Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

I did this same repair on one of my elevators about two years ago and not
sure if I shared it with everyone or not...as I thought it was "spectator"
damage from flyins. I also now know that this happened to Angus McKenzie's
Rebel as well.

I have now found the same thing on Howard's, while doing his annual and have
repaired same today. For those that haven't closed up their elevators yet
(this is Rebel specific..does not apply to Elite or SR) I would suggest
doing reinforcements now... rather than later.

What happens is that you will first see the skin crack around the 3/16"
rivet that's holding the elevator skin's corner to the outboard spar "cap"
area. Investigating further, by removing the balancer tip, you will find
that the tab on the end rib (also held by a 3/16 rivet to the end cap area)
will be cracked or at least rotating freely around that single rivet. This
rib being held by the single rivet, and thanks to the loads transfered from
the balancer tip, allows the rib to move up and down...flexing the skin and
cracking same...as well as the rib tab (right off in my case).

If you are building new, and/or not closed yet, what I would highly suggest
is to take a piece of angle (.025 or .032) and using a couple of RV1410
rivets mount it to the inner side of the elevators end rib with the other
flange against the spar tube. Then put a single 3/16 -RV1613 rivet through
the angle and into the spar tube. This will put an end to the ribs ability
to rotate around that single rivet. In conjunction with that, I would also
do the same as I have done during repair and add a gusset of .020 or .025
material under the top and bottom skin in each outer corner to give it a bit
more strength. I have made the gusset to pick up three of the 1/8 rivets in
each direction away from the outboard corner at the spar tube.

For repairing in service elevators I have found that cutting off about 3" of
a spare rib, placing it inside the original and riveting with about 5 or 6
rivets seems to work okay. Then the gussets as described above, top and
bottom of the skin.

If anyone wants pictures to clarify what the $#%@ I'm talking about...just
ask!

So what the service bulletin would say would be...... "before further flight
and every 50 hours thereafter.....inspect elevator skins for cracks or
buckling radiating from the outboard spar tube corner. If cracks or buckling
is found then the tip is to be removed and the elevator is to be repaired
per the above directions prior to further flight" or something like that.

Cheers,
Wayne




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[Legeorgen]

Hi Wayne,

How about posting a few picks to the list sight? I am not the only one, I'm
sure, that would like to see a few pics. Picture's worth a thousand words.
Thanks for the "service bulletin"!

Bruce



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Okay, I'll go thru what I have and post something to "Rebel - Tail feathers"
shortly. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hi Wayne,

How about posting a few picks to the list sight? I am not the only one,

I'm

sure, that would like to see a few pics. Picture's worth a thousand words.
Thanks for the "service bulletin"!

Bruce

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Pictures are up in Rebel - Tail Feathers! Not the greatest, but you'll get
the point. In the one picture about the only thing to lead you to the skin
crack is the black marker arrows. Use a magnifying glass when checking yours
if you have to!

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... n%20SB.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB2.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB3.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB4.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB5.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB6.jpg


Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Okay, I'll go thru what I have and post something to "Rebel - Tail

feathers"

shortly. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hi Wayne,

How about posting a few picks to the list sight? I am not the only one,

I'm

sure, that would like to see a few pics. Picture's worth a thousand

words.

Thanks for the "service bulletin"!

Bruce

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[Legeorgen]

Thanks again for the pics Wayne. I'll be sure to keep this as part of my
inspection routine.

Bruce



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[yeom]

Yes it does happen! Both WEC and JHY here in NZ have done the same thing.

Cheers

Alister


----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Cc: Brian Godden <bgodden@murphyair.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 12:20 PM
Subject: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

I did this same repair on one of my elevators about two years ago and not
sure if I shared it with everyone or not...as I thought it was "spectator"
damage from flyins. I also now know that this happened to Angus McKenzie's
Rebel as well.

I have now found the same thing on Howard's, while doing his annual and

have

repaired same today. For those that haven't closed up their elevators yet
(this is Rebel specific..does not apply to Elite or SR) I would suggest
doing reinforcements now... rather than later.

What happens is that you will first see the skin crack around the 3/16"
rivet that's holding the elevator skin's corner to the outboard spar "cap"
area. Investigating further, by removing the balancer tip, you will find
that the tab on the end rib (also held by a 3/16 rivet to the end cap

area)

will be cracked or at least rotating freely around that single rivet. This
rib being held by the single rivet, and thanks to the loads transfered

from

the balancer tip, allows the rib to move up and down...flexing the skin

and

cracking same...as well as the rib tab (right off in my case).

