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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 13:30:09 +0000
From: "@home" <danmorehouse@home.com>
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Hello!

I'm getting back into building my Rebel 280 after being away from
building and this list since about February. At that time I had major
questions about the spring gear. I have reviewed Mike's web site (THANKS
MIKE!) and have really appreciated the photos and archived
correspondence. It looks like there hasn't been much new since January
concerning the upgrade of the spring gear. I'll ask Murphy about their
plans.

As far as I understand it Alister, our in the field engineer, has put
in solid blocks in each of the four ends of the carrythroughs. There was
mention of some drawings of this. I'd sure like to see them.

I've gone to .032 on the bottom rolled and tapered corners and side
panels. I've also added the doublers near the top doorpost and at the
rear attach bracket. Now it sounds like the front upper panel (fus
could be reinforced. Sure appreciate all the feedback about this from
this list!

Any suggestions before I start into the spring gear section?

Take care,
Dan Morehouse
R280




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From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:35:27 +1200
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Hi Dan,

I was asked by Grant not to spread this fix all over the net as they were
going to come up with another option, that was some time ago and I see no
sign of it.

In my opinion you would be unwise to proceed without doing something to tidy
up the area of the spring gear outer attach bolts. You only have to look at
the Murphy setup to see it has the potential to cause problems.

The solid aluminum block option is really good if you can do it while
constructing, but its not such a good option if you are already past that
point as you have to pull so much to bits to do it. My aircraft appears to
be bullet proof in that area now( touch wood!).

It is very straight forward. My blocks were if I remember correctly 5 thou
over 1 3/4" square and 21/4" long.

The corners on the block that match with the tubes must have a BIGGER radius
than the
tube. the inner end of the block should have a taper so it does not form a
stress raiser.

One side of the block will have two channels milled into it to clear the
strut attach bracket rivets.

The AN3 bolts in that area are replaced with long AN4 that pass right thru
both carrythroughs.

All holes in the block should be drilled in a drill press to keep them
square, fit one side at a time so that to remove them while still working on
them they can be driven out with a soft bar from the other side.

Remember to retighten regularly initially when in the flight test program.

I think thats about it.

Cheers

Alister.



-----Original Message-----
From: @home <danmorehouse@home.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 8:32 AM
Subject: spring gear strengthening

Hello!

I'm getting back into building my Rebel 280 after being away from
building and this list since about February. At that time I had major
questions about the spring gear. I have reviewed Mike's web site (THANKS
MIKE!) and have really appreciated the photos and archived
correspondence. It looks like there hasn't been much new since January
concerning the upgrade of the spring gear. I'll ask Murphy about their
plans.

As far as I understand it Alister, our in the field engineer, has put
in solid blocks in each of the four ends of the carrythroughs. There was
mention of some drawings of this. I'd sure like to see them.

I've gone to .032 on the bottom rolled and tapered corners and side
panels. I've also added the doublers near the top doorpost and at the
rear attach bracket. Now it sounds like the front upper panel (fus
could be reinforced. Sure appreciate all the feedback about this from
this list!

Any suggestions before I start into the spring gear section?

Take care,
Dan Morehouse
R280

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

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Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 23:45:53 +0000
From: Dan Morehouse <danmorehouse@home.com>
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Hi Dan,

......The solid aluminum block option is really good if you can do it
while
constructing, but its not such a good option if you are already past
that
point as you have to pull so much to bits to do it. My aircraft appears
to
be bullet proof in that area now( touch wood!).

It is very straight forward. My blocks were if I remember correctly 5
thou
over 1 3/4" square and 21/4" long.

The corners on the block that match with the tubes must have a BIGGER
radius
than the
tube. the inner end of the block should have a taper so it does not form
a
stress raiser.

One side of the block will have two channels milled into it to clear the

strut attach bracket rivets.

The AN3 bolts in that area are replaced with long AN4 that pass right
thru
both carrythroughs.

All holes in the block should be drilled in a drill press to keep them
square, fit one side at a time so that to remove them while still
working on
them they can be driven out with a soft bar from the other side.

Remember to retighten regularly initially when in the flight test
program.

I think thats about it.

Cheers

Alister.

Thanks for the quick response, Alister.

