Page 1 of 1

Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Alvin and Glenys Adams
Thanks for information.Will scrap ideal off power flow.I do not want a noisy
aircraft either inside or outside.If i go with the speed cowl can i
practically install a exhaust with a muffler or do i have to go with tho
nose bowl cowling.

Regards: Alvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 21

1 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

2 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

3 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: Epoxy primer

4 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

5 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

6 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

7 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

8 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

9 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

10 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

11 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

12 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From : wudoktor@aol.com
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

13 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

14 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

15 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

16 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

17 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From : srwhitenect@hotmail.com
Subject: Exhaust Support

18 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

19 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From : sa@mwutah.com
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

20 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: RE: float hydro presure

21 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:06:02 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320



hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the same
as an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's there
has not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.



almost all our lakes have become soft water, as opposed to ice in the last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours in
70 degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the
first warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.



question for the group???? do you release the preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put them
in when i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks in
and push it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find
the problem tomorrow.



andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
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---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi andy i park with the nose gear pointing aft always then the
pressure can bleed off which it does and nothing happens

i`m going to make a set of the tubes that go over the rod on the cylinder
just for when i push backwards
what material did you use? aluminum tubing? how do you make sure it`s
out
before takoff?

bob fisher rebel 342 on 1800 amphibs parry sound ont


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Bowman" <bowmanout@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the same
as
an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's there
has
not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.


almost all our lakes have become soft water, as opposed to ice in the
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours in
70
degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the first
warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.


question for the group???? do you release the preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose
wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put them in
when
i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks in and push
it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find the
problem
tomorrow.


andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Epoxy primer

Wayne (and others):
The strontium chromate primer we use is covered by the following data.
It is two part epoxy and the thinner is the high humidity, blush
resistant type. One of the two companies mentioned bought the other
(don't remember which) but they should be able to cross reference.

Pratt & Lambert high solids epoxy thinner 110-059.
Pratt & Lambert epoxy primer curing agent P610421.
Sherwin Williams corrosion protective epoxy primer CM0483660.

The mix ratio is 2 resin to 1 curing agent. Mix throughly and wait 20
minutes. Then thin about 25% to spray.
Do not spray without a mask rated for this service! Read the mask
canister data and be sure.
Ralph Baker


---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

Hi Bob,

My partner, Clint, made the inserts out of pvc tubing, the idea came from
someone on this list. they are slit open on the bottoms to a width that
allows them to snap on over/around the cylinder rods. to assist in
installation and removal, they have pcv handles glued to them at about a
70 degree angle. to avoid departure with them installed we painted them
red. we have flown with them installed before we ready to try inflight
retraction. no problems.

hope this helps.

Andy


---------------------------------
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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi andy i park with the nose gear pointing aft always then the
pressure can bleed off which it does and nothing happens

i`m going to make a set of the tubes that go over the rod on the cylinder
just for when i push backwards
what material did you use? aluminum tubing? how do you make sure it`s
out
before takoff?

bob fisher rebel 342 on 1800 amphibs parry sound ont


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Bowman" <bowmanout@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the same
as
an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's there
has
not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.


almost all our lakes have become soft water, as opposed to ice in the
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours in
70
degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the first
warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.


question for the group???? do you release the preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose
wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put them in
when
i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks in and
push
it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find the
problem
tomorrow.


andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
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---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My 0320 conical mount also has no suffix. I had it overhauled as
a non certified engine, so it probably doesn't resemble anything
now. It came set up for a constant speed, but I converted it for
FP. I always thought it originally came out of a Tri-Pacer.

I always release the pressure on the selector valve and keep it
in the neutral position after the gear is cycled up or down. That
way I don't put any pressure on the lines or fittings. Just
before take-off, I do have to pump them up again, so the wheels
don't drag in the water. I use the standard MAM lines, and no
problems so far. I actually preferred the clear lines, because I
could get all the air out of the system, without any messy
bleeding.

I only use the front locks when pulling it in the hangar. With
the wheels castered back as in the moving forward position, the
gear will not collapse, but if they are castered to the front as
when pulling back, they most certainly will. I use PVC pipe for
locks, cut just enough so they pop in place around the cylinder
shaft.

As for leaks, I did have some initially on some fittings, but
managed to fix them all. In some cases, I had to change the
little brass collar to a different style from a local automotive
shop, that worked better for me.

One thing to watch for, is make sure your rubber hose from the
pump to the selector valve is not fuel line as MAM apparently
shipped to some builders. Can't remember the exact PSI, but I
think mine was 600. Bruce G. would know as he found that out the
hard way, after we flew into a remote alpine lake last summer and
it sat there in the hot sun with his selector valve not in
neutral.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Andy Bowman
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 5:18 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320




hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in
1956 came from a money. it's model designation is
0320. there is no suffix. it is the same as an
0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since
the 60's there has not been an 0-320 mooney, but the
logs that came with this freshly overhauled 0-320
definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.



almost all our lakes have become soft water, as
opposed to ice in the last 3 days. in fact i would
have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop
ramp for 3 hours in 70 degree temps. we finished our
float install in oct so this was the first warm high
sun angle day she has sat out in.



question for the group???? do you release the
preassure on you hydro in these conditions? or do you
park with nose wheels castered aft and leave 100lbs on
the system??? that is what i did and one of the
fittings leaked. for those who have not done this, i
took off with 0 preassure and landed same. no problem.
i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not
forget to put them in when i backed the plane into the
hangar. i decided to put the locks in and push it in
frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to
find the problem tomorrow.



andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!



-------------------------------------------------------
----------
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----------


---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My hydraulic system loses pressure after about 10minutes I replaced the
lines with truck air brake lines and fittings I've also replaced both the
pump check valves and there's no apparent leaks so at least one of my
cylinders must have an internal leak. I can live with it the way it is now
I just have to remember to give a short stroke on the pump when on final.
Maybe a little bit of air in the system would keep the pressure from going
too high when parked.

At 09:46 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne
Drew



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Not sure what's happening Bruce... don't understand the the "can't display
image" either... there isn't anything to display? Once you click the
upload
now button are you clicking on anything else? If so, you must not do
this... once you enter your file information and click upload now... you
need to wait until the screen shows upload successful. There is no
indication that anything is happening. Anyway, just send me the pics and
a
description, and I'll take care of it. Oh, and while I prefer that pics
uploaded are 640x480, it's just to make them easy to view for everybody on
the list. There are no limitations to what you upload.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Mike,

I know it has been awhile since I uploaded any pics but I have tried
several
times with the same resolute. After the upload is half complete I get a
"can't display image" message. I reduced the file size using IrfanView
but it
doesn't seem to matter.

Bruce
---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I have found even with the selector valve in the neutral position the
pressure can built as the temperature changes. I've come to the hanger
some days
and found the lines as high as 450 psi.

As Walter said, you should make sure you were shipped hydraulic hose and
not
fuel line from MAM, or you will be cleaning hydraulic fluid from weeping
rivets and overlaps for the next year. The stuff is like Corrosion X...or
even
better.

