The Murphy Builders Site

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little concerned
about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back to
the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get the
tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out the
leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from the
main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later with
my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure testing,
then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro - O-well
cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Is anyone else at this stage on a 3500 kit built wing?? Seems it isn't
spelled out too well due to most either being a retrofit of a 2500 wing or
fast build.

No response from MAM on how they are doing it at the factory??

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Reed
Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 4:25 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little concerned
about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back to
the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get the
tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out the
leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from the
main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later with
my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure testing,
then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro - O-well
cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry Scott, I'm one of the ones that gets to compromise a perfectly good
pressure tested set of tanks to do those .063 spar backer skins....if I ever
find time to get back on the Moose.

If you don't think you can hit it in one shot...the holes that you can't
rivet without the upper doubler in place put a cleco in EVERY hole until the
PRC sets up so nothing shifts. Then pull all the clecos, clean any teats off
around the holes (BY HAND NO SOLVENTS!) and then coat that doubler and rivet
it down being sure to roll every rivet in proseal so it bonds in with the
stuff that has set.

If you have someone helping you and only doing a tank at a time I would
think you can get it all down in one shot. Rob Helt and myself did BOTH of
his SR top tank skins at the same time in only a few hours without any
problems. If you only tackled one at a time it would be very similar.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Aldrich" <sa@mwutah.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Is anyone else at this stage on a 3500 kit built wing?? Seems it isn't
spelled out too well due to most either being a retrofit of a 2500 wing or
fast build.

No response from MAM on how they are doing it at the factory??

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Reed
Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 4:25 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little

concerned

about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back

to

the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get

the

tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank

skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out the
leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from

the

main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later

with

my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure

testing,

then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro -

O-well

cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Wayne - Thanks for the response - I have kind of asked before and it seems
like it is under everyone else's radar -

On your project with Rob Helt did you do the leading edge at the same time??

Thanks again --

I Searched the archives for references to the ".063 spar backer skins" with
no success - what are you talking about?

Britt SR194

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:55 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Sorry Scott, I'm one of the ones that gets to compromise a perfectly good
pressure tested set of tanks to do those .063 spar backer skins....if I ever
find time to get back on the Moose.

If you don't think you can hit it in one shot...the holes that you can't
rivet without the upper doubler in place put a cleco in EVERY hole until the
PRC sets up so nothing shifts. Then pull all the clecos, clean any teats off
around the holes (BY HAND NO SOLVENTS!) and then coat that doubler and rivet
it down being sure to roll every rivet in proseal so it bonds in with the
stuff that has set.

If you have someone helping you and only doing a tank at a time I would
think you can get it all down in one shot. Rob Helt and myself did BOTH of
his SR top tank skins at the same time in only a few hours without any
problems. If you only tackled one at a time it would be very similar.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Aldrich" <sa@mwutah.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Is anyone else at this stage on a 3500 kit built wing?? Seems it isn't
spelled out too well due to most either being a retrofit of a 2500 wing or
fast build.

No response from MAM on how they are doing it at the factory??

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Reed
Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 4:25 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little

concerned

about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back

to

the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get

the

tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank

skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out the
leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from

the

main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later

with

my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure

testing,

then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro -

O-well

cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Britt, I believe he is referring to what you called the gusset, which is
part W-711 double. (I think)

Scott


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Reed
Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 7:41 AM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Wayne - Thanks for the response - I have kind of asked before and it seems
like it is under everyone else's radar -

On your project with Rob Helt did you do the leading edge at the same time??

Thanks again --

I Searched the archives for references to the ".063 spar backer skins" with
no success - what are you talking about?

Britt SR194

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:55 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Sorry Scott, I'm one of the ones that gets to compromise a perfectly good
pressure tested set of tanks to do those .063 spar backer skins....if I ever
find time to get back on the Moose.

If you don't think you can hit it in one shot...the holes that you can't
rivet without the upper doubler in place put a cleco in EVERY hole until the
PRC sets up so nothing shifts. Then pull all the clecos, clean any teats off
around the holes (BY HAND NO SOLVENTS!) and then coat that doubler and rivet
it down being sure to roll every rivet in proseal so it bonds in with the
stuff that has set.

If you have someone helping you and only doing a tank at a time I would
think you can get it all down in one shot. Rob Helt and myself did BOTH of
his SR top tank skins at the same time in only a few hours without any
problems. If you only tackled one at a time it would be very similar.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Aldrich" <sa@mwutah.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Is anyone else at this stage on a 3500 kit built wing?? Seems it isn't
spelled out too well due to most either being a retrofit of a 2500 wing or
fast build.

No response from MAM on how they are doing it at the factory??

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Reed
Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 4:25 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little

concerned

about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back

to

the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get

the

tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank

skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out the
leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from

the

main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later

with

my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure

testing,

then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro -

O-well

cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

You call it a gusset, I call it a spar backer plate...no different than all
the ones for the stab and vertical rear fin post!

Britt, I don't think there is anyone on here that has done the 3500 wings
from scratch! (that weren't 2500's to start out)

Yes leading edge down and sealed all at the same time...only way I see that
makes sense to do it......well I guess you could do the cleco in every hole
trick there as well!

Will send you a pic direct of the 2500 tanks done,

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Reed Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE" <Britt.REED@HILL.af.mil>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Wayne - Thanks for the response - I have kind of asked before and it seems
like it is under everyone else's radar -

On your project with Rob Helt did you do the leading edge at the same

time??

Thanks again --

I Searched the archives for references to the ".063 spar backer skins"

with

no success - what are you talking about?

Britt SR194

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Wayne

G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:55 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Sorry Scott, I'm one of the ones that gets to compromise a perfectly good
pressure tested set of tanks to do those .063 spar backer skins....if I

ever

find time to get back on the Moose.

If you don't think you can hit it in one shot...the holes that you can't
rivet without the upper doubler in place put a cleco in EVERY hole until

the

PRC sets up so nothing shifts. Then pull all the clecos, clean any teats

off

around the holes (BY HAND NO SOLVENTS!) and then coat that doubler and

rivet

it down being sure to roll every rivet in proseal so it bonds in with the
stuff that has set.

If you have someone helping you and only doing a tank at a time I would
think you can get it all down in one shot. Rob Helt and myself did BOTH of
his SR top tank skins at the same time in only a few hours without any
problems. If you only tackled one at a time it would be very similar.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Aldrich" <sa@mwutah.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

Is anyone else at this stage on a 3500 kit built wing?? Seems it isn't
spelled out too well due to most either being a retrofit of a 2500 wing

or

fast build.

No response from MAM on how they are doing it at the factory??

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Reed

Britt Civ OO-ALC/MADE
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 4:25 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: 3500 Upper Wing Tankskin

I am about to skin the upper tank on my first wing and am a little

concerned

about the sequence - Since it has the 3500 gusset on top that comes back

to

the 1st stringer behind the main spar it seems like a tall order to get

the

tank closed in one session including the leading edge, gusset and tank

skin

Alternative #1 - Setting all rivets except from fwd stringer forward and
clecoing everything forward till the proseal sets up. Then finish out

the

leading edge -

Alternative #2 - set the leading edge including the gusset - except from

the

main spar fwd about five rivets so I can slip the tank skin under later

with

my proseal bead and then include all of the tank rivets at once.

Leaning towards #2

Seems like the manual figures on setting the tank skin and pressure

testing,

then drill out the rivets and set the leading edge/gusset.

I can't believe that the upper skin stringer dams will come out pro -

O-well

cross my fingers and plunge forward.



Britt - SR194



-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login?mode=HTML
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------