I would find it harder getting the plastic off on a soft surface such as
carpet. Use your table, go slow and careful. Put a lot of pressure on the
uncovered skin with one hand very near to the plastic where you are pulling
on it. Keep the hand that is pulling on the plastic moving to stay close to
the skin. In other words, don't get a hold of the plastic and keep pulling
until your hand is a foot or more from the skin. Pull a couple of inches
then grab again right at the point it's stuck to the skin. Keep the hand
that's on the uncovered skin moving too to stay close to the plastic you are
removing. Don't pull straight up. Pull close to parallel to the skin.
Another thing you can try is to split the width of the plastic you are
removing into strips, say about 12-18 inches wide. Start pulling and when
you get it going, grab the part that is separated from the skin and split it
so you aren't trying to roll off a four foot wide piece. Pull at an angle
on the left side of your strip, then follow with the right side. Keep going
back and forth like that instead of pulling straight down on the strip you
are removing. Hope this helps.
Mike Kimball
044SR
-----Original Message-----
From:
mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:
mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jesse
Jenks
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 4:53 PM
To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Skin blemishes
Mike,
I am probably being oversensitive, and if it would have been on a top skin I
would probably have used it, but I will try to make a new skin for this one
and try to be more careful in the future. Can you give me any advice on how
to avoid causing the dents? I was thinking about rolling off the plastic on
carpet, do you think that would help? Did you figure out a good way to do
it? My kit has been sitting for a while, and some of the plastic is falling
off on it's own, but some is really stuck on.
Thanks
Jesse
From: "Mike Betti" <
mbetti@up.net>
Reply-To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Skin blemishes
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 19:37:23 -0500
I had the same problem doing the same thing. I took a small rolling pin
with
some crisco on it and used a smooth piece of formica counter top underneath
it. It took the edge off of them more than anything. Maybe mine is not as
bad, but like Al said, I don't even notice them anymore.
Mike Betti
Elite 771
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <
jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Skin blemishes
Thanks for the replies guys,
I would like to have hope that it would be all OK once riveted in place,
but
I really don't think so. I don't want to cringe every time I look at my
right wing. There is a pattern of small dents about 6" long that repeats
with even spacing for about half the length of the skin. It may be
possible
to burnish them out or something, so I guess I should ask around as you
say.
It looks pretty bad to me though.
The skin is already drilled to #30 along with the ribs, stringers, and
spars. If I started over with a new pre punched skin then would I just
drill
it out to #30 while off the structure and hope the holes line up? I
would
be
worried that the holes I already had drilled in the structure might be
slightly misaligned with the new skin because they would have not been
enlarged from #40 to #30 at the same time. That's why I thought it would
be
better to start with a blank sheet and use the original skin as a
template.
Although I would have to drill to #30 on the first go, the holes should
be
accurately located by the original skin. Also the holes around the tank
area
where the tank skin joins to the main skin are not pre punched, but
where
added by me, and would not be easy to locate without using the original
skin
as a template.
Jesse
From: Jim Cole <
jcole@rangroup.com>
Reply-To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Skin blemishes
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 22:27:34 -0400
Hi Jesse,
I wanted to extend my tanks to 5 bays from the original 3 bays so I
ordered a new piece of 6061 from a local supplier in Toronto and used
the old skin as a template. They cut it to size and I had a large table
and a piece smooth press board underneath so that I could drill through
with out worrying about it. It worked fine - especially after I bought a
cobalt #40 drill that was sharp and stayed sharp but certainly was time
consuming. I used clecos and clecoed it to the template and the table as
I progress in a sequence from one end to the other.
I'm with Bob though - check with someone with experience locally because
you just might be surprised at what can be done.
Good Luck
Jim (now rebel 333)
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