The Murphy Builders Site

Can some help clarify the aileron install instructions?

For the hinge attachments, the manual calls for drilled bolts and castle
nuts but also says to tighten them so the bushing does not move. That
seems to be a better place to use nylon locking nuts since you don't have
to line up a hole. Same problem but opposite for the pull rod.

Thanks.

Brent

P.S. For anyone with a quick build, watch out for areas not dimpled on the
ailerons that are supposed to be. Real PIA since I noticed the right
aileron was not dimpled after closing it up. Now I am trying to figure out
how to dimple without having access to the back of the skin! Any ideas?




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At 11:06 PM 12/19/2004 -0700, you wrote:

Can some help clarify the aileron install instructions?

For the hinge attachments, the manual calls for drilled bolts and castle
nuts but also says to tighten them so the bushing does not move. That
seems to be a better place to use nylon locking nuts since you don't have
to line up a hole. Same problem but opposite for the pull rod.

Thanks.

Brent

Anyplace where there's a chance of the bolt rotating requires a castle nut
and pin.

P.S. For anyone with a quick build, watch out for areas not dimpled on the
ailerons that are supposed to be. Real PIA since I noticed the right
aileron was not dimpled after closing it up. Now I am trying to figure out
how to dimple without having access to the back of the skin! Any ideas?

Is it thick enough to countersink?
Drew





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P.S. For anyone with a quick build, watch out for areas not dimpled on the
ailerons that are supposed to be. Real PIA since I noticed the right
aileron was not dimpled after closing it up. Now I am trying to figure out
how to dimple without having access to the back of the skin! Any ideas?

Brent,
I don't know if they exist, but if there were aluminum pop rivets made for
countersunk or dimpled holes, you could put pop those in -- they would
probably press a dimple and then as aluminum, easily drill out. Just a
thought.
-Ben/ 496R



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Brent,
This is another case where you have to read Murphy's instructions
carefully before you build. I, too, closed a flap before I realized
that several holes under the center hinge cover needed to be dimpled.
I used a piece of thin electrical wire to thread a piece of my wife's
sewing thread through the hole that needed to be dimpled and out a
notch in the nearby leading-edge rib. Then I tied a nail-type dimpler
onto the MIDDLE of the thread. By pulling on one end of the thread I
could get the nail to go through the hole - sometimes with a bit of
jiggling. A popsicle stick through a notch in the L.E. rib held the
nail while I put the rivet puller over it. After dimpling the hole, I
pulled the other end of the thread to retrieve the dimpler. Don't ask
how I learned that the dimpler has to be tied onto the middle of the
thread.

I hope that you don't have to dimple the holes in an interior bay since
this method only works where you have access to the nearest L.E. rib.
Even so, it was an unpleasant process that required a lot of patience
and about 30 minutes per hole after I figured out how to do the first
one.
---
Roger Cole
rcole927@earthlink.net
Elite 709

On Monday, December 20, 2004, at 12:06 AM, Brent Blue wrote:

Can some help clarify the aileron install instructions?

For the hinge attachments, the manual calls for drilled bolts and
castle
nuts but also says to tighten them so the bushing does not move. That
seems to be a better place to use nylon locking nuts since you don't
have
to line up a hole. Same problem but opposite for the pull rod.

Thanks.

Brent

P.S. For anyone with a quick build, watch out for areas not dimpled
on the
ailerons that are supposed to be. Real PIA since I noticed the right
aileron was not dimpled after closing it up. Now I am trying to
figure out
how to dimple without having access to the back of the skin! Any
ideas?




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