The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

For those rare folks contemplating a Chevy for their Super Rebel or Moose I
have uploaded two pictures of my engine mount under construction to the
SR/Moose-Engine section. I figure I owe it to you (and me) crazies that
would turn your backs on the ole reliable Lycosaurs to report the following:

Chevy Rodeck aluminum block, Airflow Research heads, Lunati rotating
assembly (roller rockers and lifters), Edelbrock intake manifold, Holley 650
double pumper, PowerMaster lightweight starter, 100 amp chrome alternator,
Sanderson headers. $15,000

Firewall Forward CAM-500 helical gear reduction unit. $12,500

IVO Prop Magnum airboat 84 inch 3-blade prop with electric pitch control and
constant speed module. $2,800

Custom engine mount. $6,000

Miscellaneous custom parts. Adapter plate between Chevy flexplate and PSRU
supplied torsion damper. $300.

Custom cowl. ???

Miscellaneous yet to be done. I.e., cooling and exhaust systems mostly.
???

Minus the cowl and the cooling/exhaust I've already spent $36,600. Granted,
I went all out on the engine and bought probably the most expensive PSRU on
the market. I imagine that you could build the engine for half what I spent
and probably the same for the PSRU. However, there are few choices for
PSRUs that can handle the 425HP my Dyno program tells me I should get. I
think of it this way - How much would you spend for a Lycoming that can
produce 425HP? Wouldn't that be an IO-720 or something? How much would you
spend for a rebuilt Lycoming IO-540 that can produce only 350HP (special 540
configuration)? How much would you spend for a Hartzell three blade
constant speed prop?

It's been challenging and a true "experiment". I have learned a lot. I
will have a very unique airplane. And if I get the performance the engine
is capable of, I should get out of those small lakes pretty well. Just the
engine and mount has cost me about a year and a half to put together. And
I'm sure there are a lot more obstacles ahead. If I had it to do over again
I would probably look more closely at companies like EPI, Inc.
(http://www.epi-eng.com/) that offer complete conversions including mounts
and reduction units. Off the shelf LS1/LS6 conversions with the help of
someone like Brian Robertson (Chevy SeaBee) might be easier too. But I
don't regret building the engine with my own two hands and learning
everything I now know about this process now.

Mike Kimball
SR044

P.S. I have a nice set of Patriot angle head block hugger headers coated by
Performance Coatings in Washington with their satin finish for sale. Didn't
fit my angle plug heads from Airflow Research but should fit a standard
chevy angle plug head. One of those oops that keeps setting me back. I
still had to cut the ends off my Sanderson headers to add an extension on
the collector to miss my aluminum engine mount brackets. What next?

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

One thing that I might add that Mike didn't mention about his mount... he
may have in the past, but I don't remember. The mount is designed so that
you can pull 2 bolts on either side of the mount and swing it out. This
will make getting to the rear (front) of the engine and firewall very easy.
Really neat design.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: "Rebel List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 12:54 PM
Subject: Chevy engine mount

For those rare folks contemplating a Chevy for their Super Rebel or Moose
I
have uploaded two pictures of my engine mount under construction to the
SR/Moose-Engine section. I figure I owe it to you (and me) crazies that
would turn your backs on the ole reliable Lycosaurs to report the
following:

Chevy Rodeck aluminum block, Airflow Research heads, Lunati rotating
assembly (roller rockers and lifters), Edelbrock intake manifold, Holley
650
double pumper, PowerMaster lightweight starter, 100 amp chrome alternator,
Sanderson headers. $15,000

Firewall Forward CAM-500 helical gear reduction unit. $12,500

IVO Prop Magnum airboat 84 inch 3-blade prop with electric pitch control
and
constant speed module. $2,800

Custom engine mount. $6,000

Miscellaneous custom parts. Adapter plate between Chevy flexplate and
PSRU
supplied torsion damper. $300.

Custom cowl. ???

Miscellaneous yet to be done. I.e., cooling and exhaust systems mostly.
???

Minus the cowl and the cooling/exhaust I've already spent $36,600.
Granted,
I went all out on the engine and bought probably the most expensive PSRU
on
the market. I imagine that you could build the engine for half what I
spent
and probably the same for the PSRU. However, there are few choices for
PSRUs that can handle the 425HP my Dyno program tells me I should get. I
think of it this way - How much would you spend for a Lycoming that can
produce 425HP? Wouldn't that be an IO-720 or something? How much would
you
spend for a rebuilt Lycoming IO-540 that can produce only 350HP (special
540
configuration)? How much would you spend for a Hartzell three blade
constant speed prop?