Bruce


---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

So what this thread is saying is that it would be worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne


snip



---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Thanks for the tips on the tips Ken.
So did the guys that installed the tip rib with flanges outboard cut a
hole
in them to clear the hinge bolts? Don't know if I'm missing something
here.
Don't know but I'd guess that they did.
Also, why did you have to make your rudder tip longer, and in what
dimension
are you talking about?
Thanks.
Jesse

It was almost a half inch too short forward and aft. I've seen one Rebel
that was the same but he just slit the trailing edge so that the
trailing edge of the tip did not wrap around the rudder. All four other
tips were a perfect fit.

Ken




---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From: wudoktor@aol.com
To: rebel-builders-d
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

I may have used a similar epoxy primer

Sherwin Williams Aerospace Coating
meets MIL-P-23377F
two part mix
CMO724114 Adduct
and CMO724400 yellow primer

Apparently is a corrosion inhibitor and bonds pretty well to clean alum.
Wicks fairly well between riveted surfaces except for compressed contact
surfaces right under the rivet head.

Tony Wu N518R




---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then any pressure change
can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change the lever and give
a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson doesn't decide to
move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
So what this thread is saying is that it would be worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system
does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to
over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you
have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne


snip





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Drew



---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

"Or just leave the selector in the up position."


And make sure your nose gear is castered back and/or your PVC locks are on
or you will take a nose dive! Been there and done that too.


Bruce


---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Even when put in the up position you are going to build pressure from
sun/temp on the other side of the system back to the hydraulic pump.
Putting
in neutral, as Walter does, only protects the line from the selector to
the
pump. Neutral is actually a locked postion so now you have pressure
building
in both the up and down lines as neither is now vented back to tank. The
only thing I use the neutral position for is removing lines... as very
little fluid loss since no air in means no fluid out.

Ken's probably hit the nail on the head...we probably should be teeing a
pressure relief valve, set at about 300 psi, into the line from the pump
to
the selector valve and then be sure to leave the selector either up or
down
to protect the entire system at all times.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then any pressure change
can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change the lever and give
a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson doesn't decide to
move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
So what this thread is saying is that it would be worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
does
amphibs
kinda
Just
over
that
glad
have
snip





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Drew





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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I know mine does not hold pressure for any length of time, but
there are no external leaks. Has not been a problem for me, but I
just need to remember to pump up a couple of strokes prior to
take-off on water so my mains don't drag.

In fact, after reading this, I'm thinking I prefer some slight
internal leak through check valves, cylinder O rings or wherever
it is, so that I don't get any pressure build-ups in the heat. I
guess that's why I have never seen it on mine and no external
leaks. However, as I mentioned in a previous post, I do always
relieve pressure after cycling the gear and leave the selector in
neutral. I know some do it differently, but I think I'll stick
with my method, as it has served me well so far.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 7:53 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then
any pressure change can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change
the lever and give a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson
doesn't decide to move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
So what this thread is saying is that it would be
worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
hydraulic system does
pump. Howard's amphibs
as well...so I kinda
cylinders or check valves. Just
pressure from 100 to over
left it a Zero after that
pressure at 550psi! Sure glad
some preflared c/w
is YES, once you have
and check the gauge
snip





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-----------
Drew





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---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From: srwhitenect@hotmail.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Exhaust Support



Hi Guys
I made my own exhaust system for my Christavia which was a cross over with
straight pipes. I made a small plate (about 3" x 1 1/2") and matched the
two rear center bolt holes for the oil pan. I welded two 1/2 inch (about
10"
long) tubes each pointing down towards an exhaust pipe. I then took a
piece
of 3/8 tube and made an open ended triangle that that came down from
behind
the engine to one pipe-flattened out an area to clamp to the pipe- across
to
the other pipe-flattened area again and then up behind the engine again. A
small piece of 3/8 pipe was welded as a support about two inches away from
each corner that attaches to the exhaust tube. When this was completed and
fitted the two exhaust stacks without any load, it was disassembled and
the
two upper 3/8 tubes were slid into the 1/2 tubes (telescopic) and
reassembled. When it was all snug in place and under no load, the 3/8 and
1/2 tubes were welded. I don't think it weighted a pound and was out of
way
of everything I had installed. Put about 400 hours on this system before
I
put the aircraft away for storage, mostly on floats and have never had a
crack-knock on wood. Will be doing something similiar when I reach the
point
with my rebel. Can also use to support throttle- mixture- carb heat
cables.
Everything is isolated to the engine. Can't get any pictures for about
another month when I take the aircraft out of storage for Oshkosh.

Steve W.
Rebel #637



---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Todays silly question is which way are guys wiring the trim rocker
switch if installed on the instrument panel? Push the top to go nose
down or push the top to go nose up? If you think about a trim wheel or a
stick mounted trim switch then pushing the top for nose down makes
sense. Or you can just think of it as an up/down switch....

In case you think I'm totally nutty, the manufacturer supplies labelling
for either way:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html

Also at the bottom of that page is a $30. position sensor that looks
like it could be used to feed one of their $77. position indicators if
someone with electric flaps wanted a panel mounted indicator.

Ken




---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From: sa@mwutah.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Didn't some one say once that no questions are silly?

I suspect the majority will be push the top for nose down trim, bottom for
nose up.

Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 2:25 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Todays silly question is which way are guys wiring the trim rocker
switch if installed on the instrument panel? Push the top to go nose
down or push the top to go nose up? If you think about a trim wheel or a
stick mounted trim switch then pushing the top for nose down makes
sense. Or you can just think of it as an up/down switch....

In case you think I'm totally nutty, the manufacturer supplies labelling
for either way:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html

Also at the bottom of that page is a $30. position sensor that looks
like it could be used to feed one of their $77. position indicators if
someone with electric flaps wanted a panel mounted indicator.

Ken






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---------- Digest Message #20 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float hydro presure

hi,

thanks to all for the helpful info. we did not finish our float install
until mid october.
as a result, we are for the first time encountering high sun angles and
70+ degree temps.
we are learning quickly what not to do. with your help we will hopfully
not have to make any more landings with zero on the presure guage.

i am inclined to go with a relief valve. my short term solution was to put
together a repair kit with the correct wrenches, hydro fluid, and some
spare fittings.

tomorrow i hope to splash for the first time in 2005.

andy


---------------------------------
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---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:06:02 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi guys thanks everyone for all the interesting coments i guess this
is
why this forum is sooooo valuable bob fisher
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 12:10 PM
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I know mine does not hold pressure for any length of time, but
there are no external leaks. Has not been a problem for me, but I
just need to remember to pump up a couple of strokes prior to
take-off on water so my mains don't drag.

