Hints
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:27 pm
How about we try this then. Please briefly add your idea or corrections and copy
it or send it to the group with the subject "Hints". This is an attempt to
create a list of cautions and hints. It is just some ideas that others may wish
to consider and it has not been approved by MAM. I'll keep a master list up to
date and repost it periodically until someone says to stop or it appears on a
website. We'll assume that the comments refer to the standard Rebel unless you
indicate otherwise. First one is from Doug and I'll add some that I've
collected.
- Need a "Caution note" in the manual when it tells you to drill the
stringers under the skin. Use a drill stop or tape around the drill bit
to keep from going too deep and damaging the curl flange on the stringer.
- the hex drive deburring bit from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool ($11.00) in a
electric screwdriver is helpful. It is a one hole (one cutting edge),
chatterless, 100 degree cutter (not a fluted device). A high speed drill and a
sharp drill bit also reduce the amount of deburring needed. A small smooth file
is helpful for places with difficult access.
- drill all holes #40 first and then enlarge them
- when planning and cutting the fuel tank opening in the wing skin, make sure
you allow enough space for proper rivet edge distance at the aft cut. The rear
tank bulkhead tends to interfere.
- on an "older Rebel" consider upgrading the bottom corner wraps between the
cage and the firewall from .020" thick to the newer .025 or .032" ones that MAM
has available. Some guys also use a thicker than .020 Fus-30 tailcone and a
thicker than .020 Fus-26 (under the door).
- proseal lasts longer in a freezer than in a refrigerator. Make sure it is warm
enough not to condense moisture before you open it. A triple beam scale is
useful for mixing.
- no lubricant on delrin bearings, they might swell, sand them if too tight.
- you can make or buy bungee rings for the conventional gear rather than using
one long piece of bungee material
- consider making the flap handle so that the handle slopes forward and blocks
the view less (a dog leg shape)
- make sure the Rebel has at least 27 degrees ?? of elevator up travel.
Sufficient up travel is more important than down travel.
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it or send it to the group with the subject "Hints". This is an attempt to
create a list of cautions and hints. It is just some ideas that others may wish
to consider and it has not been approved by MAM. I'll keep a master list up to
date and repost it periodically until someone says to stop or it appears on a
website. We'll assume that the comments refer to the standard Rebel unless you
indicate otherwise. First one is from Doug and I'll add some that I've
collected.
- Need a "Caution note" in the manual when it tells you to drill the
stringers under the skin. Use a drill stop or tape around the drill bit
to keep from going too deep and damaging the curl flange on the stringer.
- the hex drive deburring bit from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool ($11.00) in a
electric screwdriver is helpful. It is a one hole (one cutting edge),
chatterless, 100 degree cutter (not a fluted device). A high speed drill and a
sharp drill bit also reduce the amount of deburring needed. A small smooth file
is helpful for places with difficult access.
- drill all holes #40 first and then enlarge them
- when planning and cutting the fuel tank opening in the wing skin, make sure
you allow enough space for proper rivet edge distance at the aft cut. The rear
tank bulkhead tends to interfere.
- on an "older Rebel" consider upgrading the bottom corner wraps between the
cage and the firewall from .020" thick to the newer .025 or .032" ones that MAM
has available. Some guys also use a thicker than .020 Fus-30 tailcone and a
thicker than .020 Fus-26 (under the door).
- proseal lasts longer in a freezer than in a refrigerator. Make sure it is warm
enough not to condense moisture before you open it. A triple beam scale is
useful for mixing.
- no lubricant on delrin bearings, they might swell, sand them if too tight.
- you can make or buy bungee rings for the conventional gear rather than using
one long piece of bungee material
- consider making the flap handle so that the handle slopes forward and blocks
the view less (a dog leg shape)
- make sure the Rebel has at least 27 degrees ?? of elevator up travel.
Sufficient up travel is more important than down travel.
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*
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Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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