It's been challenging and a true "experiment". I have learned a lot. I
will have a very unique airplane. And if I get the performance the engine
is capable of, I should get out of those small lakes pretty well. Just
the
engine and mount has cost me about a year and a half to put together. And
I'm sure there are a lot more obstacles ahead. If I had it to do over
again
I would probably look more closely at companies like EPI, Inc.
(http://www.epi-eng.com/) that offer complete conversions including mounts
and reduction units. Off the shelf LS1/LS6 conversions with the help of
someone like Brian Robertson (Chevy SeaBee) might be easier too. But I
don't regret building the engine with my own two hands and learning
everything I now know about this process now.

Mike Kimball
SR044

P.S. I have a nice set of Patriot angle head block hugger headers coated
by
Performance Coatings in Washington with their satin finish for sale.
Didn't
fit my angle plug heads from Airflow Research but should fit a standard
chevy angle plug head. One of those oops that keeps setting me back. I
still had to cut the ends off my Sanderson headers to add an extension on
the collector to miss my aluminum engine mount brackets. What next?

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Mike
Nice pics.
Since you asked - the next thing for me was arranging the cooling and
exhaust such that they didn't interfere with each other.
As a quick eyeball comment, it looks like a tube from the top firewall
mounting point to the rear engine pickup point might be worth
considering. Unless there is more there that I can't see, engine weight
is going to try to twist that rear mount point downward and the load
won't transfer evenly to the other side especially with engine torque added.
Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

snip

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Mike,

Originally wanted to put the MP14 radial on my super rebel. Went over
everything with my tech counselor and decided not too. I really appreciate
what the first guys did to get flying. Being a small block chevy motor
gearhead, also looked into what you are doing. Nice, but still too much
weight. Not a big fan of Lycosaurs also. Going with a Mazda 20b turbo, 3
rotor, rotary engine.

Ordered a used motor from North Carolina for disassembly and overhaul
myself. $3000.

Going with 3mm Racing apex seals, Teflon Encased orings and viton oil seals.
A turbo normalized system for 300 hp. Only two pounds of boost. Block is
built for a minimum of 450 hp.

Going with Tracys EC2 for ignition and fuel injection, his EM for engine
instrumentation, and his RD2B for a drive unit. The drive unit is left
handed at 2.17. It also keeps the thrustline correct.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/

TRW 3003 throttle body. Dual fuel pumps and filters.

The motor mount is from Jerry Hey, set up for float ops, but doesn't swing
out. $1200.

Will be mounting the oil and water radiators under the engine using K&M for
airflow. Going with a Meziere water pump.

A prop from IVO, magnum electric.

Why????
Don't have to worry about hot starts when something goes wrong and have to
restart an engine for a plane on floats.
No preheat. No shock cooling. The block is basically idiot proof. No valves
to burn up, or cranks to trash. Accessories will be where the problems are
going to be. No vacuum pump, going electric. Engine will run on auto/av gas.
Lots of heat in the winter. Can run the engine at 300 hp all day if I wanted
to. Unfortunately it will have the same fuel burn rate as a Lycosaurus. Much
smoother, less vibratation. It sounds horrible tho, like a V-6 engine.

Flying 20bt's are weighing in at 450 lbs FFW, the block weighs 255 lbs.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt Super Rebel SR103

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
To: Rebel List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Chevy engine mount

For those rare folks contemplating a Chevy for their Super Rebel or Moose

I

have uploaded two pictures of my engine mount under construction to the
SR/Moose-Engine section. I figure I owe it to you (and me) crazies that
would turn your backs on the ole reliable Lycosaurs to report the

following:

Chevy Rodeck aluminum block, Airflow Research heads, Lunati rotating
assembly (roller rockers and lifters), Edelbrock intake manifold, Holley

650

double pumper, PowerMaster lightweight starter, 100 amp chrome alternator,
Sanderson headers. $15,000

Firewall Forward CAM-500 helical gear reduction unit. $12,500

IVO Prop Magnum airboat 84 inch 3-blade prop with electric pitch control

and

constant speed module. $2,800

Custom engine mount. $6,000

Miscellaneous custom parts. Adapter plate between Chevy flexplate and

PSRU

supplied torsion damper. $300.

Custom cowl. ???

Miscellaneous yet to be done. I.e., cooling and exhaust systems mostly.
???

Minus the cowl and the cooling/exhaust I've already spent $36,600.

