The Murphy Builders Site

I've looked at the photos in the files, and have followed this recent discussion. Thanks
again to all. I have a few things on which I'd love to hear a few opinions...
1) If an inboard bracket on the outboard rib were used to prevent rib rotation (without the
pie shaped doublers), would the need for the rib reinforcement doubler (as shown in Files-
ELEVATOR SKIN-RIBSB6 jpg.photo), be eliminated?
2) Any recommendations on the shape of said inboard bracket? Thickness?
Alan



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alan.thompson@dcsol.com wrote:

I've looked at the photos in the files, and have followed this recent discussion. Thanks
again to all. I have a few things on which I'd love to hear a few opinions...
1) If an inboard bracket on the outboard rib were used to prevent rib rotation (without the
pie shaped doublers), would the need for the rib reinforcement doubler (as shown in Files-
ELEVATOR SKIN-RIBSB6 jpg.photo), be eliminated?

I did not put an outboard doubler on mine. An outboard one can't hurt
but I figured it was only needed if the rib was already cracked.

2) Any recommendations on the shape of said inboard bracket? Thickness?
Alan

I used a simple angle piece, probably 0.032, only one bend in it.
Ken




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Thanks Ken,
Do You think that with a good bracket I can avoid doubling the spar end of the outboard rib?
Alan



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Hi Alan
All I can tell you is that yes that was my conclusion. An inboard
bracket from the rib to the spar with no outboard doubler. I did add the
pie shaped skin doublers but I think the inboard bracket is the most
important part of this.
Ken

alan.thompson@dcsol.com wrote:

Thanks Ken,
Do You think that with a good bracket I can avoid doubling the spar end of the outboard rib?
Alan

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