The Murphy Builders Site

Good morning.
The manual calls for "reaming" the odd hole to the final size. Some are
3/8 , 3/4, 7/16 etc.
I've only seen a tapered reamer and was wondering who could shed some
light on the reaming function.
I have zero experience in this area.
Is there a place to buy a 'set' or ?????


Cheers
Jim
SR083Moose

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Jim

You can purchase reamers from local industrial supply shops or mail order
from companies - always purchase the apropriate # drill bit at the same time
to match the reamer. There are several of us around the share reamers - I
can mail you my wing attachement reamer when you need it. The other ones
were lent to me when I needed them.

Ryan


On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 11:39:12 -0500, Jim Cole wrote

Good morning.
The manual calls for "reaming" the odd hole to the final size. Some
are 3/8 , 3/4, 7/16 etc. I've only seen a tapered reamer and was
wondering who could shed some light on the reaming function. I have
zero experience in this area. Is there a place to buy a 'set' or ?????

Cheers
Jim
SR083Moose

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I'll have a look as well Jim and see just how large I have. Can't remember.
Know I had the one for lift strut attach strap on the 3500 but not sure
about the front wing attach bushing hole. I bought about 60 straight and
stepped reamers from 1/4" to somewhere around 3/4" on ebay awhile back for
about $35. In stores this would have been a $1000+ proposition.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Mowat" <rmowat@forge-industrial.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: Reammer

Jim

You can purchase reamers from local industrial supply shops or mail order
from companies - always purchase the apropriate # drill bit at the same

time

to match the reamer. There are several of us around the share reamers - I
can mail you my wing attachement reamer when you need it. The other ones
were lent to me when I needed them.

Ryan


On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 11:39:12 -0500, Jim Cole wrote

Good morning.
The manual calls for "reaming" the odd hole to the final size. Some
are 3/8 , 3/4, 7/16 etc. I've only seen a tapered reamer and was
wondering who could shed some light on the reaming function. I have
zero experience in this area. Is there a place to buy a 'set' or ?????

Cheers
Jim
SR083Moose

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Hi Jim

This is in the archives a few times but most of us seem to prefer a one
thou undersize reamer. Most bolts are a bit shy of the nominal size so
even that will be large for some bolts. Most reamers will enlarge the
hole by up to about 15 thou (5 thou or so being preferable) so drill a
bit undersize before reaming. The first half inch of a reamer is usually
tapered about 15 thou for easy insertion. Reamers are usually about 6
flutes so that they make a precision sized round hole. You can drive
them by hand or a battery drill works nicely. I purchased mine form KBC
tools but DOAL, MSC, etc have them for less than $10. ea. Look for
"chucking" reamers or "hand" reamers. There are certainly higher quality
ones available and some folks prefer the spiral ones but for home use
I've always been happy with the cheap ones. The only cardinal rule I can
think of is NEVER turn them backwards as it quickly dulls the edge. You
will likely only need the sizes required for wing bolts, strut bolts,
and such. On the Rebel I've used 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8, all a thou
undersize. (Actually the undersize 3/16 one might be only a half thou
undersize)

Ken

Jim Cole wrote:

Good morning.
The manual calls for "reaming" the odd hole to the final size. Some are
3/8 , 3/4, 7/16 etc.
I've only seen a tapered reamer and was wondering who could shed some
light on the reaming function.
I have zero experience in this area.
Is there a place to buy a 'set' or ?????


Cheers
Jim
SR083Moose

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Hi Jim,

I'm not a machinist but will be happy to pass on to you what I think I know :)

There is a short paragraph on using reamers on Murphy's Technical Support
page (http://www.murphyair.com/SUPPORT/Support.htm ) in the document titled
Standard Aircraft Assembly Procedures, Section 1.38, Page 33.

Generally whenever you make a hole for a fastener, you want it to fit that
fastener as closely as possible. The tighter things fit together, the less
movement. Movement of the fastened parts will enlarge the hole and that is
not a good thing. Reaming a bolt hole gives you the best fit.

Reamers, for our purposes anyway, are designed to remove only small amounts
of metal. Something in the neighborhood of .007 inches if I recall correctly.
They cut much less aggresively than a standard drill bit and leave a much
smoother finish to the hole. As well, I believe they are machined to closer
tolerances than a drill bit.

If you haven't already, you should get yourself a table or chart of drill
sizes such as this one at http://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm. This
lists the decimal sizes of all the common metric, inch, letter, and number
drills. I find this handy because when I want to drill a hole for an AN3 bolt
that will be reamed to final size, I first drill a #40 hole, then drill up
from there to just under 3/16ths inch. I can see from the drill size chart
that the next smallest hole size below 3/16ths inch is made by a #13 drill.
So I drill my #40 pilot hole with succesively larger drill bits until I've
drilled it to #13, or .1850 inches diameter. Then I use a 3/16ths inch reamer
and ream the hole to final size .1875 inch. In this example, the reamer only
removes .0025 inch of metal. You could drill the #40 hole up to a size #14
and the reamer would still only be removing .0055 inch of metal. So when I
buy a reamer, I buy or make sure I have a drill bit on hand that is of the
next smaller size.

Whenever possible I always drill/ream holes in the aircraft fittings using
the drill press. It is much more accurate because you can't hold a drill
perfectly steady.

Building my Rebel, I've only ever had a need for straight flute, high speed
steel, 'chucking' reamers which I've purchased at McMaster Carr
(http://www.mcmaster.com/). They aren't too expensive. One each of 3/16ths,
5/16ths, 1/4 inch, and 3/8ths inch sizes has been all I've needed and when
you are using them to drill aluminum, they last forever.

Hope this helps.

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!



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Jim,
I would add that in some cases like my landing gear saddle bolts I had a
reamer made at Swift Tool, 253-854-7777, Kent, WA. They take a standard
reamer and grind a pilot and any undersize specification for an extra $20 or
so.
Al

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: Reammer

Hi Jim

This is in the archives a few times but most of us seem to prefer a one
thou undersize reamer. Most bolts are a bit shy of the nominal size so
even that will be large for some bolts. Most reamers will enlarge the
hole by up to about 15 thou (5 thou or so being preferable) so drill a
bit undersize before reaming. The first half inch of a reamer is usually
tapered about 15 thou for easy insertion. Reamers are usually about 6
flutes so that they make a precision sized round hole. You can drive
them by hand or a battery drill works nicely. I purchased mine form KBC
tools but DOAL, MSC, etc have them for less than $10. ea. Look for
"chucking" reamers or "hand" reamers. There are certainly higher quality
ones available and some folks prefer the spiral ones but for home use
I've always been happy with the cheap ones. The only cardinal rule I can
think of is NEVER turn them backwards as it quickly dulls the edge. You
will likely only need the sizes required for wing bolts, strut bolts,
and such. On the Rebel I've used 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8, all a thou
undersize. (Actually the undersize 3/16 one might be only a half thou
undersize)

Ken

Jim Cole wrote:

Good morning.
The manual calls for "reaming" the odd hole to the final size. Some are
3/8 , 3/4, 7/16 etc.
I've only seen a tapered reamer and was wondering who could shed some
light on the reaming function.
I have zero experience in this area.
Is there a place to buy a 'set' or ?????


Cheers
Jim
SR083Moose

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my $.02 on reamers in general is don't stop them in the hole, run them until
they are completely removed. Watch the RPM range some of the higher speed
air drills can turn the reamer into a router bit. I have used a reamer on a lot
of the tail parts and it saves on the deburring...... seems so anyway.

Brad




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