Pre-built 1800 amphibs

Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:28 am

We'll I've been pretty much through them and we did get some nice floats.
Sold my "spare" set to Dennis Finley and shipped them back past Chilliwack
to Surrey a while back.

My set have only two smiley rivets per float..sure ain't bad out of 13,000
+. Pretty sure Dennis's are just as good. Never had them fully uncrated, but
had a darn good look from both ends of the crate.

Guess my reason for posting this is to help out the few others I know that
have a set bought at the same time waiting for installation to their birds,
for guys building from kits and so if MAM decides to start assembling them
again that Robin has this snag list for future builds. In no specific order,
here is what I found, changed, or that should be changed.

Hydraulic lines are Tee'd on the wrong side of the forwards spreader
bar/strut attach bulkhead. They are tee'd behind it and the preferred place
to take the lines up the forward strut is in front of the attach bulkhead. I
am going to compromise and bring one up each side so I only have to take one
line back through the bulkhead.

Lines are Tee'd way in towards the bulkhead. If they had of been tee'd 10"
or so further back, or in front of the bulkhead like they really should be
they would be easy to access and work on. With them located in so far you
are working blind when trying to tighten the tee fittings etc.

BEFORE you try moving any gear system, pull the short lengths of tube that
where (I presume) used for cycle testing and join them together with a brass
compression fitting union. I had tried to move the main gear up enough to
see the rubbers to help Ray out and when carrying Daryl used the nose pivot
as a handle. These movements were enough to unknowingly pressurize the
lines. I pulled the bolts out of the line ends and had a Dextron III shower
yesterday. There are red dots in a 20' x 35' rectangle in my shop.
Paperwork, floor, ceiling etc splattered...as well as my sweater, Leaven's
work vest, pants etc and a damn good thing I wear glasses. Once the lines
are unioned together you can pull the gear in and out as much as you want
with the fluid just going back and forth.

Brake torque plate...before reassembly of the main wheel assembly be sure to
slot the forward two holes in the brake torque plate so you don't need to
pull the fwd two bolts on the swing arm to remove the wheel/axle assembly.

Main Gear axle. X -Drilled in the center @ 3/16" and then about a 4" deep
drill @7/32" in from the brake side end of the axle to form a tee. Then
tapped 1/4-28 for a grease zert. Then fill the wheel with Synthetic boat
trailer grease using a tongue depressor even with the bearing races. Then
hand pack the bearings and reinstall c/w dust seals and retainer. Then
install the axle and nut. Grease through the zert while rolling the wheel
until excess grease leaks out the axle nut side and wipe clean. Install
assembly to swing arms. If you keep your wheels full of grease throughout
the summer the water can't get in. If you just hand pack the bearings as
recieved they will not last a month... as the water in the wheel acts as a
centrifuge and washes the bearings clean. $400 for a set of CP's could get
pricy over time and needless to say the down time's a piss off as well.
Howard's did their 7th season last year being kept full of grease and they
still roll perfectly!

Others have suggested a sleeve so you are only greasing the immediate shaft
area. If you do this remember you will need to drill drain holes in those
nice Cleveland wheels so the water can drain out and not freeze in there
(possibly cracking your wheels). Total grease used to fill both wheels to
the bearing races and then pump them full...1 &1/2 x 12 ounce cartridges.
Some say "why would you want to carry that extra weight with the wheels full
of grease" and all I can say is if there's no grease in there they will be
full of the water so there ain't much difference!

Main gear travel has always been a little shy. They stick out too far IMHO
in the full up position being just slightly above the step keel. With a bit
of fiddling you can cut down on the over center amount to gain a couple
turns tighter on the rod end clevis. This still give you over center enough
to keep them locked, but gets the gear up slightly more in the retract
position.

Main wheels/tires need valve stem extensions, or you will never get an air
chuck on them. Good quality 3/4" extensions are perfect BUT you have to turn
off the unthreaded portion leaving just the threads so you can get them
tight enough on the exposed stem to allow them to seal, let air in and out.

Original hydraulic cylinders from earlier floats had a nice robust thread on
the end 3/8 course I believe they are. Now the new ones have been turned
down to what I believe is only 1/4" and then they lathe relieved between the
thread and the full size of the rod. Looks like a weak spot waiting for
failure to me. But I guess considering the gear goes over center shouldn't
be an issue....HOWEVER the nose cylinders got the same treatment and these
of course use the cylinders pressure to keep them up when castered
backwards.

