The Murphy Builders Site

G'day

I have started construction on the elevators (etc) and have come to that
"dimpling" part.
It all seems straight forward enough, except that I don't have a
dimpling tool or even know what one looks like.

I would be pleased if someone would please explain the process, and if I
have to buy a dimpling tool just what do I order and where can I buy
one.

Thanks

Ian Donaldson


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I got mine ,a very simple dimpling tool, from MAM as part of the basic tool
kit ( several hundreds of clecos of the required sizes, long drill bits and
other valuable tools are included). You can purchase it separetely at many other
places like Spruce, Wicks etc. and catalogues are available on their Web sites (
about 6 $ for the nails and the 2 male/female pieces to be used with a manual
rivet tool).
www.aircraft-spruce.com
www.wicks.com/aircraft
Ciao and keep on.

Francesco Simioni
Rebel 562




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Ian
Did Francesco answer your question? Dies that use a rivet gun or hammer are
available. However I use the ones that just use a pop riveting tool as the Rebel
doesn't need very many dimples. (about $5. as Francesco mentioned) Make sure you
get one for 120 degree avex rivets, not the more common 100 degree aircraft
rivet.
The heads pull off the nails that go through the two little dies and into the
pop rivet tool but I found some finishing nails that work for a while. Also the
hole in the aluminum gets stretched a little when you dimple it so if I
remember, I like to drill them a little smaller if I plan to dimple it.
Sometimes I use a 1/8" drill which is a few thou less than #30.
Ken

Ian Donaldson wrote:

It all seems straight forward enough, except that I don't have a
dimpling tool or even know what one looks like.
I would be pleased if someone would please explain the process, and if I
have to buy a dimpling tool just what do I order and where can I buy
one.
Thanks
Ian Donaldson

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You'll only need to dimple the ends of the leading edge where the fiberglass
corners go. The doublers in the middle get counter sunk. Off the top of my
head I think the 5/32 rivets get either a #20 or a #21. Most of the charts
I've seen call for a #20, but I used a #21 and still got the rivets in OK.
As for the dimpling tool, I just used the 2 disks that you pull with a nail
using a hand puller that Murphy includes in their tool kit.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Nielsenbe@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: dimpling

What is the best kind of dimpling tool to use? I am working on the

horizontal

stab and obviously I am just getting to the dimpling part. There are also
some areas in the 3500 doublers that call for counter sunk rivits. Do

these get

dimped or actually counter sunk. If it's dimpled...... that woud be .265
thickness(rear spar, and doubler, skin, two thick external "doublers")

that seems

like alot to dimple even if you do them seperatly. So I need some

suggestions on

what tool to get this done. One more thing....... what drill size do you

use

for the 5/32 rivits?

Thanks, Brad
SR222/3500

I hope someone has thier laptop at osh to respond........

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What is the best kind of dimpling tool to use? I am working on the horizontal
stab and obviously I am just getting to the dimpling part. There are also
some areas in the 3500 doublers that call for counter sunk rivits. Do these get
dimped or actually counter sunk. If it's dimpled...... that woud be .265
thickness(rear spar, and doubler, skin, two thick external "doublers") that seems
like alot to dimple even if you do them seperatly. So I need some suggestions on
what tool to get this done. One more thing....... what drill size do you use
for the 5/32 rivits?

Thanks, Brad
SR222/3500

I hope someone has thier laptop at osh to respond........



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I can see no text in your message.

Brad



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The 2 dies with a nail through the centre work OK but for dimpling near the
edge of a sheet I welded the dies to the jaws of a pair of vice grips this
really speeds things up. You can buy them already made from avery. Don't
drill to final size until after you dimple because the hole will stretch.
Drew

At 03:01 AM 8/3/2003 EDT, you wrote:

What is the best kind of dimpling tool to use? I am working on the

horizontal

stab and obviously I am just getting to the dimpling part. There are also
some areas in the 3500 doublers that call for counter sunk rivits. Do

these get

dimped or actually counter sunk. If it's dimpled...... that woud be .265
thickness(rear spar, and doubler, skin, two thick external "doublers")

that seems

like alot to dimple even if you do them seperatly. So I need some

suggestions on

what tool to get this done. One more thing....... what drill size do you use
for the 5/32 rivits?

Thanks, Brad
SR222/3500

I hope someone has thier laptop at osh to respond........



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Drew Dalgleish




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While on the subject of dimpling the horizontal stab., you might want to
install floating nut plates (for the inspection plates and trim mount) on
the ribs and skins "before" you rivet the skin on. The manual just seems
to rivet these plates on, but nutplates allow much easier removal for
inspection and or service.

Phil McGrogan
SR02QB

...... What is the best kind of dimpling tool to use? I am working on the

horizontal

stab and obviously .....
Thanks, Brad
SR222/3500

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Thanks for the tip. What size nut plates should I use? I will see about
ordering some. Thanks, Brad



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I am using a #6 Machine screw in stainless for attaching the plates. By
using a #6 nut plate jig, (about 30 bucks and really handy in speeding up
the drilling process) you can drill the attaching holes to #40 and use a
3/32 solid flush rivet, or you will have to get some 3/32 flush avex rivets.
The corners will take a special 90 degree nutplate. Just check the Aircraft
Spruce Catalogue for types. Remember to install the nutplates on the ribs
first so that you don't have to install through two thickness of metal (rib
and skin)


Phil McGrogan
SR032QB

.....Thanks for the tip. What size nut plates should I use? I will see

about
ordering some. Thanks, Brad









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I am resending this message as I didn't receive it back. If it is
duplicated for anyone I apologize.






I am using a #6 Machine screw in stainless for attaching the plates. By
using a #6 nut plate jig, (about 30 bucks and really handy in speeding up
the drilling process) you can drill the attaching holes to #40 and use a
3/32 solid flush rivet, or you will have to get some 3/32 flush avex rivets.
The corners will take a special 90 degree nutplate. Just check the Aircraft
Spruce Catalogue for types. Remember to install the nutplates on the ribs
first so that you don't have to install through two thickness of metal (rib
and skin)


Phil McGrogan
SR032QB

.....Thanks for the tip. What size nut plates should I use? I will see

about
ordering some. Thanks, Brad







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