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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:37 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Could someone clarify the difference between pre and post desensitized
controls. How would I know which I have? I think the kit I got from Wayne is
#425.
I just spent 11 hours in the shop with only 2 five minute breaks for
bathroom and energy bars to close up my second tank. Hopefully I'm done with
Pro Seal. I'll find out in a few days I guess. I don't mind working with the
stuff, but cleaning up the skin around all those rivets takes forever. By
the way, I had 9 tank rivets that broke the mandrel about an inch proud as
described by others. These were from a batch ordered recently from MAM. I
had no problems with the ones I got from Wayne.
Thanks
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Elite: rudder pedals/stick
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 20:50:09 -0500

Mike...

Elite - Sticks cut down to 13.25" above the pivot bolt (so they just make
it
UNDER the panel in forward stick - 5" offset sticks - 18" of movement with
tape angled to meet the sticks head at each end of throw - stick slightly
forward in neutral elevator.

Rebel - pre desensitized controls (way I like'm) Sticks cut off a bit..but
with handle 16" long - 2" offset sticks - 15" of throw and no "jewel" crush
to get full up elevator. Stick vertical in neutral elevator

Rebel - post desensitized controls. Sticks 15" long (still don't hit panel
as original firewall position) - 5" offset - 18" of travel just like the
Elite. Stick slightly forward in elevator neutral. Jewels crushed on full
up
elevator and only 2" thick upholstery. You'd be singing soprano with Bob
P's
recommended seats!

With the Elite having the firewall 3 " back and of course the rudder pedals
back 3 ".... so the seating position 3 " further back (all in relation to
the carrythru).... unless you have really short legs....I don't see the
problem with your set up. Guess another option is to move the control
column
back if you want to keep a long stick and not hit the panel.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: Elite: rudder pedals/stick

If you get a chance someday that would be great. I will take all the
feed
back I can get.
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Elite: rudder pedals/stick

desensitized
controls...one post desensitized and an Elite for stick movement.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Elite: rudder pedals/stick

same
there
movement
on
with
for
any
movement.
Not
reports
I
I
and
then
legs
for
would
be
extensions
out
will
be
vertically. better
I
what
the
I
take
have
if
be
the
sloping
through
couple
of
and
a
corner
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
master
too
much
cylinders
need
to
frustrating
cylinder
[/quote]linkage
[/quote]they
move
to
[/quote]motor
[/quote]to
mount
[/quote]lower
brake
in
[/quote]mounted
on
[/quote]unit.
This
[/quote]well
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[/quote]




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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:40 pm
by Ken
Measure your elevator bellcrank from the centerling pivot axis to the
cable attach holes.
2.25" means the old sensitive part.
3" means the newer part.
I believe this change was made early although it was some time after
119R which is 1992 vintage. It would be easy to drill new holes and
remove some material to revert to the older style if one decided to do
that later so I decided to go with MAM's recommended specs and see how
it flies.

The 1992 bulletin that changes the aileron mixer was also some time
after 119R came out of the factory. My impression is that they were much
more insistant about making that change.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Could someone clarify the difference between pre and post desensitized
controls. How would I know which I have? I think the kit I got from Wayne is
#425.



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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Thanks Ken,
I'll have to check out the aileron mixer as well.
Jesse
From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 10:29:12 -0500

Measure your elevator bellcrank from the centerling pivot axis to the
cable attach holes.
2.25" means the old sensitive part.
3" means the newer part.
I believe this change was made early although it was some time after
119R which is 1992 vintage. It would be easy to drill new holes and
remove some material to revert to the older style if one decided to do
that later so I decided to go with MAM's recommended specs and see how
it flies.

The 1992 bulletin that changes the aileron mixer was also some time
after 119R came out of the factory. My impression is that they were much
more insistant about making that change.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Could someone clarify the difference between pre and post desensitized
controls. How would I know which I have? I think the kit I got from Wayne
is
#425.



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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
Your stuff would all be of the newer variety Jesse. Changes were made
shortly after mine at #243/Mar 1993. I have the old sensitive elevator mixer
and the newer aileron bellcrank (I think!).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Thanks Ken,
I'll have to check out the aileron mixer as well.
Jesse
From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 10:29:12 -0500

Measure your elevator bellcrank from the centerling pivot axis to the
cable attach holes.
2.25" means the old sensitive part.
3" means the newer part.
I believe this change was made early although it was some time after
119R which is 1992 vintage. It would be easy to drill new holes and
remove some material to revert to the older style if one decided to do
that later so I decided to go with MAM's recommended specs and see how
it flies.

The 1992 bulletin that changes the aileron mixer was also some time
after 119R came out of the factory. My impression is that they were much
more insistant about making that change.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Could someone clarify the difference between pre and post desensitized
controls. How would I know which I have? I think the kit I got from
Wayne
is
#425.



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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Jesse Jenks
Thanks Wayne,
You say that you like the old style elevator mixer better, would you
recommend re drilling it as Ken suggested?
Thanks
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 22:02:38 -0500

Your stuff would all be of the newer variety Jesse. Changes were made
shortly after mine at #243/Mar 1993. I have the old sensitive elevator
mixer
and the newer aileron bellcrank (I think!).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Thanks Ken,
I'll have to check out the aileron mixer as well.
Jesse
From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 10:29:12 -0500

Measure your elevator bellcrank from the centerling pivot axis to the
cable attach holes.
2.25" means the old sensitive part.
3" means the newer part.
I believe this change was made early although it was some time after
119R which is 1992 vintage. It would be easy to drill new holes and
remove some material to revert to the older style if one decided to do
that later so I decided to go with MAM's recommended specs and see how
it flies.

The 1992 bulletin that changes the aileron mixer was also some time
after 119R came out of the factory. My impression is that they were
much
more insistant about making that change.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:
desensitized
Wayne
is


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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Wayne G. O'Shea
I'd be tempted to go about 1/2 way between the old and the new postion if I
was doing another one. Will cut down on the "jewel" crush in full back stick
landings. Just my opinion and your mileage may vary..so you may want to take
Ken's advise..try it out as is and you can always go shorter..but not back
to full length arms (without welding anyhow!)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Thanks Wayne,
You say that you like the old style elevator mixer better, would you
recommend re drilling it as Ken suggested?
Thanks
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 22:02:38 -0500

Your stuff would all be of the newer variety Jesse. Changes were made
shortly after mine at #243/Mar 1993. I have the old sensitive elevator
mixer
and the newer aileron bellcrank (I think!).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Thanks Ken,
I'll have to check out the aileron mixer as well.
Jesse
do
how
much
desensitized
Wayne



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Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:41 pm
by Jesse Jenks
thanks Wayne,
I'll wait and see if my boys need the extra room.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 00:27:11 -0500

I'd be tempted to go about 1/2 way between the old and the new postion if I
was doing another one. Will cut down on the "jewel" crush in full back
stick
landings. Just my opinion and your mileage may vary..so you may want to
take
Ken's advise..try it out as is and you can always go shorter..but not back
to full length arms (without welding anyhow!)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

Thanks Wayne,
You say that you like the old style elevator mixer better, would you
recommend re drilling it as Ken suggested?
Thanks
Jesse
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 22:02:38 -0500

Your stuff would all be of the newer variety Jesse. Changes were made
shortly after mine at #243/Mar 1993. I have the old sensitive elevator
mixer
and the newer aileron bellcrank (I think!).

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel-Elevator Rigging

the
after
do
how
much desensitized
from
Wayne



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