The Murphy Builders Site

Mike,

Originally wanted to put the MP14 radial on my super rebel. Went over
everything with my tech counselor and decided not too. I really appreciate
what the first guys did to get flying. Being a small block chevy motor
gearhead, also looked into what you are doing. Nice, but still too much
weight. Not a big fan of Lycosaurs also. Going with a Mazda 20b turbo, 3
rotor, rotary engine.

Ordered a used motor from North Carolina for disassembly and overhaul
myself. $3000.

Going with 3mm Racing apex seals, Teflon Encased orings and viton oil
seals.
A turbo normalized system for 300 hp. Only two pounds of boost. Block is
built for a minimum of 450 hp.

Going with Tracys EC2 for ignition and fuel injection, his EM for engine
instrumentation, and his RD2B for a drive unit. The drive unit is left
handed at 2.17. It also keeps the thrustline correct.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/

TRW 3003 throttle body. Dual fuel pumps and filters.

The motor mount is from Jerry Hey, set up for float ops, but doesn't swing
out. $1200.

Will be mounting the oil and water radiators under the engine using K&M
for
airflow. Going with a Meziere water pump.

A prop from IVO, magnum electric.

Why????
Don't have to worry about hot starts when something goes wrong and have to
restart an engine for a plane on floats.
No preheat. No shock cooling. The block is basically idiot proof. No
valves
to burn up, or cranks to trash. Accessories will be where the problems are
going to be. No vacuum pump, going electric. Engine will run on auto/av
gas.
Lots of heat in the winter. Can run the engine at 300 hp all day if I
wanted
to. Unfortunately it will have the same fuel burn rate as a Lycosaurus.
Much
smoother, less vibratation. It sounds horrible tho, like a V-6 engine.

Flying 20bt's are weighing in at 450 lbs FFW, the block weighs 255 lbs.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt Super Rebel SR103





----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
To: Rebel List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Chevy engine mount

For those rare folks contemplating a Chevy for their Super Rebel or Moose

I

have uploaded two pictures of my engine mount under construction to the
SR/Moose-Engine section. I figure I owe it to you (and me) crazies that
would turn your backs on the ole reliable Lycosaurs to report the

following:

Chevy Rodeck aluminum block, Airflow Research heads, Lunati rotating
assembly (roller rockers and lifters), Edelbrock intake manifold, Holley

650

double pumper, PowerMaster lightweight starter, 100 amp chrome
alternator,
Sanderson headers. $15,000

Firewall Forward CAM-500 helical gear reduction unit. $12,500

IVO Prop Magnum airboat 84 inch 3-blade prop with electric pitch control

and

constant speed module. $2,800

Custom engine mount. $6,000

Miscellaneous custom parts. Adapter plate between Chevy flexplate and

PSRU

supplied torsion damper. $300.

Custom cowl. ???

Miscellaneous yet to be done. I.e., cooling and exhaust systems mostly.
???

Minus the cowl and the cooling/exhaust I've already spent $36,600.

Granted,

I went all out on the engine and bought probably the most expensive PSRU

on

the market. I imagine that you could build the engine for half what I

spent

and probably the same for the PSRU. However, there are few choices for
PSRUs that can handle the 425HP my Dyno program tells me I should get. I
think of it this way - How much would you spend for a Lycoming that can
produce 425HP? Wouldn't that be an IO-720 or something? How much would

you

spend for a rebuilt Lycoming IO-540 that can produce only 350HP (special

540

configuration)? How much would you spend for a Hartzell three blade
constant speed prop?

It's been challenging and a true "experiment". I have learned a lot. I
will have a very unique airplane. And if I get the performance the
engine
is capable of, I should get out of those small lakes pretty well. Just

the

engine and mount has cost me about a year and a half to put together.
And
I'm sure there are a lot more obstacles ahead. If I had it to do over

again

I would probably look more closely at companies like EPI, Inc.
(http://www.epi-eng.com/) that offer complete conversions including
mounts
and reduction units. Off the shelf LS1/LS6 conversions with the help of
someone like Brian Robertson (Chevy SeaBee) might be easier too. But I
don't regret building the engine with my own two hands and learning
everything I now know about this process now.

Mike Kimball
SR044

P.S. I have a nice set of Patriot angle head block hugger headers coated

by

Performance Coatings in Washington with their satin finish for sale.

Didn't

fit my angle plug heads from Airflow Research but should fit a standard
chevy angle plug head. One of those oops that keeps setting me back. I
still had to cut the ends off my Sanderson headers to add an extension on
the collector to miss my aluminum engine mount brackets. What next?




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