In fact, after reading this, I'm thinking I prefer some slight
internal leak through check valves, cylinder O rings or wherever
it is, so that I don't get any pressure build-ups in the heat. I
guess that's why I have never seen it on mine and no external
leaks. However, as I mentioned in a previous post, I do always
relieve pressure after cycling the gear and leave the selector in
neutral. I know some do it differently, but I think I'll stick
with my method, as it has served me well so far.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 7:53 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then
any pressure change can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change
the lever and give a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson
doesn't decide to move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote: worth installing a hydraulic system does pump. Howard's amphibs as well...so I kinda cylinders or check valves. Just pressure from 100 to over left it a Zero after that pressure at 550psi! Sure glad some preflared c/w is YES, once you have and check the gauge ----------- https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML -----------
Drew





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-------------------------------------------------------
----------




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Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Drew Dalgleish
Alvin have you looked at the powerflow for a cherokee. IIRC it hangs down
below the cowl so that may make for an easier instalation if not terribly
pretty. At least it won't be too noisy.
P.S. Please clip your posts to keep Wayne from whining about his slow
dial-up connection ;)

At 12:46 PM 4/11/2005 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks for information.Will scrap ideal off power flow.I do not want a noisy
aircraft either inside or outside.If i go with the speed cowl can i
practically install a exhaust with a muffler or do i have to go with tho
nose bowl cowling.
Drew





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Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Angus McKenzie
Just a quick comment.
I was able to get a local shop (a friend of John Goris')to build me a new
exhaust of 2" stainless exhaust system. 1-3/4" is stock Lycoming. This shop
does sanitary piping in commercial dairies , cheese factories and the like.
All of the pipe segments are cut from mandrel bends and purge welded, TIG.

Two friends,one from Leavens and one from Leggats had involvement in the
construction of our 0-320-A2B. It has some performance extras including
+.010 0-360 pistons and big valves. Both of these mechanics felt that
performance would benefit from the larger exhaust. My friend from Leggats
lent me an 0-320 core engine/cylinders. I took in that core with my old MAM
mild steel cross-over exhaust and a new set of 4 stainless exhaust flange
blanks and ,viola, new pipes,an exact duplication including flange rings for
the heat muffs, slip joints on the cross-over,etc.

This system has no muffler and mounts only on the exhaust studs, only has
100hrs on it from last year, no cracks, good performance and a distinctive
sound. I am very pleased with it. It is a shame to have to cover the fine
welding and outstanding craftsmanship with the engine cowl as they look so
nice...............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alvin and Glenys Adams" <gander.electrical@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 12:46 PM
Subject: Power flow exhaust:

Thanks for information.Will scrap ideal off power flow.I do not want a
noisy
aircraft either inside or outside.If i go with the speed cowl can i
practically install a exhaust with a muffler or do i have to go with tho
nose bowl cowling.

Regards: Alvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 21

1 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

2 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

3 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: Epoxy primer

4 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

5 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

6 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

7 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

8 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

9 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

10 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

11 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

12 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From : wudoktor@aol.com
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

13 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

14 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

15 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

16 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

17 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From : srwhitenect@hotmail.com
Subject: Exhaust Support

18 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

19 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From : sa@mwutah.com
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

20 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: RE: float hydro presure

21 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:06:02 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320



hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the
same
as an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's
there
has not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.



almost all our lakes have become soft water, as opposed to ice in the
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70 degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the
first warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.



question for the group???? do you release the preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put
them
in when i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks
in
and push it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find
the problem tomorrow.



andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi andy i park with the nose gear pointing aft always then the
pressure can bleed off which it does and nothing happens

i`m going to make a set of the tubes that go over the rod on the
cylinder
just for when i push backwards
what material did you use? aluminum tubing? how do you make sure it`s
out
before takoff?

bob fisher rebel 342 on 1800 amphibs parry sound ont


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Bowman" <bowmanout@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the
same
as
an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's there
has
not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.


almost all our lakes have become soft water, as opposed to ice in the
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70
degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the first
warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.


question for the group???? do you release the preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose
wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put them in
when
i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks in and
push
it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find the
problem
tomorrow.


andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!



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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Epoxy primer

Wayne (and others):
The strontium chromate primer we use is covered by the following data.
It is two part epoxy and the thinner is the high humidity, blush
resistant type. One of the two companies mentioned bought the other
(don't remember which) but they should be able to cross reference.

Pratt & Lambert high solids epoxy thinner 110-059.
Pratt & Lambert epoxy primer curing agent P610421.
Sherwin Williams corrosion protective epoxy primer CM0483660.

The mix ratio is 2 resin to 1 curing agent. Mix throughly and wait 20
minutes. Then thin about 25% to spray.
Do not spray without a mask rated for this service! Read the mask
canister data and be sure.
Ralph Baker


---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

Hi Bob,

My partner, Clint, made the inserts out of pvc tubing, the idea came
from
someone on this list. they are slit open on the bottoms to a width that
allows them to snap on over/around the cylinder rods. to assist in
installation and removal, they have pcv handles glued to them at about a
70 degree angle. to avoid departure with them installed we painted them
red. we have flown with them installed before we ready to try inflight
retraction. no problems.

hope this helps.

Andy


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!

---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system
does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I
kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to
over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you
have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi andy i park with the nose gear pointing aft always then the
pressure can bleed off which it does and nothing happens

i`m going to make a set of the tubes that go over the rod on the
cylinder
just for when i push backwards
what material did you use? aluminum tubing? how do you make sure
it`s
out
before takoff?

bob fisher rebel 342 on 1800 amphibs parry sound ont


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Bowman" <bowmanout@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no suffix. it is the
same
as
an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since the 60's there
has
not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70
degree temps. we finished our float install in oct so this was the
first
warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.
in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels castered aft and
leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with 0 preassure and
landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose
wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not forget to put them in
when
i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to put the locks in and
push
it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to find the
problem
tomorrow.

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---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My 0320 conical mount also has no suffix. I had it overhauled as
a non certified engine, so it probably doesn't resemble anything
now. It came set up for a constant speed, but I converted it for
FP. I always thought it originally came out of a Tri-Pacer.

I always release the pressure on the selector valve and keep it
in the neutral position after the gear is cycled up or down. That
way I don't put any pressure on the lines or fittings. Just
before take-off, I do have to pump them up again, so the wheels
don't drag in the water. I use the standard MAM lines, and no
problems so far. I actually preferred the clear lines, because I
could get all the air out of the system, without any messy
bleeding.

I only use the front locks when pulling it in the hangar. With
the wheels castered back as in the moving forward position, the
gear will not collapse, but if they are castered to the front as
when pulling back, they most certainly will. I use PVC pipe for
locks, cut just enough so they pop in place around the cylinder
shaft.

As for leaks, I did have some initially on some fittings, but
managed to fix them all. In some cases, I had to change the
little brass collar to a different style from a local automotive
shop, that worked better for me.

