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Drilling holes

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Drilling holes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:26 pm
by Mike Davis
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From: Ian Donaldson <allsure@ne.com.au>
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G'day from Australia


This might seem a stupid question, but what is a good way from stopping
the drill chuck from marking the aluminum when the bit breaks through?
Is there something that I can put on the drill bit?

Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson




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Drilling holes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:26 pm
by Mike Davis
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Drilling holes
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Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 10:39:57 -0400


There are no dumb questions ! (some of the answers, well ....) :-)
That's what this list is for - we're here to help others to avoid OUR
mistakes !

There is a gadget called a drill stop that fits on the bit that will
stop the drill from continueing down past it. A simple, cheap solution
is to slip a piece of clear fuel line over the bit, leaving just 1/4"
exposed at the biting end.

If you have to push hard enough that the drill chuck is hitting the
skins, it sounds like you are WAY overdue for a new bit !! The cheapest
thing you can do to save yourself time, and get a nicer Rebel is:

THROW AWAY the old drill bits, as soon as they require a push to
work properly !! Builders here have found that, if you use a high-speed
(4,500 - 6,000 rpm) drill, and sharp bits, you can ALMOST eliminate the
tedious job of de-burring, AND get nicer holes. These drills are available
in both air driven and electric, although you will have to search for
the electric models...

Folks have not had much success re-sharpening these small bits -
they never seem to work as well, and are fairly cheap to replace, so
it's not worth the effort.

.....bobp
-----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 09:59 PM 9/5/99 +1000, you wrote:
G'day from Australia


This might seem a stupid question, but what is a good way from stopping
the drill chuck from marking the aluminum when the bit breaks through?
Is there something that I can put on the drill bit?

Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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Drilling holes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:26 pm
by Mike Davis
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Man you are full of info these days Bob.
Those oldy Goldy Matco wheels do indeed only have a 680 static rating which
I
assume must be lbs :(
There is a gadget called a drill stop that fits on the bit that will
stop the drill from continueing down past it. A simple, cheap solution
is to slip a piece of clear fuel line over the bit, leaving just 1/4"
exposed at the biting end.
Ian, FWIW I also found this useful when drilling the wing stringers to make
sure
I didn't go through and nick the back side of the "J" but the hose does like
to
collect aluminum chips and scratch the surface. A $3. drill stops was a
little
better. They include a spring and a hard plastic rounded stop that doesn't
collect chips. Leaving the plastic coating on the aluminum as long as
possible
also helps.
Builders here have found that, if you use a high-speed
(4,500 - 6,000 rpm) drill, and sharp bits, you can ALMOST eliminate the
tedious job of de-burring, AND get nicer holes.
Gee and I thought I was doing well to upgrade from an 1800 to a 2800rpm
drill!
Anyway you might also try the 135 degree split point bits for the #40 size.
Very
nice for the first small hole. Less than $1. ea. by the dozen from DoAll or
an
industrial supplier. A dozen HSS ones last me for several thousand holes.
The
higher quality cobalt ones last even longer.

Ken




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Drilling holes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:26 pm
by Mike Davis
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Drilling holes
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 10:23:10 -0400

Anyway you might also try the 135 degree split point bits for the #40 size.
Sounds interesting ! Could you bring a couple of samples to the next
meeting ??

Thanks ! .....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:49 PM 9/5/99 -0400, you wrote:
Man you are full of info these days Bob.
Those oldy Goldy Matco wheels do indeed only have a 680 static rating which
I
assume must be lbs :(
There is a gadget called a drill stop that fits on the bit that will
stop the drill from continueing down past it. A simple, cheap solution
is to slip a piece of clear fuel line over the bit, leaving just 1/4"
exposed at the biting end.
Ian, FWIW I also found this useful when drilling the wing stringers to make
sure
I didn't go through and nick the back side of the "J" but the hose does
like to
collect aluminum chips and scratch the surface. A $3. drill stops was a
little
better. They include a spring and a hard plastic rounded stop that doesn't
collect chips. Leaving the plastic coating on the aluminum as long as
possible
also helps.
Builders here have found that, if you use a high-speed
(4,500 - 6,000 rpm) drill, and sharp bits, you can ALMOST eliminate the
tedious job of de-burring, AND get nicer holes.
Gee and I thought I was doing well to upgrade from an 1800 to a 2800rpm
drill!
Anyway you might also try the 135 degree split point bits for the #40 size.
Very
nice for the first small hole. Less than $1. ea. by the dozen from DoAll or
an
industrial supplier. A dozen HSS ones last me for several thousand holes.
The
higher quality cobalt ones last even longer.

Ken

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*





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Drilling holes

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:26 pm
by Mike Davis
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Black & Decker has both the "Pilot Point" and "Split Point" drill bits.
Using those drill bits I very seldom have to use the center punch.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Drilling holes

Anyway you might also try the 135 degree split point bits for the #40
size.
Sounds interesting ! Could you bring a couple of samples to the next
meeting ??

Thanks ! .....bobp

-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 05:49 PM 9/5/99 -0400, you wrote:
Man you are full of info these days Bob.
Those oldy Goldy Matco wheels do indeed only have a 680 static rating
which I
assume must be lbs :(
There is a gadget called a drill stop that fits on the bit that will
stop the drill from continueing down past it. A simple, cheap solution
is to slip a piece of clear fuel line over the bit, leaving just 1/4"
exposed at the biting end.
Ian, FWIW I also found this useful when drilling the wing stringers to
make
sure
I didn't go through and nick the back side of the "J" but the hose does
like to
collect aluminum chips and scratch the surface. A $3. drill stops was a
little
better. They include a spring and a hard plastic rounded stop that doesn't
collect chips. Leaving the plastic coating on the aluminum as long as
possible
also helps.
Builders here have found that, if you use a high-speed
(4,500 - 6,000 rpm) drill, and sharp bits, you can ALMOST eliminate the
tedious job of de-burring, AND get nicer holes.
Gee and I thought I was doing well to upgrade from an 1800 to a 2800rpm
drill!
Anyway you might also try the 135 degree split point bits for the #40
size.
Very
nice for the first small hole. Less than $1. ea. by the dozen from DoAll
or an
industrial supplier. A dozen HSS ones last me for several thousand holes.
The
higher quality cobalt ones last even longer.

Ken

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*



*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*


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