N 83MR
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:19 pm
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From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "murphy archives" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: N 83MR
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 10:45:43 -0400
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Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words and a triple help, somebody, =
please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still can't believe that =
after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes unpaid. Even has to =
pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. I think he is =
putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is he?
About his comments about my Rebel (minor correction it is N83MR, not N =
89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I disagree on regarding =
his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after you =
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often =
well-meaning, prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, there is =
no reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the =
start. I wish I could charge for a set of instructions, after all it =
took me lots of money, blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, =
but you will by-pass all the grief and do it right the first time and =
you do not have to anticipate any period of teething problems.
It is probably a little like the more recent kit builders getting the =
benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. Finally once you have flown and =
sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for example) you are =
not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or 40 year-old =
parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only enhance =
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.
Now about the triple help I need: I have a conventional landing gear. =
Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used those bungee loops, designed =
for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer through-bolts and have as =
much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both sides). I use =
spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the large =
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee loops.
I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh side) and upon removal of =
cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 had slid =
completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging down =
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding the right leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on =
that side, that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the =
cloverleaf assy.
Can you believe this? I have been very pleased with the conventional =
gear set-up, although I became aware that maybe the gear was a little =
too stiff. However, people weighing less than yours truly, were also =
using the above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp says I should maybe let =
some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any input? But here is =
where I need the real help: Here I sit, I got one of those engine hoists =
and put a cable loop around the engine mount on the right side. I =
can't jack at the wheel obviously, because I have to have the whole =
landing gear to work on, how do I safely remove those damn loops? bobp =
says a very heavy duty strap will pull them apart, anybody else? Next =
what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to put the new loops back on?
Originally it was done by some J-3 expert that had a special tool looked =
like a modified car jack!
Needless to say I will have to disassemble the left side also, because =
it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near shot.
The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very promptly. They also are =
now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather than that long =
cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs =
collapses, you are looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it =
would almost be worthwhile for somebody to make up a nice tool both for =
removal and installation of those loops and rent it out to people that =
need it in the future at a reasonable fee so he can recoup his expense. =
I am of course assuming that not everybody has gone the spring steel =
landing gear. Any help to do this project of loop removal and =
reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated. Geert Frank
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words =
and a=20
triple help, somebody, please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still =
can't=20
believe that after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he =
goes=20
unpaid. Even has to pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. =
I think=20
he is putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is=20
he?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>About his comments about my Rebel (minor =
correction it=20
is N83MR, not N 89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I =
disagree on=20
regarding his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after =
you=20
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other=20
pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often=20
well-meaning, prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, =
there is no=20
reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the start. =
I wish I=20
could charge for a set of instructions, after all it took me lots of =
money,=20
blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, but you will by-pass =
all the=20
grief and do it right the first time and you do not have to anticipate =
any=20
period of teething problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>It is probably a little like the more recent =
kit=20
builders getting the benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. =
Finally once=20
you have flown and sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for =
example) you are not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or =
40=20
year-old parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only =
enhance=20
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now about the triple help I need: I =
have a=20
conventional landing gear. Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used =
those=20
bungee loops, designed for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer =
through-bolts=20
and have as much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both =
sides). I=20
use spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the =
large=20
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and=20
right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee =
loops.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh =
side) and=20
upon removal of cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 =
had=20
slid completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging =
down=20
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding=20
the right leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on that =
side,=20
that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the cloverleaf =
assy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Can you believe this? I =
have been=20
very pleased with the conventional gear set-up, although I became aware =
that=20
maybe the gear was a little too stiff. However, people weighing less =
than yours=20
truly, were also using the above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp =
says I=20
should maybe let some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any=20
input? But here is where I need the real help: =
Here I=20
sit, I got one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop around the =
engine=20
mount on the right side. I can't jack at the wheel =
obviously,=20
because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do I =
safely remove=20
those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will pull them =
apart,=20
anybody else? Next what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to =
put the=20
new loops back on?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Originally it was done by some J-3 expert =
that had a=20
special tool looked like a modified car jack!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Needless to say I will have to disassemble =
the left=20
side also, because it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near=20
shot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very =
promptly.=20
They also are now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather =
than that=20
long cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a=20
bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should=20
a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs collapses, you =
are=20
looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it would almost be =
worthwhile=20
for somebody to make up a nice tool both for removal and installation of =
those=20
loops and rent it out to people that need it in the future at a =
reasonable=20
fee so he can recoup his expense. I am of course assuming that not =
everybody has=20
gone the spring steel landing gear. Any help to do this project of =
loop=20
removal and reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated. =
Geert=20
Frank</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>
To: "murphy archives" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: N 83MR
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 10:45:43 -0400
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Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words and a triple help, somebody, =
please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still can't believe that =
after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he goes unpaid. Even has to =
pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. I think he is =
putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is he?
About his comments about my Rebel (minor correction it is N83MR, not N =
89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I disagree on regarding =
his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after you =
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often =
well-meaning, prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, there is =
no reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the =
start. I wish I could charge for a set of instructions, after all it =
took me lots of money, blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, =
but you will by-pass all the grief and do it right the first time and =
you do not have to anticipate any period of teething problems.
It is probably a little like the more recent kit builders getting the =
benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. Finally once you have flown and =
sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for example) you are =
not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or 40 year-old =
parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only enhance =
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.
Now about the triple help I need: I have a conventional landing gear. =
Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used those bungee loops, designed =
for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer through-bolts and have as =
much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both sides). I use =
spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the large =
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee loops.