Granted,

I went all out on the engine and bought probably the most expensive PSRU

on

the market. I imagine that you could build the engine for half what I

spent

and probably the same for the PSRU. However, there are few choices for
PSRUs that can handle the 425HP my Dyno program tells me I should get. I
think of it this way - How much would you spend for a Lycoming that can
produce 425HP? Wouldn't that be an IO-720 or something? How much would

you

spend for a rebuilt Lycoming IO-540 that can produce only 350HP (special

540

configuration)? How much would you spend for a Hartzell three blade
constant speed prop?

It's been challenging and a true "experiment". I have learned a lot. I
will have a very unique airplane. And if I get the performance the engine
is capable of, I should get out of those small lakes pretty well. Just

the

engine and mount has cost me about a year and a half to put together. And
I'm sure there are a lot more obstacles ahead. If I had it to do over

again

I would probably look more closely at companies like EPI, Inc.
(http://www.epi-eng.com/) that offer complete conversions including mounts
and reduction units. Off the shelf LS1/LS6 conversions with the help of
someone like Brian Robertson (Chevy SeaBee) might be easier too. But I
don't regret building the engine with my own two hands and learning
everything I now know about this process now.

Mike Kimball
SR044

P.S. I have a nice set of Patriot angle head block hugger headers coated

by

Performance Coatings in Washington with their satin finish for sale.

Didn't

fit my angle plug heads from Airflow Research but should fit a standard
chevy angle plug head. One of those oops that keeps setting me back. I
still had to cut the ends off my Sanderson headers to add an extension on
the collector to miss my aluminum engine mount brackets. What next?

-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Thanks for your comment Ken. The guy that's building my mount had the tube
that goes from the top firewall point going to the rear engine mounting
point originally, but he decided to move it to where you see it now. Here's
his explanation:

We made one change to the way we made the mount over the initial plan. The
tube running from the top firewall point to the rear mount now goes to the
cluster joint below the rear engine mount rather than to the rear engine
mount point as most of the example mounts we saw pictures of did. See note
on right side 2 photo. Doing the tube this way puts it much more in tension
than it would be going to the rear engine mount point where there would be
much more bending load on it.

I'll discuss your concern with him. He's always open to suggestions. I
know he would be very interested in what you think about his decision and so
would I. Anyone else on the list as well. What a priceless resource!

Mike
SR044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

Mike
Nice pics.
Since you asked - the next thing for me was arranging the cooling and
exhaust such that they didn't interfere with each other.
As a quick eyeball comment, it looks like a tube from the top firewall
mounting point to the rear engine pickup point might be worth
considering. Unless there is more there that I can't see, engine weight
is going to try to twist that rear mount point downward and the load
won't transfer evenly to the other side especially with engine torque added.
Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

snip

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Mike,

There are two rotary web rings out there. You will get about the same email
as you do here from each one. The first is :
rotaryeng@earthlink.net These guys are engineers and number crunchers and
builders also.

The second is flyrotary@lancaironline.net These guys are a bunch of wrenchs
who are also flying. I would call Tracy Crook at
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/. Tell him what you would like to do. Every
one knows most of the people on both sites. Good people. I don't really pay
alot of attention to the 2 rotor info. There are alot more rotary aircraft
out there flying than you would think. I live close to Oshkosh, had 30
people over at the house one nite just to shoot the bull. There are alot at
the annual fly in at Tracy's.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt

----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Michael <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 7:35 AM
Subject: RE: Chevy engine mount

barney

i am thinking of 13b rotary for my rebel, we will have to keep in touch

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 8:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

Mike,

Fred makes a great motor mount. Jerry's had more room for the turbo on

the

side. The only reason.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt

----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Michael <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: Chevy engine mount

barney

have you considered engine mount from fred at conversion concepts, very
strong and simply design
http://www.conversionconcepts.com/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

snip

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

barney

i am thinking of 13b rotary for my rebel, we will have to keep in touch

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 8:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

Mike,

Fred makes a great motor mount. Jerry's had more room for the turbo on the
side. The only reason.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt

----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Michael <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: Chevy engine mount

barney

have you considered engine mount from fred at conversion concepts, very
strong and simply design
http://www.conversionconcepts.com/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

snip

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confidential and/or privileged. If you are not the intended recipient
of this message you are hereby notified that you must not disseminate,
copy or take any action with respect to it.

If you have received this message in error please notify
HATCH immediately via mailto:MailAdmin@hatch.ca.

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Mike

Actually I like to see 3 tubes go from the firewall to the rear engine
pickup so that that point is solid in all 3 planes and the tubes are in
straight compression or tension with no bending or twisting. It looks
like you may have room to also do that which would be marvelous. As per
a Lycoming mount, that third tube could be smaller diameter and would
remove any concern about the strength of that cluster point.