One thing to watch for, is make sure your rubber hose from the
pump to the selector valve is not fuel line as MAM apparently
shipped to some builders. Can't remember the exact PSI, but I
think mine was 600. Bruce G. would know as he found that out the
hard way, after we flew into a remote alpine lake last summer and
it sat there in the hot sun with his selector valve not in
neutral.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Andy Bowman
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 5:18 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320




hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine built in
1956 came from a money. it's model designation is
0320. there is no suffix. it is the same as an
0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that since
the 60's there has not been an 0-320 mooney, but the
logs that came with this freshly overhauled 0-320
definitely say that it spent it's younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.



almost all our lakes have become soft water, as
opposed to ice in the last 3 days. in fact i would
have done my first 2005 water landing, but, i lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a blacktop
ramp for 3 hours in 70 degree temps. we finished our
float install in oct so this was the first warm high
sun angle day she has sat out in.



question for the group???? do you release the
preassure on you hydro in these conditions? or do you
park with nose wheels castered aft and leave 100lbs on
the system??? that is what i did and one of the
fittings leaked. for those who have not done this, i
took off with 0 preassure and landed same. no problem.
i do wish i'd brought the "backup" pvc locks for the
nose wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not
forget to put them in when i backed the plane into the
hangar. i decided to put the locks in and push it in
frontwards when i got back to my hangar. i'll try to
find the problem tomorrow.



andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


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---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My hydraulic system loses pressure after about 10minutes I replaced the
lines with truck air brake lines and fittings I've also replaced both
the
pump check valves and there's no apparent leaks so at least one of my
cylinders must have an internal leak. I can live with it the way it is
now
I just have to remember to give a short stroke on the pump when on
final.
Maybe a little bit of air in the system would keep the pressure from
going
too high when parked.

At 09:46 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system
does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I
kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to
over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you
have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne
Drew



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Not sure what's happening Bruce... don't understand the the "can't
display
image" either... there isn't anything to display? Once you click the
upload
now button are you clicking on anything else? If so, you must not do
this... once you enter your file information and click upload now... you
need to wait until the screen shows upload successful. There is no
indication that anything is happening. Anyway, just send me the pics
and
a
description, and I'll take care of it. Oh, and while I prefer that pics
uploaded are 640x480, it's just to make them easy to view for everybody
on
the list. There are no limitations to what you upload.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Mike,

I know it has been awhile since I uploaded any pics but I have tried
several
times with the same resolute. After the upload is half complete I get
a
"can't display image" message. I reduced the file size using IrfanView
but it
doesn't seem to matter.

Bruce
---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I have found even with the selector valve in the neutral position the
pressure can built as the temperature changes. I've come to the hanger
some days
and found the lines as high as 450 psi.

As Walter said, you should make sure you were shipped hydraulic hose and
not
fuel line from MAM, or you will be cleaning hydraulic fluid from weeping
rivets and overlaps for the next year. The stuff is like Corrosion
X...or
even
better.

Bruce


---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

So what this thread is saying is that it would be worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that my hydraulic system
does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the hanger as well...so I
kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the pressure from 100 to
over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can say is YES, once you
have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne


snip



---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

Jesse Jenks wrote:
Thanks for the tips on the tips Ken.
So did the guys that installed the tip rib with flanges outboard cut a
hole
in them to clear the hinge bolts? Don't know if I'm missing something
here.
Don't know but I'd guess that they did.
Also, why did you have to make your rudder tip longer, and in what
dimension
are you talking about?
Thanks.
Jesse

It was almost a half inch too short forward and aft. I've seen one Rebel
that was the same but he just slit the trailing edge so that the
trailing edge of the tip did not wrap around the rudder. All four other
tips were a perfect fit.

Ken




---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From: wudoktor@aol.com
To: rebel-builders-d
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

I may have used a similar epoxy primer

Sherwin Williams Aerospace Coating
meets MIL-P-23377F
two part mix
CMO724114 Adduct
and CMO724400 yellow primer

Apparently is a corrosion inhibitor and bonds pretty well to clean
alum.
Wicks fairly well between riveted surfaces except for compressed
contact
surfaces right under the rivet head.

Tony Wu N518R




---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then any pressure change
can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change the lever and
give
a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson doesn't decide to
move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
So what this thread is saying is that it would be worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
kinda
snip





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Drew



---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

"Or just leave the selector in the up position."


And make sure your nose gear is castered back and/or your PVC locks are
on
or you will take a nose dive! Been there and done that too.


Bruce


---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Even when put in the up position you are going to build pressure from
sun/temp on the other side of the system back to the hydraulic pump.
Putting
in neutral, as Walter does, only protects the line from the selector to
the
pump. Neutral is actually a locked postion so now you have pressure
building
in both the up and down lines as neither is now vented back to tank. The
only thing I use the neutral position for is removing lines... as very
little fluid loss since no air in means no fluid out.

Ken's probably hit the nail on the head...we probably should be teeing a
pressure relief valve, set at about 300 psi, into the line from the pump
to
the selector valve and then be sure to leave the selector either up or
down
to protect the entire system at all times.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then any pressure change
can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change the lever and
give
a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson doesn't decide to
move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
does
amphibs
kinda
valves.
Just
over
after
that
Sure
glad
c/w
have
gauge
Drew





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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I know mine does not hold pressure for any length of time, but
there are no external leaks. Has not been a problem for me, but I
just need to remember to pump up a couple of strokes prior to
take-off on water so my mains don't drag.

In fact, after reading this, I'm thinking I prefer some slight
internal leak through check valves, cylinder O rings or wherever
it is, so that I don't get any pressure build-ups in the heat. I
guess that's why I have never seen it on mine and no external
leaks. However, as I mentioned in a previous post, I do always
relieve pressure after cycling the gear and leave the selector in
neutral. I know some do it differently, but I think I'll stick
with my method, as it has served me well so far.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 7:53 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


Or just leave the selector in the up position. Then
any pressure change can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to change
the lever and give a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful lineperson
doesn't decide to move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote: worth installing a hydraulic system does pump. Howard's amphibs as well...so I kinda cylinders or check valves. Just pressure from 100 to over left it a Zero after that pressure at 550psi! Sure glad some preflared c/w is YES, once you have and check the gauge ----------- https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML -----------
Drew





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---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From: srwhitenect@hotmail.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Exhaust Support



Hi Guys
I made my own exhaust system for my Christavia which was a cross over
with
straight pipes. I made a small plate (about 3" x 1 1/2") and matched
the
two rear center bolt holes for the oil pan. I welded two 1/2 inch (about
10"
long) tubes each pointing down towards an exhaust pipe. I then took a
piece
of 3/8 tube and made an open ended triangle that that came down from
behind
the engine to one pipe-flattened out an area to clamp to the pipe-
across
to
the other pipe-flattened area again and then up behind the engine again.
A
small piece of 3/8 pipe was welded as a support about two inches away
from
each corner that attaches to the exhaust tube. When this was completed
and
fitted the two exhaust stacks without any load, it was disassembled and
the
two upper 3/8 tubes were slid into the 1/2 tubes (telescopic) and
reassembled. When it was all snug in place and under no load, the 3/8
and
1/2 tubes were welded. I don't think it weighted a pound and was out of
way
of everything I had installed. Put about 400 hours on this system
before
I
put the aircraft away for storage, mostly on floats and have never had a
crack-knock on wood. Will be doing something similiar when I reach the
point
with my rebel. Can also use to support throttle- mixture- carb heat
cables.
Everything is isolated to the engine. Can't get any pictures for about
another month when I take the aircraft out of storage for Oshkosh.

