The Murphy Builders Site

I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth getting a
hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides dimpling?
I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise grip
type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120 degree,
but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was looking
at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I don't see
any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120 deg
countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
Thanks
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Mother

I used captive Tinnerman nuts for all the inspection plate screws. They
take a 3/32" flush rivet. You can get 3/32" blind rivets, or use solid ones
and squeeze them. On dimples that small, 120 vs 110 degress isn't critical.
I just couldn't see using sheet metal screws into that thin aluminum on the
skin. I used dimple dies mostly (got them from ATS), though I also have a
squeezer (needed it for my floats). If I'd been thinking far enough ahead,
I'd have mounted these Tinnerman nuts on the skin before I applied it to the
wing/stab. That way, I could have back riveted them on a steel anvil. As
it is, I've found I either have to open up the access holes 1/8" or trim the
back of my squeezer 1/8" to get it through the holes.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2004 8:23 PM
Subject: Squeezer dimpling

I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth getting

a

hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides

dimpling?

I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise grip
type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120 degree,
but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was looking
at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I don't

see

any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120 deg
countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
Thanks
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Mother's Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mother's
Day Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04mothersday.armx

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Personally, I can't ever have too many tools. That said, the squeezer
has been used many times on my plane . Wherever you can get to the
rivet and it doesn't look out of place. The solid rivets are stronger
and cheaper as well. The latest use was to squeeze about 80 3/32 flush
rivets to hold the top and bottom hinge halves for the cowl.

For access covers the nutplate rivets can be pulled or squeezed
according to access as there is little force on them.
Just don't rivet them on. In fact, try to think ahead and many
modification as necessary to ease future maintenance.
You should be able to find a squeezer for about US$125 new and a search
on Ebay may prove worthwhile.
Ralph Baker


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One thing to keep in mind wrt dimpling, is that the squeeze or hit force
required is very small. I've not admitted it yet (here goes), but I set out
to solid flush rivet my leading edge skin to stringers, and got off on making
some little tools to help this go smoothly (no pun intended). For dimpling
the stringers (.030), I'm using a piece of mild steel with the pilot hole and
100 degree countersink for the female die side, and use the store bought
hardened male dimple die in the rivet gun. For the skins I use the male die
on the end of a mild steel dowel that rides in a "donut" that keeps the die
from hitting crooked (has to be perpendicular to avoid marks from the outside
of the die) -- I hit the steel dowel a couple soft taps with a hammer. So
far, all is going well. Some have told me this flush riveting thing is
completely unnecessary. My answer: so is the whole airplane. That doesn't
seem to stop me. :)
-Ben Ransom



-> I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth getting
a
-> hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides
dimpling?
-> I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise grip
-> type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120 degree,
-> but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was looking
-> at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I don't
see
-> any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120 deg
-> countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
-> Thanks
-> Jesse
->
-> _________________________________________________________________
-> Mother

Ben,
Its good to know that there are others who are compulsive, but I must tell
you it took me a long time to convince my wife that it was necessary to
build an airplane.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Squeezer dimpling

One thing to keep in mind wrt dimpling, is that the squeeze or hit force
required is very small. I've not admitted it yet (here goes), but I set

out

to solid flush rivet my leading edge skin to stringers, and got off on

making

some little tools to help this go smoothly (no pun intended). For

dimpling

the stringers (.030), I'm using a piece of mild steel with the pilot hole

and

100 degree countersink for the female die side, and use the store bought
hardened male dimple die in the rivet gun. For the skins I use the male

die

on the end of a mild steel dowel that rides in a "donut" that keeps the

die

from hitting crooked (has to be perpendicular to avoid marks from the

outside

of the die) -- I hit the steel dowel a couple soft taps with a hammer. So
far, all is going well. Some have told me this flush riveting thing is
completely unnecessary. My answer: so is the whole airplane. That doesn't
seem to stop me. :)
-Ben Ransom



-> I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth

getting

a
-> hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides
dimpling?
-> I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise

grip

-> type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120

degree,

-> but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was

looking

-> at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I

don't

see
-> any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120

deg

-> countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
-> Thanks
-> Jesse
->
-> _________________________________________________________________
-> Mother

Al,
I bet it would take even longer now! :):)
Ralph Baker

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Paxhia" <paxhia2@comcast.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling

Ben,
Its good to know that there are others who are compulsive, but I mu

st tell

you it took me a long time to convince my wife that it was necessar

y to

build an airplane.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Squeezer dimpling

