Mike:
The requirement is to leave a good clearance hole for the torque tube. 2
1/2" is maybe a little on the large side, but you certainly don't want any
possibility of contact. The spar extension eventually supports the wing
tip. The aileron spade starts at the end of the spar extension. Take a
look at the tip instructions and all will make sense - until you come to
build the tip, that is!
The further you get in to the project, the less accurate the instructions
become, until towards the end you hardly refer to them. I'm trying to
remember the things to note on the wing. For example:
1) it says to leave 1/2" projecting on the tank skins. Make it at least
5/8", as you'll probably want to use Tinnerman nuts instead of just self
tapping screws into the skin for the wing root fairings.
2) make some provision for running the wiring and pitot tube out through the
wing. I took mine to the top of the strut, then down that way, but If I'd
been thinking ahead more, I'd probably have run a duct ahead of the spar
somewhere. The "D" ahead of thr font spar is attractive, but once you put
the front wing attach fitting in place, there's not much room
3) Use countersunk rivets all around the tip rib. I don't know if the
instructions say that, but it's necessary when you fit the tip.
4) If you plan on riveting the tip in place, you're going to need some kind
of access cover for the strobe power supply
5) Use Wayne's plate nuts for the aileron hinge attachments. Then you can
do away with all these inspection plates
6) Install Tinnerman nuts for the inspection plates at the strut attachment
7) Cut the vertical webs off the inboard end of the lower stringers to stop
a dam of water forming behind each stringer.
When you put the top skin on the tank, use the scrap from the wing and
cut rectangular holes in it. Wax the inside of the scrap skin, then Proseal
the scrap skin in place. Work through the cutouts you made to form a nice
bead of Proseal at all joints. When it's good an dry (several days), remove
the scrap skin, look for any pinholes on the inside (I brushed on thin
Proseal over the thick stuff), then scuff up the Proseal and Proseal the
tank skin in place
9) If you have the long range tanks, you might want to install the gas caps
one bay inboard from the end - easier to get at on floats.
10) I didn't like the idea of bashing these root ribs flat to take the sight
glass fittings, and installed capacitive probes instead (pic on Elite
section of Wildcat)
11) Install doublers around the aileron horn cutout
12) Make sure you install the stringers on the INSIDE of the skins (guess
how I found out that one!)
13) I installed a flange on the root rib, sticking inboard and flush with
the end of the tank skin to take the wing root fairing (Tinnerman nuts)
14) Don't start to Proseal the tanks at 9 o'clock at night! Do them in more
stages than the instructions indicate. Send the wife and family away for
the evening.
15) I tested my tanks with windshield washer fluid. Loose gas in the
basement did not seem like a good plan.
16) The standard tips required significant surgery to make them fit (see
archives)
17) If you can figure out what the long tank rivets in the kit are for
(maybe they're not there anymore), let me know.
18) I found one of these rough round hacksaw blades that they sell for
cutting tile good for making the J shaped cutouts in the rib plates where
the sringers pass through the tank ends.
Other than that, the instructions weren't bad!
Regards, Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <
mbetti@up.net>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Wing building
Thanks,
The rear spar extension is made up of W604 and W620.
I'm going to leave them clecoed for now.
Mike Betti
771Elite
----- Original Message -----
From: <
bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: Wing building
I just started building wings and have a couple questions.
1) The manual says drill a 2 1/2" hole in the 2 solid ribs for the
control tube. The tube is only 2" and with the sleeve added I still
don't see the need for that big of a hole. Shoud I drill to this size
or
have others done it different?
Consider the 2.5" hole already reduced ...MAM changed the size from 3"
in
1994MAM down to 2.5" in 1999 MAM. It's just a clearance hole, so
probably
anything between 2 3/8 - 3" is fine.
2) I clecoed on the rear spar extension which is made up of 2 bent
pieces of aluminum. I don't see the part yet where it should be
riveted
permanetly. What is the purpose of these pieces out on the tip end of
the wing anyhow?
You are referring to the short pieces of ST-40 (cut from stock)? I
think
you'll see a little note in MAM that these are for attaching the wing
tips
and are needed on the right wing only due to flange direction of the
ribs.
3) I had a 3rd question but I can't remember what it was, ( the
acetone
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at:
https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe:
rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator:
mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------