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the
-> engine
-> > >> running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks
-> possible
-> > >> that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and
causing
-> > >> problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little
-> surprised
-> > > but
-> > >> I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM
with
-> > >> the
-> > >> fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
-> > >> above
-> > >> 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
-> > >> pump
-> > >> off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll
need
-> > >> to
-> > >> add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure
-> regulator.
-> > >> Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > >> suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does
-> and
-> > >> seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark
-> right
-> > >> now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> > >>
-> > >> Mike
-> > >>
-> > >> -----Original Message-----
-> > >> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On
Behalf Of
-> Ken
-> > >> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > >> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > >> noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > >> ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > >> Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > >> I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > >> line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely
-> NOT
-> > >> radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening.
Shielding
-> > >> will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> > >>
-> > >> Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if
-> there
-> > >> is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the
best
-> > >> way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > >> receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > >> with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> > >>
-> > >> Ken
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> Mike Kimball wrote:
-> > >>
-> > >> >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter
-> on
-> > > the
-> > >> >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator
filter
-> > >> >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
-> added
-> > >> the
-> > >> >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> > > Eliminator
-> > >> >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > >> >
-> > >> >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect
to
-> > >> >the
-> > >> >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> > > doing
-> > >> >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about
-> building
-> > >> >a
-> > >> >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and
-> stuff
-> > > and
-> > >> >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > >> >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > >> >
-> > >> >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap
-> spark
-> > >> plug
-> > >> >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
-> > >> >low
-> > >> RF
-> > >> >interference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, not
-> > > aircraft
-> > >> >NAV/COMs.
-> > >> >
-> > >> >Mike
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >> List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > >> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > >> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > >> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> ---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
-> > >> Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
-> > >> From: admin@airnig.co.uk
-> > >> To: rebel-builders
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >> Hi Dale
-> > >>
-> > >> I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
-> > >> panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the
web
-> to
-> > >> download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
-> print
-> > >> them out.
-> > >>
-> > >> That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out
maximum
-> size
-> > > of
-> > >> instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's
-> easy
-> > > to
-> > >> cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).
-> > >>
-> > >> Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
-> > > that
-> > >> close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
-> > >>
-> > >> Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
-> > >> around
-> > >> till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best
-> > > place.
-> > >>
-> > >> I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
-> > > cutting
-> > >> metal.
-> > >>
-> > >> Nig
-> > >> 745E
-> > >>
-> > >> -----Original Message-----
-> > >> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf
Of
-> > >> Dale Fultz
-> > >> Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
-> > >> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel
-> > >> build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
-> > >> opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
-> > >> SR-033
-> > >> N269DF
-> > >> ----- Original Message -----
-> > >> From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> > >> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> > >> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> > Hi Dale
-> > >> > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> > >> > Kept
-> > >> > as
-> > >> > much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
-> > >> > without
-> > >> > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> > >> > be
-> > >> > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I
put a
-> > >> > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > >> > room
-> > >> > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt
-> and
-> > > vsi
-> > >> > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> > >> >
-> > >> > Steve W. 637R
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > >> > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> > > celebrating
-> > >> > the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest
-> for
-> > >> > your
-> > >> > a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
-
-> > >> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > >> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > >> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > >> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > >> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
-
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >> >
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >> List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > >> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > >> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > >> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> ---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
-> > >> Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
-> > >> From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
-> > >> To: rebel-builders
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> Mike - get a Bose Headset!
-> > >>
-> > >> Brian
-> > >>
-> > >> -----Original Message-----
-> > >> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On
Behalf Of
-> > >> Mike
-> > >> Kimball
-> > >> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
-> > >> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > >> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternator
-> > > tested
-> > >> on NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you
-> never
-> > >> know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the
-> engine
-> > >> running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks
-> possible
-> > >> that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and
causing
-> > >> problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little
-> surprised
-> > > but
-> > >> I had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM
with
-> > >> the
-> > >> fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
-> > >> above
-> > >> 3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
-> > >> pump
-> > >> off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll
need
-> > >> to
-> > >> add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure
-> regulator.
-> > >> Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
-> > >> suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel
does
-> and
-> > >> seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark
-> right
-> > >> now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
-> > >>
-> > >> Mike
-> > >>
-> > >> -----Original Message-----
-> > >> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On
Behalf Of
-> Ken
-> > >> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
-> > >> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> > >> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
-> > >>
-> > >> I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
-> > >> noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
-> > >> ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
-> > >> Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
-> > >> I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
-> > >> line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely
-> NOT
-> > >> radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening.
Shielding
-> > >> will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
-> > >>
-> > >> Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if
-> there
-> > >> is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the
best
-> > >> way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
-> > >> receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
-> > >> with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
-> > >>
-> > >> Ken
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >> Mike Kimball wrote:
-> > >>
-> > >> >I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter
-> on
-> > > the
-> > >> >alternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator
filter
-> > >> >(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later
-> added
-> > >> the
-> > >> >"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. The
-> > > Eliminator
-> > >> >did help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
-> > >> >
-> > >> >I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect
to
-> > >> >the
-> > >> >spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff or
-> > > doing
-> > >> >something to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about
-> building
-> > >> >a
-> > >> >box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and
-> stuff
-> > > and
-> > >> >I thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
-> > >> >necessary on other conversions I've seen.
-> > >> >
-> > >> >Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap
-> spark
-> > >> plug
-> > >> >wires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
-> > >> >low
-> &gt