Main gear enclosure....the rear keel skins are cut way too closely to the
gear mechanism. The notches for the swing arms don't even line up with where
the arms are located so they can't come down fully. I trimmed this all out,
as well as a 1/2" off the one side and opened it up around the brake caliper
etc so you can at least get your hand/arm in. Definitely not going to change
how much water gets scooped. Also trimmed forward of the tire as it's too
close when gear is out. I've seen what that lip can do to a soft tire at 70
mph as it deforms from load and speed. 3/8" clearance is not enough.

Front fork assembly is assembled wrong and way too loose. Wavy washers
should be on the bottom side of the pivot block....if not on both sides..but
not on the top side only. Also there are not enough wavy washers in there
and it's WAY too loose. Two pavement landings would have the nose wheels
bald from shimmy. Either install more wavy washers or mill the pivot shaft
down to take up the slop and divide the supplied wavy washers up and put 1/2
of them above and half below the pivot block.

I pulled the covers at the nose to access the front gear legs two thru bolts
that hold the rollers on. Found all four of these small compartment full of
alum chips and of course they had made it all over the delrin rollers and
into the grease. Had to vacuum this area out with a 3/8" tube taped into the
wetvac hose and disassemble all the rollers to clean them and reassemble.

Round off the rear end of the keel rub strip so if you use a wooden seaplane
ramp you don't get hung up on the sharp edge when trying to push the
airplane backwards off the ramp.

Step area "spray" rails. The outboard side needs to be cut down to about 1/2
width...or it will be the most mangled looking thing in no time from hitting
the dock/dock bumpers etc. I've seen many that were left full size to match
the inboard one and they are all wavy and mangled looking (not to mention
what i will do to your legs). I cut Howard's down to 1/2 width in '97 and
his are still straight ( or maybe he just docks better than most! LOL)

Replace or reinforce the Black plastic Seadog spin off covers now, before
they are a constant headache.

Pump out cups are none standard size that don't fit any pumps, formed rubber
plugs or the auto check valve plugs that are available. Unless you can find
a pump and want to make up those half ass plugs from plastic chair leg caps
and cord...drill them off and install EDO cups and plug them with Lake-n-Air
formed rubber plugs or the auto ball check plugs.

All I can think of for now, gotta get to bed as it's tomorrow already..were
does the time go??

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:28 am

One more thing is the sacrifical zinc block is attached to the rear end,
inside surface of the spray rail. This will cause a rooster tail off the
floats and should be moved to the main gear compartment lower keel skin
overhang, on the inside of the gear compartment.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 2:53 AM
Subject: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

We'll I've been pretty much through them and we did get some nice floats.
Sold my "spare" set to Dennis Finley and shipped them back past Chilliwack
to Surrey a while back.

My set have only two smiley rivets per float..sure ain't bad out of 13,000
+. Pretty sure Dennis's are just as good. Never had them fully uncrated,

but

had a darn good look from both ends of the crate.

Guess my reason for posting this is to help out the few others I know that
have a set bought at the same time waiting for installation to their

birds,

for guys building from kits and so if MAM decides to start assembling them
again that Robin has this snag list for future builds. In no specific

order,

here is what I found, changed, or that should be changed.

Hydraulic lines are Tee'd on the wrong side of the forwards spreader
bar/strut attach bulkhead. They are tee'd behind it and the preferred

place

to take the lines up the forward strut is in front of the attach bulkhead.

I

am going to compromise and bring one up each side so I only have to take

one

line back through the bulkhead.

Lines are Tee'd way in towards the bulkhead. If they had of been tee'd 10"
or so further back, or in front of the bulkhead like they really should be
they would be easy to access and work on. With them located in so far you
are working blind when trying to tighten the tee fittings etc.

BEFORE you try moving any gear system, pull the short lengths of tube that
where (I presume) used for cycle testing and join them together with a

brass

compression fitting union. I had tried to move the main gear up enough to
see the rubbers to help Ray out and when carrying Daryl used the nose

pivot

as a handle. These movements were enough to unknowingly pressurize the
lines. I pulled the bolts out of the line ends and had a Dextron III

shower

yesterday. There are red dots in a 20' x 35' rectangle in my shop.
Paperwork, floor, ceiling etc splattered...as well as my sweater, Leaven's
work vest, pants etc and a damn good thing I wear glasses. Once the lines
are unioned together you can pull the gear in and out as much as you want
with the fluid just going back and forth.

