The Murphy Builders Site

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 22

1 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From : cherkas@shaw.ca
Subject: wing building

2 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From : jcole@rangroup.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

3 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: wing building

4 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

5 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From : bransom@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

6 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From : britt.reed@hill.af.mil
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

7 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

8 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

9 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

10 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

11 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

12 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

13 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Mounting a Radio

14 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

15 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

16 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

17 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

18 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Windshield install tips

19 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

20 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

21 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

22 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From: cherkas@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

I put my elevator on the wing and when held up and let go it freely fell
to the full down position. This took a bit of playing with the delrin
bearing bracket. There is very little room to play with. Just tweeking
it a little made a big difference in hte free movement of the elevator.

Good Luck
Murray
Rebel 505

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From: jcole@rangroup.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Brad I have had the same issue with my son who is 17! They really don't
understand 3/8 - 3/16 etc.

Cheers
Jim


brad@dcsol.com wrote:

Afternoon all,

Well I'm back at Building the Rebel after a brief break getting the house
ready to sell.

Anyone with kids might enjoy this.
My 14 year old son has been helping me in the shop. I have discovered (too
late) that he has no idea what an inch is or any part there of. Working on
a
plane with a metric challenged person (me) and an imperial challenged
person
(him)has made for some interesting conversations.

Yes there are 16 of those marks Not ten.

Enjoy,

Brad. (R195)





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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

Mike,
Use a lot of clecoes.
Before you pull the first rivet use your level to be absolutely sure the
wing is true with no twist.
Recheck the torque tube for ease.
Pull a few rivets and recheck true.
Use a 3/16" x 1/4" drive deep socket on a screwdriver type handle to
push home the recalcitrant rivets.
Dip each rivet in primer before insertion.
Rallph Baker

---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner Bruce, haven't had time to check my
mail in a couple of days. Not sure what may have been wrong, but it's
working now.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Mike,

The 912S exhaust pictures load half way then stop. Am I doing something
wrong?

Bruce




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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From: bransom@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Have you heard the one....

There was a scientific conference in the US recently where someone in the
audience asked a speaker at the end of his talk, "Why is it the US and
Britain still show practically no sign of converting to metric units?"
The
speaker replies, "Don't worry, we really are getting there, inch by inch."
:)
-Ben

---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From: britt.reed@hill.af.mil
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

My friend's 172 is with Forrest Agency and he called and asked about the
Super Rebel - Gail Macko(800 536 2011) said she has some Rebels but no
Super
Rebel/Moose - maybe they can give it a go -

http://www.forestaviationinsurance.com/

Britt - 194SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wes
&
Bobbi Jo Erb
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 10:15 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Ted--
Before I bought my Moose kit, I asked my insurance company about it and
they said when the time came, they would. That was North American
Specialty. Sure wish I had them put that in writing. As I live in AK, I
don't want to fax over an itinerary every time I go fishing. Chris Gill
(SR2500) and Ron Kakeldy (Moose) have flown up here a while, maybe they
know

of a friendly insurance company.

Wes Erb
SR208
Chugiak, AK

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Yes, It can be stressful when your find yourself in a difficult
situation
and take more chances trying to save your plane knowing it's not
covered. But
just a few thoughts about your family, wife and kids will set your
priorities
straight. After all, it's just metal and paint!

Bruce


Bobp said:

Having adequate coverage can sure relieve a lot of stress when flying in
difficult surroundings - at least you're free to make the safest
choices.
You can choose to belly into the trees and live to fly another day,
instead of trying to sneak through those low clouds - and at least
you'll
have the cash to replace the airplane ! :-)







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---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R





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---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R





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---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Probably don't need to wait that long Cecil, I just like to give it time
to
cure/bond to it's surroundings before pressing my luck! Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

with

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---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: all
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives
has
shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I
can
get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there
one. Is
one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber

---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend to
turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last few
years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving it
as
just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and get
riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength of
panel overlaps.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives

has

shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I

can

get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there

one. Is

one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber



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---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R


