The Murphy Builders Site

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Ryan Amendala wrote:

All,

Just wanted to say hi and get a feel for this group.

Good to see another builder in the Northwest. I am in Sandpoint Idaho.
If you are ever in this neck of the woods let me know and we will meet.
Take lots of pictures of other peoples projects when you get the chance,
they will answer a million questions just looking at them. Good choice,
you will love the airplane.

--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/

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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Brian Cross <rebelair@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: New Builder
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Hi Dave!

Are you giving out 'tips' now according to your email? (Just kidding).

I was wondering what difference in weight you found between the standard
tips vs. the Kevlar types you did for Dave Bangle?

Best Regards

Brian #328R




At 06:42 PM 13/08/99 -0700, you wrote:

Ryan & Brian Amendala,

Congradulations, you purchaced a top quality kit. You will enjoy the
whole process of building and then flying. This web site will give you
lots of info and tips. Don't be timid. Ask lots of questions as there
are plenty of people to give assistance. Check out the local builders
in your area.

I'm not going to do a sales pitch to you, I just wanted to congratulate
you.

Dave Fife
3D Composite Aircraft Parts, Inc.



--- Ryan Amendala <longpup@hotmail.com> wrote:

All,

Just wanted to say hi and get a feel for this group.
My cousin and I just
purchased a Rebel (Kit #669) at Oshkosh. We take
delivery in September but
are gearing up RIGHT NOW and will appreciate any
tips/hints that people have
shared. I am looking forward to learning from past
experiences.

BTW we are located in Olympia, WA

Ryan/Brian Amendala


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Hello All,

My name is Scott Hibbs. I just purchased Rebel 300R (got it home
yesterday). A friend of mine finished 1/2 of it and he did an excellent
job. I hope to become an active member of this list so I thought I'd
introduce myself and the airplane. I got lucky and received an A&P
through practical experience restoring old planes but I have not used it
in the last 6 years. I live in Vancouver, WA and my wife is very
excited about our plane.

The Rebel has the following mods either planned or already finished:
140 hp LOM, Warp Drive 3 blade square tip, firewall 3" shorter, 2
witches hat pieces (in the shape of an X) between the upper and lower
mounts-but no cross piece between the two top mounts, the corner wrap
skins (behind the firewall) are all 1 size thicker, the Matco brake
cylinders are "gold" colored, bolts on the landing gear slide tubes (I
have bungee gear) are one size larger, I'll put in all 3 sets of
skylights, I kinda of planned to cover the lower door with lexan (but am
concerned it might be much colder), the elevator trim is built to be
manual, the back of the fuselage will have the floor, the tail spring is
composite and the tailwheel kicks out.

I am excited about building and flying this plane. As you read through
the description above, do any of you see problems or items I should
watch?

Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
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I took the plunge today and ordered a Rebel tail kit. I don't mind telling you I have a lot of apprehension about whether or not I can make this dream come true. However, my attitude is one that I've seen stated several times on this list-'Keep at it. It is worth it'.

Probably the biggest factor in my decision was the positive attitude of the builders and owners, as expressed on this list, for the Rebel kit, the Rebel aircraft, and for Murphy Aircraft.

Thanks,
Roger
(Eugene, OR USA)

Roger
One piece at a time and they all add up to be an airplane. A damn GOOD one at
that.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D
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Congratulations, Roger !! Welcome to the group - of the happiest kit
builders (and fliers) in the world !!! :-)

.....bobp

Hope you didn't go for any of those options .... ;-)

The Murphy 'basic tool kit' is a "Really Good Idea"(tm), though !!! :-)
All you need then is a bunch more clecoes ...

You CAN do it !! And you'll LOVE the finished Rebel !!

-------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------------
At 03:48 PM 1/19/00 -0800, you wrote:

I took the plunge today and ordered a Rebel tail kit. I don't mind telling

you I have a lot of apprehension about whether or not I can make this dream
come true. However, my attitude is one that I've seen stated several times
on this list-'Keep at it. It is worth it'.

Probably the biggest factor in my decision was the positive attitude of the

builders and owners, as expressed on this list, for the Rebel kit, the Rebel
aircraft, and for Murphy Aircraft.