So let me see if I picture this right. The carrythroughs are 1 3/4"
square on the inside. The blocks are square in cross section, with the
outboard end being .005" larger than 1 3/4" and the inboard end being
somewhat smaller (like .005 less than 1 3/4?). So do I tap them in nice
and snug with enough on the outside ends to give edge distance for the
AN4s?

There are 3 bolts to go through both carrythroughs. I've already drilled
them to the size called for (3/16?) and enlarged the openings on the
non-bracket sides to ~3/4" to allow socket wrench clearance. This
doesn't leave much meat left in that area of the carrythroughs.

Starting from scratch it might be possible to drill through the
carrythrough, block, carrythrough, bracket, upright, and on through it's
twin all at once. In my case, with the roof and stuff already attached,
it makes it more challenging. With only 1/16" to play with from going
from my old 3/16'' holes to the 1/4" ones, I'd be shy to pre-drill the
blocks. Is there a portable press that would work? Any suggestions?

Take care,
Dan
R280

PS: Is there an easy way to quote something from the Digest? I'm cutting
and pasting.




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Just remembered, Alister:

In your block fix, what did you do with the AN5s and crush tubes that go
vertically through the carrythroughs? And the spacer block with the AN6?

Dan
R280




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From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
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Hi again,

This is fun isn't it!! Trying to get ideas across, it is all rather abstract
I think!!!

No! that is not what I meant. The solid block is square at 5 thou over 1
3/4" ( thats what mine was,it would pay to mic. yours up to double check( I
just checked with another builder over here and his was dead on 1 3/4")). It
is about 2 1/4 " long and the end that is placed to the inside has the sharp
corners taken off to stop any stress raisers. ( this can be done with a
file, I called it a taper and that was probably a little confusing, but you
would want to start 'tapering' it from say, about 1/2" back from the end,
but not back to the point of where the AN 4 bolt passes thru it.)

Next little trick! I understand your concerns regarding drilling the AN3
holes right thru' the whole works and maintaining accuracy. The key is to
start on the inside and work out. place an insert in the carrythrough in
the correct position and run a drill from the other side thru' the opposite
carrythrough, wing strut attach brackets and door post and then 'witness
mark' the insert on the inside for the three required holes. Remove the
insert and drill to 3/16' in a drill press.

Replace the insert, fit the second insert but this time' witness mark' the
new insert by backdrilling thru' the holes you have just drilled in the
drill press and thru' the doorpost etc.. When they are all done open them up
to 1/4". This method minimises any errors that may be there.

On the outside of the carrythrough where you drilled the 3/4" holes to fit
the socket thru', the boltheads and nuts can fit inside these to pull
directly on the insert. No problem there.( they may need to be relieved a
little.)

Now, I believe I may have told you a lie, the two inner bolts I moved up to
1/4", but the outside bolt I left at 3/16".

The same method of 'witness marking' is used to locate the outside 5/16"
straddle bracket holes. Place the inserts in the carrythroughs and use the
AN4 ( AN3) bolts to correctly locate them. 'Witness mark' the straddle bolt
holes from the BOTTOM not the top ( remember these were free hand drilled,
if they were marked at the top and drilled down they probably would not
match fit the brackets) remove inserts and drill in a drill press.

Getting the picture now?

I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I said
two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear rivets,
this may be incorrect. I have just been talking to another builder who has
just gone thru' this and he said this is not needed. My memory is starting
to fail me !!!!

What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the bottom
63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the insert and
drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull. The same applies to
where the panel below the door sill is riveted.

Another trick is to extend the top 63 thou plate right out to pick up the
outside straddle attach bolt at the top, this just adds a little more beef.

The inside 3/8" bolt and spacer remain as they are. ( I did move mine to
7/16" and the outers to 3/8")

In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of this. if
you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to without
cluttering this forum.

I think thats it.

Cheers

Alister


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <danmorehouse@home.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: re: spring gear strengthening

Just remembered, Alister:

In your block fix, what did you do with the AN5s and crush tubes that go
vertically through the carrythroughs? And the spacer block with the AN6?

Dan
R280

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*

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----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi again,

This is fun isn't it!! Trying to get ideas across, it is all rather

abstract

I think!!!