Steve W.
Rebel #637



---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Todays silly question is which way are guys wiring the trim rocker
switch if installed on the instrument panel? Push the top to go nose
down or push the top to go nose up? If you think about a trim wheel or a
stick mounted trim switch then pushing the top for nose down makes
sense. Or you can just think of it as an up/down switch....

In case you think I'm totally nutty, the manufacturer supplies labelling
for either way:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html

Also at the bottom of that page is a $30. position sensor that looks
like it could be used to feed one of their $77. position indicators if
someone with electric flaps wanted a panel mounted indicator.

Ken




---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From: sa@mwutah.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Didn't some one say once that no questions are silly?

I suspect the majority will be push the top for nose down trim, bottom
for
nose up.

Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ken
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 2:25 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Todays silly question is which way are guys wiring the trim rocker
switch if installed on the instrument panel? Push the top to go nose
down or push the top to go nose up? If you think about a trim wheel or
a
stick mounted trim switch then pushing the top for nose down makes
sense. Or you can just think of it as an up/down switch....

In case you think I'm totally nutty, the manufacturer supplies
labelling
for either way:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html

Also at the bottom of that page is a $30. position sensor that looks
like it could be used to feed one of their $77. position indicators if
someone with electric flaps wanted a panel mounted indicator.

Ken






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---------- Digest Message #20 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float hydro presure

hi,

thanks to all for the helpful info. we did not finish our float install
until mid october.
as a result, we are for the first time encountering high sun angles and
70+ degree temps.
we are learning quickly what not to do. with your help we will hopfully
not have to make any more landings with zero on the presure guage.

i am inclined to go with a relief valve. my short term solution was to
put
together a repair kit with the correct wrenches, hydro fluid, and some
spare fittings.

tomorrow i hope to splash for the first time in 2005.

andy


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!

---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:06:02 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi guys thanks everyone for all the interesting coments i guess
this
is
why this forum is sooooo valuable bob fisher
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 12:10 PM
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I know mine does not hold pressure for any length of time, but
there are no external leaks. Has not been a problem for me, but I
just need to remember to pump up a couple of strokes prior to
take-off on water so my mains don't drag.

In fact, after reading this, I'm thinking I prefer some slight
internal leak through check valves, cylinder O rings or wherever
it is, so that I don't get any pressure build-ups in the heat. I
guess that's why I have never seen it on mine and no external
leaks. However, as I mentioned in a previous post, I do always
relieve pressure after cycling the gear and leave the selector in
neutral. I know some do it differently, but I think I'll stick
with my method, as it has served me well so far.

Walter


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Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Walter Klatt
Angus, did you notice an increase in performance when you went
from your old MAM mild steel exhaust to your new one?

And what did you do with your old exhaust?

I still use the old MAM mild steel exhaust on mine and have 320
hours on them so far. I did have the right ones welded in the Y
where the cross over joins, because I initially didn't have them
supported properly at the tail pipes end. However, I don't expect
them to last too much longer and either need another spare set,
or buy the new SS that most Rebels are using these days.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 8:57 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Power flow exhaust:


Just a quick comment.
I was able to get a local shop (a friend of John
Goris')to build me a new
exhaust of 2" stainless exhaust system. 1-3/4" is
stock Lycoming. This shop
does sanitary piping in commercial dairies , cheese
factories and the like.
All of the pipe segments are cut from mandrel bends
and purge welded, TIG.

Two friends,one from Leavens and one from Leggats had
involvement in the
construction of our 0-320-A2B. It has some performance
extras including
+.010 0-360 pistons and big valves. Both of these
mechanics felt that
performance would benefit from the larger exhaust. My
friend from Leggats
lent me an 0-320 core engine/cylinders. I took in that
core with my old MAM
mild steel cross-over exhaust and a new set of 4
stainless exhaust flange
blanks and ,viola, new pipes,an exact duplication
including flange rings for
the heat muffs, slip joints on the cross-over,etc.

This system has no muffler and mounts only on the
exhaust studs, only has
100hrs on it from last year, no cracks, good
performance and a distinctive
sound. I am very pleased with it. It is a shame to
have to cover the fine
welding and outstanding craftsmanship with the engine
cowl as they look so
nice...............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alvin and Glenys Adams"
<gander.electrical@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 12:46 PM
Subject: Power flow exhaust:

Thanks for information.Will scrap ideal off power
flow.I do not want a
noisy
aircraft either inside or outside.If i go with the
speed cowl can i
practically install a exhaust with a muffler or do i
have to go with tho
nose bowl cowling.

Regards: Alvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages
in digest: 21
1 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

2 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

3 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: Epoxy primer

4 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

5 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

6 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

7 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

8 Date : Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

9 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

10 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

11 Date : Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

12 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From : wudoktor@aol.com
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

13 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From : drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

14 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From : legeorgen@aol.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

15 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

16 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From : walter.klatt@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

17 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From : srwhitenect@hotmail.com
Subject: Exhaust Support

18 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap
position indicator
19 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From : sa@mwutah.com
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap
position indicator
20 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From : bowmanout@yahoo.com
Subject: RE: float hydro presure

21 Date : Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:06:02 -0400
From : rgfisher@zeuter.com
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320



hi,



My 0-320, 150 hp, non-dynafocal mount, engine
built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no
suffix. it is the
same
as an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct
that since the 60's
there
has not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that
came with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's
younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.



almost all our lakes have become soft water, as
opposed to ice in the
last
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005
water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70 degree temps. we finished our float install in
oct so this was the
first warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.



question for the group???? do you release the
preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels
castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one
of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with
0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the
"backup" pvc locks for the
nose wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would
not forget to put
them
in when i backed the plane into the hangar. i
decided to put the locks
in
and push it in frontwards when i got back to my
hangar. i'll try to find
the problem tomorrow.



andy

1088 amphibs

christavia mk=1

mich


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:06:55 -0400
From: rgfisher@zeuter.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

hi andy i park with the nose gear pointing aft
always then the
pressure can bleed off which it does and
nothing happens
i`m going to make a set of the tubes that go over
the rod on the
cylinder
just for when i push backwards
what material did you use? aluminum tubing? how
do you make sure it`s
out
before takoff?

bob fisher rebel 342 on 1800 amphibs parry sound ont


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Bowman" <bowmanout@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

built in 1956 came from a
money. it's model designation is 0320. there is no
suffix. it is the
same
as
an 0-320-a1 i think. you are probably correct that
since the 60's there
has
not been an 0-320 mooney, but the logs that came
with this freshly
overhauled 0-320 definitely say that it spent it's
younger days flying
faster than it is now in my christavia mk=1.
opposed to ice in the
3 days. in fact i would have done my first 2005
water landing, but, i
lost
hydraulic preassure after the plane sat on a
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70
degree temps. we finished our float install in oct
so this was the first
warm high sun angle day she has sat out in.
preassure on you hydro in
these conditions? or do you park with nose wheels
castered aft and leave
100lbs on the system??? that is what i did and one
of the fittings
leaked.
for those who have not done this, i took off with
0 preassure and landed
same. no problem. i do wish i'd brought the
"backup" pvc locks for the
nose
wheels, but i left them on my ramp so i would not
forget to put them in
when
i backed the plane into the hangar. i decided to
put the locks in and
push
it in frontwards when i got back to my hangar.
i'll try to find the
problem
tomorrow.
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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:16:41 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Epoxy primer

