Moose engine mounts etc. was RE: moose elevator
Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:51 am
Bob,
I purchased the stainless YAK exhaust from Carl Hayes. I did have to weld
on the extensions that come out the bottom.
Somewhere I should have the numbers I used on the engine mount as far as
distance from the firewall and position of the ring or engine center. As
far as the five mount holes I took the firewall off the fast build fuselage
and laid it right on my jig and transferred the holes. I am glad I did
because when I took the firewall off you could see they did not get the
holes on their marks when they drilled them (obviously there is enough flex
in the MAM mount legs to account for slight differences in firewall holes).
The center distances of the firewall mount holes are in the manual
somewhere, I believe in the fuselage building section.
My jig is toast as I used some of the steel to make a brace that hold up the
front of the airplane for painting and I probably wouldn't be able to make
anyone else a mount right now. The jig was made from 4x2 steel as you can
see in the pictures. I made the ring stand off out of the same with just
some angles on the top to bolt the ring onto. I did build in some offset.
I look up all those numbers tonight and send them to you.
I'll look up the oil tank dimensions too. It is 5052 aluminum, same as
welded aluminum gas tanks. It could be made of light gauge steel also, MAM
is steel.
As far as MIG vs TIG you will find varying opinions. Some say they would
never fly behind something MIG welded, not knowing that all certified Maules
(from the M-4 in the 1960's on) are entirely MIG welded with some fuselages
in service with over 15,000 hours on them (that info comes from Brent
Maule). I don't know if that includes their engine mounts but I suspect it
does. You could email them and ask I am sure.
Sorry if that wasn't much help. I will look up the numbers I used tonight.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
bscheube@dcsol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 1:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: moose elevator
Hi Scott,
thanks for the answer on the elevator. I have another question for you...did
you fabricate the exhaust pipes for your engine? I saw were you did fab your
carb heat, your engine mount, etc., but did not see the exhaust fab? Also
did
you keep the jig for the mount and would you be interested in making another
mount and selling it to me or giving me the dimensions of mount and jig so I
could do it myself? (also the oil tank). I have a Miller 250 MIG and a
friend
is a welder (cert). I see that you did yours with a TIG would the MIG make
that much difference? I would have my welder friend with me and check my
work. Also I will get you new photos that I keep forgeting about.
Thanks Scott.
Bob Scheuber
Moose/191
-> Bob, sounds like you are on the right track. I did not do this change; I
-> trimmed the vertical doublers and added channels, which was another
option.
-> Trimming the V on the elevator is better though. It sounds like you have
the
-> newer doublers so I would just extend that line down the elevator notch.
I
-> am pretty sure if it is 1/2 inch back all along the V it will be more
than
-> enough.
->
-> The problem was caused (I believe) by the upgraded spar doublers on the
back
-> of the Moose horizontal stab spar moving the hinges back which put the
-> elevator farther aft than the original SR's.
->
-> FWIW
-> Scott
-> Moose 174
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
-> bscheube@dcsol.com
-> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 12:36 PM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: moose elevator
->
-> Hello all,
-> I am putting the moose mod doublers (EL451) on the elevator the
predrilled
-> pilot holes in the new doublers do not line up with the pilot holes or
the
-> width of the V notch in the skin? It looks like I will have to trim the
skin
->
-> back apx. 1/2" all the way around the V notch and redrill the pilot
holes? I
->
-> found on Mikes builder site that he said this wider opening was for spar
-> doublers on the vertical stabilizer. For those of you who have done this
-> upgrade how did you make the cut and how did you come up with the layout
for
->
-> the cut? (I figure I can use the el450 Rib and cleco it to the EL451
-> doublers,
-> which is attached to the spar using it as a guide for the new cut on the
-> skin). I just want to check, as cutting the skin is a one shot deal.
-> Thanks ahead of time for your response.
