Rebel- Pics of improved 4 door cowl
Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:02 pm
Hi !
I've posted several pictures of an improved version of
the standard factory 4 door cowl for the Rebel, on an O-235.
They're in Rebel cowling - 209.
Brian Godden did this one for a builder - it's a lot
stiffer, with the square tube frame, and he used 5 CamLock
fasteners per side. For more info, Brian_Godden@hotmail.com
(I think he and Doug are still booking assist time ...)
He asked me to pass the photos along, in the hope they
may make it a bit easier for the next builder. Hope you see
several very useful tricks in these pics. I like the tapered
front scoop ...
One further refinement might be to add a strip of .025
aluminum about 2" wide, running all the way around inside the
rear of the fiberglass nosebowl, 1" under the cowl, 1" extending
out to the rear. Rivet this strip to the nosebowl. The top
cowl can then rest on the rear of the strip (on anti-chafe tape),
giving a flush top. If you do it the factory way, with the
top resting on top of the fiberglass, it will cut into it
over time, and doesn't give a tight seal ... Also, the
strip will stiffen the fiberglass, preventing cracks over time.
-----------------||--- -----------------------------
( ^ ==||======== ^ top cowl
( | ^strip rivetted to nosebowl
( <--- nosebowl
......bobp
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I've posted several pictures of an improved version of
the standard factory 4 door cowl for the Rebel, on an O-235.
They're in Rebel cowling - 209.
Brian Godden did this one for a builder - it's a lot
stiffer, with the square tube frame, and he used 5 CamLock
fasteners per side. For more info, Brian_Godden@hotmail.com
(I think he and Doug are still booking assist time ...)
He asked me to pass the photos along, in the hope they
may make it a bit easier for the next builder. Hope you see
several very useful tricks in these pics. I like the tapered
front scoop ...
One further refinement might be to add a strip of .025
aluminum about 2" wide, running all the way around inside the
rear of the fiberglass nosebowl, 1" under the cowl, 1" extending
out to the rear. Rivet this strip to the nosebowl. The top
cowl can then rest on the rear of the strip (on anti-chafe tape),
giving a flush top. If you do it the factory way, with the
top resting on top of the fiberglass, it will cut into it
over time, and doesn't give a tight seal ... Also, the
strip will stiffen the fiberglass, preventing cracks over time.
-----------------||--- -----------------------------
( ^ ==||======== ^ top cowl
( | ^strip rivetted to nosebowl
( <--- nosebowl
......bobp
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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