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Plastic removal and Proseal requirements

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:12 am
by Wayne G. O'Shea
Mike for sheets and larger parts...roll up the plastic edge in a straight
line across the part until you can get it wrapped around a wood dowl/plastic
pipe etc part of a turn. Then press down and roll at the same time. Makes it
come off pretty slick without sheet damage. Pulling on tough stuck plastic
has a nasty habit of buckling the sheet if you pull too hard or your hands
slip. If need be on a formed part carefully slit the plastic along the parts
bend and remove in two pieces.

Everyone's mileage varies on the Proseal issue. I did both wings on an SR
with 4 bay tanks with a single quart of Proseal (and have the other 3 cans
still in the fridge to prove it...as well as the pics of the pressure
check!). 2 quarts should be more than plenty for Elite tanks. Wait until you
are ready to rivet to secure the Proseal.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: Materials?

Hi all,
I few questions on my Elite project.
I may be looking too far ahead but I was wondering about painting. Is it
normal to assemble the airplane in the raw to the point of the firewall
and then disassemble for painting and reassemble again. Then start the
firewall forward?
Or would one put a prime coat on everything prior to the original
assembly?

How much proseal do I need to purchase for this project?

I ran into a problem with trying to get the plastic protection wrap off
of the flap skins. I spent over an hour on just one with a heat gun and
sore fingers to get one of them off. Any secrets out there? I also have
a couple ribs where it just won't come off, just like a sticker on it,
comes off only by scraping with your finger nail in tiny pieces, I will
need to chemically remove them. The other flap looks just as bad and I
am afraid I will damage it fighting this stuff off. The other pieces so
far have been ok.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Plastic removal and Proseal requirements

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:12 am
by bransom
Mike
For removing aged or brittled protective plastic, the chemical is "Goof Off"
and it works only by soaking -- say 24 hours. For small pieces (ribs) I put
them in a disposable aluminum turkey roasting pan, wrap the heavy aluminum
foil lid on the container and let it sit till next day. You don't even need
to cover the parts iwth goof-off; the fumes are pretty effective. For larger
pieces (I needed to do my tank skins around the edges anyway), I painted goof
off on and covered them with plain ol aluminum foil to slow evaporation.
Good luck with it ...you'll be surprised how well it works and a lot of
frustration will be avoided. BTW, heat gun didn't help when I tried that
method. Oh, also, goof-off available in HW stores, including by the gallon
at Home Despot. ;)
-Ben/ 496R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:59 PM
Subject: Materials?

Hi all,
I few questions on my Elite project.
I may be looking too far ahead but I was wondering about painting. Is it
normal to assemble the airplane in the raw to the point of the firewall
and then disassemble for painting and reassemble again. Then start the
firewall forward?
Or would one put a prime coat on everything prior to the original
assembly?

How much proseal do I need to purchase for this project?

I ran into a problem with trying to get the plastic protection wrap off
of the flap skins. I spent over an hour on just one with a heat gun and
sore fingers to get one of them off. Any secrets out there? I also have
a couple ribs where it just won't come off, just like a sticker on it,
comes off only by scraping with your finger nail in tiny pieces, I will
need to chemically remove them. The other flap looks just as bad and I
am afraid I will damage it fighting this stuff off. The other pieces so
far have been ok.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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