Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Lonnie Benson · Post by **Lonnie Benson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

I am in the process of mounting my Matco wheels onto the axle on the spring gear. I placed a thin washer supplied by MAM on the axle, then the wheel, another thin washer, then the castellated nut. After tightening the nut I find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an eighth of an inch from the nut. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just add more washers to move the nut further out on the axle?

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

Lonnie, Do you have the old gold Matco wheels or the newer alloy wheels mfg'd by Murphy?? The Matco wheels have straight roller bearings in them so only tighten the nut finger tight(actually finger loose). Stop tightening as soon as nut/washer combo touches the bearing.. If cotter won't hold nut in place, you will need to space out with washers. If you tighten the nut with a wrench, you will need 4 new bearings before you finish your taxi tests as the roller balls will chew out the bearings race edges! (don't ask me how I know!) I have over 250 hours on the old style gold wheels and I have needed to install 2 bearings since new.(other than the above mentioned 4) My gold wheels also have a 1/4" thick squash plate inside and outside to beef up the wheel hub. If you have Murphy's wheels, they have proper taper bearings in them and can be snugged up properly with a wrench(while rotating the wheel) to seat the bearing properly. Same deal with the nut on these ones also for the cotter pin. If you don't have the newer murphy wheels, I would highly suggest that before you finish the gear installation, you aquire them and install them for a trouble free future. They once had a deal to trade them in that I missed, but maybe you can swing a deal with MAM.

Wayne

From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com (lonben@erols.com)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 10:10 AM
Subject: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

I am in the process of mounting my Matco wheels onto the axle on the spring gear. I placed a thin washer supplied by MAM on the axle, then the wheel, another thin washer, then the castellated nut. After tightening the nut I find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an eighth of an inch from the nut. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just add more washers to move the nut further out on the axle?

Lonnie Benson · Post by **Lonnie Benson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

Wayne: Thanks for your input. My Matco wheels are silver and have tapered bearings. When I tighten the axle nut finger tight and take all the "wobble" out of the wheel, the outer edge of the nut reaches the middle of the cotter pin hole. A couple of washers should take care of that problem. I talked with Elaine several months ago about a trade-in but my silver Matcos did not qualify. I wonder if there has been any problems with the silver Matcos other than the fact that they will not hold the airplane during run-up? It will be some time before I will be ready to fly my Rebel so I have time to ponder the question of whether or not I should switch to MAM wheels and brakes.

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Lonnie, Do you have the old gold Matco wheels or the newer alloy wheels mfg'd by Murphy?? The Matco wheels have straight roller bearings in them so only tighten the nut finger tight(actually finger loose). Stop tightening as soon as nut/washer combo touches the bearing.. If cotter won't hold nut in place, you will need to space out with washers. If you tighten the nut with a wrench, you will need 4 new bearings before you finish your taxi tests as the roller balls will chew out the bearings race edges! (don't ask me how I know!) I have over 250 hours on the old style gold wheels and I have needed to install 2 bearings since new.(other than the above mentioned 4) My gold wheels also have a 1/4" thick squash plate inside and outside to beef up the wheel hub. If you have Murphy's wheels, they have proper taper bearings in them and can be snugged up properly with a wrench(while rotating the wheel) to seat the bearing properly. Same deal with the nut on these ones also for the cotter pin. If you don't have the newer murphy wheels, I would highly suggest that before you finish the gear installation, you aquire them and install them for a trouble free future. They once had a deal to trade them in that I missed, but maybe you can swing a deal with MAM.

Wayne

From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com (lonben@erols.com)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 10:10 AM
Subject: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

I am in the process of mounting my Matco wheels onto the axle on the spring gear. I placed a thin washer supplied by MAM on the axle, then the wheel, another thin washer, then the castellated nut. After tightening the nut I find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an eighth of an inch from the nut. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just add more washers to move the nut further out on the axle?

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

Lonnie, Most brakes will not hold, because builders (and AME's) will put a new set of brakes on an aircraft and go off flying. The first high speed brake application glazes the pads! Brake pads need to be conditioned by taxing at about 1200 to 1400 rpm, and dragging the brakes with a steady pressure to maintain about 10MPH for the length of the runway. Then let cool and repeat a few times. You will be amazed at the difference. When Bob tried to test fly Howards Rebel on Amphibs, the brakes(clevelands) wouldn't hold at all and he couldn't keep the plane on the crown of our runway. Twice up and down our strip (with us holding him straight at times) was enough to get them working okay and holding. Even my old gold Matco's will hold my 150hp Lyco at full power and they have 5 1/2 years and 250 hours+ on them.

