Page 1 of 1

Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Jesse Jenks
I found some discussion in the archives about moving the rear float fitting
forward to the rear door post bulkhead. Was that just for Montana floats
and/or Elites, or is this something I should consider for the Rebel? It
seems like it was all because the rear float spreader is too far aft and can
contact the water, so there have been mods done to Montana floats to move
the spreader and rear struts forward, necessitating the movement of the
attach point in the fuselage. I plan to use MAM 1800s, which also apparently
have the same tendency for the spreader to hit the water. Has anyone moved
the spreader on MAM floats, and is this something I should consider, or just
go with the stock float fitting/strut/spreader location.
Thanks
Jesse





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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
Sure now you bring that up after I made the rear attach/spreader bulkheads
today...could have moved the darn things forward! But then they wouldn't fit
the existing attach gear that I have..so nah!

You could order a couple extra full size FL15-C bulkheads and then double
the LG (rear bulkhead for gear well) bulkhead for the stub and spreader bar
attachements. You'd just have to be careful while forming the LG bulkhead
(ie: adjust from manual dimensions to form bottom flanges) as you would need
to turn the flanges around to face forward so you could double it with the
extra bulkhead for stub attachments. The flat face of the bulkhead would
remain stationary to form the gear well...but this would move the flange
position about 3/4" forward when it comes to rivet hole postion on the skins
and top deck...so could get fun....but VERY doable if you feel the need to
deviate.

I know by take-off feel I've dunked the rear spreader a few times. The trick
is to get moving first and then pull the stick back to start the transistion
to the step. If you go around the lake doing plow turns...it's definitely
dunked.

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: Rebel rear float attach point

I found some discussion in the archives about moving the rear float
fitting
forward to the rear door post bulkhead. Was that just for Montana floats
and/or Elites, or is this something I should consider for the Rebel? It
seems like it was all because the rear float spreader is too far aft and
can
contact the water, so there have been mods done to Montana floats to move
the spreader and rear struts forward, necessitating the movement of the
attach point in the fuselage. I plan to use MAM 1800s, which also
apparently
have the same tendency for the spreader to hit the water. Has anyone moved
the spreader on MAM floats, and is this something I should consider, or
just
go with the stock float fitting/strut/spreader location.
Thanks
Jesse





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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Well thanks for the instructions Wayne, but I guess you said it best
yourself..nah! I will let someone else be the pioneer of that one. If it's
only an occasional nuisance then I guess I'll go stock, and it sounds like
overall, people are very happy with the MAM floats. Also, by doing that kind
of mod you would mary one plane and one pair of floats for life, and if I
had to sell before building the floats it would be hard to justify to a
potential buyer.

On the attach point topic though, the manual has you join the upper legs of
the doubled "A" float attach bulkheads by simply bending the aft facing one
to meet the other one and riveting at the top. Why not just leave the 1/4"
space between them like along the bottoms? It seems like you will end up
with unsightly converging rivet lines on the side skins if you do it their
way, and it doesn't seem structurally necessary to join them.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:36:17 -0500

Sure now you bring that up after I made the rear attach/spreader bulkheads
today...could have moved the darn things forward! But then they wouldn't
fit
the existing attach gear that I have..so nah!

You could order a couple extra full size FL15-C bulkheads and then double
the LG (rear bulkhead for gear well) bulkhead for the stub and spreader bar
attachements. You'd just have to be careful while forming the LG bulkhead
(ie: adjust from manual dimensions to form bottom flanges) as you would
need
to turn the flanges around to face forward so you could double it with the
extra bulkhead for stub attachments. The flat face of the bulkhead would
remain stationary to form the gear well...but this would move the flange
position about 3/4" forward when it comes to rivet hole postion on the
skins
and top deck...so could get fun....but VERY doable if you feel the need to
deviate.

I know by take-off feel I've dunked the rear spreader a few times. The
trick
is to get moving first and then pull the stick back to start the
transistion
to the step. If you go around the lake doing plow turns...it's definitely
dunked.

