The Murphy Builders Site

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Date: Fri, 09 Jul 1999 18:30:15 -0700
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Subject: cowl
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I have been struggling for two weeks to get my original alum. cowl to
fit with the 0-290. The problem was it was not all that well made in the
first place. I am just not happy with it. Does any one have any
suggestions for a good fiberglass cowl? I understand that the Murphy
speed cowl needs to be modified with some installations.
Rich

I need advise on how others have fitted the fiberglass cowling. I have aligned and fitted the top half, removed it and fitted the bottom half. My dilemma is how to cut both top and bottom halves to get a clean butt seam. My past experiences with fiberglass has been a poor experience, with lumps, bumps and crooked cuts. Fear has set in and staring at the problem for two weeks has not helped. I'm not sure of which tools to use or how to approach the task. I just don't want to screw up.

Al Paxhia, SR26

Hi Al,
I remember getting to the point your at with the same feelings. Then a friend made a comment that really helped. If the gap between the two halves is the same, it can wider than if the gap changes and you try to keep it extremely close.
In other words, When you try and have them perfect but it turns out to be uneven, it will still look very professional when you straighten out the bumps.
Now the how to (IMHO).
I found that if you can keep triming until they get close enough to run a very fine tooth blade between them both at the same time, that will keep them matching nicely. Actually what I used was a router with a 1/8 straight bit and a straight edge to guide it with lots of clamps and going very slowly. It could be done with the proper saw blade and a skill saw, or a dremel tool with it's small cutting blades, but they are harder to guide straight. One other method is to use a hacksaw blade between the two halves to even out the discrepancies. The kerf of the blade will help even out the gap. It's just another one of those places that appears harder than it really is.
Goood luck, and keep at it, it's worth it!
Curt N97MR
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Hi again Al,
I should have reread your e-mail befor I sent mine, so I'll add one other item.
I set up a point on the fusalage, and a point at the front that remained constant. A stick with a mark on it for the begining cut works good for the front. Be sure to have other witness marks so you always go back to the same spots. It's just one of those places that you think that your going to wear out the part from moving it on and off the plane before your done. Another example of 90% done 90% to go.Good luck. Curt
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Hi Curt,
Thanks for the advise. The stick with a mark is a great idea, I had been
struggling with a tape measure that was flopping around.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2001 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: Cowl

Hi again Al,
I should have reread your e-mail befor I sent mine, so I'll add one

other item.

I set up a point on the fusalage, and a point at the front that remained

constant. A stick with a mark on it for the begining cut works good for the
front. Be sure to have other witness marks so you always go back to the same
spots. It's just one of those places that you think that your going to wear
out the part from moving it on and off the plane before your done. Another
example of 90% done 90% to go.Good luck. Curt
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hi all

if i am making a 4 door cowl, what size metal should i use, 25 or 20 thou ??

mike#007

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I used 0.020 as per the manual but I did add a doubling around the cowl
latches. Next time I'd just use the piano hinges!
Even 0.020 probably needs a little curving around a cylinder of some
kind. Any thicker might necessitate rollers but I probably would have
used 0.025 if I had it on hand.
0.032 is too thick I think unless you spend a lot of time with rollers
making the curve match the firewall and nosebowl.
Ken

Jones, Michael wrote:

hi all

if i am making a 4 door cowl, what size metal should i use, 25 or 20 thou ??

mike#007

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I been mocking up my firewall and during the process I set my fiberglass cowl in place. Although it is still in it's one piece as recieved from MAM, it seems to follow the contour of the firewall at the top and sides, but not at the bottom. The bottom of the fuselage is flat and the cowl is round, is this how it will end up for air flow exit? And if so, is this where I need to access my gascolator for draining? So then does that mean I should let the drain cock hang just below the firewall bottom edge?
??????????
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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Bernard,
When Walter says "make the exit area much larger" it does not mean to cut ir forward. It means looking from the rear to make it project lower and /or wider so there is a bigger opening when viewed from the rear. Also, bring the cowl opening to the rear perhaps 50 cm to the rear of the firewall. One final suggestion is to build a small fairing for the bottom lip of the firewall so air coming down the firewall can exit easily and not create turbulence at the bottom lip.
Ralph Baker



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