The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:00 am**

For those who have installed the nosebowl-style cowl on the Rebel/Elite,
here is a simple question:

To provide adequate clearance for the B&C 90 degree oil filter, it looks
like the top spine and skin will have to be only 5 inches wide. Is there
any problem making it this narrow? I could widen it, but it would then be
at least 14 inches for the hinge and angle to clear the filter. The manual
suggests 12 inches.

And a painting question. I was thinking about using the white Stits EP-420
epoxy primer as the base coat throughout. I wonder what people's
experiences with this have been. It would be nice to avoid a separate white
topcoat if possible.

Many thanks!

Jeffrey Steenson
Elite #714

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:00 am**

I don't see any reason why you can't make it narrower Jeffrey and that will
make servicing the filter without removing the top spine and that's a + !

Can't help too much with the paint question, other than you should use what
ever companies primer that you plan for a top coat of paint. Epoxy primer
will not suffice as a top coat if that is the way I am reading your
question.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Steenson" <jsteenson1@comcast.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 12:19 PM
Subject: Cowling Question

For those who have installed the nosebowl-style cowl on the Rebel/Elite,
here is a simple question:

To provide adequate clearance for the B&C 90 degree oil filter, it looks
like the top spine and skin will have to be only 5 inches wide. Is there
any problem making it this narrow? I could widen it, but it would then be
at least 14 inches for the hinge and angle to clear the filter. The

manual

suggests 12 inches.

And a painting question. I was thinking about using the white Stits

EP-420

epoxy primer as the base coat throughout. I wonder what people's
experiences with this have been. It would be nice to avoid a separate

white

topcoat if possible.

Many thanks!

Jeffrey Steenson
Elite #714

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:00 am**

Hi Jeffrey !

Don't think the width of the top channel is critical - use whatever
suits you. One builder widened it to use as an air duct, taking tubes off
the back to cool the mags.

I know of one Rebel Builder who used the white Stits as his final
outside base coat, just adding coloured trim !! Still looks ok ...

.....bobp

----------------------------orig.-------------------
On Sunday 29 February 2004 12:19 pm, you wrote:

For those who have installed the nosebowl-style cowl on the Rebel/Elite,
here is a simple question:

To provide adequate clearance for the B&C 90 degree oil filter, it looks
like the top spine and skin will have to be only 5 inches wide. Is there
any problem making it this narrow? I could widen it, but it would then be
at least 14 inches for the hinge and angle to clear the filter. The manual
suggests 12 inches.

And a painting question. I was thinking about using the white Stits EP-420
epoxy primer as the base coat throughout. I wonder what people's
experiences with this have been. It would be nice to avoid a separate white
topcoat if possible.

Many thanks!

Jeffrey Steenson
Elite #714

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:00 am**

Dear Bob,

Thanks so much for your assistance here. I sure am hoping that the extra
effort to build this cowling over the speed cowl will be worth it.

By the way, for those who have been frustrated with shipping support from
Murphy, I do have a happy experience to share. They sent me a Super Rebel
windshield by mistake -- which I only discovered two years after the fact
when I opened the box. Colleen arranged for the right windshield to be
shipped out from Aero Plastics, with no hassles or extra cost. Maybe it
helps to send flowers!

I was impressed with how well this windshield fits. I was concerned about
the problem of keeping the front edge behind the firewall of an Elite, but
even without trimming, it is just behind the flange.

Best wishes,

Jeffrey

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Cowling Question

Hi Jeffrey !

Don't think the width of the top channel is critical - use whatever
suits you. One builder widened it to use as an air duct, taking tubes off
the back to cool the mags.

I know of one Rebel Builder who used the white Stits as his final
outside base coat, just adding coloured trim !! Still looks ok ...

.....bobp

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:04 am**

Hello Jeffrey!
If I understand your question about paint, epoxy paint should never be use
as a top coat. After couples of month paint will start to come dull.
Corrosion resistance of the epoxy primer/paint is very goog but resistance
to UV is minimal (for the finish). Have a look of Sico aircraft paint!
Very good price and design for aircraft! But no matter which paint you use,
follow the manufacturer recommandation! Always! Do not listen the "bla bla
bla", and their miracle recipe. Good luck
Jean
Rebel 747R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: Cowling Question

I don't see any reason why you can't make it narrower Jeffrey and that

will

make servicing the filter without removing the top spine and that's a + !

