rebel flapreons-electric?
Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:46 am
Here's my 2c worth.
I did like bobp says, build it and fly it. But I was unhappy with the
slop so I designed and built an electric system. Didn't install it
though, listening to bob and Wayne and all, for 3 years.
Then one day at 50 ft final, (looking at some kids playing very near the
numbers too) the flap handle slipped out of the detente. NO FLAPS
from FULL FLAPS INSTANTLY. I instantly recovered the flaps, no
consequences. But then installed the electrics.
Some comments on my design: motor drive is from a GM car seat. 1 sec
gives 5 degrees. Indicator is at my eye on the upper door rail. Limit
switches on full reflex (only 7*) and full down 25*. Current limiter
switches on motor stall (automotive styling). Dirve moves the mixer
directly where the cable used to be. Hard stops on the mixer arm
travel. Manual overide by a knob on the output shaft of the drive.
(takes a while, but I can retract the flaps on drive failure if
necessaary). Switch beside the throttle. (Had to redesign to stop
confusion with the trim. The story being once on climb-out instead of
retracting flaps I trimmed nose down. Wondered why the barn was so tall
this time!!!).
One feature I don't have is a stop at '0' on retract. But I retract in
stages as I climb out. I elected to keep it simple. (as if electrifying
the flaps was simple).
I am happy with my setup. No problems so far, 75 hrs and 4 years on the
electrics.
Phil, R302
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I did like bobp says, build it and fly it. But I was unhappy with the
slop so I designed and built an electric system. Didn't install it
though, listening to bob and Wayne and all, for 3 years.
Then one day at 50 ft final, (looking at some kids playing very near the
numbers too) the flap handle slipped out of the detente. NO FLAPS
from FULL FLAPS INSTANTLY. I instantly recovered the flaps, no
consequences. But then installed the electrics.
Some comments on my design: motor drive is from a GM car seat. 1 sec
gives 5 degrees. Indicator is at my eye on the upper door rail. Limit
switches on full reflex (only 7*) and full down 25*. Current limiter
switches on motor stall (automotive styling). Dirve moves the mixer
directly where the cable used to be. Hard stops on the mixer arm
travel. Manual overide by a knob on the output shaft of the drive.
(takes a while, but I can retract the flaps on drive failure if
necessaary). Switch beside the throttle. (Had to redesign to stop
confusion with the trim. The story being once on climb-out instead of
retracting flaps I trimmed nose down. Wondered why the barn was so tall
this time!!!).
One feature I don't have is a stop at '0' on retract. But I retract in
stages as I climb out. I elected to keep it simple. (as if electrifying
the flaps was simple).
I am happy with my setup. No problems so far, 75 hrs and 4 years on the
electrics.
Phil, R302
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