---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Gee Ken, I'll have to have a look up under a couple of panels.....must be
the alum dust as I can't remember how I did it..but think I took side
straps
back up to the instrument panel to firewall deck.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Just want to correct that...1/2 x 1/2 angle works...3/4 makes it too far
for
the clip nuts to reach the hole.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low,
just

a

bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower

radio

tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it

is

already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either
hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those

same

5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few
suggestions
for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,
just
throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to
3/16
as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer
down
with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy
removal
for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice
(about
3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne




---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Windshield install tips

When you have finally got your moulded windshield trimmed and fitting
correctly...take the time to take a large piece of paper and make yourself
a
pattern. Takes a bit of work tucking and taping to get a tight fit. Trim
the
pattern for an exact fit on your windshield and then fold it up lightly
and
put it somewhere safe. It will come in really handy for the day your
windshield cracks. If it's too late and your forgot, you can always pull a
pattern off the windshield when it is removed by first taping the crackes
up
tight, or pieces back in place.

Having a pattern on hand today made trimming of a new windshield, that fit
perfectly within the original retainers, less than a 20 minute job!!

Having the pattern made up ahead of time would let you get your new
windshield cut and ready before pulling the cracked one out of your
airplane
for a quick turn around.

Also the ONLY way to trim the acrylic windshield effortlessly is to use a
Dremel and a fiber cut wheel that's about 1 inch or so in diameter.
Absolutely effortless and I have never cracked a windshield (and have done
at least a dozen now). It cuts and polishes the edge pretty much at the
same
time. Once cut I run the wheel down each edge to chamfer lightly with the
wheel turning away from the windshield. Then a quick sanding with 150
grit
around the perimeter and a wet sand with 220 and it's good to install.

Cheers,
Wayne



---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

Another thought.....since I was doing a retro had to go 1/4". You could
drill and cleco at 1/8" and then tap for AN3-3A's instead of 1/4" bolts.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:18 PM
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few

suggestions

for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,

just

throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to

3/16

as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer

down

with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy

removal

for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice

(about

3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick
movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne






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---------- Digest Message #20 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Thanks for the info Wayne
Bob Scheuber
SR191



On 4/7/2005 2:01 PM, OIFA@IRISHFIELD.ON.CA wrote to REBEL-BUILDERS:

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-> for rebel-builders@dcsol.com; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:22 -0800
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EHLO=smtp.film-tech.net
-> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP v6.0.451.3) with SMTP
-> id 203942250; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:20 -0800
-> Received: from dilbert.dostech.net (barrie-dialport-
216.209.18.167.csolve.net [216.209.18.167])
-> (authenticated user dos@smtp.film-tech.net)
-> by smtp.film-tech.net (smtp.film-tech.net [66.98.221.156])
-> (Cipher TLSv1:RC4-MD5:128) (MDaemon.PRO.v6.8.5.R)
-> with ESMTP id 19-md50000000224.tmp
-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:00:14 -0500
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-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:59:27 -0400
-> Message-ID: <002d01c53bbd$4c59d2e0$e401910a@celeron266a>
-> From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> References: <1112910658@dcsol.com>
-> Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
-> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
-> Organization: O'Shea's Irish Field Aviation
-> X-Orig-MIME-Version: 1.0
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-> (not processed: spam filter disabled)
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-> X-MDaemon-Deliver-To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> X-Antivirus-Remover: Message filtered with wsAV v2.0.0 Build 001
->
-> Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
-> types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend
to
-> turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
-> from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
-> Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last
few
-> years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving
it as
-> just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and
get
-> riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
-> corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength
of
-> panel overlaps.
->
-> Wayne
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
-> Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
->
->
-> > Hi all,
-> >
-> > This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the
archives
-> has
-> > shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see
if I
-> can
-> > get a clear picture.
-> >
-> > What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the
zinc
-> > chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is
there
-> one. Is
-> > one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
-> > thanks. Bob Scheuber
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Subscription services located at:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->



---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

---------- Digest Message #22 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Hope you drilled and tapped that column retainer bearing bracket ! LOL !!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low,

just a

bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower

radio

tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it

is

already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel.
This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done
(other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either

hang

it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those

same

5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

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----------


Welcome to the Rebel Builders List.

