REBEL - Elevator and Rudder Spar tube construction

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

This ones way too late for most of you, but any new guys starting out should
note that Murphy had a great idea with the steel AIL-26 bushing and bolt for
the elevator and rudder hinges. This would supposably allow the bolt to run
inside the bushing, instead of the bushing turning inside the aluminum hinge
bracket.

HOWEVER... since they had us all install FLOATING anchor nuts inside the
spar tube caps, unless you tighten the hinge bolt up quite snuggly there
ends up being too much slop in these control surfaces and we end up turning
the AIL-26 inside the Aluminum bracket because of this.

To avoid this issue and get full usage out of a "throw away" bushing and
bolt, for longevity of your airframe, I highly suggest replacing the
floating anchor nuts supplied with your kit with FIXED 1/4" two lug anchors.
This way you will be able to snug the bolt up until it can still rotate
inside the AIL-26 and the bolt won't wiggle around since it's in a fixed
anchor nut. With the floating anchors if you try this you have a few degrees
of rock in every direction so it's not feasible. Using the fixed anchor nuts
will allow the AIL-26 to be nice and tight in the aluminum bracket so the
bracket never wears out and will restrict wear to just the bolt and the
AIL-26 (that are both easily replaced).

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea



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[Steve Halvorsen]

Hay Wayne:

Just finished assembling our elevator and stab and was trying to assemble
the two together as per instructions in our manual and it does NOT say
anything about any bushings to be fitted into the hinge between the two.
The holes in both parts are 1/4" dia. for a AN4-10 bolt to go thru.
Should there be a bushing in there for the parts to pivot on? ? ? Our kit
didn't even have any AN4-10's and when I contacted Brian about not having
any in the kit he said that the 10's were to short and that to use -11's.
This kit was only delivered a month ago.

Should there be bushings in ALL the control pivot points so that the Alum
brackets don't wear out? ? ? ?

Just really started to assemble our Moose and am beginning to wonder if I
should use the manual just for "REFERENCE ONLY" and construct as I believe
it should be put together. Manual leaves a lot to be desired. I know I'm
kicking a dead horse on that one.

Steve H
Moose 213


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:47 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: REBEL - Elevator and Rudder Spar tube construction


This ones way too late for most of you, but any new guys starting out should
note that Murphy had a great idea with the steel AIL-26 bushing and bolt for
the elevator and rudder hinges. This would supposably allow the bolt to run
inside the bushing, instead of the bushing turning inside the aluminum hinge
bracket.

HOWEVER... since they had us all install FLOATING anchor nuts inside the
spar tube caps, unless you tighten the hinge bolt up quite snuggly there
ends up being too much slop in these control surfaces and we end up turning
the AIL-26 inside the Aluminum bracket because of this.

To avoid this issue and get full usage out of a "throw away" bushing and
bolt, for longevity of your airframe, I highly suggest replacing the
floating anchor nuts supplied with your kit with FIXED 1/4" two lug anchors.
This way you will be able to snug the bolt up until it can still rotate
inside the AIL-26 and the bolt won't wiggle around since it's in a fixed
anchor nut. With the floating anchors if you try this you have a few degrees
of rock in every direction so it's not feasible. Using the fixed anchor nuts
will allow the AIL-26 to be nice and tight in the aluminum bracket so the
bracket never wears out and will restrict wear to just the bolt and the
AIL-26 (that are both easily replaced).

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Steve, That's why the header has -Rebel- in it and not Elite or Super Rebel
Moose! What I wrote describes the Rebels tail feathers only!

However, on the Moose I have on the bench I did install brass hat bushings
to the fin brackets, with the intent of the bolt rotating in them and
staying stationary in the double bracket on the rudder. Same plan is to be
done to the elevator/stab, if I ever get back on it and release that jammed
elevator assembly from the tail post! .

Cheers,
Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Halvorsen" <shalvorsen@dataflo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: REBEL - Elevator and Rudder Spar tube construction

Hay Wayne:

Just finished assembling our elevator and stab and was trying to assemble
the two together as per instructions in our manual and it does NOT say
anything about any bushings to be fitted into the hinge between the two.
The holes in both parts are 1/4" dia. for a AN4-10 bolt to go thru.
Should there be a bushing in there for the parts to pivot on? ? ? Our kit
didn't even have any AN4-10's and when I contacted Brian about not having
any in the kit he said that the 10's were to short and that to use -11's.
This kit was only delivered a month ago.

Should there be bushings in ALL the control pivot points so that the Alum
brackets don't wear out? ? ? ?

Just really started to assemble our Moose and am beginning to wonder if I
should use the manual just for "REFERENCE ONLY" and construct as I believe
it should be put together. Manual leaves a lot to be desired. I know I'm
kicking a dead horse on that one.

Steve H
Moose 213


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:47 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: REBEL - Elevator and Rudder Spar tube construction


This ones way too late for most of you, but any new guys starting out

should

note that Murphy had a great idea with the steel AIL-26 bushing and bolt

for

the elevator and rudder hinges. This would supposably allow the bolt to

run

inside the bushing, instead of the bushing turning inside the aluminum

hinge

bracket.

HOWEVER... since they had us all install FLOATING anchor nuts inside the
spar tube caps, unless you tighten the hinge bolt up quite snuggly there
ends up being too much slop in these control surfaces and we end up

turning

the AIL-26 inside the Aluminum bracket because of this.

To avoid this issue and get full usage out of a "throw away" bushing and
bolt, for longevity of your airframe, I highly suggest replacing the
floating anchor nuts supplied with your kit with FIXED 1/4" two lug

anchors.

This way you will be able to snug the bolt up until it can still rotate
inside the AIL-26 and the bolt won't wiggle around since it's in a fixed
anchor nut. With the floating anchors if you try this you have a few

degrees

of rock in every direction so it's not feasible. Using the fixed anchor

nuts

will allow the AIL-26 to be nice and tight in the aluminum bracket so the
bracket never wears out and will restrict wear to just the bolt and the
AIL-26 (that are both easily replaced).

Cheers,
Wayne O'Shea

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