The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Help...........,
I messed up the spring gear mounting and looking for advice. First when
I drilled the top of the fus5 to 7/16 for the crush spacers, I had the 2
doubler plates on top and drilled through them also. So I made the crush
spacers that much longer to compensate. I don't know what kind of down
force there is trying to pull that saddle bolt penny washer down
through. Think this is ok or maybe add some sort of doubler on top of
the present 2?
On the same subject I also screwed up the alignment of that same 7/16
hole. It appears that the top doublers didn't give me such a good
template drilling and now the saddle bolts and crush spacers are not
straight with regards to the bottom holes! I was thinking maybe adjust
the top of the hole to make the spacer true in the 2" square tube and
then tig weld the old part of the hole closed, maybe even weld to the
crush spacer.
Any advice welcome and thanks in advance as usual.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Do yourself a BIG favour right now and throw away those crush tubes and
replace with a solid block of aluminum (or oak) machined to fit inside the
tubes to spread the bolt load. Doesn't take that big of a gopher hole to
pull the front bolts/crush tube and all right out thru the floor to ruin you
day. Any disbeliever's...I can of course show you the pictures!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:45 PM
Subject: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Help...........,
I messed up the spring gear mounting and looking for advice. First when
I drilled the top of the fus5 to 7/16 for the crush spacers, I had the 2
doubler plates on top and drilled through them also. So I made the crush
spacers that much longer to compensate. I don't know what kind of down
force there is trying to pull that saddle bolt penny washer down
through. Think this is ok or maybe add some sort of doubler on top of
the present 2?
On the same subject I also screwed up the alignment of that same 7/16
hole. It appears that the top doublers didn't give me such a good
template drilling and now the saddle bolts and crush spacers are not
straight with regards to the bottom holes! I was thinking maybe adjust
the top of the hole to make the spacer true in the 2" square tube and
then tig weld the old part of the hole closed, maybe even weld to the
crush spacer.
Any advice welcome and thanks in advance as usual.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Good idea Wayne, that should solve my dilema.
Thanks,
Mike Betti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Do yourself a BIG favour right now and throw away those crush tubes and
replace with a solid block of aluminum (or oak) machined to fit inside the
tubes to spread the bolt load. Doesn't take that big of a gopher hole to
pull the front bolts/crush tube and all right out thru the floor to ruin
you
day. Any disbeliever's...I can of course show you the pictures!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:45 PM
Subject: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Help...........,
I messed up the spring gear mounting and looking for advice. First when
I drilled the top of the fus5 to 7/16 for the crush spacers, I had the 2
doubler plates on top and drilled through them also. So I made the crush
spacers that much longer to compensate. I don't know what kind of down
force there is trying to pull that saddle bolt penny washer down
through. Think this is ok or maybe add some sort of doubler on top of
the present 2?
On the same subject I also screwed up the alignment of that same 7/16
hole. It appears that the top doublers didn't give me such a good
template drilling and now the saddle bolts and crush spacers are not
straight with regards to the bottom holes! I was thinking maybe adjust
the top of the hole to make the spacer true in the 2" square tube and
then tig weld the old part of the hole closed, maybe even weld to the
crush spacer.
Any advice welcome and thanks in advance as usual.
Mike Betti
771E

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Mike:

This is a weak area at best, so I'm afraid you're into new 2 x 2s, plus, as
the other guys say, crush blocks instead of spacers. I'd say aluminum only,
forget oak. What's this about 7/16" holes? They should be 5/16". And
start them off at 3/16", right through the tubes and crush blocks. In fact,
keep them at 3/16" unitil you're ready to drill the gear saddles. The floor
skin doublers need some extra spacers in this area to maintain a uniform
thickness. Then, of course there is the factory mod to put a piece of angle
on the top/front of the forward 2x2. Also, the instructions say to drill
holes in both the front and rear 2x2 for access to the heads of the AN3
bolts. That really weakens the front one, so drill them in the rear 2x2
only.

Regards, Al.

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Thanks,
Instructions are for 7/16 holes in the top of the 2X2 for the crush spacers
to drop into. This solid crush block you and Wayne mention, I take it the
block will not fill the entire tube ID in both directions due to the AN3
connection bolts in that area? Also, how long should the blocks be?
Boy, I can see the second airplane I build will have less problems!
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Mike:

This is a weak area at best, so I'm afraid you're into new 2 x 2s, plus,
as
the other guys say, crush blocks instead of spacers. I'd say aluminum
only,
forget oak. What's this about 7/16" holes? They should be 5/16". And
start them off at 3/16", right through the tubes and crush blocks. In
fact,
keep them at 3/16" unitil you're ready to drill the gear saddles. The
floor
skin doublers need some extra spacers in this area to maintain a uniform
thickness. Then, of course there is the factory mod to put a piece of
angle
on the top/front of the forward 2x2. Also, the instructions say to drill
holes in both the front and rear 2x2 for access to the heads of the AN3
bolts. That really weakens the front one, so drill them in the rear 2x2
only.

Regards, Al.

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

I'm looking for the point where I need to rivet the floor and doublers to
the bottom of the fus5's. I'm concerned about the fus420 forward floor as to
where it ties in, does it pick up a line of rv1619 rivets into the fus5
also? I read ahead but can't get any reference to this.
Also, did I understand you Al, you have to shim just above the gear saddles
to keep the surface even?
Thanks all,
Mike Betti
771E
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Mike:

This is a weak area at best, so I'm afraid you're into new 2 x 2s, plus,
as
the other guys say, crush blocks instead of spacers. I'd say aluminum
only,
forget oak. What's this about 7/16" holes? They should be 5/16". And
start them off at 3/16", right through the tubes and crush blocks. In
fact,
keep them at 3/16" unitil you're ready to drill the gear saddles. The
floor
skin doublers need some extra spacers in this area to maintain a uniform
thickness. Then, of course there is the factory mod to put a piece of
angle
on the top/front of the forward 2x2. Also, the instructions say to drill
holes in both the front and rear 2x2 for access to the heads of the AN3
bolts. That really weakens the front one, so drill them in the rear 2x2
only.

Regards, Al.

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:35 am**

Mike,

Give Keith a call at Montana Float Co ... he can make you the same aluminum
blocks I put in my carry throughs ... agree w/ Wayne, don't mess with those
crush tubes. There are pictures of them on my repair/mod site ... somewhere
www.aacnet.com/elite

Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 4:00 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Do yourself a BIG favour right now and throw away those crush tubes and
replace with a solid block of aluminum (or oak) machined to fit inside the
tubes to spread the bolt load. Doesn't take that big of a gopher hole to
pull the front bolts/crush tube and all right out thru the floor to ruin you
day. Any disbeliever's...I can of course show you the pictures!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:45 PM
Subject: Spring gear mount Elite

** Check your subject, does it still reflect the message? **

Help...........,
I messed up the spring gear mounting and looking for advice. First when
I drilled the top of the fus5 to 7/16 for the crush spacers, I had the 2
doubler plates on top and drilled through them also. So I made the crush
spacers that much longer to compensate. I don't know what kind of down
force there is trying to pull that saddle bolt penny washer down
through. Think this is ok or maybe add some sort of doubler on top of
the present 2?
On the same subject I also screwed up the alignment of that same 7/16
hole. It appears that the top doublers didn't give me such a good
template drilling and now the saddle bolts and crush spacers are not
straight with regards to the bottom holes! I was thinking maybe adjust
the top of the hole to make the spacer true in the 2" square tube and
then tig weld the old part of the hole closed, maybe even weld to the
crush spacer.
Any advice welcome and thanks in advance as usual.
Mike Betti
771E

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