Brake torque plate...before reassembly of the main wheel assembly be sure

to

slot the forward two holes in the brake torque plate so you don't need to
pull the fwd two bolts on the swing arm to remove the wheel/axle assembly.

Main Gear axle. X -Drilled in the center @ 3/16" and then about a 4" deep
drill @7/32" in from the brake side end of the axle to form a tee. Then
tapped 1/4-28 for a grease zert. Then fill the wheel with Synthetic boat
trailer grease using a tongue depressor even with the bearing races. Then
hand pack the bearings and reinstall c/w dust seals and retainer. Then
install the axle and nut. Grease through the zert while rolling the wheel
until excess grease leaks out the axle nut side and wipe clean. Install
assembly to swing arms. If you keep your wheels full of grease throughout
the summer the water can't get in. If you just hand pack the bearings as
recieved they will not last a month... as the water in the wheel acts as a
centrifuge and washes the bearings clean. $400 for a set of CP's could get
pricy over time and needless to say the down time's a piss off as well.
Howard's did their 7th season last year being kept full of grease and they
still roll perfectly!

Others have suggested a sleeve so you are only greasing the immediate

shaft

area. If you do this remember you will need to drill drain holes in those
nice Cleveland wheels so the water can drain out and not freeze in there
(possibly cracking your wheels). Total grease used to fill both wheels to
the bearing races and then pump them full...1 &1/2 x 12 ounce cartridges.
Some say "why would you want to carry that extra weight with the wheels

full

of grease" and all I can say is if there's no grease in there they will be
full of the water so there ain't much difference!

Main gear travel has always been a little shy. They stick out too far IMHO
in the full up position being just slightly above the step keel. With a

bit

of fiddling you can cut down on the over center amount to gain a couple
turns tighter on the rod end clevis. This still give you over center

enough

to keep them locked, but gets the gear up slightly more in the retract
position.

Main wheels/tires need valve stem extensions, or you will never get an air
chuck on them. Good quality 3/4" extensions are perfect BUT you have to

turn

off the unthreaded portion leaving just the threads so you can get them
tight enough on the exposed stem to allow them to seal, let air in and

out.

Original hydraulic cylinders from earlier floats had a nice robust thread

on

the end 3/8 course I believe they are. Now the new ones have been turned
down to what I believe is only 1/4" and then they lathe relieved between

the

thread and the full size of the rod. Looks like a weak spot waiting for
failure to me. But I guess considering the gear goes over center shouldn't
be an issue....HOWEVER the nose cylinders got the same treatment and these
of course use the cylinders pressure to keep them up when castered
backwards.

Main gear enclosure....the rear keel skins are cut way too closely to the
gear mechanism. The notches for the swing arms don't even line up with

where

the arms are located so they can't come down fully. I trimmed this all

out,

as well as a 1/2" off the one side and opened it up around the brake

caliper

etc so you can at least get your hand/arm in. Definitely not going to

change

how much water gets scooped. Also trimmed forward of the tire as it's too
close when gear is out. I've seen what that lip can do to a soft tire at

70

mph as it deforms from load and speed. 3/8" clearance is not enough.

Front fork assembly is assembled wrong and way too loose. Wavy washers
should be on the bottom side of the pivot block....if not on both

sides..but

not on the top side only. Also there are not enough wavy washers in there
and it's WAY too loose. Two pavement landings would have the nose wheels
bald from shimmy. Either install more wavy washers or mill the pivot shaft
down to take up the slop and divide the supplied wavy washers up and put

1/2

of them above and half below the pivot block.

I pulled the covers at the nose to access the front gear legs two thru

bolts

that hold the rollers on. Found all four of these small compartment full

of

alum chips and of course they had made it all over the delrin rollers and
into the grease. Had to vacuum this area out with a 3/8" tube taped into

the

wetvac hose and disassemble all the rollers to clean them and reassemble.