One thing to keep in mind wrt dimpling, is that the squeeze or hi

t force

required is very small. I've not admitted it yet (here goes), bu

t I set

out

to solid flush rivet my leading edge skin to stringers, and got o

ff on

making

some little tools to help this go smoothly (no pun intended). Fo

r

dimpling

the stringers (.030), I'm using a piece of mild steel with the pi

lot
hole

and

100 degree countersink for the female die side, and use the store

bought

hardened male dimple die in the rivet gun. For the skins I use t

he male

die

on the end of a mild steel dowel that rides in a "donut" that kee

ps the

die

from hitting crooked (has to be perpendicular to avoid marks from

the

outside

of the die) -- I hit the steel dowel a couple soft taps with a ha

mmer.
So

far, all is going well. Some have told me this flush riveting th

ing is

completely unnecessary. My answer: so is the whole airplane. Tha

t
doesn't

seem to stop me. :)
-Ben Ransom



-> I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it wo

rth

getting

a
-> hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besi

des

dimpling?
-> I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find

a vise

grip

-> type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in

120

degree,

-> but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I

was

looking

-> at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail sectio

n, I

don't

see
-> any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings

for
120

deg

-> countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
-> Thanks
-> Jesse
->
-> ______________________________________________________________

___

-> Mother

Al,
I guess I would not use the words "unnecessary" and "airplane" in the same
sentence to my wife either! :-)

BTW, I finally got organized enf to put some pictures up at
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/Murphy -- for starters, this shows
some pics of the dimpling blocks I was referring to.
-Ben

On 5/10/2004 5:47 PM, PAXHIA2@COMCAST.NET wrote to MURPHY-REBEL:
-> Ben,
-> Its good to know that there are others who are compulsive, but I must tell
-> you it took me a long time to convince my wife that it was necessary to
-> build an airplane.
-> Al
-> Moose, N526AP
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
-> To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:11 PM
-> Subject: RE: Squeezer dimpling
->
->
-> > One thing to keep in mind wrt dimpling, is that the squeeze or hit force
-> > required is very small. I've not admitted it yet (here goes), but I set
-> out
-> > to solid flush rivet my leading edge skin to stringers, and got off on
-> making
-> > some little tools to help this go smoothly (no pun intended). For
-> dimpling
-> > the stringers (.030), I'm using a piece of mild steel with the pilot hole
-> and
-> > 100 degree countersink for the female die side, and use the store bought
-> > hardened male dimple die in the rivet gun. For the skins I use the male
-> die
-> > on the end of a mild steel dowel that rides in a "donut" that keeps the
-> die
-> > from hitting crooked (has to be perpendicular to avoid marks from the
-> outside
-> > of the die) -- I hit the steel dowel a couple soft taps with a hammer.
So
-> > far, all is going well. Some have told me this flush riveting thing is
-> > completely unnecessary. My answer: so is the whole airplane. That
doesn't
-> > seem to stop me. :)
-> > -Ben Ransom
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -> I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth
-> getting
-> > a
-> > -> hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides
-> > dimpling?
-> > -> I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise
-> grip
-> > -> type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120
-> degree,
-> > -> but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was
-> looking
-> > -> at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I
-> don't
-> > see
-> > -> any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120
-> deg
-> > -> countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
-> > -> Thanks
-> > -> Jesse
-> > ->
-> > -> _________________________________________________________________
-> > -> Mother

Hi Ben,

My name is Warren and I'm a dimpleoholic too.

I use the normal pneumatic rivet gun for dimpling.
Having tried to machine a head for the gun in the shape of the male I

found an easier way.
Using the large head/nut on the gun wrap with a thin strip of tape to

build up to same dia as the male dimple
then wrap both the dimple and head so as to attach to gun.
after using it'll be easy to remove dimpler with built up area still

attached so next time it's held on by friction and the little bit of

stick still left on tape.
I've gone through a couple of boxes of cheap nails as I toss out when

they get too chewed up.
For tight areas where the nail won't go such as the tailing edge of

flaps and elevator I used a cut off bolt and inserted into a nut on

other side of female and pulled

Here's my fill recipe.

Having scotch brited outside of skin before dimple.
fill mandrel hole with primer injecting with 21 gauge needle (common
size)
this to give the next step a binder to any fine particulate matter
using airbrush spray each dimpled area plus a bit with 1/2" paint bla
st
this to tell you when you've sanded too far in the next steps
let mandrel fill settle overnight
inject mandrel hole with lightweight epoxy polyfill available AS&S us
ing
16 gauge needle (IV type)
Using fiber wheel clean off rivet head burrs and excess fill flush
fill dimpled area and cover rivet with polyfil leveling with spreader
,
sand lightly w 220 wet, repeat.
final top coat of auto glaze, sand lightly with 220 or 320 wet

I also used a rivet shaver on all the countersunk areas such as the f
uel
cell top skin.
About the only area I don't have flush rivets is the bottom fuel tank
skin.

