The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Hi all,
Working on rigging elevator and rudder. I see in some pics there are
turnbuckles on the rudder pedals. My manual says hook the cables direct to
the tangs on the pedals. I also only received one set of turnbuckles. What
is the best way to go about this?
Problem with elevator rigging. I seem to have read or heard I don't need so
much down elevator but I don't know how much? I can get 25 degrees up and
right tight to the seat and 10 degrees down hitting the panel. I pulled the
control tube stop right out to get full up. I may have to yet cut off those
sticks! Any advice appreciated.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Hi Mike

I fitted turnbuckles to the rudder pedal ends as well as the elevator. Just
gives me a bit more adjustment for trimming and tensioning the cables.

Haven't got round to doing the elevators position yet, but I'll probably
have the same problem as you do of getting suitable travel to allow +/- 25
degrees.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 27 December 2005 00:34
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Rigging controls

Hi all,
Working on rigging elevator and rudder. I see in some pics there are
turnbuckles on the rudder pedals. My manual says hook the cables direct to
the tangs on the pedals. I also only received one set of turnbuckles. What
is the best way to go about this?
Problem with elevator rigging. I seem to have read or heard I don't need so
much down elevator but I don't know how much? I can get 25 degrees up and
right tight to the seat and 10 degrees down hitting the panel. I pulled the
control tube stop right out to get full up. I may have to yet cut off those
sticks! Any advice appreciated.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Guess maybe MAM decided the rudder pedal turnbuckles where pretty
redundent..... since you are only using a spring to hold them tight. Make
them the right length and you're never going to adjust them.

----- Original Message -----
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 5:18 AM
Subject: RE: Rigging controls

Hi Mike

I fitted turnbuckles to the rudder pedal ends as well as the elevator.

Just

gives me a bit more adjustment for trimming and tensioning the cables.

Haven't got round to doing the elevators position yet, but I'll probably
have the same problem as you do of getting suitable travel to allow +/- 25
degrees.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 27 December 2005 00:34
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Rigging controls

Hi all,
Working on rigging elevator and rudder. I see in some pics there are
turnbuckles on the rudder pedals. My manual says hook the cables direct to
the tangs on the pedals. I also only received one set of turnbuckles. What
is the best way to go about this?
Problem with elevator rigging. I seem to have read or heard I don't need

so

much down elevator but I don't know how much? I can get 25 degrees up and
right tight to the seat and 10 degrees down hitting the panel. I pulled

the

control tube stop right out to get full up. I may have to yet cut off

those

sticks! Any advice appreciated.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Ok thanks all.
I may try and rig with out turn buckles. Hopefully I get it right the first
time.
Mike Betti
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: Rigging controls

Guess maybe MAM decided the rudder pedal turnbuckles where pretty
redundent..... since you are only using a spring to hold them tight. Make
them the right length and you're never going to adjust them.

----- Original Message -----
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 5:18 AM
Subject: RE: Rigging controls

Hi Mike

I fitted turnbuckles to the rudder pedal ends as well as the elevator.
Just
gives me a bit more adjustment for trimming and tensioning the cables.

Haven't got round to doing the elevators position yet, but I'll probably
have the same problem as you do of getting suitable travel to allow +/-
25
degrees.

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: 27 December 2005 00:34
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Rigging controls

Hi all,
Working on rigging elevator and rudder. I see in some pics there are
turnbuckles on the rudder pedals. My manual says hook the cables direct
to
the tangs on the pedals. I also only received one set of turnbuckles.
What
is the best way to go about this?
Problem with elevator rigging. I seem to have read or heard I don't need
so
much down elevator but I don't know how much? I can get 25 degrees up and
right tight to the seat and 10 degrees down hitting the panel. I pulled
the
control tube stop right out to get full up. I may have to yet cut off
those
sticks! Any advice appreciated.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Mike:

This is why you have to cut the stick. You ned to get 15* of down, and at
least 25* up (I have 26).

