wet wings.

[Mike Rapoport]

I can't speak from the perspective of having constructed an airplane as my
Moose fast build kit is still several months away but I would point out that
the weight of a wet wing tank is the weight of the sealant and the fittings.
A wet wing also provides the maximium fuel capacity and it is easy to see
any leaks that might develope. There is also a certain engineering elegance
to having components perform multiple tasks.

Mike
Moose #241

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: wet wings.

Thanks for the replies lads. Another question, please. Does anyone have an

opinion if

a wet wing is superior or inferior to a welded aluminum wing tank? I just

heard a person

say that a wet wing would ultimately hold more fuel than a welded tank fit

into the same

space and that sure makes good sense. What I'm getting at is, if space was

not too much

a consideration and a person had the skills to weld a tank together, what

would be the

best route to follow? Thanks.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 6:04 PM
Subject: wet wings

The Pro Sealing is one of those things best looked back on and not
forward to. However, it is not as bad as you expect. Be sure the
surfaces are scrupulosly clean and Scotchbrited. Be sure gap filler
plates at the stringers and any other penetration fit as closely as
reasonably possible. Mix accurately. Mix only as much as can be used
before setup. Setup occurs much faster as temperature rises above 70
degrees F. Wear old clothes. Wear latex gloves. Use 1/2" stiff
brushes to spread material as well as small spoons. Have a helper who
knows how to help. Remember, no tank ever leaked from too much Pro
Seal. Think the sequence of work through before opening the Pro Seal
container. Get a can of acetone for Pro Sealed clecoes. Use still
wires to maintain rib and filler plate alignment as parts are brought
together. Use a coat of "brush grade" Pro Seal in the "tub" after
initial assembly. Be sure that Pro Seal does not form a dam between the
root rib and stringer preventing complete water sumping.

The brush grade Pro Seal is a lighter viscosity that can be brushed
rather than the "peanut butter" consistency. Some have advocated
thinning the thicker material with MEK but I chose to order rather than
chance changing the chemistry. Do not put more than 2-3 pounds of
pressure at a max for leak tests. 1 1/2 pounds will show leaks. I
found that a stethoscope with a tube would hiss at any leak and the 2
that we had were where they could be found this way. I do recommend
that prevention is the best course.

The penetrations, such as at the stringers, are closed with .020
aluminum made to suit and riveted in placed with Pro Seal. A search of
the archives will turn up more commentary than one would imagine as
well.
Ralph Baker

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[David Stroud]

Thanks for the replies lads. Another question, please. Does anyone have an opinion if
a wet wing is superior or inferior to a welded aluminum wing tank? I just heard a person
say that a wet wing would ultimately hold more fuel than a welded tank fit into the same
space and that sure makes good sense. What I'm getting at is, if space was not too much
a consideration and a person had the skills to weld a tank together, what would be the
best route to follow? Thanks.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 6:04 PM
Subject: wet wings

The Pro Sealing is one of those things best looked back on and not
forward to. However, it is not as bad as you expect. Be sure the
surfaces are scrupulosly clean and Scotchbrited. Be sure gap filler
plates at the stringers and any other penetration fit as closely as
reasonably possible. Mix accurately. Mix only as much as can be used
before setup. Setup occurs much faster as temperature rises above 70
degrees F. Wear old clothes. Wear latex gloves. Use 1/2" stiff
brushes to spread material as well as small spoons. Have a helper who
knows how to help. Remember, no tank ever leaked from too much Pro
Seal. Think the sequence of work through before opening the Pro Seal
container. Get a can of acetone for Pro Sealed clecoes. Use still
wires to maintain rib and filler plate alignment as parts are brought
together. Use a coat of "brush grade" Pro Seal in the "tub" after
initial assembly. Be sure that Pro Seal does not form a dam between the
root rib and stringer preventing complete water sumping.

The brush grade Pro Seal is a lighter viscosity that can be brushed
rather than the "peanut butter" consistency. Some have advocated
thinning the thicker material with MEK but I chose to order rather than
chance changing the chemistry. Do not put more than 2-3 pounds of
pressure at a max for leak tests. 1 1/2 pounds will show leaks. I
found that a stethoscope with a tube would hiss at any leak and the 2
that we had were where they could be found this way. I do recommend
that prevention is the best course.

The penetrations, such as at the stringers, are closed with .020
aluminum made to suit and riveted in placed with Pro Seal. A search of
the archives will turn up more commentary than one would imagine as
well.
Ralph Baker


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[Warren Montgomery]

Actually it's better if filler plates at stringers not to tight as
proseal can be filleted from both sides and bond to each other. BobP
pointed this out in the past.
On my first wing I went to a lot of trouble to make tight and although
worked was a waste of time. Sencond time around I made for a looser fit
and went quicker with a better bond.
Warren

Be sure gap filler plates at the stringers and any other penetration fit as closely as
reasonably possible.

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