Of course we'll probably have to add VGs later on.
Would I do it again, ya.

I've now completed the wings, ail, flaps, elev this way
rudder fin and fuss rivets ready for filling

Warren
Smooth Moose 029


Al Paxhia wrote:

Ben,
Its good to know that there are others who are compulsive, but I mus

t tell

you it took me a long time to convince my wife that it was necessary

to

build an airplane.
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Squeezer dimpling

One thing to keep in mind wrt dimpling, is that the squeeze or hit

force

required is very small. I've not admitted it yet (here goes), but

I set

out

to solid flush rivet my leading edge skin to stringers, and got off

on

making

some little tools to help this go smoothly (no pun intended). For

dimpling

the stringers (.030), I'm using a piece of mild steel with the pilo

t hole

and

100 degree countersink for the female die side, and use the store b

ought

hardened male dimple die in the rivet gun. For the skins I use the

male

die

on the end of a mild steel dowel that rides in a "donut" that keeps

the

die

from hitting crooked (has to be perpendicular to avoid marks from t

he

outside

of the die) -- I hit the steel dowel a couple soft taps with a hamm

er. So

far, all is going well. Some have told me this flush riveting thin

g is

completely unnecessary. My answer: so is the whole airplane. That

doesn't

seem to stop me. :)
-Ben Ransom



-> I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it wort

h

getting

a
-> hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else beside

s

dimpling?
-> I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a

vise

grip

-> type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 1

20

degree,

-> but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I w

as

looking

-> at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section,

I

don't

see
-> any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings f

or 120

deg

-> countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
-> Thanks
-> Jesse
->
-> ________________________________________________________________

_

-> Mother

Jesse

I don't think there were any 3/16" dimples. THere are a few countersunk
ones.

The $4.95 5102D-3/32 from www.aircraft-tool.com works fine. It is 100
degree but both the small head solid rivets and the cherry nutplate
rivets are 100 degree. www.averytools.com has the 1022 part for $12.50
which is the same thing but probably slightly higher quality.

I found having both a vice-grip type of dimpler and also the pop-rivet
type of pulled dimpler mentioned above to be quite sufficient. The vice
grip one is fast and more versatile than a table mounted squeezer. The
pop rivet style one will get the places that the other types won't.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth getti

ng a

hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides dimpl

ing?

I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise g

rip

type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120 degr

ee,

but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was look

ing

at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I don'

t see

any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120

deg

countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
Thanks
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Mother

Thanks Ken,
I was considering getting a hand-held squeezer like a Tatco or similar, and
using dimple die sets in it for dimples near the edges, and the pull-typ
dimpler in unreachable areas, as you say. You like the vise grip dimplers
though eh? I was wondering how they can make a good dimple if the vise grip
jaws don't stay parallel? Do you think it's unnecessary to get a squeezer?
Jesse

From: klehman@albedo.net
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:14:37 -0400

Jesse

I don't think there were any 3/16" dimples. THere are a few countersunk
ones.

The $4.95 5102D-3/32 from www.aircraft-tool.com works fine. It is 100
degree but both the small head solid rivets and the cherry nutplate
rivets are 100 degree. www.averytools.com has the 1022 part for $12.50
which is the same thing but probably slightly higher quality.

I found having both a vice-grip type of dimpler and also the pop-rivet
type of pulled dimpler mentioned above to be quite sufficient. The vice
grip one is fast and more versatile than a table mounted squeezer. The
pop rivet style one will get the places that the other types won't.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth getti

ng a

hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides dimpl

ing?

I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise g

rip

type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120 degr

ee,

but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was look

ing

at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I don'

t see

any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120

deg

countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
Thanks
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Mother

Thanks guys,
Ok, I will spend my money on something else instead. I guess I should just
get enough tools to get started, then I can see for myself what I'm really
dealing with.
Those skis sound pretty cool Wayne. Don't get much snow on the California
coast though. Do they work in sand?

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 22:11:12 -0400

Jesse....11 years of this.... almost full time for most of it...... and I
just bought a squeezer this past month...and it was for all the solid
rivets
in the new ski beams, not the airplanes!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling

Thanks Ken,
I was considering getting a hand-held squeezer like a Tatco or similar,

and

using dimple die sets in it for dimples near the edges, and the pull-typ
dimpler in unreachable areas, as you say. You like the vise grip

dimplers

though eh? I was wondering how they can make a good dimple if the vise

grip

jaws don't stay parallel? Do you think it's unnecessary to get a

squeezer?

