Gull doors on Reb
Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:50 am
In a message dated 12/10/2004 6:34:45 PM Central Standard Time,
britishthunder@sympatico.ca writes:
Would any one know the measurement for the front bottom corner to convert
the door on a rebel to a swing up door? a new radius or 45 deg angle so it
will clear the strut.
2 3/4" up 11 1/2" back for the wedge at the door 3" up wouldn't hurt a
thing. You will have to modify you're door frame also. It takes some bending and
twinking to get the front bottom corner right. And you'll have to cut and
extend the frame at the bottom where the wedge starts. When you get the bottom
frame to fit nicely ,then do the top and carefuly mark where the two pieces
will be cut to join them together. Make sure they're equal distants from the
top, for you're cross piece. and you have enough room for you're door skin
overlap. I cant remember the OD tubing I used the splice the door frames
together and make the bottom extention piece, but it was .065 wall thickness. It
worked good but was tough bending. If you want opening windows that can swing up
or down, depending on where you put the hinge you'll have to order an extra
uper door frame for the door. And cut it down to fit inside of the door frame
to attatch the lexan and hinge point to. I did gullwings doors with the info
and help from other people on the list, when all was done it's a nice option.
I didn't use gas struts though. I took the suplyed friction male female
latches and mounted the male part to the bottom of the frame and the female part
just ahead of the main spar there is enough friction to hold the door up. I
havn't found a recessed lockable D ring or paddle handle for the instalation
yet
PDSmith
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britishthunder@sympatico.ca writes:
Would any one know the measurement for the front bottom corner to convert
the door on a rebel to a swing up door? a new radius or 45 deg angle so it
will clear the strut.
2 3/4" up 11 1/2" back for the wedge at the door 3" up wouldn't hurt a
thing. You will have to modify you're door frame also. It takes some bending and
twinking to get the front bottom corner right. And you'll have to cut and
extend the frame at the bottom where the wedge starts. When you get the bottom
frame to fit nicely ,then do the top and carefuly mark where the two pieces
will be cut to join them together. Make sure they're equal distants from the
top, for you're cross piece. and you have enough room for you're door skin
overlap. I cant remember the OD tubing I used the splice the door frames
together and make the bottom extention piece, but it was .065 wall thickness. It
worked good but was tough bending. If you want opening windows that can swing up
or down, depending on where you put the hinge you'll have to order an extra
uper door frame for the door. And cut it down to fit inside of the door frame
to attatch the lexan and hinge point to. I did gullwings doors with the info
and help from other people on the list, when all was done it's a nice option.
I didn't use gas struts though. I took the suplyed friction male female
latches and mounted the male part to the bottom of the frame and the female part
just ahead of the main spar there is enough friction to hold the door up. I
havn't found a recessed lockable D ring or paddle handle for the instalation
yet
PDSmith
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