This mailing list is intended to provide an open
discussion forum for anyone interested in Murphy
Aircraft Ltd. Rebel series of aircraft. Whether
you're building, flying, or just trying to get
some information.

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Waiting arrival off Rebel 776.Has anyone ever installed a power flow

on a 0-320 with the speed cowling.Is this system worth the extra bucks.

Regards: alvin

In my opinion....something that claims a significant HP gain and doesn't
require a coarser pitched prop is bogus. Wayne

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 22

1 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From : cherkas@shaw.ca
Subject: wing building

2 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From : jcole@rangroup.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

3 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: wing building

4 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

5 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From : bransom@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

6 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From : britt.reed@hill.af.mil
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

7 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

8 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

9 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

10 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

11 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

12 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

13 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Mounting a Radio

14 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

15 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

16 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

17 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

18 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Windshield install tips

19 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

20 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

21 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

22 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From: cherkas@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

I put my elevator on the wing and when held up and let go it freely fell
to the full down position. This took a bit of playing with the delrin
bearing bracket. There is very little room to play with. Just tweeking
it a little made a big difference in hte free movement of the elevator.

Good Luck
Murray
Rebel 505

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From: jcole@rangroup.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Brad I have had the same issue with my son who is 17! They really don't
understand 3/8 - 3/16 etc.

Cheers
Jim


brad@dcsol.com wrote:

Afternoon all,

Well I'm back at Building the Rebel after a brief break getting the house
ready to sell.

Anyone with kids might enjoy this.
My 14 year old son has been helping me in the shop. I have discovered (too
late) that he has no idea what an inch is or any part there of. Working on
a
plane with a metric challenged person (me) and an imperial challenged
person
(him)has made for some interesting conversations.

Yes there are 16 of those marks Not ten.

Enjoy,

Brad. (R195)





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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

Mike,
Use a lot of clecoes.
Before you pull the first rivet use your level to be absolutely sure the
wing is true with no twist.
Recheck the torque tube for ease.
Pull a few rivets and recheck true.
Use a 3/16" x 1/4" drive deep socket on a screwdriver type handle to
push home the recalcitrant rivets.
Dip each rivet in primer before insertion.
Rallph Baker

---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner Bruce, haven't had time to check my
mail in a couple of days. Not sure what may have been wrong, but it's
working now.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Mike,

The 912S exhaust pictures load half way then stop. Am I doing something
wrong?

Bruce




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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From: bransom@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Have you heard the one....

There was a scientific conference in the US recently where someone in the
audience asked a speaker at the end of his talk, "Why is it the US and
Britain still show practically no sign of converting to metric units?"
The
speaker replies, "Don't worry, we really are getting there, inch by inch."
:)
-Ben

---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From: britt.reed@hill.af.mil
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

My friend's 172 is with Forrest Agency and he called and asked about the
Super Rebel - Gail Macko(800 536 2011) said she has some Rebels but no
Super
Rebel/Moose - maybe they can give it a go -

http://www.forestaviationinsurance.com/

Britt - 194SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wes
&
Bobbi Jo Erb
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 10:15 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Ted--
Before I bought my Moose kit, I asked my insurance company about it and
they said when the time came, they would. That was North American
Specialty. Sure wish I had them put that in writing. As I live in AK, I
don't want to fax over an itinerary every time I go fishing. Chris Gill
(SR2500) and Ron Kakeldy (Moose) have flown up here a while, maybe they
know

of a friendly insurance company.

Wes Erb
SR208
Chugiak, AK

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Yes, It can be stressful when your find yourself in a difficult
situation
and take more chances trying to save your plane knowing it's not
covered. But
just a few thoughts about your family, wife and kids will set your
priorities
straight. After all, it's just metal and paint!