But lets concentrate on what you have. I can't tell if you have a
horizontal tube left to right between the two rear engine mount points
but I imagine you do otherwise there will be lots of movement as
sideways forces flex the rubber mounts. (And the forces have to
transfer through the rubber mounts and across the engine block to resist
movement in the third plane - and put significant bending loads on the
tubes). Tubes excel at resisting tension and compression and are very
weak when bending loads are applied. A good engine mount is designed to
have no bending loads on the tubes which makes it strong and light. Same
as a good tube fuselage. Since you only have two tubes from the firewall
to the engine mount in your original design, I can see why he wanted
another tube to the cluster but I don't see why the original tube was
removed. I would really encourage you to add that tube back in. You
should have something triangulated there to hold downward forces on that
rear engine pickup point. It would make the mount several times stronger
in my opinion. The tube to the cluster point could remain as is or it
could be downsized to a smaller diameter.

The problem with it now is that weight on the rear engine pickup will
try to rotate it downward while pushing out on that cluster. Several
bending loads and weak. It would be hugely stronger to put the tube back
in from the top firewall point to the rear engine pickup. Sorry if I
sound heavy handed and I know I tend to the conservative side but I am
serious when I say it will make the mount several times stronger.

Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

Thanks for your comment Ken. The guy that's building my mount had the tube
that goes from the top firewall point going to the rear engine mounting
point originally, but he decided to move it to where you see it now. Here's
his explanation:

We made one change to the way we made the mount over the initial plan. The
tube running from the top firewall point to the rear mount now goes to the
cluster joint below the rear engine mount rather than to the rear engine
mount point as most of the example mounts we saw pictures of did. See note
on right side 2 photo. Doing the tube this way puts it much more in tension
than it would be going to the rear engine mount point where there would be
much more bending load on it.

I'll discuss your concern with him. He's always open to suggestions. I
know he would be very interested in what you think about his decision and so
would I. Anyone else on the list as well. What a priceless resource!

Mike
SR044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:03 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

Mike
Nice pics.
Since you asked - the next thing for me was arranging the cooling and
exhaust such that they didn't interfere with each other.
As a quick eyeball comment, it looks like a tube from the top firewall
mounting point to the rear engine pickup point might be worth
considering. Unless there is more there that I can't see, engine weight
is going to try to twist that rear mount point downward and the load
won't transfer evenly to the other side especially with engine torque added.
Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

snip

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

barney

have you considered engine mount from fred at conversion concepts, very
strong and simply design
http://www.conversionconcepts.com/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

Mike,

Originally wanted to put the MP14 radial on my super rebel. Went over
everything with my tech counselor and decided not too. I really appreciate
what the first guys did to get flying. Being a small block chevy motor
gearhead, also looked into what you are doing. Nice, but still too much
weight. Not a big fan of Lycosaurs also. Going with a Mazda 20b turbo, 3
rotor, rotary engine.

Ordered a used motor from North Carolina for disassembly and overhaul
myself. $3000.

Going with 3mm Racing apex seals, Teflon Encased orings and viton oil seals.
A turbo normalized system for 300 hp. Only two pounds of boost. Block is
built for a minimum of 450 hp.

Going with Tracys EC2 for ignition and fuel injection, his EM for engine
instrumentation, and his RD2B for a drive unit. The drive unit is left
handed at 2.17. It also keeps the thrustline correct.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/

TRW 3003 throttle body. Dual fuel pumps and filters.

The motor mount is from Jerry Hey, set up for float ops, but doesn't swing
out. $1200.

Will be mounting the oil and water radiators under the engine using K&M for
airflow. Going with a Meziere water pump.

A prop from IVO, magnum electric.

Why????
Don't have to worry about hot starts when something goes wrong and have to
restart an engine for a plane on floats.
No preheat. No shock cooling. The block is basically idiot proof. No valves
to burn up, or cranks to trash. Accessories will be where the problems are
going to be. No vacuum pump, going electric. Engine will run on auto/av gas.
Lots of heat in the winter. Can run the engine at 300 hp all day if I wanted
to. Unfortunately it will have the same fuel burn rate as a Lycosaurus. Much
smoother, less vibratation. It sounds horrible tho, like a V-6 engine.