[Gilles St-Pierre]

To Allmy experience with The Ultralight Store has taught me to stay away
from these poeple .
Besides not delivering the part they like to add... a small percentage on
your credit card...
dr gilles st pierre

From: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com (rebel-builders-d digest)
Reply-To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2007 15:00:08 -0900

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 2

1 Date : Sat, 08 Sep 2007 19:20:26 -0400
From : jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] ultralight store

2 Date : Sat, 08 Sep 2007 21:18:50 -0600
From : wrightdg@davincibb.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] ultralight store


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 19:20:26 -0400
From: jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] ultralight store

Hello Gary

If it is the guy who was selling the "Lil Buzzard" ultralight (copy of the
Karatoo), my only experience with him recommend to stay away from...

Jean
Rebel 747R

On Sat Sep 8 10:55 , Garry Wright <wrightdg@davincibb.net> sent:

I ordered a new VSI from the "Ultralite Store" in Barrie, Ont. via their
website(www.ultralightnews.com). This was about 3 weeks ago I've had no
response from them yet after two emails and several phone calls. Does
anyone know if they are still in business? Anyone ever buy anything from
them? Are they for real? On vacation? Asleep? Comatose? Dead? Worse?

Garry
068R



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-----------------------------------------------------------------

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 21:18:50 -0600
From: wrightdg@davincibb.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] ultralight store

Thanks Jean. They claim the VSI is back ordered and expected in this
week. I will let the group know what happens.

Garry

jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com wrote:

Hello Gary

If it is the guy who was selling the "Lil Buzzard" ultralight (copy of

the Karatoo), my only experience with him recommend to stay away from...

Jean
Rebel 747R

On Sat Sep 8 10:55 , Garry Wright <wrightdg@davincibb.net> sent:

I ordered a new VSI from the "Ultralite Store" in Barrie, Ont. via

their

website(www.ultralightnews.com). This was about 3 weeks ago I've had no
response from them yet after two emails and several phone calls. Does
anyone know if they are still in business? Anyone ever buy anything

from

them? Are they for real? On vacation? Asleep? Comatose? Dead? Worse?

Garry
068R



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----------




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_________________________________________________________________
See Fireworks On Live Image Search
http://search.live.com/images/results.a ... ORM=SERNEP




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[jim wilson]

Hi Bob,

Hope you are getting some great fall flying in.

We had a very wet couple of weeks. But the last two or so have been
phenomenal. And the 701 has been busy. Very fun flying!!

Can you tell me what the difference is in the Rebel versions of the 1450 lb,
1232 lb and 1320 lb and the 1650 lb one. Are the 3 lighter weight versions
all the same structurally and the only difference in weight it the
powerplant chosen? I am assuming that there are some differences compared
to the 1650 lb version. But have never seen anything in print on any of
this.

Does Murphy build a fast build version of the LSA (1320 lb) model? Or do
they have any plans on doing so? Is the 1320 lb version identical to the
Canadian 1232 version?

A friend of mine was asking about the Rebel and the LSA vs 1650 lb one and I
am not an expert.

Did see your ad in Kitplanes I think it was. Looks good.

Maybe I can get in on some of the Ramble next year. Missed it this year due
to a lot of roof work.

Cheers,
Jim Wilson
Portland, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 11

1 Date : Sat, 3 Nov 2007 19:22:46 -0400
From : snowyrvr@mtaonline.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Spar Question

2 Date : Sat, 03 Nov 2007 20:08:32 -0500
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Spar Question

3 Date : Sat, 3 Nov 2007 20:16:21 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Spar Question

4 Date : Sat, 3 Nov 2007 22:56:08 +0000
From : beep@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel - Rudder Spar Question

5 Date : Sun, 04 Nov 2007 08:38:34 -0900
From : bransom@dcsol.com
Subject: floor bulkhead C cutouts?

6 Date : Sun, 4 Nov 2007 16:56:23 -0300
From : mario@larnet.com.br
Subject:

7 Date : Sun, 4 Nov 2007 19:30:49 +0000
From : beep@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel - enines

8 Date : Sun, 04 Nov 2007 15:18:53 -0500
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] floor bulkhead C cutouts?

