The Murphy Builders Site

I am getting ready to build and attach my Fife tail tips. A few questions:
For the rudder, the man. says to put the closeout/tip rib in with the
flanges up, face down. This will obviously interfere with the hinge bolt and
it's safety bolt. Options seem to be to cut a triangular hole for them to
protrude into the tip, or install the rib upside down? I am leaning toward
the second option, which would require using a shorter safety bolt as it
sticks up farther than the hinge bolt. Is it better to just buy new bolts
when you need a different size than what is called for, or try to find one
that belongs to some future part and replace later? I think I will need to
replace all three upper/outer safety bolts with shorter ones for this
reason. I also feel that the lower/inner hinge bolts are too short and don't
go far enough into the nutplates in the end plugs. Any thought's on this?
There is the same discrepancy on the elev. tips. The main diagram shows the
flanges facing outboard , with one of the drawings in the instructions
showing them facing inboard. I assume that everyone puts them facing inboard
for clearance on the hinge bolts, and so the counterweights can go on the
inboard side of the rib. Any tips on installing the counterweights? Again,
the bolts called for seem much too long. Any reason not to just use a few
3/16 rivets counterboared into the led to get the proper grip length?
Thanks.
Jesse





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Jesse
Several guys have put the rib in the tips with the flanges facing
outboard and it does look a bit nicer. However I put mine facing inboard
as per the manual and didn't have any issues that I can recall. I did
have to make the Fife rudder tip about a half inch longer but I have
since learned an easy way to deal with that. I wasted hours searching
for hardware before I picked up some plastic parts trays with hinged
lids from Wally Mart. What came with the kit made a good start and then
I started adding until I eventually had a complete collection of AN3's
and a reasonable collection of AN4's so that I can always get a
satisfactory fit. A few of each size is real nice to have on hand.
Eventually you may need extras anyway for firewall forward stuff.
Oshkosh and Sun'n Fun prices are reasonable and so is Spruce for the
most part. It sure seemed like I changed the bolt length on at least
half the spec'd bolts in the airplane.
Ken
119R

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am getting ready to build and attach my Fife tail tips. A few questions:
For the rudder, the man. says to put the closeout/tip rib in with the
flanges up, face down. This will obviously interfere with the hinge bolt and
it's safety bolt. Options seem to be to cut a triangular hole for them to
protrude into the tip, or install the rib upside down? I am leaning toward
the second option, which would require using a shorter safety bolt as it
sticks up farther than the hinge bolt. Is it better to just buy new bolts
when you need a different size than what is called for, or try to find one
that belongs to some future part and replace later? I think I will need to
replace all three upper/outer safety bolts with shorter ones for this
reason. I also feel that the lower/inner hinge bolts are too short and don't
go far enough into the nutplates in the end plugs. Any thought's on this?
There is the same discrepancy on the elev. tips. The main diagram shows the
flanges facing outboard , with one of the drawings in the instructions
showing them facing inboard. I assume that everyone puts them facing inboard
for clearance on the hinge bolts, and so the counterweights can go on the
inboard side of the rib. Any tips on installing the counterweights? Again,
the bolts called for seem much too long. Any reason not to just use a few
3/16 rivets counterboared into the led to get the proper grip length?
Thanks.
Jesse

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for the tips on the tips Ken.
So did the guys that installed the tip rib with flanges outboard cut a hole
in them to clear the hinge bolts? Don't know if I'm missing something here.
Also, why did you have to make your rudder tip longer, and in what dimension
are you talking about?
Thanks.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel tail tips
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 16:17:45 -0400

Hi Jesse
Several guys have put the rib in the tips with the flanges facing
outboard and it does look a bit nicer. However I put mine facing inboard
as per the manual and didn't have any issues that I can recall. I did
have to make the Fife rudder tip about a half inch longer but I have
since learned an easy way to deal with that. I wasted hours searching
for hardware before I picked up some plastic parts trays with hinged
lids from Wally Mart. What came with the kit made a good start and then
I started adding until I eventually had a complete collection of AN3's
and a reasonable collection of AN4's so that I can always get a
satisfactory fit. A few of each size is real nice to have on hand.
Eventually you may need extras anyway for firewall forward stuff.
Oshkosh and Sun'n Fun prices are reasonable and so is Spruce for the
most part. It sure seemed like I changed the bolt length on at least
half the spec'd bolts in the airplane.
Ken
119R

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am getting ready to build and attach my Fife tail tips. A few

questions:

For the rudder, the man. says to put the closeout/tip rib in with the
flanges up, face down. This will obviously interfere with the hinge bolt

and

it's safety bolt. Options seem to be to cut a triangular hole for them to
protrude into the tip, or install the rib upside down? I am leaning

toward

the second option, which would require using a shorter safety bolt as it
sticks up farther than the hinge bolt. Is it better to just buy new bolts
when you need a different size than what is called for, or try to find

one

that belongs to some future part and replace later? I think I will need

to

replace all three upper/outer safety bolts with shorter ones for this
reason. I also feel that the lower/inner hinge bolts are too short and

don't

go far enough into the nutplates in the end plugs. Any thought's on this?
There is the same discrepancy on the elev. tips. The main diagram shows

the

flanges facing outboard , with one of the drawings in the instructions
showing them facing inboard. I assume that everyone puts them facing

inboard

for clearance on the hinge bolts, and so the counterweights can go on the
inboard side of the rib. Any tips on installing the counterweights?

Again,

the bolts called for seem much too long. Any reason not to just use a few
3/16 rivets counterboared into the led to get the proper grip length?
Thanks.
Jesse

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Jesse Jenks wrote:

Thanks for the tips on the tips Ken.
So did the guys that installed the tip rib with flanges outboard cut a hole
in them to clear the hinge bolts? Don't know if I'm missing something here.

Don't know but I'd guess that they did.

Also, why did you have to make your rudder tip longer, and in what dimension
are you talking about?
Thanks.
Jesse

It was almost a half inch too short forward and aft. I've seen one Rebel
that was the same but he just slit the trailing edge so that the
trailing edge of the tip did not wrap around the rudder. All four other
tips were a perfect fit.

Ken






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------