Jesse

From: klehman@albedo.net
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:14:37 -0400

Jesse

I don't think there were any 3/16" dimples. THere are a few countersunk
ones.

The $4.95 5102D-3/32 from www.aircraft-tool.com works fine. It is 100
degree but both the small head solid rivets and the cherry nutplate
rivets are 100 degree. www.averytools.com has the 1022 part for $12.50
which is the same thing but probably slightly higher quality.

I found having both a vice-grip type of dimpler and also the pop-rivet
type of pulled dimpler mentioned above to be quite sufficient. The vice
grip one is fast and more versatile than a table mounted squeezer. The
pop rivet style one will get the places that the other types won't.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

getti

ng a

dimpl

ing?

vise
g

rip

degr

ee,

look

ing

don'

t see

120

deg

Moth

er's

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_________________________________________________________________
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Jesse....11 years of this.... almost full time for most of it...... and I
just bought a squeezer this past month...and it was for all the solid rivets
in the new ski beams, not the airplanes!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling

Thanks Ken,
I was considering getting a hand-held squeezer like a Tatco or similar,

and

using dimple die sets in it for dimples near the edges, and the pull-typ
dimpler in unreachable areas, as you say. You like the vise grip dimplers
though eh? I was wondering how they can make a good dimple if the vise

grip

jaws don't stay parallel? Do you think it's unnecessary to get a squeezer?
Jesse

From: klehman@albedo.net
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:14:37 -0400

Jesse

I don't think there were any 3/16" dimples. THere are a few countersunk
ones.

The $4.95 5102D-3/32 from www.aircraft-tool.com works fine. It is 100
degree but both the small head solid rivets and the cherry nutplate
rivets are 100 degree. www.averytools.com has the 1022 part for $12.50
which is the same thing but probably slightly higher quality.

I found having both a vice-grip type of dimpler and also the pop-rivet
type of pulled dimpler mentioned above to be quite sufficient. The vice
grip one is fast and more versatile than a table mounted squeezer. The
pop rivet style one will get the places that the other types won't.

Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I am still trying to decide what to buy for dimpling. Is it worth

getti

ng a

hand squeezer for $160+? Would I use it for anything else besides

dimpl

ing?

I have heard mention of solid rivets in the spar. I can't find a vise

g

rip

type dimpler in 120 degrees, but I can find dimple die sets in 120

degr

ee,

but 1/8 inch only. Do I need 3/16 dimplers too, or only 1/8? I was

look

ing

at Wrays Rebel manual online, and at least for the tail section, I

don'

t see

any reference to 3/16 CS rivets. I have found several listings for 120

deg

countersink cutters now, but dimplers are still a problem.
Thanks
Jesse

_________________________________________________________________
Mother's Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Moth

er's

Day Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04mothersday.armx

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_________________________________________________________________
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Not sure how long the UHMW bottoms would hold up... grinding through the
desert....but sure would keep you from nosing over! I think you should buy a
set and give them a whirl!


Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling

Thanks guys,
Ok, I will spend my money on something else instead. I guess I should just
get enough tools to get started, then I can see for myself what I'm really
dealing with.
Those skis sound pretty cool Wayne. Don't get much snow on the California
coast though. Do they work in sand?

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 22:11:12 -0400

Jesse....11 years of this.... almost full time for most of it...... and I
just bought a squeezer this past month...and it was for all the solid
rivets
in the new ski beams, not the airplanes!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Squeezer dimpling

Thanks Ken,
I was considering getting a hand-held squeezer like a Tatco or

similar,

and

using dimple die sets in it for dimples near the edges, and the

pull-typ

dimpler in unreachable areas, as you say. You like the vise grip

dimplers

though eh? I was wondering how they can make a good dimple if the vise

grip

jaws don't stay parallel? Do you think it's unnecessary to get a

squeezer?

Jesse

countersunk

$12.50

pop-rivet

vice

The

getti

dimpl

vise
g

degr

look

don'

120

Moth

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McAfee

Jesse
I made my own vise grip dimple die holder and the dies are free to move
a bit (really just a loose fit) so that they do stay parallel to the
aluminum sheet even though the vice grip jaws rotate closed. Don't know
if commercial ones do the same but they probably do.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

Thanks Ken,
I was considering getting a hand-held squeezer like a Tatco or similar, and
using dimple die sets in it for dimples near the edges, and the pull-typ
dimpler in unreachable areas, as you say. You like the vise grip dimplers
though eh? I was wondering how they can make a good dimple if the vise grip
jaws don't stay parallel? Do you think it's unnecessary to get a squeezer?
Jesse

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