No! that is not what I meant. The solid block is square at 5 thou over 1
3/4" ( thats what mine was,it would pay to mic. yours up to double

heck( I

just checked with another builder over here and his was dead on 1 3/4")).

It

is about 2 1/4 " long and the end that is placed to the inside has the

sharp

corners taken off to stop any stress raisers. ( this can be done with a
file, I called it a taper and that was probably a little confusing, but

you

would want to start 'tapering' it from say, about 1/2" back from the end,
but not back to the point of where the AN 4 bolt passes thru it.)

Next little trick! I understand your concerns regarding drilling the AN3
holes right thru' the whole works and maintaining accuracy. The key is to
start on the inside and work out. place an insert in the carrythrough in
the correct position and run a drill from the other side thru' the

opposite

carrythrough, wing strut attach brackets and door post and then 'witness
mark' the insert on the inside for the three required holes. Remove the
insert and drill to 3/16' in a drill press.

Replace the insert, fit the second insert but this time' witness mark' the
new insert by backdrilling thru' the holes you have just drilled in the
drill press and thru' the doorpost etc.. When they are all done open them

up

to 1/4". This method minimises any errors that may be there.

On the outside of the carrythrough where you drilled the 3/4" holes to fit
the socket thru', the boltheads and nuts can fit inside these to pull
directly on the insert. No problem there.( they may need to be relieved a
little.)

Now, I believe I may have told you a lie, the two inner bolts I moved up

to

1/4", but the outside bolt I left at 3/16".

The same method of 'witness marking' is used to locate the outside 5/16"
straddle bracket holes. Place the inserts in the carrythroughs and use

the

AN4 ( AN3) bolts to correctly locate them. 'Witness mark' the straddle

bolt

holes from the BOTTOM not the top ( remember these were free hand drilled,
if they were marked at the top and drilled down they probably would not
match fit the brackets) remove inserts and drill in a drill press.

Getting the picture now?

I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I said
two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear

rivets,

this may be incorrect. I have just been talking to another builder who has
just gone thru' this and he said this is not needed. My memory is starting
to fail me !!!!

What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the

bottom

63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the insert

and

drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull. The same applies to
where the panel below the door sill is riveted.

Another trick is to extend the top 63 thou plate right out to pick up the
outside straddle attach bolt at the top, this just adds a little more

beef.

The inside 3/8" bolt and spacer remain as they are. ( I did move mine to
7/16" and the outers to 3/8")

In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of this.

if

you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to without
cluttering this forum.

I think thats it.

Cheers

Alister


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <danmorehouse@home.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: re: spring gear strengthening

Just remembered, Alister:

In your block fix, what did you do with the AN5s and crush tubes that go
vertically through the carrythroughs? And the spacer block with the AN6?

Dan
R280

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*

Alistar:

Been closely following the spring gear discussion, pls include:
Globo@whidbey.net when you distribute the pictures.

Thank you

Kent Vandervelde




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Alister

I think there is enough interest in what you have done on the gear mounts
that
we should ask Wray to put up a section on his page rather than sending the
photos etc to individuals. What do you & Wray think?

Dave R.
Elite #583


PS For my part, I am guessing this info will be of interest to Elite & SR
builders as well as "normal" Rebels.



Kent Vandervelde wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi again,

This is fun isn't it!! Trying to get ideas across, it is all rather

abstract

I think!!!

No! that is not what I meant. The solid block is square at 5 thou over 1
3/4" ( thats what mine was,it would pay to mic. yours up to double

heck( I

just checked with another builder over here and his was dead on 1

3/4")).

It

is about 2 1/4 " long and the end that is placed to the inside has the

sharp

corners taken off to stop any stress raisers. ( this can be done with a
file, I called it a taper and that was probably a little confusing, but

you

would want to start 'tapering' it from say, about 1/2" back from the

end,

but not back to the point of where the AN 4 bolt passes thru it.)

Next little trick! I understand your concerns regarding drilling the AN3
holes right thru' the whole works and maintaining accuracy. The key is

to

start on the inside and work out. place an insert in the carrythrough

in

the correct position and run a drill from the other side thru' the

opposite

carrythrough, wing strut attach brackets and door post and then 'witness
mark' the insert on the inside for the three required holes. Remove the
insert and drill to 3/16' in a drill press.