Round off the rear end of the keel rub strip so if you use a wooden

seaplane

ramp you don't get hung up on the sharp edge when trying to push the
airplane backwards off the ramp.

Step area "spray" rails. The outboard side needs to be cut down to about

1/2

width...or it will be the most mangled looking thing in no time from

hitting

the dock/dock bumpers etc. I've seen many that were left full size to

match

the inboard one and they are all wavy and mangled looking (not to mention
what i will do to your legs). I cut Howard's down to 1/2 width in '97 and
his are still straight ( or maybe he just docks better than most! LOL)

Replace or reinforce the Black plastic Seadog spin off covers now, before
they are a constant headache.

Pump out cups are none standard size that don't fit any pumps, formed

rubber

plugs or the auto check valve plugs that are available. Unless you can

find

a pump and want to make up those half ass plugs from plastic chair leg

caps

and cord...drill them off and install EDO cups and plug them with

Lake-n-Air

formed rubber plugs or the auto ball check plugs.

All I can think of for now, gotta get to bed as it's tomorrow

already..were

does the time go??

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:28 am

Water rudder hold down spring. Toss the little bungee and replace with CTC
part # 61-1514-6 with 11 coils cut off. For those with no access to our
wonderful aircraft parts store known as Canadian Tire Corporation.....this
spring starts life as a 1/2" x 2 5/8" spring + the end loops. When cut it's
about 1 3/4" + the loops. Works like a dream with no need for yearly (or
possibly decade) replacements.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

One more thing is the sacrifical zinc block is attached to the rear end,
inside surface of the spray rail. This will cause a rooster tail off the
floats and should be moved to the main gear compartment lower keel skin
overhang, on the inside of the gear compartment.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 2:53 AM
Subject: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

We'll I've been pretty much through them and we did get some nice

floats.

Sold my "spare" set to Dennis Finley and shipped them back past

Chilliwack

to Surrey a while back.

My set have only two smiley rivets per float..sure ain't bad out of

13,000

+. Pretty sure Dennis's are just as good. Never had them fully uncrated,
but
had a darn good look from both ends of the crate.

Guess my reason for posting this is to help out the few others I know

that

have a set bought at the same time waiting for installation to their
birds,
for guys building from kits and so if MAM decides to start assembling

them

again that Robin has this snag list for future builds. In no specific
order,
here is what I found, changed, or that should be changed.

Hydraulic lines are Tee'd on the wrong side of the forwards spreader
bar/strut attach bulkhead. They are tee'd behind it and the preferred
place
to take the lines up the forward strut is in front of the attach

bulkhead.

I
am going to compromise and bring one up each side so I only have to take
one
line back through the bulkhead.

Lines are Tee'd way in towards the bulkhead. If they had of been tee'd

10"

or so further back, or in front of the bulkhead like they really should

be

they would be easy to access and work on. With them located in so far

you

are working blind when trying to tighten the tee fittings etc.

BEFORE you try moving any gear system, pull the short lengths of tube

that

where (I presume) used for cycle testing and join them together with a
brass
compression fitting union. I had tried to move the main gear up enough

to

see the rubbers to help Ray out and when carrying Daryl used the nose
pivot
as a handle. These movements were enough to unknowingly pressurize the
lines. I pulled the bolts out of the line ends and had a Dextron III
shower
yesterday. There are red dots in a 20' x 35' rectangle in my shop.
Paperwork, floor, ceiling etc splattered...as well as my sweater,

Leaven's

work vest, pants etc and a damn good thing I wear glasses. Once the

lines

are unioned together you can pull the gear in and out as much as you

want

with the fluid just going back and forth.

Brake torque plate...before reassembly of the main wheel assembly be

sure

to
slot the forward two holes in the brake torque plate so you don't need

to

pull the fwd two bolts on the swing arm to remove the wheel/axle

assembly.

Main Gear axle. X -Drilled in the center @ 3/16" and then about a 4"

deep

drill @7/32" in from the brake side end of the axle to form a tee. Then
tapped 1/4-28 for a grease zert. Then fill the wheel with Synthetic boat
trailer grease using a tongue depressor even with the bearing races.

