The Murphy Builders Site

Looks like it controls the mixer arm ... instead of using a teleflex cable.
Any information on sourcing a linear actuater like this one would be
terrific. I looked into it a few months ago, and the ones I found were
pretty expensive.

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
jimsrebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 9:56 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Rudder Cable Fairleads


Did I see Electric Flaps on the "cable 3" photo??
How about some info on the electric flaps system with Part numbers.
Check the file size before you click on it, if you are on dial up / or an
old
farm phone line connection.
Jim L.


On 12/20/2005 7:12 PM, srwhitenect@hotmail.com wrote to rebel-builders:

->
->
-> My boy is presently uploading the pictures of the cable fairleads I used
in
-> Rebel #637
->
-> Steve W.
->
->





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Bob:

As I said, the power seat motor works great, and the price is right. $50
buys you a seat, and it comes with two tracks and several motors. Lots of
power for the job. I've tried to access the Wildcat site to confirm where
the pics of my installation are located, but it won't let me in for some
reason.

My installation has no Teleflex cable, and no need to reinforce the cabin
roof area to absorb the twisting forces inherent in the Murphy mechanism, as
there's no longer anything to do with the flaps ahead of the rear door post.
The mixer arm is activated by a vertical pushrod parallel to the aileron
pushrods. Retract time is around 3-4 seconds.

Al





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At 06:15 PM 12/21/2005 -0500, you wrote:

Bob:

As I said, the power seat motor works great, and the price is right. $50
buys you a seat, and it comes with two tracks and several motors. Lots of
power for the job. I've tried to access the Wildcat site to confirm where
the pics of my installation are located, but it won't let me in for some
reason.

My installation has no Teleflex cable, and no need to reinforce the cabin
roof area to absorb the twisting forces inherent in the Murphy mechanism, as
there's no longer anything to do with the flaps ahead of the rear door post.
The mixer arm is activated by a vertical pushrod parallel to the aileron
pushrods. Retract time is around 3-4 seconds.

Al

Hi Al your system looks pretty good. do you need limit switches to turn it
off at the end of it's travel? Do you have any indicator telling you how
much flap is deployed?
Drew





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You might want to take into consideration the time it will take to
deploy and retract the flaps. The few seat motor based systems that I've
observed were too fast for my liking.
Ken

Bob Andrews wrote:

Thanks for the info Steve. $170 is a lot less then I was able to find in
prior research ... $450-$600 range. Going to also explore the electric seat
approach ... thanks Al.

Bob 612e

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Bob:

It was about a 1992 Cadillac. The tracks are actually made of aluminum,
which was a bonus. I have pics of them that I can download if you want.
Also of the mods to the standard Murphy parts for this application. The
only extra thing I bought from Murphy was a 1' length of 1" ID 4130 tubing
to splice the two actuator tubes together. And I did weld slightly longer
horns on to these tubes, but I don't think that would be necessary if I'd
thunk ahead a bit better! The tracks use plastic sliders between the fixed
and moving parts, and I found these to be in poor condition, and had to get
some new ones machined from Delrin, but it wasn't a big deal. I expect
you'll find the same.

Not all tracks are created equal. The arrangement on a Ford I looked at was
completely unsuitable.

Al





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Ken,

This actuator won't be running when the flaps are being deployed or
retracted. Its sole purpose is to set the aileron droop angle as a function
of flap position. A two position self centering push button "bump" switch
is what I have in mind ... bump them (alierons) down a bit .. bump them up a
bit. The flap handle will then control the "mixed set" as defined by this
actuator (mixer arm) positon.

Cheers,
Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 4:56 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Mixer Arm Control


You might want to take into consideration the time it will take to
deploy and retract the flaps. The few seat motor based systems that I've
observed were too fast for my liking.
Ken

Bob Andrews wrote:

Thanks for the info Steve. $170 is a lot less then I was able to find in
prior research ... $450-$600 range. Going to also explore the electric

seat

approach ... thanks Al.

Bob 612e

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The ol' Cadi's seem to be coming into play for me once again. I bought a
load leveler air pump at the junk yard that came off an old Cadillac to
provide air for a pnematic gear control system that I was going to put on my
old Coot that I had a few years ago. Thanks for the info Al.

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 5:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Mixer Arm Control


Bob:

It was about a 1992 Cadillac. The tracks are actually made of aluminum,
which was a bonus. I have pics of them that I can download if you want.
Also of the mods to the standard Murphy parts for this application. The
only extra thing I bought from Murphy was a 1' length of 1" ID 4130 tubing
to splice the two actuator tubes together. And I did weld slightly longer
horns on to these tubes, but I don't think that would be necessary if I'd
thunk ahead a bit better! The tracks use plastic sliders between the fixed
and moving parts, and I found these to be in poor condition, and had to get
some new ones machined from Delrin, but it wasn't a big deal. I expect
you'll find the same.