Thanks,
Roger
(Eugene, OR USA)


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<DIV><FONT size=2>I took the plunge today and ordered a Rebel tail kit. I

don't

mind telling you I have a lot of apprehension about whether or not I can make
this dream come true. However, my attitude is one that I've seen stated

several

times on this list-'Keep at it. It is worth it'.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Probably the biggest factor in my decision was the positive
attitude of the builders and owners, as expressed on this list, for the Rebel
kit, the Rebel aircraft, and for Murphy Aircraft.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Roger</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>(Eugene, OR USA)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Hi Bob,
Just thought I'd pass along a little engine tidbit. I just came acrossed
2 o-320H2ad engine cores. It was also stated they had a "T" designation which
is supposed to be a later model.(I"m not sure about that) They were both
running when remove from aircraft. They have logs but I don't know the
numbers. The A+I that owned them passed away and friends are helping clear
out his hanger. Probably can be bought for around 3000 US. They had all the
accessories still bolted on. Any greater intrest and I'll either put them in
touch with the family or get the info.
Keep at it, It's worth it Curt N97MR
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murphy-rebel@dcsol.com wrote:
the rebel is a good kit, but you will never get it finished if you read all these emails!!

terry thomason rebel #46





I took the plunge today and ordered a Rebel tail kit. I don't
mind telling you I have a lot of apprehension about whether or not I can make
this dream come true. However, my attitude is one that I've seen stated several
times on this list-'Keep at it. It is worth it'.

Thanks for all the positive encouragement!

With regard to basic tools, Bob Patterson wrote:

"The Murphy 'basic tool kit' is a "Really Good Idea"(tm), though !!!
:-)
All you need then is a bunch more clecoes ..."

I wasn't going to start out with a pneumatic riveter which is part of the
Murphy Basic kit, since I don't yet own an air compressor. I realize
pneumatic (or even hydraulic) would probably make things a lot easier, but
$$$ are my concern at this point, so thot I would start with a hand operated
riveter and go pneumatic later. Does anyone have any recommendations for a
particular brand and source?

Also what about drills bits? High speed steel / Cobalt / or other? Split
point? Anyone with recommendations for a particular type and source?
Companies who have given good service, good products, at reasonable prices?

Any ideas or comments on other tools/items I may need to get started?

Thanks again,
Roger



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You can get started on the tail section with a manual riveter - almost
any kind will do. The better quality ones have tips that fit the rivet
mandrels tightly. The "Taiwan" quality are a bit sloppy - you will end up
pulling up a bit of the center of the rivet each time ! This is painful,
and extra work to remove. Just buying better tips solves this one !

You don't need much of a compressor for rivetting - as long as you
get a LARGE tank :-) Drilling is another matter - and high speed
(about 5 or 6,000 rpm) air drills are very nice. Light, and neat -
require less deburring, according to some ...

The important thing with drill bits is - don't try to keep using a
dull one !! The pennies saved will make for HOURS of extra work deburring,
and a poorer job. Just throw 'em away !! (Several builders have reported
that the small #8 & #11 bits just don't resharpen well !)

You could order the basic kit without the pneumatic puller - it does
include a hand puller and cleco pliers, as well as clecos, and some of
the long drill bits needed .....

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 06:23 PM 1/21/00 -0800, you wrote:

Thanks for all the positive encouragement!

With regard to basic tools, Bob Patterson wrote:

"The Murphy 'basic tool kit' is a "Really Good Idea"(tm), though !!!
:-)
All you need then is a bunch more clecoes ..."

I wasn't going to start out with a pneumatic riveter which is part of the
Murphy Basic kit, since I don't yet own an air compressor. I realize
pneumatic (or even hydraulic) would probably make things a lot easier, but
$$$ are my concern at this point, so thot I would start with a hand operated
riveter and go pneumatic later. Does anyone have any recommendations for a
particular brand and source?

Also what about drills bits? High speed steel / Cobalt / or other? Split
point? Anyone with recommendations for a particular type and source?
Companies who have given good service, good products, at reasonable prices?

Any ideas or comments on other tools/items I may need to get started?

Thanks again,
Roger



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Roger

I think you would be happy with any small air compressor, even with a 5 gallon
tank, for the rivet puller. The puller is essential once you get past the tail
feathers. I use a cheap imported (under $50. on sale) puller from Princess Auto
or JC.Whitney otherwise I can't sleep at night from the repetitive strain of the
manual puller.

As Bob said an air drill is an entirely different matter though. For that you
need the large tank and compressor. Turns out that the cfm rating of the drill
is based on something like 35% running time so a drill rated at 4 cfm @ 90 psi
can easilly draw more than 9 cfm when you are drilling out skins. Horse power
ratings are meaningless these days so look at the cfm or scfm rating at 90 psi
if you are going to use an air drill.

