The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:38 am**

Thanks Ralph & Bob for you advise.The aircraft will ocassionally be used
in salt water.As of now i plan to dip rivets,assembly wet using epoxy
primer.Prime & 1 finish coat all the inside off fus & wings.i saw one
rebel in newfoundland that had rust showing on all rivets on top off
wing.Anyone seen this before.Not sure what procedure he used for
painting.

Regards: Alvin

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:38 am**

Alvin,

Yes, I have seen a couple of unpainted aircraft with rust coming out of most
of the rivets, looks crummy running down the sides of the fuselage. All
were dipped before being pulled. It didn't start to show for a couple of
years but now every time I see it, it is worse.

If I was going to leave my aircraft unpainted I would carefully fill every
rivet head to seal the mandrel from the outside.

I would think once the mandrel starts to rust it will come through even when
painted over later.

I do know there are some out there unpainted and not rusting.

Scott
Moose 174

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Alvin and Glenys Adams
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 3:55 PM
To: rebel
Subject: rivet dipping.

Thanks Ralph & Bob for you advise.The aircraft will ocassionally be used
in salt water.As of now i plan to dip rivets,assembly wet using epoxy
primer.Prime & 1 finish coat all the inside off fus & wings.i saw one
rebel in newfoundland that had rust showing on all rivets on top off
wing.Anyone seen this before.Not sure what procedure he used for
painting.

Regards: Alvin

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:38 am**

Hello Alvin& Glenys,
I elected to dip my rivets in Proseal before pulling; that way I am hoping to seal the rivets, as well as to "glue" the rivets in, to hopefully avoid future "smoking" rivets. Also using proseal on the mating surfaces of the skins to the ribs etc. As well on all critical mating surfaces, such as ribs to spars etc, I am using a two part multi bond adhesive from Locktite(Thorton Industries)part number 33064, as well as riveting. Tensile shear strenght at 0.002" gap of 2700psi on metal to metal. Overkill, most probably yes; but if it is good enough for NASA & Boeing well yes!!! I will probably finish up with a half metal half composite aircraft by the time that I am finished.

Kind regards,
Greg. Elite 724.

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:38 am**

Alvin
I have been using a needle and surenge (not spelled right) and filling the
hole with fiberglass resin and it sticks really well. Wash the rivet line
with acetone and a small brush. Reminds me of a guy cleaning a bathroom
with a tooth brush. Believe Tommy Jones did this too. Using the fine end
of the needle allows the hole to fill from the bottom leaving no air bubble.
Seals the mandrel and leaves a cleaner looking head.

Steve W. Rebel 637

From: <cosmedi@bigpond.net.au>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: rivet dipping.
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 9:53:39 +1000

Hello Alvin& Glenys,
I elected to dip my rivets in Proseal before pulling; that way I am hoping
to seal the rivets, as well as to "glue" the rivets in, to hopefully avoid
future "smoking" rivets. Also using proseal on the mating surfaces of the
skins to the ribs etc. As well on all critical mating surfaces, such as
ribs to spars etc, I am using a two part multi bond adhesive from
Locktite(Thorton Industries)part number 33064, as well as riveting. Tensile
shear strenght at 0.002" gap of 2700psi on metal to metal. Overkill, most
probably yes; but if it is good enough for NASA & Boeing well yes!!! I will
probably finish up with a half metal half composite aircraft by the time
that I am finished.

Kind regards,
Greg. Elite 724.

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