9 Date : Sun, 04 Nov 2007 15:44:31 -0500
From : jcole@rangroup.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]

10 Date : Sun, 04 Nov 2007 15:50:55 -0500
From : jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]

11 Date : Sun, 04 Nov 2007 15:19:41 -0500
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 19:22:46 -0400
From: snowyrvr@mtaonline.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Spar Question

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the reply. The manual update is from MAM...it's a single page
which outlines steps 6,7, and 8 or something like that. (I'm at work right
now). Also, how can the measurements be correct if they tell you to cut
the spar to 46 1/4" and then have you place one of the rib location holes
at 46 7/8? Seems like it'd be a little tough! How did you handle that?
I
checked Wray's rebel site and his re-written manual; he doesn't mention
the
"cut to length" step but shows the same 46 7/8" rib measurement.

As far as the kit goes, I'm reasonably certain that it hasn't been messed
with based on not only the appearance of the components and my impression
of the seller.

It's a mystery so far.

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Ken klehman@albedo.net
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 09:21:40 -0500
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rudder Spar Question


Craig

My 1998 electronic manual still gives the same measurements that you
quote. Unless someone remembers better than me I think the manual is
correct in this particular case. Suspect you need new spars or must
shorten the stab/fin/elevator/rudder a bit which would be a lot of
opportunity to make even bigger errors. Many of us found that a second
hand kit was not quite the bargain it appeared to be but it did get us
started and new spars would be a minor thing in the big scheme.

This is a handwritten change??
I'm not MAM but page 7/27/94 was part of my original manual and it does
not mention spar length. I can't find any evidence that MAM ever issued
a bulletin to change anything there. Certainly nothing with that date.
That said I wish I'd made my rudder spar perhaps 1/16" shorter to better
fit a nylon washer in between the hinges. Note that all the Rebel
bulletins did end in RB or REB to specify that they were not for the
biplane.

Ken
119R

Craig Walls wrote:

Hi fellas!



I'm building the rudder now and have hit a little stumbling block. My kit
is a '92. (207) I'm at the part where you cut the rudder/elevator spars

to

length. In the manual, there's a one page update put in by the previous
owner dated 7/27/94 which says to cut the spars to 46

[Warren Cottrell]

Hi everyone. I still a dreamer, not a builder yet. Does anyone know of an orphaned Rebel kit looking for a new home? I've been watching ebay and barnstormers, as well as seeing if I can fund a new factory supplied kit, but I hear there are orphans out there.

Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:00:05 -0900> From: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com> Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d> To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com> > Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 8> > 1 Date : Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:41:04 -0500> From : gargus@comcast.net> Subject: MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > 2 Date : Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:50:35 -0500> From : dfultz17086@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > 3 Date : Tue, 15 Jan 2008 18:20:58 -0900> From : bransom@dcsol.com> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] LED landing/taxi lights> > 4 Date : Wed, 16 Jan 2008 22:24:35 -0500> From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > 5 Date : Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:28:20 -0800 (PST)> From : super_rebel131@yahoo.com> Subject: Moose control sticks> > 6 Date : Wed, 16 Jan 2008 10:25:20 -0800> From : rwampach@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > 7 Date : Wed, 16 Jan 2008 12:43

