O.K. got it figured out! Now; I am building a rebel on amphibs, and have both
kits ready to start. I will be doing the floats first, along with some
aircraft construction while waiting for sealants to set-up. One year, more or
less from start to finish ... haven't unpacked and inventoried yet, don't
start the clock. Questions: Move the firewall or not? Why and why not? I'll
be using a O-320 or light O-360. I am tall and want all available interior
room for the baggage/seat area in the rear. How about pro-seal vs. 3M5200 or
equivelant? Why not pro-seal everything? I have worked with epoxies on wooden
boats, and the "mess" can be dealt with ... set-up times may be another
story! I will be using solid rivets; double dimpled in most cases (on the
airframe and wings) Floats; we'll see. Seems to me that dimpled/dimpled with
pro-seal would make a very strong fastener.And .. 3M may be just as good!
Corrosion protection will be extensive as I will probably get it in the water
in the Bahamas and the keys! I know I am adding a lot of extra prep and rivet
work, but, but, but, I can't stop myself!
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new builder with questions.
new builder with questions.
HI ERIC
well i will be first to jump in on couple of your questions
first of all build it the way it was designed, the avex pulled rivets are
more than strong enough for the aircraft, using bucked rivets & dimpling is
very time consuming and totally not needed, there are also a lot of places
on a rebel where you cant do bucked rivets anyway, keep in mind there are
some mods to improve the week areas, eg all the Ontario mods !!
floats may be good for bucked rivets but again they are not designed for
them
all joints should have epoxy cromate between them for corrosion protection,
proseal is only needed in the tanks, as for 3m stuff i don't know but why
reinvent the wheel anyway
as for overall corrosion prevention you can spray or bush dilute epoxy
cromate or there are other chemicals, i used something called everbrite, its
a naphtha based liquid with dissolved nylon in it, very easy, fast and no
toxic to use, i highly recommend you check it out on web, forget web site
but search for everbrite and you should find it
as for firewall back 3", some do some don't, its open to questions, i did it
anyway, welcome and i suggest just build as the kit is meant to be or you
will never finish like some of us
regards
mike#007
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
eric.r@dcsol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:27 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: new builder with questions.
O.K. got it figured out! Now; I am building a rebel on amphibs, and have
both
kits ready to start. I will be doing the floats first, along with some
aircraft construction while waiting for sealants to set-up. One year, more
or
less from start to finish ... haven't unpacked and inventoried yet, don't
start the clock. Questions: Move the firewall or not? Why and why not? I'll
be using a O-320 or light O-360. I am tall and want all available interior
room for the baggage/seat area in the rear. How about pro-seal vs. 3M5200 or
equivelant? Why not pro-seal everything? I have worked with epoxies on
wooden
boats, and the "mess" can be dealt with ... set-up times may be another
story! I will be using solid rivets; double dimpled in most cases (on the
airframe and wings) Floats; we'll see. Seems to me that dimpled/dimpled with
pro-seal would make a very strong fastener.And .. 3M may be just as good!
Corrosion protection will be extensive as I will probably get it in the
water
in the Bahamas and the keys! I know I am adding a lot of extra prep and
rivet
work, but, but, but, I can't stop myself!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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well i will be first to jump in on couple of your questions
first of all build it the way it was designed, the avex pulled rivets are
more than strong enough for the aircraft, using bucked rivets & dimpling is
very time consuming and totally not needed, there are also a lot of places
on a rebel where you cant do bucked rivets anyway, keep in mind there are
some mods to improve the week areas, eg all the Ontario mods !!
floats may be good for bucked rivets but again they are not designed for
them
all joints should have epoxy cromate between them for corrosion protection,
proseal is only needed in the tanks, as for 3m stuff i don't know but why
reinvent the wheel anyway
as for overall corrosion prevention you can spray or bush dilute epoxy
cromate or there are other chemicals, i used something called everbrite, its
a naphtha based liquid with dissolved nylon in it, very easy, fast and no
toxic to use, i highly recommend you check it out on web, forget web site
but search for everbrite and you should find it
as for firewall back 3", some do some don't, its open to questions, i did it
anyway, welcome and i suggest just build as the kit is meant to be or you
will never finish like some of us
regards
mike#007
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
eric.r@dcsol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:27 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: new builder with questions.
O.K. got it figured out! Now; I am building a rebel on amphibs, and have
both
kits ready to start. I will be doing the floats first, along with some
aircraft construction while waiting for sealants to set-up. One year, more
or
less from start to finish ... haven't unpacked and inventoried yet, don't
start the clock. Questions: Move the firewall or not? Why and why not? I'll
be using a O-320 or light O-360. I am tall and want all available interior
room for the baggage/seat area in the rear. How about pro-seal vs. 3M5200 or
equivelant? Why not pro-seal everything? I have worked with epoxies on
wooden
boats, and the "mess" can be dealt with ... set-up times may be another
story! I will be using solid rivets; double dimpled in most cases (on the
airframe and wings) Floats; we'll see. Seems to me that dimpled/dimpled with
pro-seal would make a very strong fastener.And .. 3M may be just as good!
Corrosion protection will be extensive as I will probably get it in the
water
in the Bahamas and the keys! I know I am adding a lot of extra prep and
rivet
work, but, but, but, I can't stop myself!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
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List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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new builder with questions.
Good to see you took my advise and came here Eric.... and you already have
the rest of my answers...at least I assume you do as there was no reply back
:O(
Leave the firewall in original position.
BTW...the amphibs alone are ~500 building hours using avex tank rivets.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <eric.r@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:27 PM
Subject: new builder with questions.
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the rest of my answers...at least I assume you do as there was no reply back
:O(
Leave the firewall in original position.
BTW...the amphibs alone are ~500 building hours using avex tank rivets.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <eric.r@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:27 PM
Subject: new builder with questions.
bothO.K. got it figured out! Now; I am building a rebel on amphibs, and have
orkits ready to start. I will be doing the floats first, along with some
aircraft construction while waiting for sealants to set-up. One year, more
I'llless from start to finish ... haven't unpacked and inventoried yet, don't
start the clock. Questions: Move the firewall or not? Why and why not?
orbe using a O-320 or light O-360. I am tall and want all available interior
room for the baggage/seat area in the rear. How about pro-seal vs. 3M5200
woodenequivelant? Why not pro-seal everything? I have worked with epoxies on
withboats, and the "mess" can be dealt with ... set-up times may be another
story! I will be using solid rivets; double dimpled in most cases (on the
airframe and wings) Floats; we'll see. Seems to me that dimpled/dimpled
waterpro-seal would make a very strong fastener.And .. 3M may be just as good!
Corrosion protection will be extensive as I will probably get it in the
rivetin the Bahamas and the keys! I know I am adding a lot of extra prep and
work, but, but, but, I can't stop myself!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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