The Murphy Builders Site

Looking for a prize for weird questions ....

Having bought a 1995 project, by now a few of the aluminum parts have the
plastic coating baked on from storage in the original owner's Texas barn. It
is impossible to peel off more than a square mm at a time, and even that is
difficult. Has anyone else encountered this and found a better method to get
the stuff off besides swearing?
-Ben



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I've had success gently warming it with a heat gun and using a broom
handle to roll it up

BRANSOM wrote:

Looking for a prize for weird questions ....

Having bought a 1995 project, by now a few of the aluminum parts have the
plastic coating baked on from storage in the original owner's Texas barn. It
is impossible to peel off more than a square mm at a time, and even that is
difficult. Has anyone else encountered this and found a better method to get
the stuff off besides swearing?
-Ben

--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://wrayt.tripod.com/
My ICQ number is 29764664


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There is a product I think it's called "goof-off" that I found works very well
for plastic baked on by the sun. I tried several solvent-based cleaners
and I think this was the one that worked. Smear the solvent on, cover that area
up with another piece of aluminum and wait until the plastic lifts off. Work
the plastic off with a plastic scraper.

Don

On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 11:03:00 -0900 bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Looking for a prize for weird questions ....

Having bought a 1995 project, by now a few of the aluminum parts have the
plastic coating baked on from storage in the original owner's Texas barn. It
is impossible to peel off more than a square mm at a time, and even that is
difficult. Has anyone else encountered this and found a better method to get
the stuff off besides swearing?
-Ben



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As Wray suggests, this is the way I have always taken the plastic off.... to
make it easier and especially to avoid buckling large pieces. Get enough of
the end started to wrap around a 3/4" piece of Plastic pipe or an even
shafted broom handle and then just roll slowly.

If this is a no go, the Goo Off does work good for tape goo etc so suggest
it would lift as Don suggest. Just make sure you wash it off REALLY good
with water or acetone or something as the acid ingredients of the orange
might just keep eating (and also keep primer/paint from sticking!)

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <wrayt@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: protective plastic removal

I've had success gently warming it with a heat gun and using a broom
handle to roll it up

BRANSOM wrote:

Looking for a prize for weird questions ....

Having bought a 1995 project, by now a few of the aluminum parts have

the

plastic coating baked on from storage in the original owner's Texas

barn. It

is impossible to peel off more than a square mm at a time, and even that

is

difficult. Has anyone else encountered this and found a better method

to get

the stuff off besides swearing?
-Ben

--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://wrayt.tripod.com/
My ICQ number is 29764664

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Yes, I found this one out the hard way with my previously owned 1997 kit.
Gentle application of a heat gone works pretty well

Al



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Just a thought on this plastic thing. How about WD-40? It works great on
removing stickers and such, it might work on the plastic. Curt N97MR



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But would you ever get paint to stick to it afterwards??

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebflyer@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: protective plastic removal

Just a thought on this plastic thing. How about WD-40? It works great on
removing stickers and such, it might work on the plastic. Curt N97MR

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Curt and all,
I tried that too -- no luck, although I may try soaking in it a little longer
(the parts, not me).

I was feeling pretty low yesterday on this whole thing ...spent 4 hours
cleaning up just a root rib (forward and rear pieces) and another piece.
Felt like the projected build time was doubling before my eyes. This
was "educational" tho, and I think will go faster now that I've figured a few
things out:

-Found that heat gun didn't help -- even made things worse on one piece.
-Found that Goof-off works okay, and best method is to soak the part for
~30min in a bath of the stuff. For some pieces, I made a shallow soak tray
out of aluminum foil. After soaking, I scraped with a well chamfered piece
2x3x.030"piece of 6061 -- leaves no scratches and doesn't soften from the
goof-off as a plastic scraper does. Some resoaking required. I may be
pushing up the stock price in Goof-off at this rate. ;)

Note also, this whole problem seems only to be with pieces that have a white
plastic coating. Those with the clear or blue-ish coating are no problem.
The odd thing is that the white coated pieces have small areas where the
plastic is completely flaked off -- these usually at bumps/bends made by the
factory press.
-Ben Ransom

-> Just a thought on this plastic thing. How about WD-40? It works great on
-> removing stickers and such, it might work on the plastic. Curt N97MR
->




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Ben go down to the local paint rental center and rent a steam wand used for
wall paper removal on building renovation projects. The little steam buggy's
you can buy might work but I 'm not sure of their steam heat output. The rental
units however will easily remove the plastic and if you hold it on the target
a bit longer it will remove the adhesive as well. Don't use any of the
supplied cleaning agents they will corrode the metal. Just use water. The steam
softens the plastic making it more flexible. The heat softens the bond and the
water contaminates the metal so the adhesive doesn't adhere to it on cooling. The
steam heat levels are not high enough to affect
the temper of the metal. Don't use a steam cleaner it will dent and mark the
metal. Goof off works great on small projects but is also dangerous in large
operations to say nothing of what it can do to your lungs. Careful, very
careful application of the same system can be used to remove plastic from acrylic
wind shields but can and has caused lexan to frost.
Grant.



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Goof off works great on small projects but is also dangerous in large
operations to say nothing of what it can do to your lungs. Careful, very
careful application of the same system can be used to remove plastic from
acrylic
wind shields but can and has caused lexan to frost.

Used drycleaning fluid and a preaser washer as stated to clean up my
windshield after it had set in front of a window getting sun baked for a year. Worked
good no afect to the lexan. BUT I would test on a small peice first,
Phil&Lisa Smith



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I had a nice surprise when I got home from work yesterday. I had left a part
in a covered AL pan that I had used for soaking parts the day before. All
the Goof-off had been poured back into a can, but there was a trace amount
still left in this pan from Sunday to Monday (24 hrs). The plastic coating
all but fell off for much of the part. Whooo Hooo!! Actually, I'll really
only celebrate after checking another part tonight, but things are definetly
looking up.