Flying 20bt's are weighing in at 450 lbs FFW, the block weighs 255 lbs.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt Super Rebel SR103

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>
To: Rebel List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Chevy engine mount

For those rare folks contemplating a Chevy for their Super Rebel or Moose

I

have uploaded two pictures of my engine mount under construction to the
SR/Moose-Engine section. I figure I owe it to you (and me) crazies that
would turn your backs on the ole reliable Lycosaurs to report the

following:

Chevy Rodeck aluminum block, Airflow Research heads, Lunati rotating
assembly (roller rockers and lifters), Edelbrock intake manifold, Holley

650

double pumper, PowerMaster lightweight starter, 100 amp chrome alternator,
Sanderson headers. $15,000

Firewall Forward CAM-500 helical gear reduction unit. $12,500

IVO Prop Magnum airboat 84 inch 3-blade prop with electric pitch control

and

constant speed module. $2,800

Custom engine mount. $6,000

Miscellaneous custom parts. Adapter plate between Chevy flexplate and

PSRU

supplied torsion damper. $300.

Custom cowl. ???

Miscellaneous yet to be done. I.e., cooling and exhaust systems mostly.
???

Minus the cowl and the cooling/exhaust I've already spent $36,600.

Granted,

I went all out on the engine and bought probably the most expensive PSRU

on

the market. I imagine that you could build the engine for half what I

spent

and probably the same for the PSRU. However, there are few choices for
PSRUs that can handle the 425HP my Dyno program tells me I should get. I
think of it this way - How much would you spend for a Lycoming that can
produce 425HP? Wouldn't that be an IO-720 or something? How much would

you

spend for a rebuilt Lycoming IO-540 that can produce only 350HP (special

540

configuration)? How much would you spend for a Hartzell three blade
constant speed prop?

It's been challenging and a true "experiment". I have learned a lot. I
will have a very unique airplane. And if I get the performance the engine
is capable of, I should get out of those small lakes pretty well. Just

the

engine and mount has cost me about a year and a half to put together. And
I'm sure there are a lot more obstacles ahead. If I had it to do over

again

I would probably look more closely at companies like EPI, Inc.
(http://www.epi-eng.com/) that offer complete conversions including mounts
and reduction units. Off the shelf LS1/LS6 conversions with the help of
someone like Brian Robertson (Chevy SeaBee) might be easier too. But I
don't regret building the engine with my own two hands and learning
everything I now know about this process now.

Mike Kimball
SR044

P.S. I have a nice set of Patriot angle head block hugger headers coated

by

Performance Coatings in Washington with their satin finish for sale.

Didn't

fit my angle plug heads from Airflow Research but should fit a standard
chevy angle plug head. One of those oops that keeps setting me back. I
still had to cut the ends off my Sanderson headers to add an extension on
the collector to miss my aluminum engine mount brackets. What next?

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:40 am**

Mike,

Fred makes a great motor mount. Jerry's had more room for the turbo on the
side. The only reason.

Barny
MGDQ 20bt

----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Michael <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: Chevy engine mount

barney

have you considered engine mount from fred at conversion concepts, very
strong and simply design
http://www.conversionconcepts.com/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: Barnhart [mailto:dsbarno@vbe.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 10:34 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Chevy engine mount

snip

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:49 am**

I just uploaded 7 pictures of my completed engine mount. After performing a
structure analysis it was determined that ~40% of a downward force exerted
on the rear engine mounts would be redirected as an outward force on the
lower horizontal tubes going from the lower firewall mount points to the
front engine mounts. Therefore, two additional tubes were added in tension
from the lower cross point to the lower tube in question.

I just finished putting my fuselage on it's main gear. Dang, it sure sits
higher than I remember. I wonder how much the weight of the engine will
bring it down? I put it on it's gear thinking that it would be easier to
work on the cowl, but now I'm not so sure.

Powder coating of the mount is next, then tube oil in the tubes sealed up
with tank rivets. Then get it on the firewall and start puzzling out
cooling and cowling.

Mike

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:49 am**

Mike
Looking good.
If it is like a Rebel, put some weight in the tail before you raise the
tail to work on the cowl ;)
Ken

Mike Kimball wrote:

I just uploaded 7 pictures of my completed engine mount. After performing a
structure analysis it was determined that ~40% of a downward force exerted
on the rear engine mounts would be redirected as an outward force on the
lower horizontal tubes going from the lower firewall mount points to the
front engine mounts. Therefore, two additional tubes were added in tension
from the lower cross point to the lower tube in question.

I just finished putting my fuselage on it's main gear. Dang, it sure sits
higher than I remember. I wonder how much the weight of the engine will
bring it down? I put it on it's gear thinking that it would be easier to
work on the cowl, but now I'm not so sure.

Powder coating of the mount is next, then tube oil in the tubes sealed up
with tank rivets. Then get it on the firewall and start puzzling out
cooling and cowling.

Mike

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