Page 1 of 1

fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by klehman
Thanks for the pic Wayne.

At least there are reasonable solutions for much of this if one chooses
to go the extra mile. I'm pretty sure that down to -6 bulkhead fittings
are acceptable in aluminum on the firewall but I can''t seem to find the
reference.

I'd like to find an equivalent for the asbestos packing/washers that
used to be used to protect grommets in the firewall. I'll try the
fibrefrax ceramic cloth for that unless someone has a better idea. The
metal swivel (or non swivel) throttle cable passthroughs are nice but
something cheaper might be even nicer ;)

Another weird one I've noticed is the use of 5/8" hardware store nylon
plumbing fittings on water cooled engines to cabin heaters and such. At
operating temperature they lose more than half what strength they had
let alone if an overheat occurs.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Ken, dug through my pics and the lip I put on Fullers actually sticks out 1
1/2" to pick up the windshield retainer and still leave enough lip for the
cowling to sit on, but the windshield itself would not sit out past the
original firewall stainless lip.

Your totally right about all the places that fire could enter the cockpit,
but I was just spelling out the firewall integrity of the lip itself. The
problem of this "fireproof" firewall and it's associated fittings, where
does the inspector/builder stop making it a sealed unit. It used to be
alright to put primer lines etc through grommets so there wasn't all those
extra fittings to leak/buy etc. Now some inspectors snag you if you don't
have bulkhead fittings (and they must be steel if under 1/2" I believe it is
(don' t quote me), but it's still just fine to run the throttle, mixture and
carb heat cables through a grommet, so what's the difference??. What's next,
are they going to expect everyone to put $$$ MIL spec Canon connectors on
all the wiring as well, like in a military installations (as my UTVA's
have). Next all of our heat box controls are going to have to be stainless
and either way it's a gapping 2" hole through the firewall.

Ever look at a Kitfox/Avid flyer? The fiberglass cowling is what closes off
the entire top section of the firewall from the cabin. Could never figure
out how they could pass something like this, and in the next heartbeat
ground Toby/George's because it had an aluminum firewall and then after the
fiberfax installation they still questioned the glue they used to install
same!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Windshield hanging over firewall lip - Rebel/Elite


Wayne you got the shelf even smaller than me then. My shelf is not
permanently rivetted in yet because I made the first one out of aluminum
for easy fitting/trimming and sorting out how to do it. I figured I'd
end up making it more than once anyway. I have stainless sheet metal
here for it, but I will likely just add a little ceramic firecloth as I
am having trouble motivating myself to install the stainless. In my mind
the windshield and 0.020 cowl top are both very little protection from
fire anyway and ceramic cloth is supposed to be acceptable. I'm sure
Curt would add that yes seconds do matter when it comes to fire so I'll
do something there. Then there are the two shelf support brackets which
should probably be stainless as well. rivets?

The inspector also recommended covering the firewall flanges with red
silicone where they rivet to the to the aluminum skins. Seems a bit
Mickey Mouse but better than nothing I guess. I'll at least use
itumescent caulk there.

Then there are all those 2" aluminum cabin heat control valves.
Stainless valves are available but usually I see aluminum ones installed
and we can guess how long that will keep a fire out of the cockpit. Well
maybe a few seconds longer than the big nylon electric wire passthrough
grommets that are becoming popular. I've elected to use 1.25" inch
stainless bathroom grab handle elbows with firesleeve as per Bob
Knuckoll's recommendation for the wires. OK I'm venting a bit but it
seems that most firewalls look to be there to survive a quick glance
from the inspector rather than be effective for slowing a fire...

Ken


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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by Legeorgen
Ken,

To replace an asbestos washer or SS firewall grommet you can cut a 1/2" piece
of ABS pipe and tape it to the firewall over your primer line, cable or what
ever you want to fire proof seal. Fill this with high temperature RTV. There
is a picture in the archives under Rebel/engines/neat and easy firewall
grommet.