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com (lonben@erols.com)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Wayne: Thanks for your input. My Matco wheels are silver and have tapered bearings. When I tighten the axle nut finger tight and take all the "wobble" out of the wheel, the outer edge of the nut reaches the middle of the cotter pin hole. A couple of washers should take care of that problem. I talked with Elaine several months ago about a trade-in but my silver Matcos did not qualify. I wonder if there has been any problems with the silver Matcos other than the fact that they will not hold the airplane during run-up? It will be some time before I will be ready to fly my Rebel so I have time to ponder the question of whether or not I should switch to MAM wheels and brakes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Lonnie, Do you have the old gold Matco wheels or the newer alloy wheels mfg'd by Murphy?? The Matco wheels have straight roller bearings in them so only tighten the nut finger tight(actually finger loose). Stop tightening as soon as nut/washer combo touches the bearing.. If cotter won't hold nut in place, you will need to space out with washers. If you tighten the nut with a wrench, you will need 4 new bearings before you finish your taxi tests as the roller balls will chew out the bearings race edges! (don't ask me how I know!) I have over 250 hours on the old style gold wheels and I have needed to install 2 bearings since new.(other than the above mentioned 4) My gold wheels also have a 1/4" thick squash plate inside and outside to beef up the wheel hub. If you have Murphy's wheels, they have proper taper bearings in them and can be snugged up properly with a wrench(while rotating the wheel) to seat the bearing properly. Same deal with the nut on these ones also for the cotter pin. If you don't have the newer murphy wheels, I would highly suggest that before you finish the gear installation, you aquire them and install them for a trouble free future. They once had a deal to trade them in that I missed, but maybe you can swing a deal with MAM.

Wayne

From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com (lonben@erols.com)>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 10:10 AM
Subject: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

I am in the process of mounting my Matco wheels onto the axle on the spring gear. I placed a thin washer supplied by MAM on the axle, then the wheel, another thin washer, then the castellated nut. After tightening the nut I find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an eighth of an inch from the nut. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just add more washers to move the nut further out on the axle?

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

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LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

THANKS for the brake breakin info thats very interesting and important.
Thanks Again P.S.&L.S.
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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm

Good advice, as usual, Wayne. Don't worry, Lonnie - the reason Murphy
didn't allow an upgrade from the SILVER Matcos is that they considered them
to be acceptable for the Rebel (the GOLD Matcos were NOT sturdy enough).
If the SILVER Matcos are broken in properly, they should hold to almost
full power. Some builders would suggest that this is 'a Good Thing' (TM) :-)
as there have been a few Rebels that have been stood on the nose by the
powerful Murphy brakes !!

Yours should be just fine !

And I'm ready for Alaska anytime !!
... Although I really don't understand the fascination .... usually, by the
time we've Rambled through the Rockies, most Ramblers have had quite enough
adventure to do them for some time ! :-) I did fly a Rebel up to
Kuujuaq (old Fort Chimo), in Northern Quebec - sure is a LOT of tundra...
I guess Alaska would be much more interesting (and you wouldn't have to
fly <quite> 400+ miles between airports :-) )

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------------
At 05:35 PM 11/29/99 -0500, you wrote:

Lonnie, Most brakes will not hold, because builders (and AME's) will put a

new set of brakes on an aircraft and go off flying. The first high speed
brake application glazes the pads! Brake pads need to be conditioned by
taxing at about 1200 to 1400 rpm, and dragging the brakes with a steady
pressure to maintain about 10MPH for the length of the runway. Then let cool
and repeat a few times. You will be amazed at the difference. When Bob tried
to test fly Howards Rebel on Amphibs, the brakes(clevelands) wouldn't hold
at all and he couldn't keep the plane on the crown of our runway. Twice up
and down our strip (with us holding him straight at times) was enough to get
them working okay and holding. Even my old gold Matco's will hold my 150hp
Lyco at full power and they have 5 1/2 years and 250 hours+ on them.

Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Wayne: Thanks for your input. My Matco wheels are silver and have

tapered bearings. When I tighten the axle nut finger tight and take all the
"wobble" out of the wheel, the outer edge of the nut reaches the middle of
the cotter pin hole. A couple of washers should take care of that problem.
I talked with Elaine several months ago about a trade-in but my silver
Matcos did not qualify. I wonder if there has been any problems with the
silver Matcos other than the fact that they will not hold the airplane
during run-up? It will be some time before I will be ready to fly my Rebel
so I have time to ponder the question of whether or not I should switch to
MAM wheels and brakes.

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

Lonnie, Do you have the old gold Matco wheels or the newer alloy

wheels mfg'd by Murphy?? The Matco wheels have straight roller bearings in
them so only tighten the nut finger tight(actually finger loose). Stop
tightening as soon as nut/washer combo touches the bearing.. If cotter won't
hold nut in place, you will need to space out with washers. If you tighten
the nut with a wrench, you will need 4 new bearings before you finish your
taxi tests as the roller balls will chew out the bearings race edges! (don't
ask me how I know!) I have over 250 hours on the old style gold wheels and I
have needed to install 2 bearings since new.(other than the above mentioned
4) My gold wheels also have a 1/4" thick squash plate inside and outside to
beef up the wheel hub. If you have Murphy's wheels, they have proper taper
bearings in them and can be snugged up properly with a wrench(while rotating
the wheel) to seat the bearing properly. Same deal with the nut on these
ones also for the cotter pin. If you don't have the newer murphy wheels, I
would highly suggest that before you finish the gear installation, you
aquire them and install them for a trouble free future. They once had a deal
to trade them in that I missed, but maybe you can swing a deal with MAM.