:07 -0600> From : cws19
3
2@cox.net> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > 8 Date : Wed, 16 Jan 2008 13:51:02 -0500> From : dfultz17086@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > > ---------- Digest Message #1 ----------> Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:41:04 -0500> From: gargus@comcast.net> To: rebel-builders> Subject: MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > I have just uploaded a picture of the MAM wing tip> landing lights that one has to cut into the MAM> standard wing tip. MAM quoted $825 for the kit.> Has anyone installed these lights on their Rebel/> Elite and what do you think of them? Is it > Difficult to get the correct alignment when installing?> > > > ---------- Digest Message #2 ----------> Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:50:35 -0500> From: dfultz17086@embarqmail.com> To: rebel-builders> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > Gary if you want a taxi and landing light set for in the leading edge,, I > have a set for sale, I bought them from Wayne , and not us
ing them now since > I
a
m installing a HID landing light in the cowling.. Let me know if > interested... Dale SR-033 > > > ---------- Digest Message #3 ----------> Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 18:20:58 -0900> From: bransom@dcsol.com> To: rebel-builders> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] LED landing/taxi lights> > I had looked only partially at aeroled.com, and when seeing the price was> kind of wondering why the guys at my field were talking them up so much. > Glad for the note that other stuff such as HID is closer to my definition> of cheap. ;)> > As for whether to be on the list or not depending on who built what -- I> don't think that was anybody's point. Feedback and Murphy hangar talk is> all that's needed.> > -Ben > > ---------- Digest Message #4 ----------> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 22:24:35 -0500> From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> To: rebel-builders> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] MAM Wingtip landing Lights> > Hi Gary I didn't even know MAM had these they look very nice but if it was> my money I'd be buying Fife tips i
nstead.> > At 08:41 PM
1
/15/2008 -0500, you wrote:> >I have just uploaded a picture of the MAM wing tip> >landing lights that one has to cut into the MAM> >standard wing tip. MAM quoted $825 for the kit.> >Has anyone installed these lights on their Rebel/> >Elite and what do you think of them? Is it > >Difficult to get the correct alignment when installing?> >> > Drew> > ---------- Digest Message #5 ----------> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:28:20 -0800 (PST)> From: super_rebel131@yahoo.com> To: rebel-builders> Subject: Moose control sticks> > Guys,> > I couldn't find any reference in the manual to> mounting the control sticks in the control bases> (CC-36 i think?). > > I'm sure it's not rocket science, but I am guessing 2> to 3 inches overlap and a bolt with fibre nut? Sound> ok?> > Thanks, -Jason> > > ____________________________________________________________________________________> Looking for last minute shopping deals? > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.ph
p?category=shopping> >
-
--------- Digest Message #6 ----------> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 10:25:20 -0800> From: rwampach@comcast.net> To: rebel-builders> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > Hi Jason, as a retired "rocket scientist", I can say sounds like you are> right on! you may have to remove some of the finish to get one to slide> over the other, they are a very close tolerance, at least on my moose.> > If you are going to use a hand grip mounted in the top you will probably> have to shorten them a bit as you could hit the instrument panel or side> wall. Check it out with the elevator and ailerons hooked up for full> travel.> > Dick Wampach SR-108> > > > -----Original Message-----> On Behalf Of Jason Beall> > Guys,> > I couldn't find any reference in the manual to> mounting the control sticks in the control bases> (CC-36 i think?). > > I'm sure it's not rocket science, but I am guessing 2> to 3 inches overlap and a bolt with fibre nut? Sound> ok?> > Thanks, -Jason> > > > > > ---------- Dige
st Message #7 ---------
-

Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 12:43:07 -0600> From: cws1932@cox.net> To: rebel-builders> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > On my Moose, the sticks had to be "sanded" slightly to slip in the sockets. > However, I think they need two bolts (preferably 90* to each other) to keep > any play out of the sticks and sockets. I, likewise, had to shorten them > some, especially when adding a grip with switches; and to prevent hitting > the side panels. I also added some extra "bend" for both comfort and to > prevent the stick from hitting the panel. A local boat shop with a tube > bender made this easy.> > Charlie Starr Moose N96CS> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Wampach" <rwampach@comcast.net>> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 12:25 PM> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Moose control sticks> > > > Hi Jason, as a retired "rocket scientist", I can say sounds like you are> > right on! you may have to remove some of the finish to get one

to slide> > over the ot
h
er, they are a very close tolerance, at least on my moose.> >> > If you are going to use a hand grip mounted in the top you will probably> > have to shorten them a bit as you could hit the instrument panel or side> > wall. Check it out with the elevator and ailerons hooked up for full> > travel.> >> > Dick Wampach SR-108> >> >> >> > -----Original Message-----> > On Behalf Of Jason Beall> >> > Guys,> >> > I couldn't find any reference in the manual to> > mounting the control sticks in the control bases> > (CC-36 i think?).> >> > I'm sure it's not rocket science, but I am guessing 2> > to 3 inches overlap and a bolt with fibre nut? Sound> > ok?> >> > Thanks, -Jason> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > -----------------------------------------------------------------> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login> > username "rebel" password "builder"> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com> > -----------------------------------------
-----------------------
-

[/quote]_________________________________________________________________





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[Richard Arnold]

Just purchased a Murphy Renegade with a Rotex 2800 radial engine. Is anyone
out there familiar with a builders club for the Murphy Renegade

Sincerely,

Richard Arnold
Proprietor
Arnold Estates
3459 Arnold Estates Parkway
Sevierville, TN 37876