Replace the insert, fit the second insert but this time' witness mark'

the

new insert by backdrilling thru' the holes you have just drilled in the
drill press and thru' the doorpost etc.. When they are all done open

them

up

to 1/4". This method minimises any errors that may be there.

On the outside of the carrythrough where you drilled the 3/4" holes to

fit

the socket thru', the boltheads and nuts can fit inside these to pull
directly on the insert. No problem there.( they may need to be relieved

a

little.)

Now, I believe I may have told you a lie, the two inner bolts I moved up

to

1/4", but the outside bolt I left at 3/16".

The same method of 'witness marking' is used to locate the outside 5/16"
straddle bracket holes. Place the inserts in the carrythroughs and use

the

AN4 ( AN3) bolts to correctly locate them. 'Witness mark' the straddle

bolt

holes from the BOTTOM not the top ( remember these were free hand

drilled,

if they were marked at the top and drilled down they probably would not
match fit the brackets) remove inserts and drill in a drill press.

Getting the picture now?

I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I

said

two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear

rivets,

this may be incorrect. I have just been talking to another builder who

has

just gone thru' this and he said this is not needed. My memory is

starting

to fail me !!!!

What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the

bottom

63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the insert

and

drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull. The same applies to
where the panel below the door sill is riveted.

Another trick is to extend the top 63 thou plate right out to pick up

the

outside straddle attach bolt at the top, this just adds a little more

beef.

The inside 3/8" bolt and spacer remain as they are. ( I did move mine to
7/16" and the outers to 3/8")

In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of this.

if

you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to

without

cluttering this forum.

I think thats it.

Cheers

Alister


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <danmorehouse@home.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: re: spring gear strengthening

Just remembered, Alister:

In your block fix, what did you do with the AN5s and crush tubes that

go

vertically through the carrythroughs? And the spacer block with the

AN6?

Dan
R280

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

Alistar:

Been closely following the spring gear discussion, pls include:
Globo@whidbey.net when you distribute the pictures.

Thank you

Kent Vandervelde

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256





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Received: from SHMCEX2 by ns.peacehealth.org
via smtpd (for [209.136.244.17]) with SMTP; 2 Sep 1999 17:06:47 UT
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Message-ID:
<2F3D3BCF56E1D2119A0200A0247313D5256D28@sjhmcex1.peacehealth.org>
From: "Morehouse, Daniel G" <DMorehouse@peacehealth.org>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: spring gear strengthening
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 10:06:39 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Thanks, Alister!

Things are getting clearer now. So the crush tubes are discarded and
'replaced' with the insert.

And fitting the oversized by .005 insert is done by just sliding/tapping in?
I understand what you said about the taper vs filing off the inside corners.

I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I said
two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear
rivets,
this may be incorrect.

What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the
bottom
63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the insert
and
drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull.

So a channel for the rivet ends could be milled prior to fitting (as you
mentioned originally) or done by the 'witness marking' after milling.

In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of this.
if
you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to without
cluttering this forum.

Play address: danmorehouse@home.com
Play with pay address: dmorehouse@peacehealth.org








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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Message-Id: <E11MkeD-0001nH-00@smtp2.interramp.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 00:08:21 -0400


Don't forget that Mike can put them up here on dcsol.com, too !!

The tips will be very useful for Elite builders, but of no importance
to Super Rebel builders. The Super Rebel has a PROPER, very sturdy,
gear attachment scheme, with massive milled blocks tranferring the loads
to massive I-beams - a MUCH better design !

Sure would be nice if the Super Rebel design could be scaled-down
to replace the Elite. Just shorten the fuse & the wing, and voila !!
I'm sure it's not that simple, but it sure would make a rugged airplane !!
With the Super's solid ribs, and a 30 ft. wing, the gross would likely be
at least 2,000 lb !! Enough to make up for the extra weight of the fuse ...
Of course, you'd need a bigger engine - but then, that's what most
seem to want anyway !!