Wayne

From: Lonnie Benson <lonben@erols.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 10:10 AM
Subject: Spring Gear - Mounting Wheel

I am in the process of mounting my Matco wheels onto the axle

on the spring gear. I placed a thin washer supplied by MAM on the axle,
then the wheel, another thin washer, then the castellated nut. After
tightening the nut I find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an
eighth of an inch from the nut. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just
add more washers to move the nut further out on the axle?

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<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Lonnie, Most brakes will not hold, because
builders (and AME's) will put a new set of brakes on an aircraft and go off
flying. The first high speed brake application glazes the pads! Brake pads

need

to be conditioned by taxing at about 1200 to 1400 rpm, and dragging the brakes
with a steady pressure to maintain about 10MPH for the length of the runway.
Then let cool and repeat a few times. You will be amazed at the difference.

When

Bob tried to test fly Howards Rebel on Amphibs, the brakes(clevelands)

wouldn't

hold at all and he couldn't keep the plane on the crown of our runway.

Twice up

and down our strip (with us holding him straight at times) was enough to get
them working okay and holding. Even my old gold Matco's will hold my 150hp

Lyco

at full power and they have 5 1/2 years and 250 hours+ on them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Wayne </FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original Message-----</B><BR><B>From:
</B>Lonnie Benson <<A
href="mailto:lonben@erols.com">lonben@erols.com</A>><BR><B>To:

</B>Murphy

Rebel Builders List <<A

href="mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com">murphy-rebel@dcsol.com</A>><BR><B>Date:

</B>Monday, November 29, 1999 5:06 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Spring Gear -
Mounting Wheel<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Wayne: Thanks for your input.  My

Matco

wheels are silver and have tapered bearings.  When I tighten the axle
nut finger tight and take all the "wobble" out of the wheel, the
outer edge of the nut reaches the middle of the cotter pin hole.  A
couple of washers should take care of that problem.  I talked with
Elaine several months ago about a trade-in but my silver Matcos did not
qualify.  I wonder if there has been any problems with the silver
Matcos other than the fact that they will not hold the airplane during
run-up?  It will be some time before I will be ready to fly my

Rebel so

I have time to ponder the question of whether or not I should switch to

MAM

wheels and brakes.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:

5px">

<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original
Message-----</B><BR><B>From: </B>Wayne G. O'Shea <<A

href="mailto:oifa@irishfield.on.ca">oifa@irishfield.on.ca</A>><BR><B>To:

</B>Murphy Rebel Builders List <<A

href="mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com">murphy-rebel@dcsol.com</A>><BR><B>Date:

</B>Monday, November 29, 1999 12:50 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Spring
Gear - Mounting Wheel<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Lonnie, Do you have the old gold Matco
wheels or the newer alloy wheels mfg'd by Murphy?? The Matco wheels

have

straight roller bearings in them so only tighten the nut finger
tight(actually finger loose). Stop tightening as soon as nut/washer
combo touches the bearing.. If cotter won't hold nut in place, you

will

need to space out with washers. If you tighten the nut with a wrench,
you will need 4 new bearings before you finish your taxi tests as the
roller balls will chew out the bearings race edges! (don't ask me

how I

know!) I have over 250 hours on the old style gold wheels and I have
needed to install 2 bearings since new.(other than the above mentioned
4) My gold wheels also have a 1/4" thick squash plate inside and
outside to beef up the wheel hub. If you have Murphy's wheels, they

have

proper taper bearings in them and can be snugged up properly with a
wrench(while rotating the wheel) to seat the bearing properly. Same

deal

with the nut on these ones also for the cotter pin. If you don't have
the newer murphy wheels, I would highly suggest that before you finish
the gear installation, you aquire them and install them for a trouble
free future. They once had a deal to trade them in that I missed, but
maybe you can swing a deal with MAM.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Wayne</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial

size=2><B>From:

</B>Lonnie Benson <<A
href="mailto:lonben@erols.com">lonben@erols.com</A>><BR><B>To:
</B>Murphy Rebel Builders List <<A

href="mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com">murphy-rebel@dcsol.com</A>><BR><B>Date:

</B>Monday, November 29, 1999 10:10 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Spring

Gear -

Mounting Wheel<BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;

PADDING-LEFT: 5px"></FONT>

<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>I am in the process of mounting my
Matco wheels onto the axle on the spring gear.  I placed a

thin

washer supplied by MAM on the axle, then the wheel, another thin
washer, then the castellated nut.  After tightening the nut I
find that the hole for the cotter pin is about an eighth of an

inch

from the nut.  Am I doing something wrong?  Should I

just

add more washers to move the nut further out on the
axle?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000
size=2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*

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