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: Rebel rear float attach point

I found some discussion in the archives about moving the rear float
fitting
forward to the rear door post bulkhead. Was that just for Montana floats
and/or Elites, or is this something I should consider for the Rebel? It
seems like it was all because the rear float spreader is too far aft and
can
contact the water, so there have been mods done to Montana floats to
move
the spreader and rear struts forward, necessitating the movement of the
attach point in the fuselage. I plan to use MAM 1800s, which also
apparently
have the same tendency for the spreader to hit the water. Has anyone
moved
the spreader on MAM floats, and is this something I should consider, or
just
go with the stock float fitting/strut/spreader location.
Thanks
Jesse





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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
You are going to join them with a strip on the inside anyhow. I doubt the
few rivets at the top if you.... as you said.... bend the aft one forward
and rivet at the top. Either way is fine. I've done it both ways...just
watch before your drill things for where the angle channel goes across
Fus-24 and comes against the double bulkheads so you can combine some rivet
holes on the double bulkhead area.

Also if you want to avoid the converging rivet lines. Start tighter to the
bulkhead flange base near the bottom and then you'll be slightly off center
towards the open edge of the flange by the top of it if you make the holes
parallel to the original bulkhead rivets.

Choice is yours!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Well thanks for the instructions Wayne, but I guess you said it best
yourself..nah! I will let someone else be the pioneer of that one. If it's
only an occasional nuisance then I guess I'll go stock, and it sounds like
overall, people are very happy with the MAM floats. Also, by doing that
kind
of mod you would mary one plane and one pair of floats for life, and if I
had to sell before building the floats it would be hard to justify to a
potential buyer.

On the attach point topic though, the manual has you join the upper legs
of
the doubled "A" float attach bulkheads by simply bending the aft facing
one
to meet the other one and riveting at the top. Why not just leave the 1/4"
space between them like along the bottoms? It seems like you will end up
with unsightly converging rivet lines on the side skins if you do it their
way, and it doesn't seem structurally necessary to join them.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:36:17 -0500

Sure now you bring that up after I made the rear attach/spreader
bulkheads
today...could have moved the darn things forward! But then they wouldn't
fit
the existing attach gear that I have..so nah!

You could order a couple extra full size FL15-C bulkheads and then double
the LG (rear bulkhead for gear well) bulkhead for the stub and spreader
bar
attachements. You'd just have to be careful while forming the LG bulkhead
(ie: adjust from manual dimensions to form bottom flanges) as you would
need
to turn the flanges around to face forward so you could double it with
the
extra bulkhead for stub attachments. The flat face of the bulkhead would
remain stationary to form the gear well...but this would move the flange
position about 3/4" forward when it comes to rivet hole postion on the
skins
and top deck...so could get fun....but VERY doable if you feel the need
to
deviate.

I know by take-off feel I've dunked the rear spreader a few times. The
trick
is to get moving first and then pull the stick back to start the
transistion
to the step. If you go around the lake doing plow turns...it's definitely
dunked.

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: Rebel rear float attach point

I found some discussion in the archives about moving the rear float
fitting
forward to the rear door post bulkhead. Was that just for Montana
floats
and/or Elites, or is this something I should consider for the Rebel?
It
seems like it was all because the rear float spreader is too far aft
and
can
contact the water, so there have been mods done to Montana floats to
move
the spreader and rear struts forward, necessitating the movement of
the
attach point in the fuselage. I plan to use MAM 1800s, which also
apparently
have the same tendency for the spreader to hit the water. Has anyone
moved
the spreader on MAM floats, and is this something I should consider,
or
just
go with the stock float fitting/strut/spreader location.
Thanks
Jesse





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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
I meant to say "I doubt the few rivets at the top if you.... as you said....
bend the aft one forward and rivet at the top" will add any strength beyond
the riveted strips and outside panel riveting.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

You are going to join them with a strip on the inside anyhow. I doubt the
few rivets at the top if you.... as you said.... bend the aft one forward
and rivet at the top. Either way is fine. I've done it both ways...just
watch before your drill things for where the angle channel goes across
Fus-24 and comes against the double bulkheads so you can combine some
rivet
holes on the double bulkhead area.