865-429-8259
800--969-4504
www.arnoldestates.com

ARNOLD ESTATES
Log Cabin & Equestrian Resort

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
rebel-builders-d digest
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 8:00 PM
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 4

1 Date : Sun, 16 Mar 2008 11:26:21 -0600
From : tedwaltman@i1ci.com
Subject: Turnbuckles

2 Date : Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:01:13 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Turnbuckles and right wing heaviness

3 Date : Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:06:05 -0700
From : rshannon@cruzcom.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Turnbuckles and right wing heaviness

4 Date : Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:06:44 -0600
From : tedwaltman@i1ci.com
Subject: Moose extended baggage area


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 11:26:21 -0600
From: tedwaltman@i1ci.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Turnbuckles

Going to order two turnbuckle assemblies today. Thought it would be an easy
process <sigh>.



I'm looking on-line at Aircraft Spruce & Wicks (better drawings) at the
admittedly bewildering variety of turnbuckle assemblies and part #'s.



http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/pr ... index.html



Hopefully someone can save me a whole lot of heavy-duty head scratching.
These will be used for my rudder cables.



. Since turnbuckles come in a variety of strength ratings, how
strong is strong enough for the rudder cable assembly

. When would one use an AN-165 pin eye versus an AN-170 Cable-Eye
versus an AN-161 Turnbuckle Fork?

. What are the pro/cons of simply attaching the cable with a thimble
through the eyebolt of the turnbuckle (e.g. AN-170 cable eye) versus using
an AN-161 turnbuckle fork on one end

. Will an AN-111-4 cable bushing will fit between the tines of an
AN-161 turnbuckle fork?



Geesh, science project <grin>



Thank you for your input!



Ted Waltman











---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:01:13 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Turnbuckles and right wing heaviness

IIRC the pin eye is a hole drilled through the end for a bolt or pin.
The cable eye is drilled but then rounded/chamfered (kind of like an
overly deep deburred hole) so there are no sharp edges where the cable
and thimble pass through. And of course you have to match a right hand
thread with a left hand thread for opposite ends. It was a head
scratcher and I think I ended up with a few extra parts before I got it
right. I assume the turnbuckle size is matched to the cable diameter for
strength.

The light bulb finally went on yesterday in regards to aileron trim.
When I'm flying solo I have a noticeably heavy left wing even with extra
gas in the right tank. The thing is that if I hold the flaperons
perfectly faired with the wing, the plane flies straight and true. If I
let go of the stick the right aileron drops a bit from faired and the
right wing rises. Finally realized that if I close the throttle and let
go of the stick, the plane again flies straight and true again. I'll
bet anyone out there with a couterclockwise rotating prop (seen from the
cockpit) has a heavy right wing... Some of it may be torque but I think
this is a characteristic of flaperons where the propwash helix is
deflecting the flap(eron) near the fuselage. My prop rotates the
American way - clockwise as seen from the cockpit.
Ken

Ted Waltman wrote:

Going to order two turnbuckle assemblies today. Thought it would be an

easy

process <sigh>.



I'm looking on-line at Aircraft Spruce & Wicks (better drawings) at the
admittedly bewildering variety of turnbuckle assemblies and part #'s.



http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/pr ... index.html



Hopefully someone can save me a whole lot of heavy-duty head scratching.
These will be used for my rudder cables.



. Since turnbuckles come in a variety of strength ratings, how
strong is strong enough for the rudder cable assembly

. When would one use an AN-165 pin eye versus an AN-170 Cable-Eye
versus an AN-161 Turnbuckle Fork?

. What are the pro/cons of simply attaching the cable with a

thimble

through the eyebolt of the turnbuckle (e.g. AN-170 cable eye) versus using
an AN-161 turnbuckle fork on one end

. Will an AN-111-4 cable bushing will fit between the tines of an
AN-161 turnbuckle fork?



Geesh, science project <grin>



Thank you for your input!



Ted Waltman

---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:06:05 -0700
From: rshannon@cruzcom.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Turnbuckles and right wing heaviness

Clearly, one more reason for a jet! :-)

Ron


On 3/16/08, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

... Some of it may be torque but I think
this is a characteristic of flaperons where the propwash helix is
deflecting the flap(eron) near the fuselage. My prop rotates the
American way - clockwise as seen from the cockpit.
Ken

---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:06:44 -0600
From: tedwaltman@i1ci.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Moose extended baggage area

I posted 3 pictures of my extended baggage area between bulkheads C to E
(Area 109-S/M Interior). Pics show additional channels in floor (added
something like 20 two-inch tall channels on the floor and sides to support
the corner wraps and flooring). Channels are out of 0.036 2024 T3. Floor
is 0.040 6061 T6. I probably over did the nut-plates, as I put in a
nut-plate every 3" on the channels and on the floor-edge of the corner
wraps.