Grant -- I may yet find need to rent a steam wand. Have you tried this with
success on parts with very stuck coatings? If it is as good as you suggest,
it seems still preferrable to breathing Goof-off.

Phil,
Your mention of using dry cleaning fluid on the windshield. Do you mean it
had been sitting in the sunlight with the factory protective coating on it?
I've got mine wrapped up in room temp storage -- wondering if I should do
anything sooner than later to avoid trouble clearing off it's protective
coating.

Thanks all,
-Ben Ransom



-> Goof off works great on small projects but is also dangerous in large
-> operations to say nothing of what it can do to your lungs. Careful, very
-> careful application of the same system can be used to remove plastic from
-> acrylic
-> wind shields but can and has caused lexan to frost.
->
-> Used drycleaning fluid and a preaser washer as stated to clean up my
-> windshield after it had set in front of a window getting sun baked for a
year. Worked
-> good no afect to the lexan. BUT I would test on a small peice first,
-> Phil&Lisa Smith
->




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As for you windshield.....I just took one out of my box of 3 this morning
for trim and fit on the refurb I'm working on. Mfg early 2002 and just like
new thanks to being stored in the dark in a box. I also have a Moose Heavy
windshield under the bench.... covered with an orange tarp 2+ years now and
plastic is still easy to lift. Shouldn't be a concern for you unless it is
sitting out in the sun, which I just found to be a problem in my shop with
the new one I just plunked in place.... as my garage door tops are all
windows and the late day sun shines straight onto the windshield, that won't
be able to be uncovered until I get the retainer laid up etc. Never found so
many uses for tarps!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <bransom@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: protective plastic removal

I had a nice surprise when I got home from work yesterday. I had left a

part

in a covered AL pan that I had used for soaking parts the day before. All
the Goof-off had been poured back into a can, but there was a trace amount
still left in this pan from Sunday to Monday (24 hrs). The plastic

coating

all but fell off for much of the part. Whooo Hooo!! Actually, I'll

really

only celebrate after checking another part tonight, but things are

definetly

looking up.

Grant -- I may yet find need to rent a steam wand. Have you tried this

with

success on parts with very stuck coatings? If it is as good as you

suggest,

it seems still preferrable to breathing Goof-off.

Phil,
Your mention of using dry cleaning fluid on the windshield. Do you mean

it

had been sitting in the sunlight with the factory protective coating on

it?

I've got mine wrapped up in room temp storage -- wondering if I should do
anything sooner than later to avoid trouble clearing off it's protective
coating.

Thanks all,
-Ben Ransom



-> Goof off works great on small projects but is also dangerous in large
-> operations to say nothing of what it can do to your lungs. Careful,

very

-> careful application of the same system can be used to remove plastic

from

-> acrylic
-> wind shields but can and has caused lexan to frost.
->
-> Used drycleaning fluid and a preaser washer as stated to clean up my
-> windshield after it had set in front of a window getting sun baked for

a

year. Worked
-> good no afect to the lexan. BUT I would test on a small peice first,
-> Phil&Lisa Smith
->

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Phil, OK, thanks for that followup info.

BTW, on the Goof-off -- Yes, turns out soaking over night solves the problems
I had encountered (on the alumunimum protective plastic issue) -- still a
little bit of work, but *nothing* compared to the original trouble.
Again, thanks everybody!
-Ben

-> BEN
-> I was told by the factory that as long as it was coverd and not exposed to
-> sun light the sprayed on covering would be no problem. But as I had let
mine set
-> in sunlight and dry out or bake on that I could try drycleaning fluid to
-> soften it. That I wasn't the first to have this problem. And that they
(Murphy)
-> had not delt with it personaly, they were told by a builder that it worked
for
-> him and was worth a try. So I tried it and it worked for me. That's why I
said
-> test an area first.
->
-> Phil&Lisa Smith
-> N414D
->




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In a message dated 3/9/2004 3:21:39 PM Central Standard Time,
bransom@dcsol.com writes:
Phil,
Your mention of using dry cleaning fluid on the windshield. Do you mean it
had been sitting in the sunlight with the factory protective coating on it?
I've got mine wrapped up in room temp storage -- wondering if I should do
anything sooner than later to avoid trouble clearing off it's protective
coating.
BEN
I was told by the factory that as long as it was coverd and not exposed to
sun light the sprayed on covering would be no problem. But as I had let mine set
in sunlight and dry out or bake on that I could try drycleaning fluid to
soften it. That I wasn't the first to have this problem. And that they (Murphy)
had not delt with it personaly, they were told by a builder that it worked for
him and was worth a try. So I tried it and it worked for me. That's why I said
test an area first.

Phil&Lisa Smith
N414D



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Ben have you ever heard the following saying?
Give the laziest man the hardest job and he will find the easiest way to do
it.
I frequently use scrap Murphy material for my airboat components. Having
constructed a large set of foam filled, full flying rudders I had installed and
tested them prior to finial painting. Only when I went to remove the remaining
plastic that had done hundreds of daily sun cycles, did I realise how hard it
was going to be to get it off these now expensive parts. Being foam filled
rudders, solvents were no longer an option, nor was my standard trusty heat gun
treatment it's to hot. My wife was removing wall paper in the house with a
steamer. While she was doing her other assigned duties (making my supper) I
borrowed the steamer for a test on the rudders which went very well. Steamers are
the only way to remove vinyl wall paper without wrecking the underlying
material. Living 20 miles out of town didn't leave too many trip to the hardware store
options either. Anyway you now know how I happened on the solution it works
well.
Grant.



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