The Murphy Builders Site

Hello Rebel Group:

I have a question for you building Rebel 662 Tailwheel Assembly.

I have drilled the two 1/4 inch holes through the Tailwheel Swivel
(LG-18) and Tailskid LG-30-1. The area where the end of the Tailskid
butts the machined "lip" on the Tailwheel Swivel, there is a bit of a
gap (1/64 th or so) in that area (the Tailskid end is not zero clearance
into the machined "lip" area). Since I was using my drill press, it was
difficult to hold the parts while drilling and something must have moved
and didn't notice until I flipped it over.

QUESTION: Are the LG-18 and LG-30-1 held in compression with the two 1/4
inch bolts OR is it critical that the Tailskid end fit flush to the
Tailwheel Swivel machined lip with zero tolerance? (My thought is that
butting LG-30-1 end to LG-18 with zero clearance in this area would keep
the Swivel from moving in shear since the tailwheel sees side loads on
landing etc.). I thought I would get your opinion before I continue on.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA




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Don't lose any sleep over this slight gap. It's the bolts doing the work
anyhow as it's more of a tension load vs shear on them.

What you need to take some time to look at though is to be sure there is no
slop in the spring clamp (TS-1/2/3 etc). Once you have everything bolted up
tight...rock the fuselage side to side and see if you can detect any rocking
of the tail spring. If it can rock it is twisting the single bolt into the
FUS-49 assembly back and forth every time you taxi/land/turnaround etc. and
this will eventually lead to cracking. If there's some rocking two options.
Trim down the two spacer blocks a bit on each side, or the simplest is to
take some alum (.032/.040) 1 3/4" x 1 1/2" and make a shim for above and/or
below the spring. Bend a 45* lip on each side of the 1 1/2" width at a 1/4"
since you bottom angle is 1" wide. This will let it sit flat and the two
1/4" bends will keep it from falling out.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: "Murphy Group" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 1:35 PM
Subject: Rebel Tailwheel Assembly Question

Hello Rebel Group:

I have a question for you building Rebel 662 Tailwheel Assembly.

I have drilled the two 1/4 inch holes through the Tailwheel Swivel
(LG-18) and Tailskid LG-30-1. The area where the end of the Tailskid
butts the machined "lip" on the Tailwheel Swivel, there is a bit of a
gap (1/64 th or so) in that area (the Tailskid end is not zero clearance
into the machined "lip" area). Since I was using my drill press, it was
difficult to hold the parts while drilling and something must have moved
and didn't notice until I flipped it over.

QUESTION: Are the LG-18 and LG-30-1 held in compression with the two 1/4
inch bolts OR is it critical that the Tailskid end fit flush to the
Tailwheel Swivel machined lip with zero tolerance? (My thought is that
butting LG-30-1 end to LG-18 with zero clearance in this area would keep
the Swivel from moving in shear since the tailwheel sees side loads on
landing etc.). I thought I would get your opinion before I continue on.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA




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Terry:
If this is the MAM tailwheel, Inspect it often. Mine got a burr at the
release point and ended in a minor crunch to fuselodge. Replaced mine with a
Scott3200. FWIW.

Murray






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I do not understand the tail wheel problem. I flew rebel "652" for three
years and on the last annual, completely disassembled the tail wheel
assembly and did not find any indication of wear at all. I was greasing it
several times a year with a grease gun until grease flowed out both the top
and bottom. I had cut a spiral groove around the shaft to ensure good grease
flow in both directions. - Bob Johnson(again) formerly Rebel 652.
----- Original Message -----
From: "carol and murray cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Tailwheel Assembly Question

Terry:
If this is the MAM tailwheel, Inspect it often. Mine got a burr at the
release point and ended in a minor crunch to fuselodge. Replaced mine with
a
Scott3200. FWIW.

Murray






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Following my incident I called MAM and spoke with ? He knew exactly what
happened and why before I had hardly started my story. He said that the same
thing happened to him But his plane had about 400 hrs, on it at the time.He
did say that MAM changed the pin from brass to stainless steel however there
seems to still have been a few incidents following this change if you have
followed this chat line over the past few years. I haven't done any further
investigating of this since.

Just a heads up

Murray





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Thanks Murray, Wayne and all for the tailwheel information. I will insure that
everything is tight fore-and-aft and side-to-side on the tailskid and clamping
areas. Good idea on the shimming.

In applications like this, in order to "try" to keep things relatively tight
and holes clean and straight, I use standard drill up to one size below my
target hole size, then run a reamer as my last shot. Whether it by drill press
or by hand.

Yes Murray, it is a MAM tailwheel and I did have some minor burrs on the cap
that is pinned to the top of the yoke and sliding key (sorry, I don't have the
part numbers in front of me) that I hit with a file just to be sure. I had read
your previous post on your sticky tailwheel parts and subsequent whoop-de-doo.
I made note to double check all of the tailwheel parts and give them a good
grease on a regular basis.

Thanks again guys.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington USA


carol and murray cherkas wrote:

Terry:
If this is the MAM tailwheel, Inspect it often. Mine got a burr at the
release point and ended in a minor crunch to fuselodge.

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