Ken

You don't need much of a compressor for rivetting - as long as you
get a LARGE tank :-) Drilling is another matter - and high speed

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Make sure that the drill has a trigger control!! So that you can just
tickle the trigger for very slow speed and the harder you pull the trigger
the higher the RPM's. You won't be happy with a pressure reducer that
screws onto the air inlet of your drill. You might also try a 2ft swivel
whip on your drill and pneumatic puller, they are lighter and so much more
maneuverable.
Another $5.00 US item that will pay for itself is three hose adapter on
the end of your air hose (Supply line) install quick disconnect couplings
on it and all of your air tools. You will find it easier to drag one hose
inside and use two tools than always changing and haveing two hoses inside
the work area.

At 09:51 AM 1/22/00 -0500, you wrote:

Roger

I think you would be happy with any small air compressor, even with a 5

gallon

tank, for the rivet puller. The puller is essential once you get past the

tail

feathers. I use a cheap imported (under $50. on sale) puller from Princess

Auto

or JC.Whitney otherwise I can't sleep at night from the repetitive strain

of the

manual puller.

As Bob said an air drill is an entirely different matter though. For that you
need the large tank and compressor. Turns out that the cfm rating of the

drill

is based on something like 35% running time so a drill rated at 4 cfm @ 90

psi

can easilly draw more than 9 cfm when you are drilling out skins. Horse power
ratings are meaningless these days so look at the cfm or scfm rating at 90

psi

if you are going to use an air drill.

Ken

You don't need much of a compressor for rivetting - as long as you
get a LARGE tank :-) Drilling is another matter - and high speed

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greyghost@powernet.net
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Roger,

Read your note and I too had concerns about to "go or not go" in ordering my
Rebel Kit.

We ordered the complete kit (partner and myself - partner earlier built an
RV-6). We purchased a used 320 engine from a Dallas Aircraft Salvage Dealer -
AP Certified!

Just a quick note that it is extremely important to get a good inventory
system in place from day one - easy to do but it has to be detailed as you
will be looking for compenents if your inventory is not well documented and
placed properly.

One word of caution, manual directions may say "Takes 4 Hours To Build" -
in reality it will take twice or in some cases as a new builder, three times
the manual stated times.

We have build the ailerons / flaperons and just started the elevators and
tail section {:>)!

Welcome aboard and perhaps at some point we can compare notes.

John Curtis
Warrenton, Virginia
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Hello,

I recently joined this list and just want to introduce
myself and thank Mike Davis for providing this
wonderful service!

My name is Scott Collier, Elite # 688, a first-time
builder. I chose the Elite based mostly on experience
with my Aeronca Chief: better high-end performance,
good low-end numbers, much more room and range and
still lots of fun to fly. Plus I get the experience
and knowledge gained through building it.

I had my pre-close inspection for the horizontal
stabilizer by an EAA Technical Counselor in September
but have been stymied since then by problems with my
pneumatic riveter, the 'Garage-Pro' supplied in the
basic tool kit from MAM (has anyone else had problems
with this riveter?), as well as 'Rivets Unlimited'
rivets (filed many protruding mandrels down until I
e-mailed MAM technical support and asked them what I
was doing wrong and learned about the rivet exchange
policy). But overall my building has been a very
enjoyable experience and I am constantly learning as I
go.

Scott Collier

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Welcome to the list Scott. If you're more specific with your riveter
problems theres likely someone that can help you. Where are you located?
Drew Dalgleish

At 01:37 PM 12/16/00 -0800, you wrote:

Hello,

I recently joined this list and just want to introduce
myself and thank Mike Davis for providing this
wonderful service!

My name is Scott Collier, Elite # 688, a first-time
builder. I chose the Elite based mostly on experience
with my Aeronca Chief: better high-end performance,
good low-end numbers, much more room and range and
still lots of fun to fly. Plus I get the experience
and knowledge gained through building it.

I had my pre-close inspection for the horizontal
stabilizer by an EAA Technical Counselor in September
but have been stymied since then by problems with my
pneumatic riveter, the 'Garage-Pro' supplied in the
basic tool kit from MAM (has anyone else had problems
with this riveter?), as well as 'Rivets Unlimited'
rivets (filed many protruding mandrels down until I
e-mailed MAM technical support and asked them what I
was doing wrong and learned about the rivet exchange
policy). But overall my building has been a very
enjoyable experience and I am constantly learning as I
go.

Scott Collier

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