I put turnbuckles in the rudder to allow adjustment. Seemed like a good
idea. Daryl didn't, 'cause it would have cost $20 more, and he couldn't get
$20 more for the kit. The "tangs" that came with my kit had 1/4" holes, and
the other hardware was 3/16", so something had to be done anyway. It's
really worth considering putting apulley in the elevator loop in front of
the control column, so both cables can come off the lower horn on the
column, Keeps everthing close to the floor, and you need an extra pulley
somewhere anyway. Only thing, it has to be a 3" pulley. Pics somewhere on
the website,

Al

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Al
Is that pulley taking the resistance out that I feel on the control stick
when I tighten up the control cables?

Steve W. #637R

From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rigging controls
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 10:16:11 -0500

Mike:

This is why you have to cut the stick. You ned to get 15* of down, and at
least 25* up (I have 26).

I put turnbuckles in the rudder to allow adjustment. Seemed like a good
idea. Daryl didn't, 'cause it would have cost $20 more, and he couldn't
get
$20 more for the kit. The "tangs" that came with my kit had 1/4" holes,
and
the other hardware was 3/16", so something had to be done anyway. It's
really worth considering putting apulley in the elevator loop in front of
the control column, so both cables can come off the lower horn on the
column, Keeps everthing close to the floor, and you need an extra pulley
somewhere anyway. Only thing, it has to be a 3" pulley. Pics somewhere on
the website,

Al

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Thanks again Al,
I know I asked you about this stick thing just recently but I still didn't
get what you mean. Is the top of the stick actually shorter than the panel
so it can go under it instead of hitting it?
Mike Betti
771E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Rigging controls

Mike:

This is why you have to cut the stick. You ned to get 15* of down, and at
least 25* up (I have 26).

I put turnbuckles in the rudder to allow adjustment. Seemed like a good
idea. Daryl didn't, 'cause it would have cost $20 more, and he couldn't
get
$20 more for the kit. The "tangs" that came with my kit had 1/4" holes,
and
the other hardware was 3/16", so something had to be done anyway. It's
really worth considering putting apulley in the elevator loop in front of
the control column, so both cables can come off the lower horn on the
column, Keeps everthing close to the floor, and you need an extra pulley
somewhere anyway. Only thing, it has to be a 3" pulley. Pics somewhere
on
the website,

Al

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Steve:

There will always be some resistance dur to the fairleads on the cabin
floor, but it isn't too bad. The rudder is much worse. The usual way to rig
the Elite is to put a pulley about 14" back from the control column, and
take the "down" cable up at about a 15* angle to the upper horn on the
column. However, if you think about it, the total cale loop length will
vary signifcantly depending on the position of the stick, so the cable
tension will vary likewise. Having the pulley ahead of the control coulm to
bring the "down" cable round to attach to the front of the lower horn (same
place as the "up" cable) eliminates this tension variation, and keeps the
cable close to the floor.

BTW, one way to alleviate the lack of stick travel problem Mike is talking
about is to lengthen the lower horn on the control column to the point that
it just clears the floor. Jack Wiebe has done this, but you have to be able
to weld 4130 to do this.

Al

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:36 pm**

Thanks Al
The resistance I feel I believe is the torque tube being pulled against the
delrin bearings. It is extremely free of friction until the cables are
under tention. I removed the torque tube and polished the bearing surfaces
and re-assembled but only improved a little. Probably just the nature of the
beast!

Steve W.

From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Rigging controls
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 21:50:55 -0500

Steve:

There will always be some resistance dur to the fairleads on the cabin
floor, but it isn't too bad. The rudder is much worse. The usual way to
rig
the Elite is to put a pulley about 14" back from the control column, and
take the "down" cable up at about a 15* angle to the upper horn on the
column. However, if you think about it, the total cale loop length will
vary signifcantly depending on the position of the stick, so the cable
tension will vary likewise. Having the pulley ahead of the control coulm
to
bring the "down" cable round to attach to the front of the lower horn (same
place as the "up" cable) eliminates this tension variation, and keeps the
cable close to the floor.

BTW, one way to alleviate the lack of stick travel problem Mike is talking
about is to lengthen the lower horn on the control column to the point that
it just clears the floor. Jack Wiebe has done this, but you have to be
able
to weld 4130 to do this.

Al

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