Bruce


Bobp said:

Having adequate coverage can sure relieve a lot of stress when flying in
difficult surroundings - at least you're free to make the safest
choices.
You can choose to belly into the trees and live to fly another day,
instead of trying to sneak through those low clouds - and at least
you'll
have the cash to replace the airplane ! :-)







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---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R





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---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R





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---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Probably don't need to wait that long Cecil, I just like to give it time
to
cure/bond to it's surroundings before pressing my luck! Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

with

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---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: all
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives
has
shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I
can
get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there
one. Is
one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber

---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend to
turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last few
years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving it
as
just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and get
riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength of
panel overlaps.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives

has

shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I

can

get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there

one. Is

one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber



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---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R


---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Gee Ken, I'll have to have a look up under a couple of panels.....must be
the alum dust as I can't remember how I did it..but think I took side
straps
back up to the instrument panel to firewall deck.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Just want to correct that...1/2 x 1/2 angle works...3/4 makes it too far
for
the clip nuts to reach the hole.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low,
just

a

bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower

radio

tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it

is

already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either
hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those

same

5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few
suggestions
for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,
just
throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to
3/16
as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer
down
with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy
removal
for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice
(about
3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne




---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Windshield install tips

When you have finally got your moulded windshield trimmed and fitting
correctly...take the time to take a large piece of paper and make yourself
a
pattern. Takes a bit of work tucking and taping to get a tight fit. Trim
the
pattern for an exact fit on your windshield and then fold it up lightly
and
put it somewhere safe. It will come in really handy for the day your
windshield cracks. If it's too late and your forgot, you can always pull a
pattern off the windshield when it is removed by first taping the crackes
up
tight, or pieces back in place.

Having a pattern on hand today made trimming of a new windshield, that fit
perfectly within the original retainers, less than a 20 minute job!!

Having the pattern made up ahead of time would let you get your new
windshield cut and ready before pulling the cracked one out of your
airplane
for a quick turn around.

Also the ONLY way to trim the acrylic windshield effortlessly is to use a
Dremel and a fiber cut wheel that's about 1 inch or so in diameter.
Absolutely effortless and I have never cracked a windshield (and have done
at least a dozen now). It cuts and polishes the edge pretty much at the
same
time. Once cut I run the wheel down each edge to chamfer lightly with the
wheel turning away from the windshield. Then a quick sanding with 150
grit
around the perimeter and a wet sand with 220 and it's good to install.

Cheers,
Wayne



---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

Another thought.....since I was doing a retro had to go 1/4". You could
drill and cleco at 1/8" and then tap for AN3-3A's instead of 1/4" bolts.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:18 PM
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few

suggestions

for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,

just

throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to

3/16

as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer

down

with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy

removal

for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice

(about

3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick
movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne






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---------- Digest Message #20 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Thanks for the info Wayne
Bob Scheuber
SR191



On 4/7/2005 2:01 PM, OIFA@IRISHFIELD.ON.CA wrote to REBEL-BUILDERS:

-> Received: by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP Router v6.0.451.3)
-> for rebel-builders@dcsol.com; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:22 -0800
-> Received: from smtp.film-tech.net ([66.98.221.156])
EHLO=smtp.film-tech.net
-> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP v6.0.451.3) with SMTP
-> id 203942250; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:20 -0800
-> Received: from dilbert.dostech.net (barrie-dialport-
216.209.18.167.csolve.net [216.209.18.167])
-> (authenticated user dos@smtp.film-tech.net)
-> by smtp.film-tech.net (smtp.film-tech.net [66.98.221.156])
-> (Cipher TLSv1:RC4-MD5:128) (MDaemon.PRO.v6.8.5.R)
-> with ESMTP id 19-md50000000224.tmp
-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:00:14 -0500
-> Received: from celeron266a (celeron266a.midland.dostech.net
[10.145.1.228])
-> by dilbert.dostech.net (8.12.8/8.12. with SMTP id j37LxQ4P031595
-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:59:27 -0400
-> Message-ID: <002d01c53bbd$4c59d2e0$e401910a@celeron266a>
-> From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> References: <1112910658@dcsol.com>
-> Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
-> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
-> Organization: O'Shea's Irish Field Aviation
-> X-Orig-MIME-Version: 1.0
-> X-Orig-Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
-> X-Orig-Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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-> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106
-> X-Authenticated-Sender: dos@smtp.film-tech.net
-> X-Spam-Processed: smtp.film-tech.net, Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:00:14 -0500
-> (not processed: spam filter disabled)
-> X-MDRemoteIP: 216.209.18.167
-> X-Return-Path: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> X-MDaemon-Deliver-To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> X-Antivirus-Remover: Message filtered with wsAV v2.0.0 Build 001
->
-> Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
-> types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend
to
-> turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
-> from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
-> Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last
few
-> years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving
it as
-> just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and
get
-> riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
-> corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength
of
-> panel overlaps.
->
-> Wayne
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
-> Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
->
->
-> > Hi all,
-> >
-> > This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the
archives
-> has
-> > shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see
if I
-> can
-> > get a clear picture.
-> >
-> > What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the
zinc
-> > chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is
there
-> one. Is
-> > one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
-> > thanks. Bob Scheuber
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Subscription services located at:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->