Also if you want to avoid the converging rivet lines. Start tighter to the
bulkhead flange base near the bottom and then you'll be slightly off
center
towards the open edge of the flange by the top of it if you make the holes
parallel to the original bulkhead rivets.

Choice is yours!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Well thanks for the instructions Wayne, but I guess you said it best
yourself..nah! I will let someone else be the pioneer of that one. If
it's
only an occasional nuisance then I guess I'll go stock, and it sounds
like
overall, people are very happy with the MAM floats. Also, by doing that
kind
of mod you would mary one plane and one pair of floats for life, and if
I
had to sell before building the floats it would be hard to justify to a
potential buyer.

On the attach point topic though, the manual has you join the upper legs
of
the doubled "A" float attach bulkheads by simply bending the aft facing
one
to meet the other one and riveting at the top. Why not just leave the
1/4"
space between them like along the bottoms? It seems like you will end up
with unsightly converging rivet lines on the side skins if you do it
their
way, and it doesn't seem structurally necessary to join them.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:36:17 -0500

Sure now you bring that up after I made the rear attach/spreader
bulkheads
today...could have moved the darn things forward! But then they
wouldn't
fit
the existing attach gear that I have..so nah!

You could order a couple extra full size FL15-C bulkheads and then
double
the LG (rear bulkhead for gear well) bulkhead for the stub and spreader
bar
attachements. You'd just have to be careful while forming the LG
bulkhead
(ie: adjust from manual dimensions to form bottom flanges) as you would
need
to turn the flanges around to face forward so you could double it with
the
extra bulkhead for stub attachments. The flat face of the bulkhead
would
remain stationary to form the gear well...but this would move the
flange
position about 3/4" forward when it comes to rivet hole postion on the
skins
and top deck...so could get fun....but VERY doable if you feel the need
to
deviate.

I know by take-off feel I've dunked the rear spreader a few times. The
trick
is to get moving first and then pull the stick back to start the
transistion
to the step. If you go around the lake doing plow turns...it's
definitely
dunked.

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: Rebel rear float attach point

fitting
floats
It
and
can move
the
apparently moved
or
just



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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Thank's Wayne,
Was there any other gotchas with the float fittings? I thought I remember
something you said a while back about alignment or something to do with
measuring how far they protrude from the skin.
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 22:59:20 -0500

I meant to say "I doubt the few rivets at the top if you.... as you
said....
bend the aft one forward and rivet at the top" will add any strength beyond
the riveted strips and outside panel riveting.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

You are going to join them with a strip on the inside anyhow. I doubt
the
few rivets at the top if you.... as you said.... bend the aft one
forward
and rivet at the top. Either way is fine. I've done it both ways...just
watch before your drill things for where the angle channel goes across
Fus-24 and comes against the double bulkheads so you can combine some
rivet
holes on the double bulkhead area.

Also if you want to avoid the converging rivet lines. Start tighter to
the
bulkhead flange base near the bottom and then you'll be slightly off
center
towards the open edge of the flange by the top of it if you make the
holes
parallel to the original bulkhead rivets.

Choice is yours!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Well thanks for the instructions Wayne, but I guess you said it best
yourself..nah! I will let someone else be the pioneer of that one. If
it's
only an occasional nuisance then I guess I'll go stock, and it sounds
like
overall, people are very happy with the MAM floats. Also, by doing
that
kind
of mod you would mary one plane and one pair of floats for life, and
if
I
had to sell before building the floats it would be hard to justify to
a
potential buyer.