If you are building new, and/or not closed yet, what I would highly

suggest

is to take a piece of angle (.025 or .032) and using a couple of RV1410
rivets mount it to the inner side of the elevators end rib with the other
flange against the spar tube. Then put a single 3/16 -RV1613 rivet through
the angle and into the spar tube. This will put an end to the ribs ability
to rotate around that single rivet. In conjunction with that, I would also
do the same as I have done during repair and add a gusset of .020 or .025
material under the top and bottom skin in each outer corner to give it a

bit

more strength. I have made the gusset to pick up three of the 1/8 rivets

in

each direction away from the outboard corner at the spar tube.

For repairing in service elevators I have found that cutting off about 3"

of

a spare rib, placing it inside the original and riveting with about 5 or 6
rivets seems to work okay. Then the gussets as described above, top and
bottom of the skin.

If anyone wants pictures to clarify what the $#%@ I'm talking about...just
ask!

So what the service bulletin would say would be...... "before further

flight

and every 50 hours thereafter.....inspect elevator skins for cracks or
buckling radiating from the outboard spar tube corner. If cracks or

buckling

is found then the tip is to be removed and the elevator is to be repaired
per the above directions prior to further flight" or something like that.

Cheers,
Wayne

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[Jean Poirier]

Hello Wayne.

My both elevator are completed but not paint yet and the left one is not
final riveted (finishing trim). Service bulletin is severe enough to
deriveted/put angle + gussets/ and reassembly?(better now than later?) As
a note probably the biggest disavantage to assembly wet is when you
disassembly! What is the "lenght" of the angle on the rib side?

Is car electric wire is ok to use for the electric trim? Do you put those
wires inside a vinyl hose to protect them? If in the hose, hose across
grommelt is secure enough (inside the elevator).... In books, If I
understand.... the use more "mecanical" connector then solder.... To joint
the small trim wire to extension them, I would prefer solder/shrink cover
is it ok? Thanks again

Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Pictures are up in Rebel - Tail Feathers! Not the greatest, but you'll get
the point. In the one picture about the only thing to lead you to the skin
crack is the black marker arrows. Use a magnifying glass when checking

yours

if you have to!

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... n%20SB.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB2.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB3.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB4.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB5.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB6.jpg


Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Okay, I'll go thru what I have and post something to "Rebel - Tail

feathers"

shortly. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hi Wayne,

How about posting a few picks to the list sight? I am not the only

one,

I'm

sure, that would like to see a few pics. Picture's worth a thousand

words.

Thanks for the "service bulletin"!

Bruce

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Jean, if your elevators are closed it's very hard to get in there to install
the angle piece, but if you can I am suggesting a piece of angle the width
of the rib with just enough clearance for the skins. It is very easy though
to remove three rivets each way and install the gusset plates top and bottom
and this should add longevity considerably even without the angle piece!

As for wiring....do not use automotive wire if you can help it. Not very
high quality and VERY prone to corrosion.

As for running the wires through the elevator to the trim motor...what ever
works for you. Hose or a tube allows for removal and reinstallation. Just
grommets and you can't. I have used the plastic tube that a 12" drill bit
comes in before with great success. As for connections, the only sure way to
connect wires of this size is solder with shrink wrap cover. Just make sure
you leave enough extra wire in case you ever have to cut and resplice for
removal of the motor.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hello Wayne.

My both elevator are completed but not paint yet and the left one is not
final riveted (finishing trim). Service bulletin is severe enough to
deriveted/put angle + gussets/ and reassembly?(better now than later?)

As

a note probably the biggest disavantage to assembly wet is when you
disassembly! What is the "lenght" of the angle on the rib side?

Is car electric wire is ok to use for the electric trim? Do you put those
wires inside a vinyl hose to protect them? If in the hose, hose across
grommelt is secure enough (inside the elevator).... In books, If I
understand.... the use more "mecanical" connector then solder.... To

joint

the small trim wire to extension them, I would prefer solder/shrink cover
is it ok? Thanks again

Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Pictures are up in Rebel - Tail Feathers! Not the greatest, but you'll

get

the point. In the one picture about the only thing to lead you to the

skin

crack is the black marker arrows. Use a magnifying glass when checking

yours

if you have to!

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... n%20SB.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB2.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB3.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB4.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB5.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB6.jpg


Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Okay, I'll go thru what I have and post something to "Rebel - Tail

feathers"

shortly. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

one,

I'm

words.

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[Murray & Carol Cherkas]

Hello

Should we be concerned about leaving the rivet ends in the torque tube?
You would have to remove the horn to get them out.

Murray
Rebel 505

Note
160 hp. Lycomming. 74DM6-58 Sensenich prop.4500' elev.4 bungies per side. no
spinner
Cruise speed: 2450 rpm 112 mph.
2500 rpm 116 mph.
2800 rpm flat out 132 mph

I had the windmill repitched to 60. Will give you the numbers when I've had
a chance to test it.


