The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am**

NO, we got lucky and that storm is heading out to sea I believe after it's
done beating up the eastern USA. We do have freezing rain coming in for
Tuesday night though it appears and more snow for Wednesday, so most likely
just a little residual from the big storm to the South East of us.

I installed my wheel skis on Friday (after doing my annual on Thursday).
Takes me about 20 to 25 minutes to put them on and then be off flying (which
I did for a few hours!).

Depending on how "disconnect" friendly you make your float installation
you're looking anywhere from a partial up to a full 8 hour day to drop the
floats and then to put your wheel gear/tail wheel back on, bleed brakes and
be ready to go again. Longer going the other way a bit, as you'll most
likely be bleeding more hydraulic lines going back to floats.

Straight skis, if they have already been rigged from the previous year is
just a matter of pulling the wheels off and safety wiring a spacer in
between your brake caliper pads. Then slipping the ski/spacers on the axle,
put the nut back on and hook the cables up to the attach fittings from the
previous year. A first time rigging..ie: making attach brackets,
cutting/nico pressing cables to length, bungees/springs will take you the
better part of 4or 5 hours.

Hope that helps some,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Float strut material

Wayne,

I hear the parts of the North East are getting as much as 3 and 4 feet of
snow fall. Did you receive that much snow fall? How long does it take to

remove

the wheels or floats and mount your ski's on the Rebel?

Bruce

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am**

Can you expound on "disconnect friendly." I imagine universal joints for
hydraulic lines, but is there other issues I should be considering?

Bruce

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am**

No you don't have to go to that extreme Bruce, but you could if you can find
a suitable quick disconnect fitting to use. Hard to find something small
enough that still has a big enough orifice. I see too many installations
that require cutting lines to get things off. If you follow MAM's
instructions they have you run the lines up through the corner wraps to
behind the panel without a joint!. I drop the tees below the floor boards
(to the outside of the fuselage) for an easy disconnect, and a few spare
nuts and some ball bearings (from Hartzell c/s prop thrust bearing size is
perfect!) can be used to plug them off (or with some planning a joiner to
connect the two lines. Also give some thoughts to using the same lines for
some hydraulic wheel skis! With the brake lines you can either put a
bulkhead fitting at the fuselage(but VERY space limited with line coming out
of the forward gear strut) or run new lines right up to the brake pedal
cylinders. This is what I do and when I get the floats dropped far enough
down I pull the entire brake line out and then install the wheel gear
running it's own full length brake line right up to the pedal cylinders and
then bleed by filling with Dextron III from the bottom (caliper bleed screw)
with a 12v windshield washer pump or a squirt can.

Make sure your water rudder cables can be disconnected between the rear
float struts and the fuselage, as well as a quick disconnect ring/climbers
clef on the water rudder retract cables. You can rivet the cable guides to
the side of the fuselage and just tie up the cables while on wheels, but the
slickest is to use anchor nuts or riv-nuts for the two or three guides on
each side of the fuselage and then you can just unscrew them and take them
right off in the fall.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel change over to skis/wheels/floats

Can you expound on "disconnect friendly." I imagine universal joints for

hydraulic lines, but is there other issues I should be considering?

Bruce

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Posted: **Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am**

Guys

Don't know if they have a good size for the lines but you might want to have a
look at small, quick-disconnect fittings from Beswick. I have a sample here
that is less than 3/8" dia and intended for air use. It is one side sealing,
P/N QDL-101. They say they can provide fittings with EPDM O-rings (which are
good for brake fluid), don't know how that would work for the hydraulic fluid
for the floats/brakes.

The site is http://www.beswick.com.

Cheers,

Dave

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

No you don't have to go to that extreme Bruce, but you could if you can find
a suitable quick disconnect fitting to use. Hard to find something small
enough that still has a big enough orifice. I see too many installations
that require cutting lines to get things off. If you follow MAM's
instructions they have you run the lines up through the corner wraps to
behind the panel without a joint!. I drop the tees below the floor boards
(to the outside of the fuselage) for an easy disconnect, and a few spare
nuts and some ball bearings (from Hartzell c/s prop thrust bearing size is
perfect!) can be used to plug them off (or with some planning a joiner to
connect the two lines. Also give some thoughts to using the same lines for
some hydraulic wheel skis! With the brake lines you can either put a
bulkhead fitting at the fuselage(but VERY space limited with line coming out
of the forward gear strut) or run new lines right up to the brake pedal
cylinders. This is what I do and when I get the floats dropped far enough
down I pull the entire brake line out and then install the wheel gear
running it's own full length brake line right up to the pedal cylinders and
then bleed by filling with Dextron III from the bottom (caliper bleed screw)
with a 12v windshield washer pump or a squirt can.

Make sure your water rudder cables can be disconnected between the rear
float struts and the fuselage, as well as a quick disconnect ring/climbers
clef on the water rudder retract cables. You can rivet the cable guides to
the side of the fuselage and just tie up the cables while on wheels, but the
slickest is to use anchor nuts or riv-nuts for the two or three guides on
each side of the fuselage and then you can just unscrew them and take them
right off in the fall.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@aol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel change over to skis/wheels/floats

Can you expound on "disconnect friendly." I imagine universal joints for

hydraulic lines, but is there other issues I should be considering?

Bruce

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada

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