Then

hand pack the bearings and reinstall c/w dust seals and retainer. Then
install the axle and nut. Grease through the zert while rolling the

wheel

until excess grease leaks out the axle nut side and wipe clean. Install
assembly to swing arms. If you keep your wheels full of grease

throughout

the summer the water can't get in. If you just hand pack the bearings as
recieved they will not last a month... as the water in the wheel acts as

a

centrifuge and washes the bearings clean. $400 for a set of CP's could

get

pricy over time and needless to say the down time's a piss off as well.
Howard's did their 7th season last year being kept full of grease and

they

still roll perfectly!

Others have suggested a sleeve so you are only greasing the immediate
shaft
area. If you do this remember you will need to drill drain holes in

those

nice Cleveland wheels so the water can drain out and not freeze in there
(possibly cracking your wheels). Total grease used to fill both wheels

to

the bearing races and then pump them full...1 &1/2 x 12 ounce

cartridges.

Some say "why would you want to carry that extra weight with the wheels
full
of grease" and all I can say is if there's no grease in there they will

be

full of the water so there ain't much difference!

Main gear travel has always been a little shy. They stick out too far

IMHO

in the full up position being just slightly above the step keel. With a
bit
of fiddling you can cut down on the over center amount to gain a couple
turns tighter on the rod end clevis. This still give you over center
enough
to keep them locked, but gets the gear up slightly more in the retract
position.

Main wheels/tires need valve stem extensions, or you will never get an

air

chuck on them. Good quality 3/4" extensions are perfect BUT you have to
turn
off the unthreaded portion leaving just the threads so you can get them
tight enough on the exposed stem to allow them to seal, let air in and
out.
Original hydraulic cylinders from earlier floats had a nice robust

thread

on
the end 3/8 course I believe they are. Now the new ones have been turned
down to what I believe is only 1/4" and then they lathe relieved between
the
thread and the full size of the rod. Looks like a weak spot waiting for
failure to me. But I guess considering the gear goes over center

shouldn't

be an issue....HOWEVER the nose cylinders got the same treatment and

these

of course use the cylinders pressure to keep them up when castered
backwards.

Main gear enclosure....the rear keel skins are cut way too closely to

the

gear mechanism. The notches for the swing arms don't even line up with
where
the arms are located so they can't come down fully. I trimmed this all
out,
as well as a 1/2" off the one side and opened it up around the brake
caliper
etc so you can at least get your hand/arm in. Definitely not going to
change
how much water gets scooped. Also trimmed forward of the tire as it's

too

close when gear is out. I've seen what that lip can do to a soft tire at
70
mph as it deforms from load and speed. 3/8" clearance is not enough.

Front fork assembly is assembled wrong and way too loose. Wavy washers
should be on the bottom side of the pivot block....if not on both
sides..but
not on the top side only. Also there are not enough wavy washers in

there

and it's WAY too loose. Two pavement landings would have the nose wheels
bald from shimmy. Either install more wavy washers or mill the pivot

shaft

down to take up the slop and divide the supplied wavy washers up and put
1/2
of them above and half below the pivot block.

I pulled the covers at the nose to access the front gear legs two thru
bolts
that hold the rollers on. Found all four of these small compartment full
of
alum chips and of course they had made it all over the delrin rollers

and

into the grease. Had to vacuum this area out with a 3/8" tube taped into
the
wetvac hose and disassemble all the rollers to clean them and

reassemble.

Round off the rear end of the keel rub strip so if you use a wooden
seaplane
ramp you don't get hung up on the sharp edge when trying to push the
airplane backwards off the ramp.

Step area "spray" rails. The outboard side needs to be cut down to about
1/2
width...or it will be the most mangled looking thing in no time from
hitting
the dock/dock bumpers etc. I've seen many that were left full size to
match
the inboard one and they are all wavy and mangled looking (not to

mention

what i will do to your legs). I cut Howard's down to 1/2 width in '97

and

his are still straight ( or maybe he just docks better than most! LOL)

Replace or reinforce the Black plastic Seadog spin off covers now,

before

they are a constant headache.

Pump out cups are none standard size that don't fit any pumps, formed
rubber
plugs or the auto check valve plugs that are available. Unless you can
find
a pump and want to make up those half ass plugs from plastic chair leg
caps
and cord...drill them off and install EDO cups and plug them with
Lake-n-Air
formed rubber plugs or the auto ball check plugs.

All I can think of for now, gotta get to bed as it's tomorrow
already..were
does the time go??