Can't help too much with the paint question, other than you should use

what

ever companies primer that you plan for a top coat of paint. Epoxy primer
will not suffice as a top coat if that is the way I am reading your
question.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Steenson" <jsteenson1@comcast.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 12:19 PM
Subject: Cowling Question

For those who have installed the nosebowl-style cowl on the Rebel/Elite,
here is a simple question:

To provide adequate clearance for the B&C 90 degree oil filter, it looks
like the top spine and skin will have to be only 5 inches wide. Is

there

any problem making it this narrow? I could widen it, but it would then

be

at least 14 inches for the hinge and angle to clear the filter. The
manual
suggests 12 inches.

And a painting question. I was thinking about using the white Stits
EP-420
epoxy primer as the base coat throughout. I wonder what people's
experiences with this have been. It would be nice to avoid a separate
white
topcoat if possible.

Many thanks!

Jeffrey Steenson
Elite #714

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:58 am**

Hey Cecil, a good starting "rule of thumb" is 1.5 times your inlet area for
your outlet... so 100 sq inches of inlet would require 150 sq inches of
outlet. Higher performance aircraft like the Mustang II have a different
rule of thumb... have you ever seen how small the inlet holes on a Lancair V
are? When you're going as slow as we do, you need more inlet, and a higher
ratio of outlet.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Murphy Builders meeting - Brampton

I'm currently building a 4 door cowl for my Rebel. I have the MC-3B nose
bowl, have completed the top and 2 sides the top doors are already in
template form.
I'm having trouble with the lower, due to where my exhaust is for mounting
the hinge.
The question: Is there a formula to figure out the size of the opening to
allow the right amount of air out.
The only thing I have found is on a Mustang II, he used the outlet was 75%
of the inlet.
Does this sound right????
The openings on the MC=3B total aprox 110 square inches. Thinking I'll
have
to leave the bottom hanging down 4-5 inches. with 1-2 inches past the
firewall and a 20deg. lip down.
Previously I had the "speed "cowl. The ch. temp was ok 375-400 but the oil
temp was 220-240 in normal flight this is in 22-24 deg. weather, not sure
what it will be like in warmer weather or on long flights, the longest so
far is 2 hours.
Thanks for the help
Cecil 014r

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:01 am**

thanks for the response.
It's going to be a pretty big opening in the bottom. the holes in the nose
are rather large.
hope they force more air through the oil cooler.
Cecil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:56 PM
Subject: Cowling question

Hey Cecil, a good starting "rule of thumb" is 1.5 times your inlet area

for

your outlet... so 100 sq inches of inlet would require 150 sq inches of
outlet. Higher performance aircraft like the Mustang II have a different
rule of thumb... have you ever seen how small the inlet holes on a Lancair

V

are? When you're going as slow as we do, you need more inlet, and a

higher

ratio of outlet.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Murphy Builders meeting - Brampton

I'm currently building a 4 door cowl for my Rebel. I have the MC-3B nose
bowl, have completed the top and 2 sides the top doors are already in
template form.
I'm having trouble with the lower, due to where my exhaust is for

mounting

the hinge.
The question: Is there a formula to figure out the size of the opening

to

allow the right amount of air out.
The only thing I have found is on a Mustang II, he used the outlet was

75%

of the inlet.
Does this sound right????
The openings on the MC=3B total aprox 110 square inches. Thinking I'll
have
to leave the bottom hanging down 4-5 inches. with 1-2 inches past the
firewall and a 20deg. lip down.
Previously I had the "speed "cowl. The ch. temp was ok 375-400 but the

oil

temp was 220-240 in normal flight this is in 22-24 deg. weather, not

sure

what it will be like in warmer weather or on long flights, the longest

so

far is 2 hours.
Thanks for the help
Cecil 014r

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:01 am**

As Bobp pointed out, if you extend your cowl opening down about 6 inches
below the bottom of the fuselage, you'll get a lot of exit area. I think
the pics where lost last May, but there were pics in the archive of someone
who had modified the bottom of the speed cowling to make an enormous exit
area, and solved all his cooling problems. If I recall, I think this was
one of the Pacific Northwest Rebels... maybe we can get those pics uploaded
again.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: Cowling question

thanks for the response.
It's going to be a pretty big opening in the bottom. the holes in the nose
are rather large.
hope they force more air through the oil cooler.
Cecil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:56 PM
Subject: Cowling question