---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

---------- Digest Message #22 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Hope you drilled and tapped that column retainer bearing bracket ! LOL !!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low,

just a

bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower

radio

tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it

is

already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel.
This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done
(other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either

hang

it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those

same

5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

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----------


Welcome to the Rebel Builders List.

This mailing list is intended to provide an open
discussion forum for anyone interested in Murphy
Aircraft Ltd. Rebel series of aircraft. Whether
you're building, flying, or just trying to get
some information.

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mike.davis@dcsol.com

Thanks so much guys for the information.If I changed my cowl to the older
almimium type would there be any more room for the system.Would it be a
minor job or major job to modify aluminum cowling.A friend of mine had the
system installed on his 0-320 160 hp in a 172 on floats.He says better
performance & quite noticable change in fuel burn.I would really like to be
able to install system

Again Thanks
Alvin
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: DIGEST - rebel-builders-d

Digest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 22

1 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From : cherkas@shaw.ca
Subject: wing building

2 Date : Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From : jcole@rangroup.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

3 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From : rebaker@sc.rr.com
Subject: wing building

4 Date : Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From : mike.davis@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

5 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From : bransom@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Measurements

6 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From : britt.reed@hill.af.mil
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

7 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

8 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

9 Date : Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From : britishthunder@sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

10 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: pro seal?

11 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

12 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

13 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Mounting a Radio

14 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

15 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

16 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

17 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

18 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Windshield install tips

19 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

20 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From : bscheube@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

21 Date : Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From : klehman@albedo.net
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

22 Date : Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio


---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 18:10:51 -0600
From: cherkas@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

I put my elevator on the wing and when held up and let go it freely fell
to the full down position. This took a bit of playing with the delrin
bearing bracket. There is very little room to play with. Just tweeking
it a little made a big difference in hte free movement of the elevator.

Good Luck
Murray
Rebel 505

---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2005 21:18:18 -0400
From: jcole@rangroup.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Brad I have had the same issue with my son who is 17! They really don't
understand 3/8 - 3/16 etc.

Cheers
Jim


brad@dcsol.com wrote:

Afternoon all,

Well I'm back at Building the Rebel after a brief break getting the house
ready to sell.

Anyone with kids might enjoy this.
My 14 year old son has been helping me in the shop. I have discovered (too
late) that he has no idea what an inch is or any part there of. Working on
a
plane with a metric challenged person (me) and an imperial challenged
person
(him)has made for some interesting conversations.

Yes there are 16 of those marks Not ten.

Enjoy,

Brad. (R195)





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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 21:56:38 -0400
From: rebaker@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: wing building

Mike,
Use a lot of clecoes.
Before you pull the first rivet use your level to be absolutely sure the
wing is true with no twist.
Recheck the torque tube for ease.
Pull a few rivets and recheck true.
Use a 3/16" x 1/4" drive deep socket on a screwdriver type handle to
push home the recalcitrant rivets.
Dip each rivet in primer before insertion.
Rallph Baker

---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 20:35:16 -0800
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner Bruce, haven't had time to check my
mail in a couple of days. Not sure what may have been wrong, but it's
working now.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Rotax 912s exhaust system

Mike,

The 912S exhaust pictures load half way then stop. Am I doing something
wrong?