Bruce

P.s.p.s. Don't forget to remove the tape



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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by klehman
Found it and it is indeed a neat idea ;)
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/fil ... CN0255.JPG
Ken

Legeorgen@aol.com wrote:
Ken,

To replace an asbestos washer or SS firewall grommet you can cut a 1/2" piece
of ABS pipe and tape it to the firewall over your primer line, cable or what
ever you want to fire proof seal. Fill this with high temperature RTV. There
is a picture in the archives under Rebel/engines/neat and easy firewall
grommet.

Bruce

P.s.p.s. Don't forget to remove the tape

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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by Wayne G. O'Shea
There doesn't seem to be any reference to the size that can be alum/vs steel
and all we could get out of the MDRA Chief inspector (Jamie) during the Tech
Advisor series was that some aluminum fittings have enough mass to hold off
melting for a suitable period of time, but smaller fittings must be steel so
they don't melt (wouldn't commit to a - size, some help aye!). This is a
problem with inspectors as they all have their own feelings on what is
acceptable. I know at least one (that does our area) that wanted every
fitting to be Steel, firewall forward. Still some personal opinions from
inspectors in the field, so I would suggest that whom ever did your preclose
is most likely going to be the one doing your final, so call him up and get
his opinions before you spend money and install stuff!

The metal swivel balls look neat, but I know in a lot of the installations I
have seen/done the cable is curving as it comes through the panel so unless
you split the ball and machined a new curved hole they wouldn't work. If you
can use them though would be ideal fire stop though wouldn't it!!

I hear you on the plastic fittings. They're just so easy to obtain and
install, although as you say probably not a good choice!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 8:54 AM
Subject: fireproof firewalls

Thanks for the pic Wayne.

At least there are reasonable solutions for much of this if one chooses
to go the extra mile. I'm pretty sure that down to -6 bulkhead fittings
are acceptable in aluminum on the firewall but I can''t seem to find the
reference.

I'd like to find an equivalent for the asbestos packing/washers that
used to be used to protect grommets in the firewall. I'll try the
fibrefrax ceramic cloth for that unless someone has a better idea. The
metal swivel (or non swivel) throttle cable passthroughs are nice but
something cheaper might be even nicer ;)

Another weird one I've noticed is the use of 5/8" hardware store nylon
plumbing fittings on water cooled engines to cabin heaters and such. At
operating temperature they lose more than half what strength they had
let alone if an overheat occurs.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Ken, dug through my pics and the lip I put on Fullers actually sticks
out 1
1/2" to pick up the windshield retainer and still leave enough lip for
the
cowling to sit on, but the windshield itself would not sit out past the
original firewall stainless lip.

Your totally right about all the places that fire could enter the
cockpit,
but I was just spelling out the firewall integrity of the lip itself.
The
problem of this "fireproof" firewall and it's associated fittings, where
does the inspector/builder stop making it a sealed unit. It used to be
alright to put primer lines etc through grommets so there wasn't all
those
extra fittings to leak/buy etc. Now some inspectors snag you if you
don't
have bulkhead fittings (and they must be steel if under 1/2" I believe
it is
(don' t quote me), but it's still just fine to run the throttle, mixture
and
carb heat cables through a grommet, so what's the difference??. What's
next,
are they going to expect everyone to put $$$ MIL spec Canon connectors
on
all the wiring as well, like in a military installations (as my UTVA's
have). Next all of our heat box controls are going to have to be
stainless
and either way it's a gapping 2" hole through the firewall.

Ever look at a Kitfox/Avid flyer? The fiberglass cowling is what closes
off
the entire top section of the firewall from the cabin. Could never
figure
out how they could pass something like this, and in the next heartbeat
ground Toby/George's because it had an aluminum firewall and then after
the
fiberfax installation they still questioned the glue they used to
install
same!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Windshield hanging over firewall lip - Rebel/Elite


Wayne you got the shelf even smaller than me then. My shelf is not
permanently rivetted in yet because I made the first one out of aluminum
for easy fitting/trimming and sorting out how to do it. I figured I'd
end up making it more than once anyway. I have stainless sheet metal
here for it, but I will likely just add a little ceramic firecloth as I
am having trouble motivating myself to install the stainless. In my mind
the windshield and 0.020 cowl top are both very little protection from
fire anyway and ceramic cloth is supposed to be acceptable. I'm sure
Curt would add that yes seconds do matter when it comes to fire so I'll
do something there. Then there are the two shelf support brackets which
should probably be stainless as well. rivets?

