The Murphy Builders Site

Nigel:

ACS has swaged ends on p 135 of their catalogue (MS20668, for example), but
they take a 3/16" pin. I found some confusion in the instructions and parts
on this. The eyebolts and shackles were 3/16", but the stainless steel
tangs had 1/4" holes. I wound up making new tangs. I also stuck some
turnbuckles at the rudder pedals to provide some pedal adjustment.

These swaged ends are nice, and Leavens here in Canada will do them (not
that that's much good to you), but they're only good for one end on the
Elite, as the second one has to go on after cable installation.

Regards, Al





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Hi Al

I too added some more turnbuckles for the rudders, and got 3/16 clevis ends
to attach to the eye bolt on the rudder pedal, through a standard 1/4
barrel, into a swaged stud end on the cable. This way I've done away with
the tangs altogether.

My plan is to mount the cable guides RG-1's with skin pins, run the cables
through and set up as precisely as I can, and then assuming I can find a
suitable swaged eye end for the rear, cut cable exactly to length, then
remove entire cable length with RG-1's on it, run it up to the swaging
tooling at the airport, and bring it back all done and feed the cable back
into place and rivet the RG-1's in place.

This is currently plan A

Plan B will be that there is not a 1/4 eye fitting to swage to 1/8 cable, in
which case it's similar to plan A, but it will be the supplied nicopress
collar and sleeves at the control surfaces end done and proof loaded at the
airport and brought back.

It's a pity the control surfaces ends are fastening to a 1/4 bolt, as a 3/16
would have given no bother to source.

Hope this makes sense.

Nigel
745E



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: 06 February 2005 13:11
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Swaged Cable Ends was Corrosion proofing on bolts


Nigel:

ACS has swaged ends on p 135 of their catalogue (MS20668, for example), but
they take a 3/16" pin. I found some confusion in the instructions and parts
on this. The eyebolts and shackles were 3/16", but the stainless steel
tangs had 1/4" holes. I wound up making new tangs. I also stuck some
turnbuckles at the rudder pedals to provide some pedal adjustment.

These swaged ends are nice, and Leavens here in Canada will do them (not
that that's much good to you), but they're only good for one end on the
Elite, as the second one has to go on after cable installation.

Regards, Al





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Nigel:

That was the only way I thought it could be done, but you also have to get
the cable through a couple of bulkheads (FUS-405 and FUS 445/445A) and the
side skins at the tail., so the holes I think there may be a problem there,
unless you make the holes in the bulkheads pretty big. I made fairleads for
these bulkheads out of some extra RP-13s I got with the kit - cut 1/4"
slices off them. The instructions say nothing about this. Another piece of
Murphy Magic. BTW, it'd sure be lot easier to make the holes in these
bulkheads before everything is riveted togeter at the back end, particularly
that FUS 422 tail wrap.

I was looking at my rudder pedals today, and the advertised way of taking
the cables off seems to guarantee that the tangs will be subjected to some
bending, since the do not line up laterally with the rudder cable fairlead
on the door post. Does your design fix this? If so, would appreciate more
details or a picture.

Al





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Hi Al

Just uploaded a picture to Elite Controls section showing turnbuckle in
place...the angle seems to not be a problem.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: 06 February 2005 23:01
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Swaged Cable Ends was Corrosion proofing on bolts


Nigel:

That was the only way I thought it could be done, but you also have to get
the cable through a couple of bulkheads (FUS-405 and FUS 445/445A) and the
side skins at the tail., so the holes I think there may be a problem there,
unless you make the holes in the bulkheads pretty big. I made fairleads for
these bulkheads out of some extra RP-13s I got with the kit - cut 1/4"
slices off them. The instructions say nothing about this. Another piece of
Murphy Magic. BTW, it'd sure be lot easier to make the holes in these
bulkheads before everything is riveted togeter at the back end, particularly
that FUS 422 tail wrap.

I was looking at my rudder pedals today, and the advertised way of taking
the cables off seems to guarantee that the tangs will be subjected to some
bending, since the do not line up laterally with the rudder cable fairlead
on the door post. Does your design fix this? If so, would appreciate more
details or a picture.

Al





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Nigel:

I'll take a look at that. The angle depends on the lateral placement of the
rudder pedal assemblies, and the instructions give no guidance on that.
They don't give any on the fore and aft placement either, for that matter.
Comparing notes with another builder here in Ontario (Jack Wiebe), who has
built a Rebel before, he placed his as far outboard as possible, whereas
mine are an inch or so further inboard. What I've decided to do, and it may
be similar to your solution, is to retain the eyebolt in the rudder pedal,
but bolt an MM3 rod end to it (3/16" bolt, 3/16" thread on the rod end),
then screw the rod end directly in to a turnbuckle body (3/16" thread
again), with a eye fitting on other end to take the cable and thimble. That
way, it is free to find its own alignment. Anybody want to buy a couple of
AN130 turnbuckles?!

Al





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Nigel:

I had a look at your picture, and I wouldn't be able to do that as my pedals
are further inboard. But basically I'm doing the same thing with a ball end
instead of a fork screwed into the turnbuckle to give me some lateral
movement.

My list of things no do is now down to 19, with about 2000 hours into it in
2 years, including amphibs.


Thanks, Al





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