The Murphy Builders Site

I was looking over Tony Bingelis' drawing of aircraft main power wiring for an all metal plane with remote mounted battery and his drawing implies that the battery negative should go all the way back to the engine. I was planning on just a short jump to the airframe at the battery negative. Is another very large wire from the battery all the way to the engine necessary for grounding?

Mike




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Mike,
I read the same article but didn't want the weight of another cable. I
didn't like bonding to the skin so the battery cable is bonded to the floor
stringer then the stringers are bonded together so there is a continuous
path to the firewall. Plenty of starting power.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 7:20 PM
Subject: Battery Cable question

I was looking over Tony Bingelis' drawing of aircraft main power wiring for
an all metal plane with remote mounted battery and his drawing implies that
the battery negative should go all the way back to the engine. I was
planning on just a short jump to the airframe at the battery negative. Is
another very large wire from the battery all the way to the engine
necessary for grounding?

Mike




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Mike, my battery is also in the tail with a short jump to a bulkhead for the
negative. Then of course the engine is bonded to the main fire wall
grounding block. All my other grounds up front go to this same fire wall
grounding block. My battery doesn't run a starter on the M14 though. The
purest on the Aero electric list would run welding cable all the way up but
I think that is a waste in metal airplane. Bob (Aero electric Bob) agrees
it is okay to ground remote items like position light, etc. to local
airframe for ground. Even then some of the guys are running ground wires
back to the single point ground on the fire wall for everything. A little
overkill in my opinion.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Kim
Kimball
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 8:20 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Battery Cable question

I was looking over Tony Bingelis' drawing of aircraft main power wiring
for an all metal plane with remote mounted battery and his drawing implies
that the battery negative should go all the way back to the engine. I was
planning on just a short jump to the airframe at the battery negative. Is
another very large wire from the battery all the way to the engine
necessary for grounding?

Mike




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My knowledge of electronics and such won't quite fill a thimble, so
naturally I have a question.

If Epoxy Zinc Chromate is used religiously between all metal mating
surfaces and all rivets are dipped wouldn't this break the continuity of
ground? Or is the stuff conductive? Is Proseal conductive?

Thanks,

John...


At 08:50 AM 02/18/05, you wrote:

Mike, my battery is also in the tail with a short jump to a bulkhead for the
negative. Then of course the engine is bonded to the main fire wall
grounding block. All my other grounds up front go to this same fire wall
grounding block. My battery doesn't run a starter on the M14 though. The
purest on the Aero electric list would run welding cable all the way up but
I think that is a waste in metal airplane. Bob (Aero electric Bob) agrees
it is okay to ground remote items like position light, etc. to local
airframe for ground. Even then some of the guys are running ground wires
back to the single point ground on the fire wall for everything. A little
overkill in my opinion.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Kim
Kimball
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 8:20 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Battery Cable question

I was looking over Tony Bingelis' drawing of aircraft main power wiring
for an all metal plane with remote mounted battery and his drawing implies
that the battery negative should go all the way back to the engine. I was
planning on just a short jump to the airframe at the battery negative. Is
another very large wire from the battery all the way to the engine
necessary for grounding?

Mike




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-----------------------------------------
OK!
So whose smart ideA was it to put the
CAPSLOCK kEy rIGHT nExT TO tHE sHiFt kEy





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You make a very good point John...if we were actually doing a good job of
chromating then every panel would be insulated from the next. However...I
can tell you that every flange/skin on my machine went together wet, every
rivet went in dipped and I just moved my battery to the tailcone and put a
short cable for ground to the nearest bulkhead and my lyco spins when I hit
the key!

On Howard's I ran a separate ground cable all the way up to the engine using
this cables weight to help C of G...but in reverse of the theory his
airplane has more electrical noise than mine has.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kramer" <369R@kramers.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: Battery Cable question

My knowledge of electronics and such won't quite fill a thimble, so
naturally I have a question.

If Epoxy Zinc Chromate is used religiously between all metal mating
surfaces and all rivets are dipped wouldn't this break the continuity of
ground? Or is the stuff conductive? Is Proseal conductive?

Thanks,

John...


At 08:50 AM 02/18/05, you wrote:

Mike, my battery is also in the tail with a short jump to a bulkhead for

the

negative. Then of course the engine is bonded to the main fire wall
grounding block. All my other grounds up front go to this same fire wall
grounding block. My battery doesn't run a starter on the M14 though.

The

purest on the Aero electric list would run welding cable all the way up

but

I think that is a waste in metal airplane. Bob (Aero electric Bob)

agrees

it is okay to ground remote items like position light, etc. to local
airframe for ground. Even then some of the guys are running ground wires
back to the single point ground on the fire wall for everything. A

little

overkill in my opinion.

Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Kim

Kimball
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 8:20 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Battery Cable question

I was looking over Tony Bingelis' drawing of aircraft main power

wiring

for an all metal plane with remote mounted battery and his drawing

implies

that the battery negative should go all the way back to the engine. I

was

planning on just a short jump to the airframe at the battery negative.

Is

another very large wire from the battery all the way to the engine
necessary for grounding?

Mike




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-----------------------------------------
OK!
So whose smart ideA was it to put the
CAPSLOCK kEy rIGHT nExT TO tHE sHiFt kEy





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John,

If Epoxy Zinc Chromate is used religiously between all metal mating
surfaces and all rivets are dipped wouldn't this break the continuity of
ground?

I have even less knowledge of electrics than you, but had the same question.
I had chromated all the mating surfaces and dipped each rivet also, and I
wanted to run local grounds for the Aeroflash strobe power supplies mounted
on the wing tip ribs.

Using a multi-meter, I made several checks for continuity between the main
spar and the tip rib and I always got a tone, indicating (to me) a complete
circuit. The wiring is not completed so I can't tell you if it will (or
won't) work yet.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!



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Hello

Conductivity will may be a problem if you assmble dry! When we assemble
wet, there is a big part of the assmbly, at least arond the rivets (bigest
pressure) where there is no primer at all!
The idea of wet assembly, in my mind, is just to fill the "non-contact"
area between the parts and than make them "seal".

Different opinion will be ok and I will be interested to hear them!
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: Battery Cable question

John,

If Epoxy Zinc Chromate is used religiously between all metal mating
surfaces and all rivets are dipped wouldn't this break the continuity of
ground?

I have even less knowledge of electrics than you, but had the same
question.
I had chromated all the mating surfaces and dipped each rivet also, and I
wanted to run local grounds for the Aeroflash strobe power supplies
mounted
on the wing tip ribs.

Using a multi-meter, I made several checks for continuity between the main
spar and the tip rib and I always got a tone, indicating (to me) a
complete
circuit. The wiring is not completed so I can't tell you if it will (or
won't) work yet.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!



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