Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...

Click here for full update

Wildcat! photo archives restored.

Click here for full update

Donors can now disable ads.

Click here for instructions

Add yourself to the user map.

Click here for instructions

Removing Landig Gear for floats

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
Locked
Jones, Michael

Removing Landig Gear for floats

Post by Jones, Michael » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am

dont think you want to drill the carry throughs to allow removal of wish
bone as you call it, best way would be cut floor open and install doublers
and cover plate with screws, that's how i built mine and works great

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Kilbey
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 10:33 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Removing Landig Gear for floats


Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough

to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The

passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------



----------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTICE - This message is the property of HATCH. It may also be
confidential and/or privileged. If you are not the intended recipient
of this message you are hereby notified that you must not disseminate,
copy or take any action with respect to it.

If you have received this message in error please notify
HATCH immediately via mailto:MailAdmin@hatch.ca.



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Drew Dalgleish

Removing Landig Gear for floats

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am

If you haven't installed your floor yet why not go with nutplates?

At 10:32 AM 4/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------



Drew





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Ken

Removing Landig Gear for floats

Post by Ken » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am

I did access panels in the bottom outer skin.

I like the nutplate idea though. One can get creative with nutplates.
For example rivet the nutplate to a strip of aluminum with countersunk
rivets and then rivet the strip of aluminum to the carrythrough an inch
or three away where access is possible or where the rivet won't
interfere with anything. Or put a twist/bend in the strip of aluminum
and rivet it to the top or bottom of the carrythrough. I would think
that a nutplate is just as good as a regular nut in a case like this
where the bolt is in double shear and not tension.
Ken

Drew Dalgleish wrote:
If you haven't installed your floor yet why not go with nutplates?

At 10:32 AM 4/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:

Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Dale Kilbey

Removing Landig Gear for floats

Post by Dale Kilbey » Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:24 am

Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------


Locked