Wayne (and others):
The strontium chromate primer we use is covered by
the following data.
It is two part epoxy and the thinner is the high
humidity, blush
resistant type. One of the two companies
mentioned bought the other
(don't remember which) but they should be able to
cross reference.
Pratt & Lambert high solids epoxy thinner 110-059.
Pratt & Lambert epoxy primer curing agent P610421.
Sherwin Williams corrosion protective epoxy primer
CM0483660.
The mix ratio is 2 resin to 1 curing agent. Mix
throughly and wait 20
minutes. Then thin about 25% to spray.
Do not spray without a mask rated for this
service! Read the mask
canister data and be sure.
Ralph Baker


---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: bowmanout@yahoo.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: nose gear back-up/foldup tubes

Hi Bob,

My partner, Clint, made the inserts out of pvc
tubing, the idea came
from
someone on this list. they are slit open on the
bottoms to a width that
allows them to snap on over/around the cylinder
rods. to assist in
installation and removal, they have pcv handles
glued to them at about a
70 degree angle. to avoid departure with them
installed we painted them
red. we have flown with them installed before we
ready to try inflight
retraction. no problems.

hope this helps.

Andy


---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!

---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 21:46:22 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I can tell you, as I did earlier this winter that
my hydraulic system
does
not bleed down what so ever on my skis using the
MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
would stay at pressure all winter long in the
hanger as well...so I
kinda
wonder if you guys have internally leaking
cylinders or check valves.
Just
a short park in the sun in -15c weather took the
pressure from 100 to
over
600psi shinning on my black stratoflex hoses. I'd
left it a Zero after
that
and went into the hanger today +12 to find the
pressure at 550psi! Sure
glad
I went with all solid (Stainless - only cause I
had some preflared c/w
fittings that worked out) lines. Guess all I can
say is YES, once you
have
the airplane parked where you want it bleed to
zero and check the gauge
often.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

always then the
nothing happens
the rod on the
cylinder
how do you make sure
it`s
out
built in 1956 came from
a
no suffix. it is the
same
as
that since the 60's there
has
with this freshly
it's younger days flying
opposed to ice in the
last
water landing, but, i
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
70
oct so this was the
first
preassure on you hydro
in
castered aft and
leave
one of the fittings
0 preassure and
landed
"backup" pvc locks for the
nose
forget to put them in
when
put the locks in and
i'll try to find the
problem
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----------


---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 19:00:47 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My 0320 conical mount also has no suffix. I had it
overhauled as
a non certified engine, so it probably doesn't
resemble anything
now. It came set up for a constant speed, but I
converted it for
FP. I always thought it originally came out of a Tri-Pacer.

I always release the pressure on the selector
valve and keep it
in the neutral position after the gear is cycled
up or down. That
way I don't put any pressure on the lines or fittings. Just
before take-off, I do have to pump them up again,
so the wheels
don't drag in the water. I use the standard MAM
lines, and no
problems so far. I actually preferred the clear
lines, because I
could get all the air out of the system, without any messy
bleeding.

I only use the front locks when pulling it in the
hangar. With
the wheels castered back as in the moving forward
position, the
gear will not collapse, but if they are castered
to the front as
when pulling back, they most certainly will. I use
PVC pipe for
locks, cut just enough so they pop in place around
the cylinder
shaft.

As for leaks, I did have some initially on some
fittings, but
managed to fix them all. In some cases, I had to change the
little brass collar to a different style from a
local automotive
shop, that worked better for me.

One thing to watch for, is make sure your rubber
hose from the
pump to the selector valve is not fuel line as MAM
apparently
shipped to some builders. Can't remember the exact
PSI, but I
think mine was 600. Bruce G. would know as he
found that out the
hard way, after we flew into a remote alpine lake
last summer and
it sat there in the hot sun with his selector valve not in
neutral.

Walter
---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:39:33 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

My hydraulic system loses pressure after about
10minutes I replaced the
lines with truck air brake lines and fittings I've
also replaced both
the
pump check valves and there's no apparent leaks so
at least one of my
cylinders must have an internal leak. I can live
with it the way it is
now
I just have to remember to give a short stroke on
the pump when on
final.
Maybe a little bit of air in the system would keep
the pressure from
going
too high when parked.

At 09:46 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
my hydraulic system
does
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
over
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the gauge
Drew



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 18:44:25 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Not sure what's happening Bruce... don't
understand the the "can't
display
image" either... there isn't anything to display?
Once you click the
upload
now button are you clicking on anything else? If
so, you must not do
this... once you enter your file information and
click upload now... you
need to wait until the screen shows upload
successful. There is no
indication that anything is happening. Anyway,
just send me the pics
and
a
description, and I'll take care of it. Oh, and
while I prefer that pics
uploaded are 640x480, it's just to make them easy
to view for everybody
on
the list. There are no limitations to what you upload.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

pics but I have tried
half complete I get
a
size using IrfanView
---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 00:11:03 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I have found even with the selector valve in the
neutral position the
pressure can built as the temperature changes.
I've come to the hanger
some days
and found the lines as high as 450 psi.

As Walter said, you should make sure you were
shipped hydraulic hose and
not
fuel line from MAM, or you will be cleaning
hydraulic fluid from weeping
rivets and overlaps for the next year. The stuff
is like Corrosion
X...or
even
better.

Bruce


---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:43:35 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

So what this thread is saying is that it would be
worth installing a
pressure relief valve if using plastic hydraulic lines...
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
my hydraulic system
does
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
over
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the gauge
snip



---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 22:52:27 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips

Jesse Jenks wrote:
flanges outboard cut a
I'm missing something
Don't know but I'd guess that they did.
longer, and in what
It was almost a half inch too short forward and
aft. I've seen one Rebel
that was the same but he just slit the trailing
edge so that the
trailing edge of the tip did not wrap around the
rudder. All four other
tips were a perfect fit.

Ken




---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 08:56:16 EDT
From: wudoktor@aol.com
To: rebel-builders-d
Subject: Strontium Chromate primer - Sherwin williams

I may have used a similar epoxy primer

Sherwin Williams Aerospace Coating
meets MIL-P-23377F
two part mix
CMO724114 Adduct
and CMO724400 yellow primer

Apparently is a corrosion inhibitor and bonds
pretty well to clean
alum.
Wicks fairly well between riveted surfaces except
for compressed
contact
surfaces right under the rivet head.

Tony Wu N518R




---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 10:52:54 -0400
From: drewjan@cabletv.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Or just leave the selector in the up position.
Then any pressure change
can
vent back to the tank. Just have to remember to
change the lever and
give
a
pump before moving. And hope some helpful
lineperson doesn't decide to
move
your plane while you're gone.

At 10:43 PM 4/9/2005 -0400, you wrote:
worth installing a
my hydraulic system
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
zero and check the gauge
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Drew



---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:19:59 EDT
From: legeorgen@aol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

"Or just leave the selector in the up position."