I still have to run the elevator and rudder cables which will be float until
aft of bulkhead E. At that point I'll put in pulleys for each to allow the
cables to go up to the existing elevator pulleys at H (will add two new
pulleys at H for the rudder cables). More pics on that when I get that done
shortyly.



Ted


----------




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[Richard Arnold]

I 'm not building a Murphy Rebel but rather I'm the proud owner of a
Renegade kit that has been under construction for about 10 years and is
about 70% complete. It has a Rotec 2800 radial engine mounted as a power
source.
I'd like to learn of other builders in my area and if there's a "Builders
Club" with whom I can share ideas.



Sincerely,
Richard Arnold
Proprietor
ARNOLD ESTATES
Log Cabin & Equestrian Resort
3459 Arnold Estate Parkway
Sevierville, TN 37876
865-429-8259
800--969-4504
Richard@arnoldestates.com
www.arnoldestates.com






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[indabush]

Hi Jean,

I posted a picture of my firewall.
https://www.dcsol.com/code/html-fdnld?f ... no=1218816
The battery is behind the baggage compartment.

Mike, C-FNBO

---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 12:04:09 -0500
From: jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Pictures...

Hello

If some of you have pictures of firewall lay-out (cabin heat box,
battery,
gascolator, cables brackets, soleinoid, etc) I try to figure best place
for everything?

A merry Christmas and happy New Year to everyone of you and to your
family.
I hope to meet a lot of you at Sun?fun or at the next ?East Rebel Ramble?.

Jean
Rebel 747R








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[BAsher]

I have the landing gear off my 2009 Murphy Elite for sale for $200 plus
shipping. . There is a total time of about 200 hours. I have photos I can
email. I am located in western NY. Respond to basher@rochester.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6

1 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 09:31:50 -0400
From : leinadair@sympatico.ca
Subject: Master Lever Switch problems

2 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:01:14 +0100
From : admin@airnig.co.uk
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

3 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:46:02 +0000
From : kelly@tru-form.ca
Subject: Brake lines (Moose)

4 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 12:58:34 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

5 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:35:48 +0000
From : kelly@tru-form.ca
Subject: Firewall rivets

6 Date : Sat, 31 Jul 2010 15:25:07 -0700 (PDT)
From : verticalperformance@yahoo.com
Subject: Rebel on 1800's POH


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 09:31:50 -0400
From: leinadair@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Master Lever Switch problems

Lately (on startup from Niagara Falls Intl. NY) My Rebel Amphibian Master
(lever/toggle switch) would not engage unless I move the lever/toggle
ever so slightly down or up.

It definitely needs replacement as I fear over time the contacts inside
the switch may have began to burn out with use. I have flown over 100 hrs
since I bought the A/C over a year ago. The A/C now has a total of 320
hrs.

I believe the Master is a SPST (ON/OFF) . I reached behind the panel and
found/felt only one heavy wire connected to the Master switch. The switch
body is definitely larger than all other lever/toggle switches. I believe
this switch completes the Ground (negative) circuit to the Solenoid relay
which then energizes the (HOT) side of the bus? The other terminal has no
leads coming out and must somehow be the ground to the BUS through the
switch body ?

Master Breaker is rated for 35 amps. Aircraft Spruce has a Lever switch
rated at 20 amps for 12/24 volts and looks sturdy enough.

Any advice ?, Do I really need a 35 amps (or more) rated switch? If so
where can I find one ?. Will a good 20 amp switch do the trick? Would it
be better that the switch have the same military specification as the
certified airplanes? Or does it really matter?

Regards

Dan (0178 R) GGNB


---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:01:14 +0100
From: admin@airnig.co.uk
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

Hi Dan

I agree the switch should be replaced.

I would however expect the switch to have 2 contacts minimum. It is very
unlikely to have the mounting lug as a ground connection - never seen one
like that anywhere.

I would expect the switch to be carrying only the solenoid operating
current, and that will be a lot less than 35 amps :-)

Nig
745E



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
leinadair
Sent: 31 July 2010 14:32
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

Lately (on startup from Niagara Falls Intl. NY) My Rebel Amphibian Master
(lever/toggle switch) would not engage unless I move the lever/toggle
ever
so slightly down or up.

It definitely needs replacement as I fear over time the contacts inside
the
switch may have began to burn out with use. I have flown over 100 hrs
since
I bought the A/C over a year ago. The A/C now has a total of 320 hrs.

