SR/Moose stabilizer tip reinforce and Stab hold down bracket
Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
Did some checking this weekend on the stabilizer bulkhead on our quick build
and did not find any doublers or reinforcements added to the bulkhead.
Would this be a good idea to add? ? ? Should anything else be added to this
area if I have to take it apart? ? ?
If I recall a few months back there was some talk about this but, can't seem
to find it in the past listings. Any suggestions on where to look for the
info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve H
Moose 213
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:12 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: SR/Moose stabilizer tip reinforce and Stab hold down bracket.
Wes,
As far as I know they didn't put a SB out on this one or the cracking on
the forward stabilizer hold down bracket side flanges. I found both of
these at the Arlington airshow two years ago (the new rivets hadn't been
painted to match the rest of the plane). If you ask they will tell you but
how are you to know if you don't hear it from someone...go figure. Anyway
seem to think it is an isolated problem caused by the radial with an out of
balance prop. They put an angle behind the outboard stab hinge that wrapped
around and goes forward up the last rib a few inches. I think I posted a
picture to the archives.
The stabilizer deal I am talking about are the flanges on the sides of the
bulkhead that the forward stab bracket and the forward tail wheel stinger is
mounted to ( the two vertical rivet rows on each side). The flanges had
cracking. The guy who did the work (can not remember who it was) said he
thought it was from the "large" tail wheel they had just put on (Elite nose
wheel) putting large side loads. He put doublers on each side.
I removed that whole bulkhead and added doublers on both sides (while I had
it out I installed rudder cable pulleys so the cable can come out straight
to the rudder arms, see Ron's I copied his), Steve Rhodes did one better
and remade the whole bulked and tail stinger bracket into a one piece welded
aluminum unit.
Gotta run, but remembering we also added a horizontal piece just above the
bottom tail wrap to give more side load strength and brought the fin spar
caps all the way down and wrapped under the rear tail stinger attach
bracket. (Also on Ron's)
I suspect that is as clear as mud..
Scott
Moose 174
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Wes
& Bobbi Jo Erb
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:57 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Hinge bushings
Hi Steve---
At Steve Rhodes suggestion, I put in 3/8" OD bushings on all the elev /
horizontal stab hinges. Seems another Moose flying had the holes wallow out
a bit. I used flanged bushings on the elev brackets, and straight bushings
on the horizontal stab that would just fit in between the elev brackets. I
had to remove the elev brackets to drill out, but you could probably do it
with a 90 degree drill if you wanted to open up the leading edge skin again.
I put some LocTite around the bushings to keep them from turning with the
bolt (4-11s) but don't know if that will hold it or not. As far as the
manual goes, I'm using it for philosophical guidance and a doorstop.....
Scott, this reinforcing the outboard elevator rib is news to me... Is
there a SB I missed?
Wes Erb
Moose #208
Chugiak, AK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: Hinge bushings
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and did not find any doublers or reinforcements added to the bulkhead.
Would this be a good idea to add? ? ? Should anything else be added to this
area if I have to take it apart? ? ?
If I recall a few months back there was some talk about this but, can't seem
to find it in the past listings. Any suggestions on where to look for the
info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve H
Moose 213
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Scott & Leere' Aldrich
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:12 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: SR/Moose stabilizer tip reinforce and Stab hold down bracket.
Wes,
As far as I know they didn't put a SB out on this one or the cracking on
the forward stabilizer hold down bracket side flanges. I found both of
these at the Arlington airshow two years ago (the new rivets hadn't been
painted to match the rest of the plane). If you ask they will tell you but
how are you to know if you don't hear it from someone...go figure. Anyway
seem to think it is an isolated problem caused by the radial with an out of
balance prop. They put an angle behind the outboard stab hinge that wrapped
around and goes forward up the last rib a few inches. I think I posted a
picture to the archives.
The stabilizer deal I am talking about are the flanges on the sides of the
bulkhead that the forward stab bracket and the forward tail wheel stinger is
mounted to ( the two vertical rivet rows on each side). The flanges had
cracking. The guy who did the work (can not remember who it was) said he
thought it was from the "large" tail wheel they had just put on (Elite nose
wheel) putting large side loads. He put doublers on each side.
I removed that whole bulkhead and added doublers on both sides (while I had
it out I installed rudder cable pulleys so the cable can come out straight
to the rudder arms, see Ron's I copied his), Steve Rhodes did one better
and remade the whole bulked and tail stinger bracket into a one piece welded
aluminum unit.
Gotta run, but remembering we also added a horizontal piece just above the
bottom tail wrap to give more side load strength and brought the fin spar
caps all the way down and wrapped under the rear tail stinger attach
bracket. (Also on Ron's)
I suspect that is as clear as mud..
Scott
Moose 174
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Wes
& Bobbi Jo Erb
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:57 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Hinge bushings
Hi Steve---
At Steve Rhodes suggestion, I put in 3/8" OD bushings on all the elev /
horizontal stab hinges. Seems another Moose flying had the holes wallow out
a bit. I used flanged bushings on the elev brackets, and straight bushings
on the horizontal stab that would just fit in between the elev brackets. I
had to remove the elev brackets to drill out, but you could probably do it
with a 90 degree drill if you wanted to open up the leading edge skin again.
I put some LocTite around the bushings to keep them from turning with the
bolt (4-11s) but don't know if that will hold it or not. As far as the
manual goes, I'm using it for philosophical guidance and a doorstop.....
Scott, this reinforcing the outboard elevator rib is news to me... Is
there a SB I missed?
Wes Erb
Moose #208
Chugiak, AK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Leere' Aldrich" <flynski@mwutah.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: Hinge bushings
theSteve, FWIW we put brass bushings in all the elevator/stab and rudder/fin
hinges. The outboard elevator hinged wear rather quickly without them.
Did you get the information on reinforcing the outboard elevator rib to
fullrear elevator spar were the outboard hinge attaches? Did they supply a
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*length rear elevator spar channel or L's to make the channel, or still the
short ones?
Scott
Moose 174
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Steve Halvorsen
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 4:55 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: REBEL - Elevator and Rudder Spar tube construction
Hay Wayne:
Just finished assembling our elevator and stab and was trying to assemble
the two together as per instructions in our manual and it does NOT say
anything about any bushings to be fitted into the hinge between the two.
The holes in both parts are 1/4" dia. for a AN4-10 bolt to go thru.
Should there be a bushing in there for the parts to pivot on? ? ? Our kit
didn't even have any AN4-10's and when I contacted Brian about not having
any in the kit he said that the 10's were to short and that to use -11's.
This kit was only delivered a month ago.
Should there be bushings in ALL the control pivot points so that the Alum
brackets don't wear out? ? ? ?
Just really started to assemble our Moose and am beginning to wonder if I
should use the manual just for "REFERENCE ONLY" and construct as I believe
it should be put together. Manual leaves a lot to be desired. I know I'm
kicking a dead horse on that one.
Steve H
Moose 213
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