Welcome !!! Glad you decided to come out of hiding !! The group could
certainly benefit from your years of experience and helpful advice. (We've
missed you, and the rest of the Barrie group, at the builders meetings !)
Next one is November 14th (hint, hint ....)
I suspect there might be some interest in your wheel-penetration skis
here, as well.
Glad to hear there was no visible wear on the gear bushings - that was
one of my big worries. Do you have the brass bushings on them ?
I really would like to see someone making a stacked rubber biscuit gear
like that shown on that German "Rebel rip-off" - maybe it could be used on
the amphib floats, as well !!!
I agree COMPLETELY with your comments on cowlings !! About time more
folks were more concerned with easy maintenance than perceived good looks !!
And I'm always MORE than happy to have someone else supporting the Rotax
912 ... :-) :-) (Cheap, FUN flying !!)
MUCH rather FLY than FIX !! ;-) But I'm glad some people are
making the effort to refine the Subarus - I have enjoyed flying them.
They do represent superior technology, but I agree that there seem to be
some pretty "optimistic" horespower claims coming from some corners -
although not as many as in the past. (The 'bad guys' have been going broke !)
Keep 'em flying !
.....bobp
------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:07 PM 10/15/99 -0400, you wrote:
Hello Bill and All, Wayne O'Shea here! I've been sitting in the back ground
reading the archives for quite some time and have decided to join the list.
Not sure if it's because the archives are not being updated or that I'm
tired of Bob picking on my compression spring gear!(just kidding Bob
everyone has their own opinon of everything)
If you have been to Oshkosh you have seen my work, 1st Rebel built from
April93 to June 1995 (976 hours crate to air) and flown to Oshkosh '95 only
to be parked in row 136 waaaay down at the end of the field. The last 3
years(2 of which won builders choice) you have seen Howard Hanfords Rebel on
Amphibious floats that I did considerable work on and also fabricated and
installed his floats. I have also built (in less than 700 hours) an advanced
ultralight model of the rebel(which is no different that a full blown one
other than no rear floor, the wing spars are one gauge lighter and a Rotax
912). Currently doing final assembly on a Rebel that was basically destroyed
when cart wheeled on floats. I have completely reconstructed this aircraft
to better than new condition with a 0 timed O-320-E2D(originally had a
Subaru) and a new Sensenich prop(ouch, 3 big bills). I also have my original
Rebel in my shop with the original O-235-C 100HP removed, and currently
reinforcing the firewall to take the 0 timed O-320-C2A I have for it.(thats
a O-320-B1 derated from 160hp to 150hp in case your curious! The engine shop
thought I was nuts, but have you ever tried finding 100LL when you are on
floats?). (my mags failed on the O-235-C and it was a good enough excuse!) I
removed the gear to facilitate installing some new lower corner wraps and by
the way Bob the pivot holes in the gear legs are still as tight as they were
in 1995.
Cowlings!!!!! Oh yah! My original Rebel used the fiberglass nose bowl and 4
aluminun doors. Beautiful for inspecting and working on the aircraft. Does
take considerable time to fabricate compared to the speed cowl though. When
you do the nose bowl, ring the bowl with a 40thou piece of aluminum sticking
out about an inch to close the doors onto. This allows them to be flush with
the fiberglass and not sitting on top of the fiberglass. Piano hinge wires
were replaced with one size smaller S.S. wires to facilitate easier
installlation and removal. My nose bowl is still crackless to this point in
time, don't imagine A/C spruces supplier lays it up any better. Price would
be the key. Howard Hanfords rebel(oshkosh winner) has the speed cowl and the
way Howard had me do it is a pain in the butt when you want to remove it!
Especially at the dock(a tarp has to be spread between floats to make sure
none of the camlocks are lost in the lake) The ultralight rebel has a lower
fiberglass section and then 2 aluminum doors on top. Works quite well as
long as you sling the radiator on the 912 and mount the oil cooler to the
engine so the lower section can be removed. Murphy's manual has you mount
the rad and the cooler to the cowling so you will never remove it again!!!!
The rebuild that I just put the O-320-E2D onto was done using the speed
cowl. Piano hinges installed on the inside of the cowl, with the hinge wire
slipped through the very nose of the cowl down each side to peg the 2 halfs
together. Then AN525-1032 screw around the firewall. This is better than
Howards, but still not as nice as the original old piper type nose bowl and
4 doors. With the old style cowl you can even change the oil without
removing any of the cowl. Just open a lower door! So if you want sleek looks
and no measurable speed increase install the speed cowl(although you will
never open it up to do maintenance until its to late!) If you want an
installation that allows you to easily do preflights, maint. etc use the
bowl and doors. But, as we all get lazy, still install an oil door in the
right top door panel for an easy quick oil check!
Enough rambling, don't know how often I will be checking in with my work
schedule, but hope I helped somehow. I will be sending one more e-mail
seperately today regarding the tail post. Oh ya, E-mails scaring people that
are working along at a good pace(2 1/2 weeks and well into a wing) and
telling them it's going to take 3000 hours don't help moral for getting the
job done! Total time depends on certain levels of mechanical inclindness(if
thats a word). I built my first street rod by the time I was turning 15 and
had to wait a year to be able to drive it. I graduated with honours in
Electro-Mechanical Engineering and have been working with my hands daily to
this date. This background allows me to build at the rate I do(and I also
run an Injection Moulding Company). When all the airframe parts are
done(wings, tail feathers and fuselage) you are basically half way there!