On the attach point topic though, the manual has you join the upper
legs
of
the doubled "A" float attach bulkheads by simply bending the aft
facing
one
to meet the other one and riveting at the top. Why not just leave the
1/4"
space between them like along the bottoms? It seems like you will end
up
with unsightly converging rivet lines on the side skins if you do it
their
way, and it doesn't seem structurally necessary to join them.
Jesse

bulkheads
wouldn't
double
spreader
bar
bulkhead
would
with
the
would
flange
the
need
to
The
definitely
float
floats
Rebel?
It
aft
and
to
of
the
anyone
consider,
or



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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Walter Klatt
You might want to add those doublers to strengthen the bulkheads at the rear
float attachment points. The Elite manual has them, but not the Rebel.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 9:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point


Thank's Wayne,
Was there any other gotchas with the float fittings? I thought I remember
something you said a while back about alignment or something to do with
measuring how far they protrude from the skin.
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 22:59:20 -0500

I meant to say "I doubt the few rivets at the top if you.... as you
said....
bend the aft one forward and rivet at the top" will add any strength beyond
the riveted strips and outside panel riveting.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

You are going to join them with a strip on the inside anyhow. I doubt
the
few rivets at the top if you.... as you said.... bend the aft one
forward
and rivet at the top. Either way is fine. I've done it both ways...just
watch before your drill things for where the angle channel goes across
Fus-24 and comes against the double bulkheads so you can combine some
rivet
holes on the double bulkhead area.

Also if you want to avoid the converging rivet lines. Start tighter to
the
bulkhead flange base near the bottom and then you'll be slightly off
center
towards the open edge of the flange by the top of it if you make the
holes
parallel to the original bulkhead rivets.

Choice is yours!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Well thanks for the instructions Wayne, but I guess you said it best
yourself..nah! I will let someone else be the pioneer of that one. If
it's
only an occasional nuisance then I guess I'll go stock, and it sounds
like
overall, people are very happy with the MAM floats. Also, by doing
that
kind
of mod you would mary one plane and one pair of floats for life, and
if
I
had to sell before building the floats it would be hard to justify to
a
potential buyer.

On the attach point topic though, the manual has you join the upper
legs
of
the doubled "A" float attach bulkheads by simply bending the aft
facing
one
to meet the other one and riveting at the top. Why not just leave the
1/4"
space between them like along the bottoms? It seems like you will end
up
with unsightly converging rivet lines on the side skins if you do it
their
way, and it doesn't seem structurally necessary to join them.
Jesse

bulkheads
wouldn't
double
spreader
bar
bulkhead
would
with
the
would
flange
the
need
to
The
definitely
float
floats
Rebel?
It
aft
and
to
of
the
anyone
consider,
or



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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
I think I brought the distance issue up when I got the new float hard points
from MAM, that I included in your kit, as I'd borrow the old ones from the
kit for Howard's rebuild. They made the attach point out further so they
could use the part universally with the Elite and the Rebel. Your's should
just be a matter of being sure you are centered on the bulhead and you're
good to go. As Walter pointed out a .063 doubler is a good idea extending
beyond the 1/2 circle cut outs in both directions on one of the double
bulkheads to avoid skin compression damage at the 1/2 circle cut out area
from less than perfect/high sea landings. I don't remember if I took the
time to include two of such a beast in your kit...I don't think so! :o(

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Thank's Wayne,
Was there any other gotchas with the float fittings? I thought I remember
something you said a while back about alignment or something to do with
measuring how far they protrude from the skin.
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 22:59:20 -0500

I meant to say "I doubt the few rivets at the top if you.... as you
said....
bend the aft one forward and rivet at the top" will add any strength
beyond
the riveted strips and outside panel riveting.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

You are going to join them with a strip on the inside anyhow. I doubt
the
few rivets at the top if you.... as you said.... bend the aft one
forward
and rivet at the top. Either way is fine. I've done it both
ways...just
watch before your drill things for where the angle channel goes across
Fus-24 and comes against the double bulkheads so you can combine some
rivet
holes on the double bulkhead area.