I believe the Master is a SPST (ON/OFF) . I reached behind the panel and
found/felt only one heavy wire connected to the Master switch. The switch
body is definitely larger than all other lever/toggle switches. I believe
this switch completes the Ground (negative) circuit to the Solenoid relay
which then energizes the (HOT) side of the bus? The other terminal has no
leads coming out and must somehow be the ground to the BUS through the
switch body ?

Master Breaker is rated for 35 amps. Aircraft Spruce has a Lever switch
rated at 20 amps for 12/24 volts and looks sturdy enough.

Any advice ?, Do I really need a 35 amps (or more) rated switch? If so
where
can I find one ?. Will a good 20 amp switch do the trick? Would it be
better that the switch have the same military specification as the
certified
airplanes? Or does it really matter?

Regards

Dan (0178 R) GGNB




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-----------------------------------------------------------------




---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:46:02 +0000
From: kelly@tru-form.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Brake lines (Moose)

Hi all, how are the brakes lines being fastened to the gear legs? Or are
they? I want to start running the bake lines up the gear legs, but can't
picture exactly how to do it?

Thank
Kelly (Moose )
kelly@tru-form.ca
Enjoy your day !


---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 12:58:34 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

Dan

If the switch is grounded to the panel that could be the issue right
there. Properly rated switches in aircraft usually suffer from corrosion
issues long before contact failure.

If there is a battery contactor it will not draw more than an amp
however there should be a diode across the coil or across the switch to
prevent arcing at the switch contacts when it is turned off. Almost any
switch would last almost forever with the diode.

Some aircraft are wired with a heavy switch instead of a battery
contactor though which implies a heavy wire compared to using a
contactor. At least 10 awg and preferably 8awg as opposed to the typical
22awg for grounding a solenoid. If that is your situation with only one
heavy wire then yes you need a 35amp or higher rated switch. However
that implies the switch grounds the battery and the starter is grounded
separately which would be a dangerous system from almost any
perspective. ie any positive wire will always be a fire risk if it
grounds to the airframe even when the master switch is off. You would
not have the ability to kill power to it unless you have a master
solenoid or a master (200 amp) switch. The point of a battery
contactor/switch is to kill all non essential power. If your system is
really as you describe, I would strongly suggest that you rewire the
master switch with two wires to cut +12 volt power to everything.
Everthing else would be permanently grounded as per every other aircraft
that I'm aware of.

Ken

N.Smith wrote:

Hi Dan

I agree the switch should be replaced.

I would however expect the switch to have 2 contacts minimum. It is very
unlikely to have the mounting lug as a ground connection - never seen one
like that anywhere.

I would expect the switch to be carrying only the solenoid operating
current, and that will be a lot less than 35 amps :-)

Nig
745E



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
leinadair
Sent: 31 July 2010 14:32
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Master Lever Switch problems

Lately (on startup from Niagara Falls Intl. NY) My Rebel Amphibian Master
(lever/toggle switch) would not engage unless I move the lever/toggle
ever
so slightly down or up.

It definitely needs replacement as I fear over time the contacts inside
the
switch may have began to burn out with use. I have flown over 100 hrs
since
I bought the A/C over a year ago. The A/C now has a total of 320 hrs.

I believe the Master is a SPST (ON/OFF) . I reached behind the panel and
found/felt only one heavy wire connected to the Master switch. The switch
body is definitely larger than all other lever/toggle switches. I believe
this switch completes the Ground (negative) circuit to the Solenoid relay
which then energizes the (HOT) side of the bus? The other terminal has no
leads coming out and must somehow be the ground to the BUS through the
switch body ?

Master Breaker is rated for 35 amps. Aircraft Spruce has a Lever switch
rated at 20 amps for 12/24 volts and looks sturdy enough.

Any advice ?, Do I really need a 35 amps (or more) rated switch? If so
where
can I find one ?. Will a good 20 amp switch do the trick? Would it be
better that the switch have the same military specification as the
certified
airplanes? Or does it really matter?

Regards

Dan (0178 R) GGNB




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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:35:48 +0000
From: kelly@tru-form.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Firewall rivets

Looking to find out if the firewall rivets should be stainless or aluminum
rivets

Thanks
Kelly ( Moose )
kelly@tru-form.ca
Enjoy your day !


---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 15:25:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: verticalperformance@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Rebel on 1800's POH

Does any one have a POH for wen the Rebel is on 1800 floats. Is there such
a thing. I'm not sure of the CG range when on floats.

Andrew E Burr XIV

Vertical performance LLc

Po Box 213

Cassville MO 65625



VPHelo, LLc has paid for the design and engineering for every component
and holds ownership of all intellectual property for each component.