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 03:54 PM 9/1/99 -0300, you wrote:

Alister

I think there is enough interest in what you have done on the gear mounts

that

we should ask Wray to put up a section on his page rather than sending the
photos etc to individuals. What do you & Wray think?

Dave R.
Elite #583


PS For my part, I am guessing this info will be of interest to Elite & SR
builders as well as "normal" Rebels.



Kent Vandervelde wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi again,

This is fun isn't it!! Trying to get ideas across, it is all rather

abstract

I think!!!

No! that is not what I meant. The solid block is square at 5 thou over

1

3/4" ( thats what mine was,it would pay to mic. yours up to double

heck( I

just checked with another builder over here and his was dead on 1

3/4")).

It

is about 2 1/4 " long and the end that is placed to the inside has the

sharp

corners taken off to stop any stress raisers. ( this can be done with a
file, I called it a taper and that was probably a little confusing, but

you

would want to start 'tapering' it from say, about 1/2" back from the

end,

but not back to the point of where the AN 4 bolt passes thru it.)

Next little trick! I understand your concerns regarding drilling the

AN3

holes right thru' the whole works and maintaining accuracy. The key is

to

start on the inside and work out. place an insert in the carrythrough

in

the correct position and run a drill from the other side thru' the

opposite

carrythrough, wing strut attach brackets and door post and then

'witness

mark' the insert on the inside for the three required holes. Remove the
insert and drill to 3/16' in a drill press.

Replace the insert, fit the second insert but this time' witness mark'

the

new insert by backdrilling thru' the holes you have just drilled in the
drill press and thru' the doorpost etc.. When they are all done open

them

up

to 1/4". This method minimises any errors that may be there.

On the outside of the carrythrough where you drilled the 3/4" holes to

fit

the socket thru', the boltheads and nuts can fit inside these to pull
directly on the insert. No problem there.( they may need to be relieved

a

little.)

Now, I believe I may have told you a lie, the two inner bolts I moved

up

to

1/4", but the outside bolt I left at 3/16".

The same method of 'witness marking' is used to locate the outside

5/16"

straddle bracket holes. Place the inserts in the carrythroughs and use

the

AN4 ( AN3) bolts to correctly locate them. 'Witness mark' the straddle

bolt

holes from the BOTTOM not the top ( remember these were free hand

drilled,

if they were marked at the top and drilled down they probably would not
match fit the brackets) remove inserts and drill in a drill press.

Getting the picture now?

I may have also told you another lie! In a previous e-mail I think I

said

two channels need to be milled on the sides of the inserts to clear

rivets,

this may be incorrect. I have just been talking to another builder who

has

just gone thru' this and he said this is not needed. My memory is

starting

to fail me !!!!

What you will find is that where the 3/16" rivets come thru' from the

bottom

63" plate, you can 'witness mark' these on the insert, remove the

insert

and

drill a hole big enough to allow the rivets to pull. The same applies

to

where the panel below the door sill is riveted.

Another trick is to extend the top 63 thou plate right out to pick up

the

outside straddle attach bolt at the top, this just adds a little more

beef.

The inside 3/8" bolt and spacer remain as they are. ( I did move mine

to

7/16" and the outers to 3/8")

In a couple of days I will be in a position to post some photos of

this.

if

you are interested send me an e-mail address I could post them to

without

cluttering this forum.

I think thats it.

Cheers

Alister


-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Morehouse <danmorehouse@home.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: re: spring gear strengthening

go

AN6?

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

Alistar:

Been closely following the spring gear discussion, pls include:
Globo@whidbey.net when you distribute the pictures.

Thank you

Kent Vandervelde

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256


*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

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Message-ID: <002201bef5ce$18651b60$a81915cb@dialup.voyager.co.nz>
From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:34:26 +1200
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Hi all,

I have sent three photos of the solid block insert mod to Mike so that he
can do something constructive with them.

I apologise for the quality of the finished product, the photos were OK but
perhaps my scanner is not the best quality!

If you look carefully you may be able to see the layout.

Cheers

Alister



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Don't forget that Mike can put them up here on dcsol.com, too !!

The tips will be very useful for Elite builders, but of no importance
to Super Rebel builders. The Super Rebel has a PROPER, very sturdy,
gear attachment scheme, with massive milled blocks tranferring the loads
to massive I-beams - a MUCH better design !

