The Murphy Builders Site

Eliteists,
I'm finding it hard to get the stab and elevator mounted with out scatching and damaging it. I have a helper too. Seems the trouble comes in after the two pieces are in but trying to get the center hinge mated. I already put a couple small dents in the leading edge where it would be up against the front rudder attach bracket, at least hidden by fairing. I don't know how I'm going to ever keep the paint on it when the times comes. An extra 1/4" would be the answer. Any tricks.
Mike Betti
771E



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Mike:

It is pretty tight. But if you use Wayne's idea and secure at least the rear
attach brackets to the fuselage wioth captive nuts inside the fuselage
instead of plain vanilla bolts an nuts, you can leave out these brackets
until after the stab and elevator are in position. Another bonus is that
you can shim the stab to adjust its incidence without removing everything.
You are going to have to remove that stab at least once to paint the area
around the hinge line. I took mine off for painting, and was suggesting
only painting the hinge area before re-assembly, but with that rear bracket
removed it should go much easier. Look at it and let me know what you
think.

Al





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Thanks Al,
I'm not sure.................. As you bring the elevator down to a lower
point in that space, you loose more space due to the curved rear rudder
attach spars. Have you tried it? Are you still fighting with it with your
rear attach brackets removed?
I like the idea of painting the hinge line and then reassembling.
Mike Betti
771E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stab install

Mike:

It is pretty tight. But if you use Wayne's idea and secure at least the
rear
attach brackets to the fuselage wioth captive nuts inside the fuselage
instead of plain vanilla bolts an nuts, you can leave out these brackets
until after the stab and elevator are in position. Another bonus is that
you can shim the stab to adjust its incidence without removing everything.
You are going to have to remove that stab at least once to paint the area
around the hinge line. I took mine off for painting, and was suggesting
only painting the hinge area before re-assembly, but with that rear
bracket
removed it should go much easier. Look at it and let me know what you
think.

Al





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Al,
How about cutting off the fin front spar edges, see pic? Do you think that
would help. I don't know about affecting it structurally by doing this?
www.mikeselite.com/images/stabclearance.jpg
Mike Betti
771E

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stab install

Mike:

It is pretty tight. But if you use Wayne's idea and secure at least the
rear
attach brackets to the fuselage wioth captive nuts inside the fuselage
instead of plain vanilla bolts an nuts, you can leave out these brackets
until after the stab and elevator are in position. Another bonus is that
you can shim the stab to adjust its incidence without removing everything.
You are going to have to remove that stab at least once to paint the area
around the hinge line. I took mine off for painting, and was suggesting
only painting the hinge area before re-assembly, but with that rear
bracket
removed it should go much easier. Look at it and let me know what you
think.

Al





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You may be right, Mike. My airplane is down at the paint shop, so I can't
try it. That's why I was hoping you'd be able to investigate. When you
install the thing, the elevator is leading edge down, and the stab is
trailing edge down. I know when took it off for painting, we convinced
ourselves that with that bracket out we'd be able to install it without too
much risk of damage. We'd still stick some protective tape on the stab LE,
however.

Al





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I'm going to cut the fin spar and try the stab install this weekend hopefully.
Mike Betti

On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 07:51:05 -0500, rebel-builders@dcsol.com said:

You may be right, Mike. My airplane is down at the paint shop, so I can't
try it. That's why I was hoping you'd be able to investigate. When you
install the thing, the elevator is leading edge down, and the stab is
trailing edge down. I know when took it off for painting, we convinced
ourselves that with that bracket out we'd be able to install it without too
much risk of damage. We'd still stick some protective tape on the stab LE,
however.

Al





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Whoa Mike !!

I'm no engineer, but a mod like that DEFINITELY should be
run past the factory !! Could significantly weaken the structure !
(or not ... IANAE ! ;-) )

......bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Tuesday 20 December 2005 08:49 pm, Mike Betti wrote:

Al,
How about cutting off the fin front spar edges, see pic? Do you think that
would help. I don't know about affecting it structurally by doing this?
www.mikeselite.com/images/stabclearance.jpg
Mike Betti
771E

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stab install

Mike:

It is pretty tight. But if you use Wayne's idea and secure at least the
rear
attach brackets to the fuselage wioth captive nuts inside the fuselage
instead of plain vanilla bolts an nuts, you can leave out these brackets
until after the stab and elevator are in position. Another bonus is

that

you can shim the stab to adjust its incidence without removing

everything.

You are going to have to remove that stab at least once to paint the

area

around the hinge line. I took mine off for painting, and was suggesting
only painting the hinge area before re-assembly, but with that rear
bracket
removed it should go much easier. Look at it and let me know what you
think.

Al





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Mike:

A-a-a-rrr-kk! It isn't that tough do do it! Practice a few times and it
goes farly smoothly. I must have had mine in and out 4 or 5 times by now.
(For those who have less than pure minds and have not been following this
Email trail, it should be pointed out that we are talking about the
"Subject", on the Elite). You do need a couple of people and you certainly
might scuff the paint, but the most that should need to be done is to paint
the leading edge after installation. If you factor that into your paint
scheme design, it would be a non-issue.

No doubt a design that allowed for later attachment of the fin with
removable fasteners would have been better, but don't go cutting the spar
until you have designed how you're going to re-attach it.

Al





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