----------




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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3042 - Release Date: 07/31/10
14:34:00




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[Ron Stahla]

To those of you who responded to the fiberglass tail wheel wheel spring I say thanks. My experience with fiberglass is simular to Bob Patterson's. I will work up a layup that will work for us. Fibeglass is much easier to work re-work and modify to make work than steel or aluminum. Any pictures or experiences will help.
Thank you,

Ron Stahla 399R

Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:00:05 -0800
From: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
To: rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 3

1 Date : Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:22:36 -0500
From : tjhickey@iowatelecom.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

2 Date : Fri, 24 Sep 2010 22:25:23 -0600
From : khipp@99victor.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

3 Date : Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:08:15 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 19:22:36 -0500
From: tjhickey@iowatelecom.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us some further
information on the springs you are using? Size, source, etc.?

Tim Hickey
Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf
spring]

The aluminum spring on my early model rebel had absolutely zero bounce to
it. I modified a couple steel leaf springs and after a little trial and
error, I have a 1000% improvement. Between the forgiving bungees and the
new tailwheel spring, I am confident I can land on really crappy terrain
with no airframe damage.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 9:54, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:

Hi Marc !

The composite tailspring was standard for many years.
I really like them - have used them on all 4 of our Rebels.
You might have to cut a bit off the back end to get the
tailwheel angle right - some of them were made too long ...

Prefer them to the aluminum chunk - which can work IF you
grind/mill it to taper to half thickness at back end - or the
steel springs, which just snap at some point. The fiberglass
has a benign failure mode - it just delaminates. This is easy
to see in a pre-flight, and can be field-repaired by drilling a
hole in the center, and bolting a plate on top & bottom,
to get you home.... (flew one that way for over a month,
waiting to find a new one..)

Of course, others have different preferences, and YMMV ! ;-)

--

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson


Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender
and do not necessarily reflect the views of any other entities or
persons.
Any action taken as a result of the contents of this email is totally the
responsibility of the reader.


On September 24, 2010 04:41:54 am Marc & Janine wrote:
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---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 22:25:23 -0600
From: khipp@99victor.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

Northern tool sells a trailer spring for about $19. There are two leaves.I cut the main leaf to replicate the existing aluminum leaf and cut the secondary leaf to fit between the mounting blocks and the tailwheel. Shims need to be added in the mount assembly to make up the difference in the thickness of the aluminum leaf and the steel leaf. You need to use a press to put more bend in the leafs to more closely match the old leaf. I added a little extra bend for more ground clearance. Make sure the bends are made so the tailwheel rotating surface is parallel to the ground fore and aft. Make the bends before cutting the leafs to length as it is easier to fixture them in the press.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 18:22, "Tim Hickey" <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net> wrote:

Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us some further
information on the springs you are using? Size, source, etc.?

Tim Hickey
Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf
spring]

The aluminum spring on my early model rebel had absolutely zero bounce to
it. I modified a couple steel leaf springs and after a little trial and
error, I have a 1000% improvement. Between the forgiving bungees and the
new tailwheel spring, I am confident I can land on really crappy terrain
with no airframe damage.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 9:54, Bob Patterson <bobp@prosumers.ca> wrote:

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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:08:15 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders tail spring

I'd suggest using 3 leafs if they are the 1/4" x 1 3/4" leafs unless you
have a light airplane. Two leaves were as soft as the fibreglass spring
but I consistently find that two leaves sag a bit after a few hundred
landings. That's when the wheel shimmy starts on my machine. Clamping
them firmly together will increase the torsional rigidity which also
reduces shimmy.
Ken

Khipp wrote:

Northern tool sells a trailer spring for about $19. There are two
leaves.I cut the main leaf to replicate the existing aluminum leaf
and cut the secondary leaf to fit between the mounting blocks and the
tailwheel. Shims need to be added in the mount assembly to make up
the difference in the thickness of the aluminum leaf and the steel
leaf. You need to use a press to put more bend in the leafs to more
closely match the old leaf. I added a little extra bend for more
ground clearance. Make sure the bends are made so the tailwheel
rotating surface is parallel to the ground fore and aft. Make the
bends before cutting the leafs to length as it is easier to fixture
them in the press.

Karl

On Sep 24, 2010, at 18:22, "Tim Hickey" <tjhickey@iowatelecom.net>
wrote:

Hello, Karl:

For my, and others, information for future use, can you give us
some further information on the springs you are using? Size,
source, etc.?

Tim Hickey Rebel builder at times.


----- Original Message ----- From: "Khipp" <khipp@99victor.com> To:
<rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Cc: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com> Sent:
Friday, September 24, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]
RE: [rebel-builders fiberglass tail wheel leaf spring]

----------




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