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:31 am

I think I'm talking to myself on these...other than maybe Dennis...but I
also found when installing the nose wheels that the precut spacers for the
axle total about 9/64's to narrow to "fix" the wheel position. Two options.
Make a new set of spacers or put a washer on each side. I took the easy way
out .....as I had a whole tray of alum washers for no extra dissimilar metal
problems. Holds the wheel bearings just tight enough to keep the center race
from spinning on the axle.

I'm lowering my struts 4" (will still fit a ganoe!) from the manual and to
keep the same geometrics (read compression angles) on the struts this meant
narrowing the float spread 5". Once everything is mounted and plumbed up
will see if I have time left to "decimate" the top deck and put in a nice
big step area hatch like that 21" long beauty on FOKM!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

Water rudder hold down spring. Toss the little bungee and replace with CTC
part # 61-1514-6 with 11 coils cut off. For those with no access to our
wonderful aircraft parts store known as Canadian Tire Corporation.....this
spring starts life as a 1/2" x 2 5/8" spring + the end loops. When cut

it's

about 1 3/4" + the loops. Works like a dream with no need for yearly (or
possibly decade) replacements.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

One more thing is the sacrifical zinc block is attached to the rear end,
inside surface of the spray rail. This will cause a rooster tail off the
floats and should be moved to the main gear compartment lower keel skin
overhang, on the inside of the gear compartment.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Cc: "DENNIS FINLEY" <croydonmachining@telus.net>; "Robin Dyck"
<rdyck@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2005 2:53 AM
Subject: Pre-built 1800 amphibs

We'll I've been pretty much through them and we did get some nice
floats.
Sold my "spare" set to Dennis Finley and shipped them back past
Chilliwack
to Surrey a while back.

My set have only two smiley rivets per float..sure ain't bad out of
13,000
+. Pretty sure Dennis's are just as good. Never had them fully

uncrated,

but
had a darn good look from both ends of the crate.

Guess my reason for posting this is to help out the few others I know
that
have a set bought at the same time waiting for installation to their
birds,
for guys building from kits and so if MAM decides to start assembling
them
again that Robin has this snag list for future builds. In no specific
order,
here is what I found, changed, or that should be changed.

Hydraulic lines are Tee'd on the wrong side of the forwards spreader
bar/strut attach bulkhead. They are tee'd behind it and the preferred
place
to take the lines up the forward strut is in front of the attach
bulkhead.
I
am going to compromise and bring one up each side so I only have to

take

one
line back through the bulkhead.

Lines are Tee'd way in towards the bulkhead. If they had of been tee'd
10"
or so further back, or in front of the bulkhead like they really

should

be
they would be easy to access and work on. With them located in so far
you
are working blind when trying to tighten the tee fittings etc.

BEFORE you try moving any gear system, pull the short lengths of tube
that
where (I presume) used for cycle testing and join them together with a
brass
compression fitting union. I had tried to move the main gear up enough
to
see the rubbers to help Ray out and when carrying Daryl used the nose
pivot
as a handle. These movements were enough to unknowingly pressurize the
lines. I pulled the bolts out of the line ends and had a Dextron III
shower
yesterday. There are red dots in a 20' x 35' rectangle in my shop.
Paperwork, floor, ceiling etc splattered...as well as my sweater,
Leaven's
work vest, pants etc and a damn good thing I wear glasses. Once the
lines
are unioned together you can pull the gear in and out as much as you
want
with the fluid just going back and forth.

Brake torque plate...before reassembly of the main wheel assembly be
sure
to
slot the forward two holes in the brake torque plate so you don't need
to
pull the fwd two bolts on the swing arm to remove the wheel/axle
assembly.
Main Gear axle. X -Drilled in the center @ 3/16" and then about a 4"
deep
drill @7/32" in from the brake side end of the axle to form a tee.

Then

tapped 1/4-28 for a grease zert. Then fill the wheel with Synthetic

boat

trailer grease using a tongue depressor even with the bearing races.
Then
hand pack the bearings and reinstall c/w dust seals and retainer. Then
install the axle and nut. Grease through the zert while rolling the
wheel
until excess grease leaks out the axle nut side and wipe clean.