And make sure your nose gear is castered back
and/or your PVC locks are
on
or you will take a nose dive! Been there and done that too.


Bruce


---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:30:18 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Even when put in the up position you are going to
build pressure from
sun/temp on the other side of the system back to
the hydraulic pump.
Putting
in neutral, as Walter does, only protects the line
from the selector to
the
pump. Neutral is actually a locked postion so now
you have pressure
building
in both the up and down lines as neither is now
vented back to tank. The
only thing I use the neutral position for is
removing lines... as very
little fluid loss since no air in means no fluid out.

Ken's probably hit the nail on the head...we
probably should be teeing a
pressure relief valve, set at about 300 psi, into
the line from the pump
to
the selector valve and then be sure to leave the
selector either up or
down
to protect the entire system at all times.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

Then any pressure change
can
change the lever and
give
a
lineperson doesn't decide to
move
be worth installing a
that my hydraulic system
does
the MAM pump. Howard's
amphibs
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check
valves.
Just
the pressure from 100 to
over
I'd left it a Zero
after
that
pressure at 550psi!
Sure
glad
had some preflared
c/w
can say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the
gauge
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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:10:42 -0700
From: walter.klatt@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: float question and mooney with lyc 0-320

I know mine does not hold pressure for any length
of time, but
there are no external leaks. Has not been a
problem for me, but I
just need to remember to pump up a couple of
strokes prior to
take-off on water so my mains don't drag.

In fact, after reading this, I'm thinking I prefer
some slight
internal leak through check valves, cylinder O
rings or wherever
it is, so that I don't get any pressure build-ups
in the heat. I
guess that's why I have never seen it on mine and
no external
leaks. However, as I mentioned in a previous post,
I do always
relieve pressure after cycling the gear and leave
the selector in
neutral. I know some do it differently, but I
think I'll stick
with my method, as it has served me well so far.

Walter
---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 18:55:49 +0000
From: srwhitenect@hotmail.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Exhaust Support



Hi Guys
I made my own exhaust system for my Christavia
which was a cross over
with
straight pipes. I made a small plate (about 3" x
1 1/2") and matched
the
two rear center bolt holes for the oil pan. I
welded two 1/2 inch (about
10"
long) tubes each pointing down towards an exhaust
pipe. I then took a
piece
of 3/8 tube and made an open ended triangle that
that came down from
behind
the engine to one pipe-flattened out an area to
clamp to the pipe-
across
to
the other pipe-flattened area again and then up
behind the engine again.
A
small piece of 3/8 pipe was welded as a support
about two inches away
from
each corner that attaches to the exhaust tube.
When this was completed
and
fitted the two exhaust stacks without any load, it
was disassembled and
the
two upper 3/8 tubes were slid into the 1/2 tubes
(telescopic) and
reassembled. When it was all snug in place and
under no load, the 3/8
and
1/2 tubes were welded. I don't think it weighted a
pound and was out of
way
of everything I had installed. Put about 400
hours on this system
before
I
put the aircraft away for storage, mostly on
floats and have never had a
crack-knock on wood. Will be doing something
similiar when I reach the
point
with my rebel. Can also use to support throttle-
mixture- carb heat
cables.
Everything is isolated to the engine. Can't get
any pictures for about
another month when I take the aircraft out of
storage for Oshkosh.
Steve W.
Rebel #637



---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25:22 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Elevator Trim direction/ flap position indicator

Todays silly question is which way are guys wiring
the trim rocker
switch if installed on the instrument panel? Push
the top to go nose
down or push the top to go nose up? If you think
about a trim wheel or a
stick mounted trim switch then pushing the top for
nose down makes
sense. Or you can just think of it as an up/down switch....

In case you think I'm totally nutty, the
manufacturer supplies labelling
for either way:
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html

Also at the bottom of that page is a $30. position
sensor that looks
like it could be used to feed one of their $77.
position indicators if
someone with electric flaps wanted a panel mounted
indicator.
Ken




---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:50:54 -0600
From: sa@mwutah.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Elevator Trim direction/ flap
position indicator
Didn't some one say once that no questions are silly?

I suspect the majority will be push the top for
nose down trim, bottom
for
nose up.

Scott
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ken
wiring the trim rocker
the top to go nose
about a trim wheel or
a
for nose down makes
switch....
manufacturer supplies
labelling
position sensor that looks
position indicators if
mounted indicator.
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[/quote:7

Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Angus McKenzie
Hi Walter
I'm not observant enough to have noticed a difference. If it changed it was
a small amount.
The old exhaust has been repaired annually and had begun to carbonize at the
outlets. It is on a parts shelf in our shop.
The repair was usually required at the Y on the right side pipe.
We like the stainless.
Sorry we did not see you last week, Ken said he enjoyed your
visit.............Cheers, Angus




----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:05 PM
Subject: RE: Power flow exhaust:

Angus, did you notice an increase in performance when you went
from your old MAM mild steel exhaust to your new one?

And what did you do with your old exhaust?

I still use the old MAM mild steel exhaust on mine and have 320
hours on them so far. I did have the right ones welded in the Y
where the cross over joins, because I initially didn't have them
supported properly at the tail pipes end. However, I don't expect
them to last too much longer and either need another spare set,
or buy the new SS that most Rebels are using these days.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 8:57 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Power flow exhaust:


Just a quick comment.
I was able to get a local shop (a friend of John
Goris')to build me a new
exhaust of 2" stainless exhaust system. 1-3/4" is
stock Lycoming. This shop
does sanitary piping in commercial dairies , cheese
factories and the like.
All of the pipe segments are cut from mandrel bends
and purge welded, TIG.

Two friends,one from Leavens and one from Leggats had
involvement in the
construction of our 0-320-A2B. It has some performance
extras including
+.010 0-360 pistons and big valves. Both of these
mechanics felt that
performance would benefit from the larger exhaust. My
friend from Leggats
lent me an 0-320 core engine/cylinders. I took in that
core with my old MAM
mild steel cross-over exhaust and a new set of 4
stainless exhaust flange
blanks and ,viola, new pipes,an exact duplication
including flange rings for
the heat muffs, slip joints on the cross-over,etc.

This system has no muffler and mounts only on the
exhaust studs, only has
100hrs on it from last year, no cracks, good
performance and a distinctive
sound. I am very pleased with it. It is a shame to
have to cover the fine
welding and outstanding craftsmanship with the engine
cowl as they look so
nice...............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alvin and Glenys Adams"
<gander.electrical@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 12:46 PM
Subject: Power flow exhaust:

Thanks for information.Will scrap ideal off power
flow.I do not want a
noisy
aircraft either inside or outside.If i go with the
speed cowl can i
practically install a exhaust with a muffler or do i
have to go with tho
nose bowl cowling.