Also if you want to avoid the converging rivet lines. Start tighter to
the
bulkhead flange base near the bottom and then you'll be slightly off
center
towards the open edge of the flange by the top of it if you make the
holes
parallel to the original bulkhead rivets.

Choice is yours!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

If
it's
sounds
like
that
kind
if
I
to
a
legs
of
facing
one
the
1/4"
end
up
their
bulkheads
wouldn't
double
spreader
bar
bulkhead
would
with
the
would
flange
the
need
to
The
definitely
float
Montana
floats
Rebel?
It
aft
and
floats
to
of
the
also
anyone
consider,
or
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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Thanks Wayne and Walter,
I will come up with a doubler for the bulkheads. I may have the right size
stock in my scrap bin, or maybe an .032 piece on each side?
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:26:41 -0500

I think I brought the distance issue up when I got the new float hard
points
from MAM, that I included in your kit, as I'd borrow the old ones from the
kit for Howard's rebuild. They made the attach point out further so they
could use the part universally with the Elite and the Rebel. Your's should
just be a matter of being sure you are centered on the bulhead and you're
good to go. As Walter pointed out a .063 doubler is a good idea extending
beyond the 1/2 circle cut outs in both directions on one of the double
bulkheads to avoid skin compression damage at the 1/2 circle cut out area
from less than perfect/high sea landings. I don't remember if I took the
time to include two of such a beast in your kit...I don't think so! :o(

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Thank's Wayne,
Was there any other gotchas with the float fittings? I thought I
remember
something you said a while back about alignment or something to do with
measuring how far they protrude from the skin.
Jesse



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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
What you need is something thick enough to keep the weakened area at the 1/2
circle cutout from deforming/buckling. Don't think .032 is going to cut it.
I think the Elite doublers MAM supplies are .040 but dont' know that for
sure.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Thanks Wayne and Walter,
I will come up with a doubler for the bulkheads. I may have the right size
stock in my scrap bin, or maybe an .032 piece on each side?
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:26:41 -0500

I think I brought the distance issue up when I got the new float hard
points
from MAM, that I included in your kit, as I'd borrow the old ones from
the
kit for Howard's rebuild. They made the attach point out further so they
could use the part universally with the Elite and the Rebel. Your's
should
just be a matter of being sure you are centered on the bulhead and you're
good to go. As Walter pointed out a .063 doubler is a good idea extending
beyond the 1/2 circle cut outs in both directions on one of the double
bulkheads to avoid skin compression damage at the 1/2 circle cut out area
from less than perfect/high sea landings. I don't remember if I took the
time to include two of such a beast in your kit...I don't think so! :o(

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Thank's Wayne,
Was there any other gotchas with the float fittings? I thought I
remember
something you said a while back about alignment or something to do
with
measuring how far they protrude from the skin.
Jesse



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Rebel rear float attach point

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Ok, well I know I have some thicker stuff too so I'll use that.
Thanks

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 19:37:28 -0500

What you need is something thick enough to keep the weakened area at the
1/2
circle cutout from deforming/buckling. Don't think .032 is going to cut it.
I think the Elite doublers MAM supplies are .040 but dont' know that for
sure.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

Thanks Wayne and Walter,
I will come up with a doubler for the bulkheads. I may have the right
size
stock in my scrap bin, or maybe an .032 piece on each side?
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:26:41 -0500

I think I brought the distance issue up when I got the new float hard
points
from MAM, that I included in your kit, as I'd borrow the old ones from
the
kit for Howard's rebuild. They made the attach point out further so
they
could use the part universally with the Elite and the Rebel. Your's
should
just be a matter of being sure you are centered on the bulhead and
you're
good to go. As Walter pointed out a .063 doubler is a good idea
extending
beyond the 1/2 circle cut outs in both directions on one of the double
bulkheads to avoid skin compression damage at the 1/2 circle cut out
area
from less than perfect/high sea landings. I don't remember if I took
the
time to include two of such a beast in your kit...I don't think so! :o(

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel rear float attach point

remember
with



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