Install

assembly to swing arms. If you keep your wheels full of grease
throughout
the summer the water can't get in. If you just hand pack the bearings

as

recieved they will not last a month... as the water in the wheel acts

as

a
centrifuge and washes the bearings clean. $400 for a set of CP's could
get
pricy over time and needless to say the down time's a piss off as

well.

Howard's did their 7th season last year being kept full of grease and
they
still roll perfectly!

Others have suggested a sleeve so you are only greasing the immediate
shaft
area. If you do this remember you will need to drill drain holes in
those
nice Cleveland wheels so the water can drain out and not freeze in

there

(possibly cracking your wheels). Total grease used to fill both wheels
to
the bearing races and then pump them full...1 &1/2 x 12 ounce
cartridges.
Some say "why would you want to carry that extra weight with the

wheels

full
of grease" and all I can say is if there's no grease in there they

will

be
full of the water so there ain't much difference!

Main gear travel has always been a little shy. They stick out too far
IMHO
in the full up position being just slightly above the step keel. With

a

bit
of fiddling you can cut down on the over center amount to gain a

couple

turns tighter on the rod end clevis. This still give you over center
enough
to keep them locked, but gets the gear up slightly more in the retract
position.

Main wheels/tires need valve stem extensions, or you will never get an
air
chuck on them. Good quality 3/4" extensions are perfect BUT you have

to

turn
off the unthreaded portion leaving just the threads so you can get

them

tight enough on the exposed stem to allow them to seal, let air in and
out.
Original hydraulic cylinders from earlier floats had a nice robust
thread
on
the end 3/8 course I believe they are. Now the new ones have been

turned

down to what I believe is only 1/4" and then they lathe relieved

between

the
thread and the full size of the rod. Looks like a weak spot waiting

for

failure to me. But I guess considering the gear goes over center
shouldn't
be an issue....HOWEVER the nose cylinders got the same treatment and
these
of course use the cylinders pressure to keep them up when castered
backwards.

Main gear enclosure....the rear keel skins are cut way too closely to
the
gear mechanism. The notches for the swing arms don't even line up with
where
the arms are located so they can't come down fully. I trimmed this all
out,
as well as a 1/2" off the one side and opened it up around the brake
caliper
etc so you can at least get your hand/arm in. Definitely not going to
change
how much water gets scooped. Also trimmed forward of the tire as it's
too
close when gear is out. I've seen what that lip can do to a soft tire

at

70
mph as it deforms from load and speed. 3/8" clearance is not enough.

Front fork assembly is assembled wrong and way too loose. Wavy washers
should be on the bottom side of the pivot block....if not on both
sides..but
not on the top side only. Also there are not enough wavy washers in
there
and it's WAY too loose. Two pavement landings would have the nose

wheels

bald from shimmy. Either install more wavy washers or mill the pivot
shaft
down to take up the slop and divide the supplied wavy washers up and

put

1/2
of them above and half below the pivot block.

I pulled the covers at the nose to access the front gear legs two thru
bolts
that hold the rollers on. Found all four of these small compartment

full

of
alum chips and of course they had made it all over the delrin rollers
and
into the grease. Had to vacuum this area out with a 3/8" tube taped

into

the
wetvac hose and disassemble all the rollers to clean them and
reassemble.
Round off the rear end of the keel rub strip so if you use a wooden
seaplane
ramp you don't get hung up on the sharp edge when trying to push the
airplane backwards off the ramp.

Step area "spray" rails. The outboard side needs to be cut down to

about

1/2
width...or it will be the most mangled looking thing in no time from
hitting
the dock/dock bumpers etc. I've seen many that were left full size to
match
the inboard one and they are all wavy and mangled looking (not to
mention
what i will do to your legs). I cut Howard's down to 1/2 width in '97
and
his are still straight ( or maybe he just docks better than most! LOL)

Replace or reinforce the Black plastic Seadog spin off covers now,
before
they are a constant headache.

Pump out cups are none standard size that don't fit any pumps, formed
rubber
plugs or the auto check valve plugs that are available. Unless you can
find
a pump and want to make up those half ass plugs from plastic chair leg
caps
and cord...drill them off and install EDO cups and plug them with
Lake-n-Air
formed rubber plugs or the auto ball check plugs.

All I can think of for now, gotta get to bed as it's tomorrow
already..were
does the time go??

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea

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