Sure would be nice if the Super Rebel design could be scaled-down
to replace the Elite. Just shorten the fuse & the wing, and voila !!
I'm sure it's not that simple, but it sure would make a rugged airplane !!
With the Super's solid ribs, and a 30 ft. wing, the gross would likely be
at least 2,000 lb !! Enough to make up for the extra weight of the fuse ...
Of course, you'd need a bigger engine - but then, that's what most
seem to want anyway !!

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 03:54 PM 9/1/99 -0300, you wrote:

Alister

I think there is enough interest in what you have done on the gear mounts

that

we should ask Wray to put up a section on his page rather than sending the
photos etc to individuals. What do you & Wray think?

Dave R.
Elite #583


PS For my part, I am guessing this info will be of interest to Elite & SR
builders as well as "normal" Rebels.



Kent Vandervelde wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
abstract

1

heck( I

3/4")).

It sharp

a

but

you

end,

AN3

to

in

opposite

'witness

the

the

the

them

up

fit

relieved a

up

to

5/16"

use

the bolt

drilled,

not

said

rivets,

has

starting

bottom

insert

and

to

the

beef.

to

this.

if

without

go

AN6?

Alistar:

Been closely following the spring gear discussion, pls include:
Globo@whidbey.net when you distribute the pictures.

Thank you

Kent Vandervelde

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256


*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

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by alpha1.tf.bp.nrl.navy.mil (AltaVista Mail V2.0J/2.0J BL25J listener)
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From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
References: <002201bef5ce$18651b60$a81915cb@dialup.voyager.co.nz>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 06:52:11 -0400
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I've placed the photos Alister sent me on the following page...

http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/galle ... /page2.htm

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi all,

I have sent three photos of the solid block insert mod to Mike so that he
can do something constructive with them.

I apologise for the quality of the finished product, the photos were OK

but

perhaps my scanner is not the best quality!

If you look carefully you may be able to see the layout.

Cheers

Alister



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Don't forget that Mike can put them up here on dcsol.com, too !!

The tips will be very useful for Elite builders, but of no importance
to Super Rebel builders. The Super Rebel has a PROPER, very sturdy,
gear attachment scheme, with massive milled blocks tranferring the loads
to massive I-beams - a MUCH better design !

Sure would be nice if the Super Rebel design could be scaled-down
to replace the Elite. Just shorten the fuse & the wing, and voila !!
I'm sure it's not that simple, but it sure would make a rugged airplane

!!

With the Super's solid ribs, and a 30 ft. wing, the gross would likely be
at least 2,000 lb !! Enough to make up for the extra weight of the fuse

....

Of course, you'd need a bigger engine - but then, that's what most
seem to want anyway !!

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 03:54 PM 9/1/99 -0300, you wrote:

Alister

I think there is enough interest in what you have done on the gear

mounts

that

we should ask Wray to put up a section on his page rather than sending

the

photos etc to individuals. What do you & Wray think?

Dave R.
Elite #583


PS For my part, I am guessing this info will be of interest to Elite &

SR

builders as well as "normal" Rebels.



Kent Vandervelde wrote:

over

1

3/4")).

the

with

a

but

end,

AN3

is

to

carrythrough

in

'witness

the

mark'

the

the

them

to

fit

pull

relieved a

moved

up

5/16"

use

straddle

drilled,

not

said

who

has

starting

the

insert

applies

to

up

the

more

mine

to

this.

without

that

go

AN6?

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256

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Received: from tim - 209.119.137.69 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC;
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 11:03:20 -0700
Reply-To: <tlcarter@msn.com>
From: "Tim Carter" <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: "'Murphy Rebel Builders List'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: spring gear strengthening
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 11:03:22 -0700
Message-ID: <000301bef95b$f1061380$14640a0a@tim>
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Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com

Hi gang:

Am I confused? these pictures seem to be of bungee gear, and I thought the
discussion is about spring gear. Alister, did you switch over to spring
gear after you had installed bungee?

I'm confused, but that is nothing new.

Help?