The inspector also recommended covering the firewall flanges with red
silicone where they rivet to the to the aluminum skins. Seems a bit
Mickey Mouse but better than nothing I guess. I'll at least use
itumescent caulk there.

Then there are all those 2" aluminum cabin heat control valves.
Stainless valves are available but usually I see aluminum ones installed
and we can guess how long that will keep a fire out of the cockpit. Well
maybe a few seconds longer than the big nylon electric wire passthrough
grommets that are becoming popular. I've elected to use 1.25" inch
stainless bathroom grab handle elbows with firesleeve as per Bob
Knuckoll's recommendation for the wires. OK I'm venting a bit but it
seems that most firewalls look to be there to survive a quick glance
from the inspector rather than be effective for slowing a fire...

Ken


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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by Dale Kilbey
What about rivets? are the inspectors insisting on stainless steel rivets
through the firewall ?
Dale Kilbey 220R
----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: fireproof firewalls

Found it and it is indeed a neat idea ;)
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/fil ... CN0255.JPG
Ken

Legeorgen@aol.com wrote:
Ken,

To replace an asbestos washer or SS firewall grommet you can cut a 1/2"
piece
of ABS pipe and tape it to the firewall over your primer line, cable or
what
ever you want to fire proof seal. Fill this with high temperature RTV.
There
is a picture in the archives under Rebel/engines/neat and easy firewall
grommet.

Bruce

P.s.p.s. Don't forget to remove the tape

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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by Wayne G. O'Shea
Not sure where that debate is this week with MDRA either Dale!!

When I did mine my inspector wanted stainless pull or solid alum rivets.
Didn't argue, just used solid alum rivets. I still think the plain old
RV1410's are a better choice over the Stainless RR5404's... since the alum
RV1410's have a steel mandrel that stays in and plugs the hole, where as the
stainless ones throw the mandrels and leave everyone of the rivets open as a
hollow flame/CO2 leaker.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Kilbey" <dale.kilbey@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: fireproof firewalls

What about rivets? are the inspectors insisting on stainless steel rivets
through the firewall ?
Dale Kilbey 220R
----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2003 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: fireproof firewalls

Found it and it is indeed a neat idea ;)
https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/fil ... CN0255.JPG
Ken

Legeorgen@aol.com wrote:
Ken,

To replace an asbestos washer or SS firewall grommet you can cut a
1/2"
piece
of ABS pipe and tape it to the firewall over your primer line, cable
or
what
ever you want to fire proof seal. Fill this with high temperature RTV.
There
is a picture in the archives under Rebel/engines/neat and easy
firewall
grommet.

Bruce

P.s.p.s. Don't forget to remove the tape

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fireproof firewalls

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:04 am
by klehman
My firewall has a mixture of aluminum 1410 and stainless 5404 rivets and
the inspector (Canada) was fine with that on the pre-cover inspection.
Or maybe he didn't notice. However all my stainless 5404 rivets retained
the mandrel and are not hollow. The mandrel does pull through my 3/32
steel nutplate rivets and leave them hollow though. There is also the
higher quality and more expensive avinox series of stainless rivets if
anyone finds the mandrels pull out of their RR5404's or wants a
stainless rivet that grips the hole tighter.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Not sure where that debate is this week with MDRA either Dale!!

When I did mine my inspector wanted stainless pull or solid alum rivets.
Didn't argue, just used solid alum rivets. I still think the plain old
RV1410's are a better choice over the Stainless RR5404's... since the alum
RV1410's have a steel mandrel that stays in and plugs the hole, where as the
stainless ones throw the mandrels and leave everyone of the rivets open as a
hollow flame/CO2 leaker.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Kilbey" <dale.kilbey@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: fireproof firewalls


What about rivets? are the inspectors insisting on stainless steel rivets
through the firewall ?
Dale Kilbey 220R


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