Bruce




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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 07:23:51 -0800
From: bransom@dcsol.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Measurements

Have you heard the one....

There was a scientific conference in the US recently where someone in the
audience asked a speaker at the end of his talk, "Why is it the US and
Britain still show practically no sign of converting to metric units?"
The
speaker replies, "Don't worry, we really are getting there, inch by inch."
:)
-Ben

---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 10:50:51 -0600
From: britt.reed@hill.af.mil
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: Moose Insurance

My friend's 172 is with Forrest Agency and he called and asked about the
Super Rebel - Gail Macko(800 536 2011) said she has some Rebels but no
Super
Rebel/Moose - maybe they can give it a go -

http://www.forestaviationinsurance.com/

Britt - 194SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wes
&
Bobbi Jo Erb
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 10:15 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Ted--
Before I bought my Moose kit, I asked my insurance company about it and
they said when the time came, they would. That was North American
Specialty. Sure wish I had them put that in writing. As I live in AK, I
don't want to fax over an itinerary every time I go fishing. Chris Gill
(SR2500) and Ron Kakeldy (Moose) have flown up here a while, maybe they
know

of a friendly insurance company.

Wes Erb
SR208
Chugiak, AK

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: Moose Insurance

Yes, It can be stressful when your find yourself in a difficult
situation
and take more chances trying to save your plane knowing it's not
covered. But
just a few thoughts about your family, wife and kids will set your
priorities
straight. After all, it's just metal and paint!

Bruce


Bobp said:

Having adequate coverage can sure relieve a lot of stress when flying in
difficult surroundings - at least you're free to make the safest
choices.
You can choose to belly into the trees and live to fly another day,
instead of trying to sneak through those low clouds - and at least
you'll
have the cash to replace the airplane ! :-)







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---------- Digest Message #7 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:20:12 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R



---------- Digest Message #8 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:26:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

quick question.
how long do you have to wait for pro seal to dry befor wet testing with
fuel?
thanks
Cecil
014R





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---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 05:31:27 -0500
From: britishthunder@sympatico.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

I always wait at least a week after it tacks up. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?



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---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:37:42 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Probably don't need to wait that long Cecil, I just like to give it time
to
cure/bond to it's surroundings before pressing my luck! Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

Thaks Wayne it was just a small patch wanted to test before I closed the
wing in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: pro seal?

with

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---------- Digest Message #11 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:50:58 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: all
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives
has
shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I
can
get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there
one. Is
one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber

---------- Digest Message #12 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend to
turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last few
years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving it
as
just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and get
riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength of
panel overlaps.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Hi all,

This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the archives

has

shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see if I

can

get a clear picture.

What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the zinc
chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is there

one. Is

one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks. Bob Scheuber



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---------- Digest Message #13 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 18:09:37 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R


---------- Digest Message #14 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:16:13 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Gee Ken, I'll have to have a look up under a couple of panels.....must be
the alum dust as I can't remember how I did it..but think I took side
straps
back up to the instrument panel to firewall deck.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #15 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:59:52 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio

Gentlemen

The easiest way to mount the rear of a radio tray would be a bracket on
each side riveted to the firewall. I am wondering if that is a bad idea
though as any movement of the firewall relative to the instrument panel
would stress the radio tray and maybe the expensive radio??

Other thoughts are that perhaps a little shelf back there for the radio
tray to just sit on (but not be bolted to) would be better.

Or bolts that go into a rubber mounted nut plate or vibration isolator
of some kind to allow a bit of movement.

Any thoughts??

Ken
119R




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---------- Digest Message #16 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:06:36 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Just want to correct that...1/2 x 1/2 angle works...3/4 makes it too far
for
the clip nuts to reach the hole.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low,
just

a

bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower

radio

tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it

is

already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either
hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those

same

5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:09 PM
Subject: Mounting a Radio




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---------- Digest Message #17 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:18:23 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few
suggestions
for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,
just
throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to
3/16
as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer
down
with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy
removal
for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice
(about
3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne




---------- Digest Message #18 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:27:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Windshield install tips

When you have finally got your moulded windshield trimmed and fitting
correctly...take the time to take a large piece of paper and make yourself
a
pattern. Takes a bit of work tucking and taping to get a tight fit. Trim
the
pattern for an exact fit on your windshield and then fold it up lightly
and
put it somewhere safe. It will come in really handy for the day your
windshield cracks. If it's too late and your forgot, you can always pull a
pattern off the windshield when it is removed by first taping the crackes
up
tight, or pieces back in place.