Tim
#438R

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Davis [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:52 AM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening


I've placed the photos Alister sent me on the following page...

http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/galle ... /page2.htm

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi all,

I have sent three photos of the solid block insert mod to Mike so that he
can do something constructive with them.

I apologise for the quality of the finished product, the photos were OK

but

perhaps my scanner is not the best quality!

If you look carefully you may be able to see the layout.

Cheers

Alister



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Don't forget that Mike can put them up here on dcsol.com, too !!

The tips will be very useful for Elite builders, but of no importance
to Super Rebel builders. The Super Rebel has a PROPER, very sturdy,
gear attachment scheme, with massive milled blocks tranferring the loads
to massive I-beams - a MUCH better design !

Sure would be nice if the Super Rebel design could be scaled-down
to replace the Elite. Just shorten the fuse & the wing, and voila !!
I'm sure it's not that simple, but it sure would make a rugged airplane

!!

With the Super's solid ribs, and a 30 ft. wing, the gross would likely be
at least 2,000 lb !! Enough to make up for the extra weight of the fuse

....

Of course, you'd need a bigger engine - but then, that's what most
seem to want anyway !!

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 03:54 PM 9/1/99 -0300, you wrote:

Alister

I think there is enough interest in what you have done on the gear

mounts

that

we should ask Wray to put up a section on his page rather than sending

the

photos etc to individuals. What do you & Wray think?

Dave R.
Elite #583


PS For my part, I am guessing this info will be of interest to Elite &

SR

builders as well as "normal" Rebels.



Kent Vandervelde wrote:

over

1

3/4")).

the

with

a

but

end,

AN3

is

to

carrythrough

in

'witness

the

mark'

the

the

them

to

fit

pull

relieved a

moved

up

5/16"

use

straddle

drilled,

not

said

who

has

starting

the

insert

applies

to

up

the

more

mine

to

this.

without

that

go

AN6?

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256

-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
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Message-ID: <004101bef972$87176d40$b11915cb@dialup.voyager.co.nz>
From: "Alister Yeoman" <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:49:37 +1200
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Hi Tim,

The three center photos are definitely spring gear, other bungee gear photos
have also been posted on that sight.

Cheers

Alister

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
To: 'Murphy Rebel Builders List' <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 6:04 AM
Subject: RE: spring gear strengthening

Hi gang:

Am I confused? these pictures seem to be of bungee gear, and I thought the
discussion is about spring gear. Alister, did you switch over to spring
gear after you had installed bungee?

I'm confused, but that is nothing new.

Help?

Tim
#438R

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Davis [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:52 AM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening


I've placed the photos Alister sent me on the following page...

http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/galle ... /page2.htm

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Alister Yeoman <yeoman@voyager.co.nz>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Hi all,

I have sent three photos of the solid block insert mod to Mike so that he
can do something constructive with them.

I apologise for the quality of the finished product, the photos were OK

but

perhaps my scanner is not the best quality!

If you look carefully you may be able to see the layout.

Cheers

Alister



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: spring gear strengthening

Don't forget that Mike can put them up here on dcsol.com, too !!

The tips will be very useful for Elite builders, but of no

importance

to Super Rebel builders. The Super Rebel has a PROPER, very sturdy,
gear attachment scheme, with massive milled blocks tranferring the loads
to massive I-beams - a MUCH better design !

Sure would be nice if the Super Rebel design could be scaled-down
to replace the Elite. Just shorten the fuse & the wing, and voila !!
I'm sure it's not that simple, but it sure would make a rugged airplane

!!

With the Super's solid ribs, and a 30 ft. wing, the gross would likely

be

at least 2,000 lb !! Enough to make up for the extra weight of the fuse

...

Of course, you'd need a bigger engine - but then, that's what most
seem to want anyway !!

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 03:54 PM 9/1/99 -0300, you wrote:

mounts

that

the

SR

over

1

3/4")).

the

with

a

but

the

end,

the

AN3

is

to

carrythrough

in

'witness

the

mark'

the

the

open

them

to

fit

pull

relieved a

moved

up

5/16"

use

straddle

drilled,

not

I

said

who

has

starting

the

insert

applies

to

up

the

more

mine

to

this.

without

that

go

the

AN6?

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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
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Archives located at:
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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
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