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: May 11, 2004 11:55 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"


Jean, if your elevators are closed it's very hard to get in there to install
the angle piece, but if you can I am suggesting a piece of angle the width
of the rib with just enough clearance for the skins. It is very easy though
to remove three rivets each way and install the gusset plates top and bottom
and this should add longevity considerably even without the angle piece!

As for wiring....do not use automotive wire if you can help it. Not very
high quality and VERY prone to corrosion.

As for running the wires through the elevator to the trim motor...what ever
works for you. Hose or a tube allows for removal and reinstallation. Just
grommets and you can't. I have used the plastic tube that a 12" drill bit
comes in before with great success. As for connections, the only sure way to
connect wires of this size is solder with shrink wrap cover. Just make sure
you leave enough extra wire in case you ever have to cut and resplice for
removal of the motor.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hello Wayne.

My both elevator are completed but not paint yet and the left one is not
final riveted (finishing trim). Service bulletin is severe enough to
deriveted/put angle + gussets/ and reassembly?(better now than later?)

As

a note probably the biggest disavantage to assembly wet is when you
disassembly! What is the "lenght" of the angle on the rib side?

Is car electric wire is ok to use for the electric trim? Do you put those
wires inside a vinyl hose to protect them? If in the hose, hose across
grommelt is secure enough (inside the elevator).... In books, If I
understand.... the use more "mecanical" connector then solder.... To

joint

the small trim wire to extension them, I would prefer solder/shrink cover
is it ok? Thanks again

Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Pictures are up in Rebel - Tail Feathers! Not the greatest, but you'll

get

the point. In the one picture about the only thing to lead you to the

skin

crack is the black marker arrows. Use a magnifying glass when checking

yours

if you have to!

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... n%20SB.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB2.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB3.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB4.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB5.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB6.jpg


Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Okay, I'll go thru what I have and post something to "Rebel - Tail

feathers"

shortly. Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

one,

I'm

words.

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Murray, if concerned about the rivet ends rolling around two
choices....squirt some paint/EP420 in through the open hole before
re-riveting and it will stick things in place so they don't roll around...or
remove the elevator and dump the drilled out rivets through the 1/4" bolt
hole in either end plug. If you have a fine pen style magnet that will help
speed up the process!

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray & Carol Cherkas" <cherkas@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 10:43 PM
Subject: RE: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hello

Should we be concerned about leaving the rivet ends in the torque tube?
You would have to remove the horn to get them out.

Murray
Rebel 505

Note
160 hp. Lycomming. 74DM6-58 Sensenich prop.4500' elev.4 bungies per side.

no

spinner
Cruise speed: 2450 rpm 112 mph.
2500 rpm 116 mph.
2800 rpm flat out 132 mph

I had the windmill repitched to 60. Will give you the numbers when I've

had

a chance to test it.


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: May 11, 2004 11:55 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"


Jean, if your elevators are closed it's very hard to get in there to

install

the angle piece, but if you can I am suggesting a piece of angle the width
of the rib with just enough clearance for the skins. It is very easy

though

to remove three rivets each way and install the gusset plates top and

bottom

and this should add longevity considerably even without the angle piece!

As for wiring....do not use automotive wire if you can help it. Not very
high quality and VERY prone to corrosion.

As for running the wires through the elevator to the trim motor...what

ever

works for you. Hose or a tube allows for removal and reinstallation. Just
grommets and you can't. I have used the plastic tube that a 12" drill bit
comes in before with great success. As for connections, the only sure way

to

connect wires of this size is solder with shrink wrap cover. Just make

sure

you leave enough extra wire in case you ever have to cut and resplice for
removal of the motor.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Hello Wayne.

My both elevator are completed but not paint yet and the left one is not
final riveted (finishing trim). Service bulletin is severe enough to
deriveted/put angle + gussets/ and reassembly?(better now than later?)

As

a note probably the biggest disavantage to assembly wet is when you
disassembly! What is the "lenght" of the angle on the rib side?

Is car electric wire is ok to use for the electric trim? Do you put

those

wires inside a vinyl hose to protect them? If in the hose, hose

across

grommelt is secure enough (inside the elevator).... In books, If I
understand.... the use more "mecanical" connector then solder.... To

joint

the small trim wire to extension them, I would prefer solder/shrink

cover

is it ok? Thanks again

Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

Pictures are up in Rebel - Tail Feathers! Not the greatest, but you'll

get

the point. In the one picture about the only thing to lead you to the

skin

crack is the black marker arrows. Use a magnifying glass when checking

yours

if you have to!

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... n%20SB.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB2.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB3.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB4.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB5.jpg

http://www.dcsol.com:81/file/area27/Ele ... %20SB6.jpg


Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel - Elevator - "Service Bulletin"

feathers"

one,

thousand

words.

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