Hey Cecil, a good starting "rule of thumb" is 1.5 times your inlet area
for
your outlet... so 100 sq inches of inlet would require 150 sq inches of
outlet. Higher performance aircraft like the Mustang II have a different
rule of thumb... have you ever seen how small the inlet holes on a
Lancair
V
are? When you're going as slow as we do, you need more inlet, and a
higher
ratio of outlet.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Murphy Builders meeting - Brampton

I'm currently building a 4 door cowl for my Rebel. I have the MC-3B
nose
bowl, have completed the top and 2 sides the top doors are already in
template form.
I'm having trouble with the lower, due to where my exhaust is for
mounting
the hinge.
The question: Is there a formula to figure out the size of the opening
to
allow the right amount of air out.
The only thing I have found is on a Mustang II, he used the outlet was
75%
of the inlet.
Does this sound right????
The openings on the MC=3B total aprox 110 square inches. Thinking I'll
have
to leave the bottom hanging down 4-5 inches. with 1-2 inches past the
firewall and a 20deg. lip down.
Previously I had the "speed "cowl. The ch. temp was ok 375-400 but the
oil
temp was 220-240 in normal flight this is in 22-24 deg. weather, not
sure
what it will be like in warmer weather or on long flights, the longest
so
far is 2 hours.
Thanks for the help
Cecil 014r

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:01 am**

That might have been mine. I had great big bottom openings to get
my cooling adequate. Then this past year, I also modified the top
cowl to make my inlets bigger, and no more cooling problems for
me. When I get some time again, I may redo my bottoms to make
them smaller and more streamlined again, as with my bigger
inlets, I don't need as much exit area. Sure is nice to climb
straight up, full power, all the way to 10,000+ feet in the
hottest summer weather (35C+) without my CHT's or oil getting too
hot.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 7:15 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Cowling question

As Bobp pointed out, if you extend your cowl opening
down about 6 inches
below the bottom of the fuselage, you'll get a lot of
exit area. I think
the pics where lost last May, but there were pics in
the archive of someone
who had modified the bottom of the speed cowling to
make an enormous exit
area, and solved all his cooling problems. If I
recall, I think this was
one of the Pacific Northwest Rebels... maybe we can
get those pics uploaded
again.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: Cowling question

thanks for the response.
It's going to be a pretty big opening in the bottom.
the holes in the nose
are rather large.
hope they force more air through the oil cooler.
Cecil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:56 PM
Subject: Cowling question

Hey Cecil, a good starting "rule of thumb" is 1.5
times your inlet area
for
your outlet... so 100 sq inches of inlet would
require 150 sq inches of
outlet. Higher performance aircraft like the
Mustang II have a different
rule of thumb... have you ever seen how small the
inlet holes on a
Lancair
V
are? When you're going as slow as we do, you need
more inlet, and a
higher
ratio of outlet.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Murphy Builders meeting - Brampton

Rebel. I have the MC-3B
doors are already in
my exhaust is for
mounting
the size of the opening
to
he used the outlet was
75%
inches. Thinking I'll
1-2 inches past the
was ok 375-400 but the
oil
22-24 deg. weather, not
sure
flights, the longest
so

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:01 am**

That's Walter with the J-Lo cowling!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Cowling question

As Bobp pointed out, if you extend your cowl opening down about 6 inches
below the bottom of the fuselage, you'll get a lot of exit area. I think
the pics where lost last May, but there were pics in the archive of

someone

who had modified the bottom of the speed cowling to make an enormous exit
area, and solved all his cooling problems. If I recall, I think this was
one of the Pacific Northwest Rebels... maybe we can get those pics

uploaded

again.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: Cowling question

thanks for the response.
It's going to be a pretty big opening in the bottom. the holes in the

nose

are rather large.
hope they force more air through the oil cooler.
Cecil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:56 PM
Subject: Cowling question

Hey Cecil, a good starting "rule of thumb" is 1.5 times your inlet area
for
your outlet... so 100 sq inches of inlet would require 150 sq inches of
outlet. Higher performance aircraft like the Mustang II have a

different

rule of thumb... have you ever seen how small the inlet holes on a
Lancair
V
are? When you're going as slow as we do, you need more inlet, and a
higher
ratio of outlet.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Murphy Builders meeting - Brampton

mounting

opening

to

was

75%

I'll

the

oil
sure

longest

so

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:01 am**

Yea, Walter, I can testify to that! I thought I was going to burst into
flames trying to keep up with your climb out at 700 Mile house last summer.

Bruce

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