The Murphy Builders Site

Try sending again...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Elite Horizontal Stab

Another fix I'd encourage you to incorporate at this stage is Wayne's idea
of putting captive nuts on the inside of the tail cone to accept the bolts
that secure the stab mounting fittings. At the very least, this saves

some

contortions when tightening these bolts, but if you ever want to shim the
stab to make minor adjustments to incidence, then this saves a pile of

work.

Just think about trying to get at the bolts inside the tailcone with the
stab in place. On my Elite, on floats, it flies around with about 5

degrees

up elevator, and I'd like to eliminate that. I'm going to install the

nuts

when I have the stab off for painting.

BTW, it's also advisable to install an undocumented filler piece under the
stab mounting brackets and between the flanges of the fus sides to fill

what

would otherwise be a void.

Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 5:01 AM
Subject: Rebel Horizontal Stab

Hello
I'm building a rebel kit #009, in building the horizontal-stab, the

leading

edge skins came pre drilled and the way the instructions sound, they

make

it

sound like they are not ? There is only one way that they can go? they

have

to go where the holes are?
So in installing them I would just line up the holes and drill from

there?

just like in other building such as the rudder and the elevators.
I really don't want to proceed without some advise.
Thanks
Dave Tuck
Rebel #009





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Doesn't apply on his Rebel Al. Glad you've brought it up for the Elite guys
though! I also noticed this doing the Moose. Brackets sit out onto the
flanges of the side panels and need to be shimmed to sit flat. I would not
cut the flange for clearance like I've seen in some pictures and as matter
of fact I drilled and riveted the flange to the deck plate for added
strength.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 6:48 PM
Subject: Fw: Elite Horizontal Stab

Try sending again...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: Elite Horizontal Stab

Another fix I'd encourage you to incorporate at this stage is Wayne's

idea

of putting captive nuts on the inside of the tail cone to accept the

bolts

that secure the stab mounting fittings. At the very least, this saves

some

contortions when tightening these bolts, but if you ever want to shim

the

stab to make minor adjustments to incidence, then this saves a pile of

work.

Just think about trying to get at the bolts inside the tailcone with the
stab in place. On my Elite, on floats, it flies around with about 5

degrees

up elevator, and I'd like to eliminate that. I'm going to install the

nuts

when I have the stab off for painting.

BTW, it's also advisable to install an undocumented filler piece under

the

stab mounting brackets and between the flanges of the fus sides to fill

what

would otherwise be a void.

Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "David L. Tuck" <dltuck53@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 5:01 AM
Subject: Rebel Horizontal Stab

Hello
I'm building a rebel kit #009, in building the horizontal-stab, the

leading

edge skins came pre drilled and the way the instructions sound, they

make

it

sound like they are not ? There is only one way that they can go? they

have

to go where the holes are?
So in installing them I would just line up the holes and drill from

there?

just like in other building such as the rudder and the elevators.
I really don't want to proceed without some advise.
Thanks
Dave Tuck
Rebel #009





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