The other half is you engine installation, panel installation,struts,
fairings and wing tips. So base your total time by this. A paint job tackled
by yourself with an experience helper will add another 2 or 3 weeks to your
aircraft, but do it now as you will be having so much fun flying it, you
will never paint it!!!!!!! I have a large variety of aircraft at my disposal
to fly including some Ex-Yugoslavian airforce recon. aircraft. 340 H.P
Supercharged STOL Monsters, but none are as fun to fly s the trusty old
Rebel so keep on plugging away!
Regards, Wayne G. O'Shea
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1 http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content='"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=GENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Hello Bill and All, Wayne O'Shea here! I've
been
sitting in the back ground reading the archives for quite some time and have
decided to join the list. Not sure if it's because the archives are not being
updated or that I'm tired of Bob picking on my compression spring gear!(just
kidding Bob everyone has their own opinon of everything) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>If you have been to Oshkosh you have seen my
work, 1st Rebel built from April93 to June 1995 (976 hours crate to air) and
flown to Oshkosh '95 only to be parked in row 136 waaaay down at the end of
the
field. The last 3 years(2 of which won builders choice) you have seen Howard
Hanfords Rebel on Amphibious floats that I did considerable work on and also
fabricated and installed his floats. I have also built (in less than 700
hours)
an advanced ultralight model of the rebel(which is no different that a full
blown one other than no rear floor, the wing spars are one gauge lighter and a
Rotax 912). Currently doing final assembly on a Rebel that was basically
destroyed when cart wheeled on floats. I have completely reconstructed this
aircraft to better than new condition with a 0 timed O-320-E2D(originally
had a
Subaru) and a new Sensenich prop(ouch, 3 big bills). I also have my original
Rebel in my shop with the original O-235-C 100HP removed, and currently
reinforcing the firewall to take the 0 timed O-320-C2A I have for it.(thats a
O-320-B1 derated from 160hp to 150hp in case your curious! The engine shop
thought I was nuts, but have you ever tried finding 100LL when you are on
floats?). (my mags failed on the O-235-C and it was a good enough excuse!) I
removed the gear to facilitate installing some new lower corner wraps and
by the
way Bob the pivot holes in the gear legs are still as tight as they were in
1995.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Cowlings!!!!! Oh yah! My original Rebel
used the
fiberglass nose bowl and 4 aluminun doors. Beautiful for inspecting and
working
on the aircraft. Does take considerable time to fabricate compared to the
speed
cowl though. When you do the nose bowl, ring the bowl with a 40thou piece of
aluminum sticking out about an inch to close the doors onto. This allows
them to
be flush with the fiberglass and not sitting on top of the fiberglass. Piano
hinge wires were replaced with one size smaller S.S. wires to facilitate
easier
installlation and removal. My nose bowl is still crackless to this point in
time, don't imagine A/C spruces supplier lays it up any better. Price would be
the key. Howard Hanfords rebel(oshkosh winner) has the speed cowl and the way
Howard had me do it is a pain in the butt when you want to remove it!
Especially
at the dock(a tarp has to be spread between floats to make sure none of the
camlocks are lost in the lake) The ultralight rebel has a lower fiberglass
section and then 2 aluminum doors on top. Works quite well as long as you
sling
the radiator on the 912 and mount the oil cooler to the engine so the lower
section can be removed. Murphy's manual has you mount the rad and the
cooler to
the cowling so you will never remove it again!!!! The rebuild that I just put
the O-320-E2D onto was done using the speed cowl. Piano hinges installed on
the
inside of the cowl, with the hinge wire slipped through the very nose of the
cowl down each side to peg the 2 halfs together. Then AN525-1032 screw around
the firewall. This is better than Howards, but still not as nice as the
original
old piper type nose bowl and 4 doors. With the old style cowl you can even
change the oil without removing any of the cowl. Just open a lower door! So if
you want sleek looks and no measurable speed increase install the speed
cowl(although you will never open it up to do maintenance until its to
late!) If
you want an installation that allows you to easily do preflights, maint.
etc use
the bowl and doors. But, as we all get lazy, still install an oil door in the
right top door panel for an easy quick oil check!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Enough rambling, don't know how often I
will be
checking in with my work schedule, but hope I helped somehow. I will be
sending
one more e-mail seperately today regarding the tail post. Oh ya, E-mails
scaring
people that are working along at a good pace(2 1/2 weeks and well into a wing)
and telling them it's going to take 3000 hours don't help moral for getting
the
job done! Total time depends on certain levels of mechanical inclindness(if
thats a word). I built my first street rod by the time I was turning 15 and
had
to wait a year to be able to drive it. I graduated with honours in
Electro-Mechanical Engineering and have been working with my hands daily to
this
date. This background allows me to build at the rate I do(and I also run an
Injection Moulding Company). When all the airframe parts are done(wings, tail
feathers and fuselage) you are basically half way there! The other half is you
engine installation, panel installation,struts, fairings and wing tips. So
base
your total time by this. A paint job tackled by yourself with an experience
helper will add another 2 or 3 weeks to your aircraft, but do it now as you
will
be having so much fun flying it, you will never paint it!!!!!!! I have a large
variety of aircraft at my disposal to fly including some Ex-Yugoslavian
airforce
recon. aircraft. 340 H.P Supercharged STOL Monsters, but none are as fun to
fly
s the trusty old Rebel so keep on plugging away!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Regards, Wayne G.
O'Shea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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