Regards: Alvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

in digest: 21
position indicator
position indicator
built in 1956 came from a
suffix. it is the
same
that since the 60's
there
came with this freshly
younger days flying
opposed to ice in the
last
water landing, but, i
lost
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
oct so this was the
preassure on you hydro in
castered aft and leave
of the fittings
leaked.
0 preassure and landed
"backup" pvc locks for the
not forget to put
them
decided to put the locks
in
hangar. i'll try to find
always then the
nothing happens
the rod on the
cylinder
do you make sure it`s
built in 1956 came from a
suffix. it is the
same
since the 60's there
with this freshly
younger days flying
opposed to ice in the
water landing, but, i
lost
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
so this was the first
preassure on you hydro in
castered aft and leave
of the fittings
leaked.
0 preassure and landed
"backup" pvc locks for the
forget to put them in
put the locks in and
push
i'll try to find the
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the following data.
humidity, blush
mentioned bought the other
cross reference.
CM0483660.
throughly and wait 20
service! Read the mask
tubing, the idea came
from
bottoms to a width that
rods. to assist in
glued to them at about a
installed we painted them
ready to try inflight
my hydraulic system
does
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
over
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the gauge
always then the
nothing happens
the rod on the
cylinder
how do you make sure
it`s
built in 1956 came from
a
no suffix. it is the
same
that since the 60's there
with this freshly
it's younger days flying
opposed to ice in the
water landing, but, i
blacktop ramp for 3 hours
in
oct so this was the
first
preassure on you hydro
in
castered aft and
leave
one of the fittings
0 preassure and
landed
"backup" pvc locks for the
forget to put them in
put the locks in and
i'll try to find the
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overhauled as
resemble anything
converted it for
valve and keep it
up or down. That
so the wheels
lines, and no
lines, because I
hangar. With
position, the
to the front as
PVC pipe for
the cylinder
fittings, but
local automotive
hose from the
apparently
PSI, but I
found that out the
last summer and
10minutes I replaced the
also replaced both
the
at least one of my
with it the way it is
now
the pump when on
final.
the pressure from
going
my hydraulic system
does
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
over
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the gauge
understand the the "can't
display
Once you click the
so, you must not do
click upload now... you
successful. There is no
just send me the pics
and
while I prefer that pics
to view for everybody
on
pics but I have tried
half complete I get
a
size using IrfanView
neutral position the
I've come to the hanger
shipped hydraulic hose and
hydraulic fluid from weeping
is like Corrosion
X...or
worth installing a
my hydraulic system
does
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
over
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
have
zero and check the gauge
flanges outboard cut a
I'm missing something
longer, and in what
aft. I've seen one Rebel
edge so that the
rudder. All four other
pretty well to clean
alum.
for compressed
contact
Then any pressure change
change the lever and
give
lineperson doesn't decide to
worth installing a
my hydraulic system
MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
kinda
cylinders or check valves.
pressure from 100 to
left it a Zero after
pressure at 550psi! Sure
had some preflared c/w
say is YES, once you
zero and check the gauge
------------
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------------
and/or your PVC locks are
on
build pressure from
the hydraulic pump.
from the selector to
you have pressure
vented back to tank. The
removing lines... as very
probably should be teeing a
the line from the pump
selector either up or
Then any pressure change
change the lever and
give
lineperson doesn't decide to
be worth installing a
that my hydraulic system
the MAM pump. Howard's
hanger as well...so I
cylinders or check
valves.
the pressure from 100 to
I'd left it a Zero
after
pressure at 550psi!
Sure
had some preflared
c/w
can say is YES, once you
zero and check the
gauge
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of time, but
problem for me, but I
strokes prior to
some slight
rings or wherever
in the heat. I
no external
I do always
the selector in
think I'll stick
which was a cross over
with
1 1/2") and matched
the
welded two 1/2 inch (about
pipe. I then took a
that came down from
clamp to the pipe-
across
behind the engine again.
A
about two inches away
from
When this was completed
and
was disassembled and
(telescopic) and
under no load, the 3/8
and
pound and was out of
hours on this system
before
floats and have never had a
similiar when I reach the
mixture- carb heat
any pictures for about
storage for Oshkosh.
the trim rocker
the top to go nose
about a trim wheel or a
nose down makes
manufacturer supplies labelling
sensor that looks
position indicators if
indicator.
position indicator
nose down trim, bottom
for
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Ken
wiring the trim rocker
the top to go nose
about a trim wheel or
a
for nose down makes
switch....
manufacturer supplies
labelling
position sensor that looks
position indicators if
moun

Power flow exhaust:

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am
by Walter Klatt
Yeah, sounds like your old exhaust cracked in the same spot as
mine.

So, this new exhaust, is this a one-of, or will it be available
for sale?

It was very interesting to see Ken's Subaru Rebel. Pretty hard to
improve on that one.

And again, if any of you guys from out east, or elsewhere ever
make it to Vancouver, look me up, and maybe we can go for a
flight.

On a side note, I was out at the Langley airport this evening,
and saw an amphib Moose with the M14P do a couple touch and go's.
Didn't catch the ident, but could have been Ryan Mowat's old
plane.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 7:18 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Power flow exhaust:


Hi Walter
I'm not observant enough to have noticed a difference.
If it changed it was
a small amount.
The old exhaust has been repaired annually and had
begun to carbonize at the
outlets. It is on a parts shelf in our shop.
The repair was usually required at the Y on the right
side pipe.
We like the stainless.
Sorry we did not see you last week, Ken said he enjoyed your
visit.............Cheers, Angus




----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:05 PM
Subject: RE: Power flow exhaust:

Angus, did you notice an increase in performance
when you went
from your old MAM mild steel exhaust to your new one?

And what did you do with your old exhaust?

I still use the old MAM mild steel exhaust on mine
and have 320
hours on them so far. I did have the right ones
welded in the Y
where the cross over joins, because I initially
didn't have them
supported properly at the tail pipes end. However, I
don't expect
them to last too much longer and either need another
spare set,
or buy the new SS that most Rebels are using these days.

Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Angus McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 8:57 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Power flow exhaust:


Just a quick comment.
I was able to get a local shop (a friend of John
Goris')to build me a new
exhaust of 2" stainless exhaust system. 1-3/4" is
stock Lycoming. This shop
does sanitary piping in commercial dairies , cheese
factories and the like.
All of the pipe segments are cut from mandrel bends
and purge welded, TIG.

Two friends,one from Leavens and one from Leggats had
involvement in the
construction of our 0-320-A2B. It has some performance
extras including
+.010 0-360 pistons and big valves. Both of these
mechanics felt that
performance would benefit from the larger exhaust. My
friend from Leggats
lent me an 0-320 core engine/cylinders. I took in that
core with my old MAM
mild steel cross-over exhaust and a new set of 4
stainless exhaust flange
blanks and ,viola, new pipes,an exact duplication
including flange rings for
the heat muffs, slip joints on the cross-over,etc.

This system has no muffler and mounts only on the
exhaust studs, only has
100hrs on it from last year, no cracks, good
performance and a distinctive
sound. I am very pleased with it. It is a shame to
have to cover the fine
welding and outstanding craftsmanship with the engine
cowl as they look so
nice...............Angus

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alvin and Glenys Adams"
<gander.electrical@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 12:46 PM
Subject: Power flow exhaust:


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