Not all tracks are created equal. The arrangement on a Ford I looked at was
completely unsuitable.

Al





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To Bob and Jim
The actuator is an Electrac 12v 2" stroke with built in limit switches and
1.25 lbs in weight. 75ft lb of force. Model S12-17A8-02. Try linear
actuators made by Warner and u should fing a ton of them on several web
sites. I've seen the same one only mounted parrel to the mixer arm and
linked with a 90* arm so the window can be fully utilized. I'm not
installing rear windows. My installation had to be recessed in the wall as
far as possible not to interfer with the control arms. $170. us purchased
thru Richards Co Elmwood Park NJ. They have a web site.

Steve W
#637R

From: "Bob Andrews" <robert@montanasky.us>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Mixer Arm Control
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 06:42:29 -0800

Looks like it controls the mixer arm ... instead of using a teleflex cable.
Any information on sourcing a linear actuater like this one would be
terrific. I looked into it a few months ago, and the ones I found were
pretty expensive.

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
jimsrebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 9:56 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Rudder Cable Fairleads


Did I see Electric Flaps on the "cable 3" photo??
How about some info on the electric flaps system with Part numbers.
Check the file size before you click on it, if you are on dial up / or an
old
farm phone line connection.
Jim L.


On 12/20/2005 7:12 PM, srwhitenect@hotmail.com wrote to rebel-builders:

->
->
-> My boy is presently uploading the pictures of the cable fairleads I used
in
-> Rebel #637
->
-> Steve W.
->
->





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Yes, I have a couple of microswitches purchased from Newark. If the pics.
don't show these, I can download some more recent ones.
Right now, I have no indicator. I have some marks on the track or look out
the window. It would be easy to wrap a piece of fine wire round the cross
tube and bring it forward to an indicator on the door post as per the
earlier C150s, or rig up some kind of potentiometer and take it to an AUX
input on the EFIS, but I really haven't found the lack of an indicator to be
a big deal.





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Thanks for the info Steve. $170 is a lot less then I was able to find in
prior research ... $450-$600 range. Going to also explore the electric seat
approach ... thanks Al.

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
steve whitenect
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 8:31 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Mixer Arm Control


To Bob and Jim
The actuator is an Electrac 12v 2" stroke with built in limit switches and
1.25 lbs in weight. 75ft lb of force. Model S12-17A8-02. Try linear
actuators made by Warner and u should fing a ton of them on several web
sites. I've seen the same one only mounted parrel to the mixer arm and
linked with a 90* arm so the window can be fully utilized. I'm not
installing rear windows. My installation had to be recessed in the wall as
far as possible not to interfer with the control arms. $170. us purchased
thru Richards Co Elmwood Park NJ. They have a web site.

Steve W
#637R

From: "Bob Andrews" <robert@montanasky.us>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Mixer Arm Control
Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 06:42:29 -0800

Looks like it controls the mixer arm ... instead of using a teleflex cable.
Any information on sourcing a linear actuater like this one would be
terrific. I looked into it a few months ago, and the ones I found were
pretty expensive.

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
jimsrebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 9:56 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: Rudder Cable Fairleads


Did I see Electric Flaps on the "cable 3" photo??
How about some info on the electric flaps system with Part numbers.
Check the file size before you click on it, if you are on dial up / or an
old
farm phone line connection.
Jim L.


On 12/20/2005 7:12 PM, srwhitenect@hotmail.com wrote to rebel-builders:

->
->
-> My boy is presently uploading the pictures of the cable fairleads I used
in
-> Rebel #637
->
-> Steve W.
->
->





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Thanks for the explanation Bob.
Some of the dehavilland STOL machines drooped the ailerons
proportionally with the flap. It seemed to work well. IIRC full aileron
deflection would result in the down aileron going down almost as far as
the flap. I guess the "almost" insured that the inboard wing would stall
first. It would be ugly if one applied full aileron and that added to a
bit of yaw stalled that wing tip that one was trying to lift.
Ken.

Bob Andrews wrote:

Ken,

This actuator won't be running when the flaps are being deployed or
retracted. Its sole purpose is to set the aileron droop angle as a function
of flap position. A two position self centering push button "bump" switch
is what I have in mind ... bump them (alierons) down a bit .. bump them up a
bit. The flap handle will then control the "mixed set" as defined by this
actuator (mixer arm) positon.

Cheers,
Bob 612e

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