The Murphy Builders Site

Hey everyone,

Lots of stuff in the archives yet after trying to use the stuff yesterday I'm still mystified how you guys spread it on mating surfaces. I spoke with the chemist at PRC DeSoto and was told emphatically that type B should not be used between skins and ribs in that if is formulated for fileting. Type C is a thinner formulation designed for this use but Spruce only sells one type so are you guys doing something with the type B to get it on the mating surfaces or are you using two different formulations for the tanks?

Thanks for the help.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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The chemist has probably never built an airplane either

B works just fine Allen. Guys here will tell you they use B and brushable
and some thinned etc. I use it just the way it comes out of the can (10/1 by
volume) mixed with a putty knife on a scrap piece of aluminum and spread
with the putty knife on rib flanges and Popsicle sticks to fillet seams. Has
NEVER been a problem!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "apoulsen" <apoulsen@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 9:04 PM
Subject: Pro seal again

Hey everyone,

Lots of stuff in the archives yet after trying to use the stuff yesterday

I'm still mystified how you guys spread it on mating surfaces. I spoke with
the chemist at PRC DeSoto and was told emphatically that type B should not
be used between skins and ribs in that if is formulated for fileting. Type C
is a thinner formulation designed for this use but Spruce only sells one
type so are you guys doing something with the type B to get it on the mating
surfaces or are you using two different formulations for the tanks?

Thanks for the help.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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Allen,

Class B I used mostly everywhere, applied using a 1x3 inch paint roller (cut the roller into 1 inch pieces) covers the area needed without excess mess. Used the same method applying zinc chromate as well.

Class B can be reduced with a chemical called toluene (max thinning of 15% by volume), have done this when no Class A at hand.

Best of luck to you.

Jeff


----- Original Message -----
From: apoulsen <apoulsen@comcast.net>
Date: Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:04 pm
Subject: Pro seal again

Hey everyone,

Lots of stuff in the archives yet after trying to use the stuff
yesterday I'm still mystified how you guys spread it on mating
surfaces. I spoke with the chemist at PRC DeSoto and was told
emphatically that type B should not be used between skins and ribs
in that if is formulated for fileting. Type C is a thinner
formulation designed for this use but Spruce only sells one type
so are you guys doing something with the type B to get it on the
mating surfaces or are you using two different formulations for
the tanks?

Thanks for the help.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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Screw driver, acid brush, popsicle stick, finger (two pairs of latex gloves)
B is fine with the thick pieces of material we build our tanks out of
and lets you filet at the same time.
The chemist would be correct if you were talking about joining .020
skins and greater rivet spacing.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hey everyone,

Lots of stuff in the archives yet after trying to use the stuff yesterday I'm still mystified how you guys spread it on mating surfaces. I spoke with the chemist at PRC DeSoto and was told emphatically that type B should not be used between skins and ribs in that if is formulated for fileting. Type C is a thinner formulation designed for this use but Spruce only sells one type so are you guys doing something with the type B to get it on the mating surfaces or are you using two different formulations for the tanks?

Thanks for the help.

Allen Poulsen
786R

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As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use between
the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike




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Mike:

We used Pro-Seal and it seemed to work very well. Have to let it set for a couple of days to cure tho. Held up good during the trimming of the excess metal to make the doors fit.

Steve H
Moose 213

Mike Rapoport <rapopor1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use between
the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike




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I shouldn't fire off quick answers anymore Mike...
however if you mean those sealing strips about an inch or so wide around
the outside edges of the door -mine are slipped between the door skin
and the frame and rivetted with epoxy primer.
Ken

Mike Rapoport wrote:

As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use between
the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pro seal again

I shouldn't fire off quick answers anymore Mike...
however if you mean those sealing strips about an inch or so wide around
the outside edges of the door -mine are slipped between the door skin
and the frame and rivetted with epoxy primer.
Ken

Mike Rapoport wrote:

As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use
between
the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike

Those are the ones! I have been mentally debating whether to use epoxy
primer (easy and clean) or proseal (always a mess for me).

Thanks!




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Thanks Steve!


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@sbcglobal.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: Pro seal again

Mike:

We used Pro-Seal and it seemed to work very well. Have to let it set for
a couple of days to cure tho. Held up good during the trimming of the
excess metal to make the doors fit.

Steve H
Moose 213

Mike Rapoport <rapopor1@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use
between
the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike




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Proseal does a good job. Rivet it together and leave clamped with spring
clamps around the perimeter till it cures. Clean the edge with a knife
afterwards. U are referring to the door jam overlap on the door skins where
you reinforce with .032 or similar?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Rapoport" <rapopor1@ix.netcom.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pro seal again

As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use

between

the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike




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Mike:
I used 3M DP-190 epoxy. Not as flexible as Pro-Seal, but not as rigid
(higher modulus) as some epoxies. If I was not a retired 3M employee, I'd
probably use Pro Seal.
Tom Packard
SR043
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Rapoport" <rapopor1@ix.netcom.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Pro seal again

As long as we are on the topic of adhesives, what did everybody use

between

the door skin and the doubler that goes around the edges?

Mike




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