-> Bob Scheuber
-> Moose/191
->
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> Subscription services located at:
-> https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
-> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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->
->
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I purchased the stainless YAK exhaust from Carl Hayes. I did have to weld
on the extensions that come out the bottom.
Somewhere I should have the numbers I used on the engine mount as far as
distance from the firewall and position of the ring or engine center. As
far as the five mount holes I took the firewall off the fast build fuselage
and laid it right on my jig and transferred the holes. I am glad I did
because when I took the firewall off you could see they did not get the
holes on their marks when they drilled them (obviously there is enough flex
in the MAM mount legs to account for slight differences in firewall holes).
The center distances of the firewall mount holes are in the manual
somewhere, I believe in the fuselage building section.
My jig is toast as I used some of the steel to make a brace that hold up the
front of the airplane for painting and I probably wouldn't be able to make
anyone else a mount right now. The jig was made from 4x2 steel as you can
see in the pictures. I made the ring stand off out of the same with just
some angles on the top to bolt the ring onto. I did build in some offset.
I look up all those numbers tonight and send them to you.
I'll look up the oil tank dimensions too. It is 5052 aluminum, same as
welded aluminum gas tanks. It could be made of light gauge steel also, MAM
is steel.
As far as MIG vs TIG you will find varying opinions. Some say they would
never fly behind something MIG welded, not knowing that all certified Maules
(from the M-4 in the 1960's on) are entirely MIG welded with some fuselages
in service with over 15,000 hours on them (that info comes from Brent
Maule). I don't know if that includes their engine mounts but I suspect it
does. You could email them and ask I am sure.
Sorry if that wasn't much help. I will look up the numbers I used tonight.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
bscheube@dcsol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 1:02 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: moose elevator
Hi Scott,
thanks for the answer on the elevator. I have another question for you...did
you fabricate the exhaust pipes for your engine? I saw were you did fab your
carb heat, your engine mount, etc., but did not see the exhaust fab? Also
did
you keep the jig for the mount and would you be interested in making another
mount and selling it to me or giving me the dimensions of mount and jig so I
could do it myself? (also the oil tank). I have a Miller 250 MIG and a
friend
is a welder (cert). I see that you did yours with a TIG would the MIG make
that much difference? I would have my welder friend with me and check my
work. Also I will get you new photos that I keep forgeting about.
Thanks Scott.
Bob Scheuber
Moose/191
-> Bob, sounds like you are on the right track. I did not do this change; I
-> trimmed the vertical doublers and added channels, which was another
option.
-> Trimming the V on the elevator is better though. It sounds like you have
the
-> newer doublers so I would just extend that line down the elevator notch.
I
-> am pretty sure if it is 1/2 inch back all along the V it will be more
than
-> enough.
->
-> The problem was caused (I believe) by the upgraded spar doublers on the
back
-> of the Moose horizontal stab spar moving the hinges back which put the
-> elevator farther aft than the original SR's.
->
-> FWIW
-> Scott
-> Moose 174
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
-> bscheube@dcsol.com
-> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 12:36 PM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: moose elevator
->
-> Hello all,
-> I am putting the moose mod doublers (EL451) on the elevator the
predrilled
-> pilot holes in the new doublers do not line up with the pilot holes or
the
-> width of the V notch in the skin? It looks like I will have to trim the
skin
->
-> back apx. 1/2" all the way around the V notch and redrill the pilot
holes? I
->
-> found on Mikes builder site that he said this wider opening was for spar
-> doublers on the vertical stabilizer. For those of you who have done this
-> upgrade how did you make the cut and how did you come up with the layout
for
->
-> the cut? (I figure I can use the el450 Rib and cleco it to the EL451
-> doublers,
-> which is attached to the spar using it as a guide for the new cut on the
-> skin). I just want to check, as cutting the skin is a one shot deal.
-> Thanks ahead of time for your response.
-> Bob Scheuber
-> Moose/191
->
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> Subscription services located at:
-> https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
-> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->
->
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