I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh side) and upon removal of =
cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 had slid =
completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging down =
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding the right leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on =
that side, that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the =
cloverleaf assy.
Can you believe this? I have been very pleased with the conventional =
gear set-up, although I became aware that maybe the gear was a little =
too stiff. However, people weighing less than yours truly, were also =
using the above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp says I should maybe let =
some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any input? But here is =
where I need the real help: Here I sit, I got one of those engine hoists =
and put a cable loop around the engine mount on the right side. I =
can't jack at the wheel obviously, because I have to have the whole =
landing gear to work on, how do I safely remove those damn loops? bobp =
says a very heavy duty strap will pull them apart, anybody else? Next =
what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to put the new loops back on?
Originally it was done by some J-3 expert that had a special tool looked =
like a modified car jack!
Needless to say I will have to disassemble the left side also, because =
it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near shot.
The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very promptly. They also are =
now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather than that long =
cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs =
collapses, you are looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it =
would almost be worthwhile for somebody to make up a nice tool both for =
removal and installation of those loops and rent it out to people that =
need it in the future at a reasonable fee so he can recoup his expense. =
I am of course assuming that not everybody has gone the spring steel =
landing gear. Any help to do this project of loop removal and =
reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated. Geert Frank
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi to all, I guess I better say a few words =
and a=20
triple help, somebody, please! First, bobp. is a heck of a guy, I still =
can't=20
believe that after all he does for the "Rebel Movement", he =
goes=20
unpaid. Even has to pay his own way at these airshows, like Sun 'N Fun. =
I think=20
he is putting me on (no Bob, you cannot comment this once!) or is=20
he?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>About his comments about my Rebel (minor =
correction it=20
is N83MR, not N 89MR), they are all quite valid. The only thing I =
disagree on=20
regarding his comments is the anticipated trial and error period after =
you=20
installed a Subaru Legacy engine. Yeah, that went for me, that went for =
other=20
pioneers, that got some bad advice from the many false, but often=20
well-meaning, prophets out there, but you put a Subaru in now, =
there is no=20
reason whatsoever that you cannot do it correctly right from the start. =
I wish I=20
could charge for a set of instructions, after all it took me lots of =
money,=20
blood and sweat, but that does not seem feasible, but you will by-pass =
all the=20
grief and do it right the first time and you do not have to anticipate =
any=20
period of teething problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>It is probably a little like the more recent =
kit=20
builders getting the benefits of the previous guys' sorrows. =
Finally once=20
you have flown and sat behind a good running Subaru( anno 1998, 1999 for =
example) you are not going to wish for a 1935-design-Lycoming with 30 or =
40=20
year-old parts and many illegible signature overhauls and you will only =
enhance=20
the value of your Rebel, not diminish it. Mark my word.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now about the triple help I need: I =
have a=20
conventional landing gear. Instead of the Murphy supplied cord I used =
those=20
bungee loops, designed for 400 lbs each. I use heavier and longer =
through-bolts=20
and have as much bolt sticking out forward(both sides) as aft (both =
sides). I=20
use spacers around the bolt(again for and aft of the gearleg) with the =
large=20
penny washers at the ends. I have 3 of the above loops at each position =
left and=20
right so that is a total of four positions or 12 bungee =
loops.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I noticed a bulge in the bungee covers (rh =
side) and=20
upon removal of cover found that, presumably during a firm landing, LG 4 =
had=20
slid completely out of its lower slide tube assy (LG 43) and was hanging =
down=20
with the frayed remnant of the safety cable hanging out of it. What was =
holding=20
the right leg on? The pressure from those six bungee loops on that =
side,=20
that's all. They sort of jammed the lower slide tube into the cloverleaf =
assy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Can you believe this? I =
have been=20
very pleased with the conventional gear set-up, although I became aware =
that=20
maybe the gear was a little too stiff. However, people weighing less =
than yours=20
truly, were also using the above total of 12 bungee loops. bobp =
says I=20
should maybe let some air out of the tires!? Anybody else have any=20
input? But here is where I need the real help: =
Here I=20
sit, I got one of those engine hoists and put a cable loop around the =
engine=20
mount on the right side. I can't jack at the wheel =
obviously,=20
because I have to have the whole landing gear to work on, how do I =
safely remove=20
those damn loops? bobp says a very heavy duty strap will pull them =
apart,=20
anybody else? Next what tool can I beg, steal or borrow to =
put the=20
new loops back on?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Originally it was done by some J-3 expert =
that had a=20
special tool looked like a modified car jack!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Needless to say I will have to disassemble =
the left=20
side also, because it's safety cable is most likely also shot or near=20
shot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>The new parts I ordered from Murphy came very =
promptly.=20
They also are now recommending the use of a safety cable loop rather =
than that=20
long cable inside the leg. What was curious is, that the new LG-5's were =
quite a=20
bit longer than the original ones. Another one of those Murphy =
mysteries? Should=20
a bulletin have been issued? If one of those gear legs collapses, you =
are=20
looking at a world of damage. Eh Dave? Anway it would almost be =
worthwhile=20
for somebody to make up a nice tool both for removal and installation of =
those=20
loops and rent it out to people that need it in the future at a =
reasonable=20
fee so he can recoup his expense. I am of course assuming that not =
everybody has=20
gone the spring steel landing gear. Any help to do this project of =
loop=20
removal and reinstalling SAFELY would be much appreciated. =
Geert=20
Frank</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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