Having a pattern on hand today made trimming of a new windshield, that fit
perfectly within the original retainers, less than a 20 minute job!!

Having the pattern made up ahead of time would let you get your new
windshield cut and ready before pulling the cracked one out of your
airplane
for a quick turn around.

Also the ONLY way to trim the acrylic windshield effortlessly is to use a
Dremel and a fiber cut wheel that's about 1 inch or so in diameter.
Absolutely effortless and I have never cracked a windshield (and have done
at least a dozen now). It cuts and polishes the edge pretty much at the
same
time. Once cut I run the wheel down each edge to chamfer lightly with the
wheel turning away from the windshield. Then a quick sanding with 150
grit
around the perimeter and a wet sand with 220 and it's good to install.

Cheers,
Wayne



---------- Digest Message #19 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:28:30 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

Another thought.....since I was doing a retro had to go 1/4". You could
drill and cleco at 1/8" and then tap for AN3-3A's instead of 1/4" bolts.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:18 PM
Subject: Control column install - Rebel/Elite

While I am down to the short strokes on Howard's rebuild (minor cowl
repairs, paint and engine install) thought I would re-live a few

suggestions

for guys that haven't read these before, before spring is really here and
I'm too busy to bother. Not claiming to be the first to think of these,

just

throwing them out for your benefit.

When mounting the control column to the carrythru's, drill and cleco to

3/16

as per the manual. Then remove the assembly, drill the right hand bracket
holes out to 1/4". Drill the carrythru holes to 7/64 and then tap them
1/4-24. Then when you install the column, rivet the left hand retainer

down

with the appropriate RV1619's and bolt the right side in with AN4-3A or
AN4H-3A (allows safety wire if you're worried). This allows for easy

removal

for those days when you need to lay on your back under the panel. Up and
over the column is absolutely not fun what so ever!

When installing the short push pull tube, from the left stick to the
bellcrank, be sure to use a jam nut on both rod ends. Not a singular one
like MAM shows. Then on the bellcrank ends rod end use a small slice

(about

3/16") of 1/4ID x 5/16OD stainless brake line or similar..both above and
below the rod end. This will allow the rod end to swivel further, before
bottoming against the penny washer/bellcrank and allow full stick
movement
once you have set your up/down stops on the control column.

Cheers,
Wayne






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---------- Digest Message #20 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 15:37:20 -0800
From: bscheube@dcsol.com
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate

Thanks for the info Wayne
Bob Scheuber
SR191



On 4/7/2005 2:01 PM, OIFA@IRISHFIELD.ON.CA wrote to REBEL-BUILDERS:

-> Received: by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP Router v6.0.451.3)
-> for rebel-builders@dcsol.com; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:22 -0800
-> Received: from smtp.film-tech.net ([66.98.221.156])
EHLO=smtp.film-tech.net
-> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP v6.0.451.3) with SMTP
-> id 203942250; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 14:00:20 -0800
-> Received: from dilbert.dostech.net (barrie-dialport-
216.209.18.167.csolve.net [216.209.18.167])
-> (authenticated user dos@smtp.film-tech.net)
-> by smtp.film-tech.net (smtp.film-tech.net [66.98.221.156])
-> (Cipher TLSv1:RC4-MD5:128) (MDaemon.PRO.v6.8.5.R)
-> with ESMTP id 19-md50000000224.tmp
-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:00:14 -0500
-> Received: from celeron266a (celeron266a.midland.dostech.net
[10.145.1.228])
-> by dilbert.dostech.net (8.12.8/8.12. with SMTP id j37LxQ4P031595
-> for <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>; Thu, 7 Apr 2005 17:59:27 -0400
-> Message-ID: <002d01c53bbd$4c59d2e0$e401910a@celeron266a>
-> From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> References: <1112910658@dcsol.com>
-> Subject: Re: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
-> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 18:01:05 -0400
-> Organization: O'Shea's Irish Field Aviation
-> X-Orig-MIME-Version: 1.0
-> X-Orig-Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
-> X-Orig-Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
-> X-Priority: 3
-> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
-> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106
-> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106
-> X-Authenticated-Sender: dos@smtp.film-tech.net
-> X-Spam-Processed: smtp.film-tech.net, Thu, 07 Apr 2005 17:00:14 -0500
-> (not processed: spam filter disabled)
-> X-MDRemoteIP: 216.209.18.167
-> X-Return-Path: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
-> X-MDaemon-Deliver-To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> X-Antivirus-Remover: Message filtered with wsAV v2.0.0 Build 001
->
-> Bob, both will kill you over time without proper ventilation...but the
zinc
-> types (like you will find in old Cessna's the where seaplane mods) tend
to
-> turn to flakes/powder over time and then you get to breath it in! Stay
away
-> from Zinc...try to find some Epoxy Chromate primer as was the old
-> Stits/polyfiber EP420/430...but it has been reformulated in the last
few
-> years and the chromate appears to have been removed as well...leaving
it as
-> just Epoxy primer. Anything that you can get between the seams WET and
get
-> riveted down while it is still wet..will greatly reduce any chances of
-> corrosion in the seams and also helps considerably with shear strength
of
-> panel overlaps.
->
-> Wayne
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <bscheube@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:50 PM
-> Subject: epoxy primer/zinc chromate
->
->
-> > Hi all,
-> >
-> > This is a question that has been asked alot (as my search of the
archives
-> has
-> > shown me also seems to have confused me) So I am asking again to see
if I
-> can
-> > get a clear picture.
-> >
-> > What is the criteria for using the epoxy primer as opposed to the
zinc
-> > chromate to prime the mating surfaces, rivets, nutplates etc. is
there
-> one. Is
-> > one better than the other. any suggestions would be helpful.
-> > thanks. Bob Scheuber
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Subscription services located at:
-> > https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->



---------- Digest Message #21 ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 19:44:33 -0400
From: klehman@albedo.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken, depends whether you are starting your stack high or low. If low, just
a
bracket on each side from the 5/8 x 5/8 panel brace tube to the lower
radio
tray. Then you can add more radios/transponders on top of this one as it
is
already supported. When doing the front mounting area, be sure to use a
couple of angles (3/4 x 3/4 works) from top to bottom of your panel. This
way you can add radios and transponders as needed by simply drilling a
couple mounting holes, clipping on a few clip nuts and you're done (other
than wiring of course!). If mounting the radio high up you can either hang
it from the top panel or brace it with some .063 or similar from those
same
5/8 x 5/8 tubes. Harder to add onto though.

Wayne

---------- Digest Message #22 ----------
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 19:46:43 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Hope you drilled and tapped that column retainer bearing bracket ! LOL !!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting a Radio

Thanks Wayne

I have the vertical angles on the panel already. I haven't purchased the
radio but I wanted to get all the mounting brackets in for an icomm
A-200 before I close the top of the panel. It's not going to be fun
working upside down under there! The radio is going in the bottom of the
panel. My square panel brace tube is not in the ideal position (moved
back firewall ;) ) but if radio trays can sit on top of each other then
I think it will do the job. I will see if I can add a triangular brace
from the top of the instrument panel to the outboard rear radio corner
as well.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

just a

radio

is

hang

same

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Yup!
However I did recently talk to a gentleman that added a powerflow
exhaust to an 0-320 and he did have to repitch the prop and he is
convinced he has at least as much oomph as a 180 hp 0-360 upgrade.
Additional comments were that all of a sudden all the EGT's matched and
it was smoother. I thought he said it was the same part as used on an
0-360 but could be wrong about that.

Alvin - there are lots of comments in the archives saying that the
"speed" cowl looks fast but isn't actually any faster!

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

In my opinion....something that claims a significant HP gain and doesn't
require a coarser pitched prop is bogus. Wayne

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